laugharne tourist information

8 Interesting Things to Do in Laugharne Wales (plus Dylan Thomas’ Boathouse)

By: Author Angela Price

Posted on Last updated: February 23, 2024

Laugharne sits in Carmarthenshire and is a great place to visit if you are wondering what to do in West Wales.

With a magnificent castle, a charming town, and countryside and estuary walks, what’s not to like about Laugharne?

Add the Welsh poet Dylan Thomas’ boathouse and some quaint tea rooms to the mix, and you get an idea of what Laugharne offers the visitor.

From the A477, heritage signs for “Dylan Thomas’ Boathouse” will lead you along beautiful country roads and into Laugharne Town. You will find plenty of free parking – yes, free – right by the castle. This is where you can start exploring Laugharne’s heritage and cultural attractions.

We spent a day in Laugharne (pronounced Larne) during our week’s holiday in Pembrokeshire and loved it. I have shared some of the best things to do in Laugharne, which will help you plan your own day trip to this historic town.

This article may contain affiliate links – For more information, please read my  disclaimer and privacy policy.

If you need to arrange travel insurance, car hire or accommodation? Please check out my  resources page  to help you plan your trip.

Table of Contents

Best Attractions to See in Laugharne

Laugharne castle.

The majestic castle in Laugharne stands on the banks of the Taf Estuary on Carmarthen Bay. It overlooks some of the most beautiful Welsh scenery.

Rolling hills, water trailing out along the estuary and glistening sandbanks all make for the most picturesque view.

Originally built in the 12th century as a Norman stronghold, the castle’s position along the River Taf made it a perfect defence point.

When it fell into disrepair, it was bought by a Tudor merchant and rebuilt as a mansion complete with Elizabethan gardens.

It also had connections to Dylan Thomas, who wrote: “Portrait of an Artist” in the castle’s summerhouse. The view of the Taf Estuary was an inspiration for his creative talents.

A great place to take photographs of the castle is from the car park. If you want to go inside the castle, you can view the towers and the summerhouse from closer proximity.

The entry fee is £4 (adult), and a small gift shop sells souvenirs and ice cream.

We are not wholly bad or good, who live our lives under Milk Wood. Dylan Thomas

Heritage Circular Walk – 5.5miles (moderate)

After crossing the bridge in the car park, the Heritage Walk starts at Laugharne Castle. The walk is part of the Wales Coast Path .

It passes Dylan Thomas’ Boathouse and writing shed along the “Dylan’s Walk” pathway. It continues along the path through woods and fields above the Taf Estuary.

A steep climb starting from the farmhouse (private) brings you out by a caravan park. Take a moment to enjoy the beautiful views before continuing along a narrow lane on the left-hand side.

This takes you to St Martin’s Church – the final resting place of Dylan Thomas and his wife, Caitlin. Follow the main road back to the castle, and you have completed the Laugharne heritage circular walk.

We enjoyed this walk but found the hill by the farmhouse quite challenging. It is a gravel path, and a hedgerow on either side makes it quite humid on a warm day. Take plenty of water with you on the walk.

Dylan Thomas’s Boathouse

One of the main reasons that visitors flock to Laugharne is to view Dylan Thomas’ boathouse , his home for the last four years of his life.

The author of the famous play “ Under Milk Wood ” wrote some of his best work in this idyllic location with views as far as the Gower Peninsula.

Inside the boathouse, you can see the family’s rooms, photographs, and information on his life and works. An audiovisual presentation portrays Dylan reading some of his work.

The boathouse has tea rooms for refreshments, including popular welsh cakes.

You can also peer inside Dylan Thomas’ writing shed on the pathway above the boathouse. We discovered it was once his garage before he transformed it!

a black-magical bedlam by the sea… timeless, beautiful, barmy – there is nowhere like it anywhere at all Dylan Thomas

Dylan’s Birthday Walk

Another beautiful walk you can do, in addition to the heritage circular route, is Dylan Thomas’ Birthday Walk.

In 1944, Dylan wrote ‘Poem in October’ about his birthday walk to the top of Sir John’s Hill. The uphill walk starts at the far end of the castle car park and is 2 miles long.

Enjoy the outstanding views of the Taf estuary, Dylan’s boathouse, the Gower Peninsula, Caldey Island and Tenby.

St Martin’s Church

If you are a Dylan Thomas devotee, this is the final resting place of Dylan and his wife, Caitlin. A simple white wooden cross marks Dylan’s grave.

Take a moment to wander around the graveyard while you are there. The crumbling tombs and tilted headstones are very atmospheric.

The church is on the main street into Laugharne and is entered via a 14th-century Lychgate. The church can also be accessed at the end of the circular heritage walk.

Though lovers be lost, love shall not; And death shall have no dominion. Dylan Thomas

Laugharne High Street

Laugharne is a small town with plenty of character. A few independent shops, a deli, tea rooms and several pubs offer visitors a good choice of places to eat and shop.

Walk from St Martin’s Church back to the car park and admire the traditional houses and the town hall clock tower. Keep an eye open for the bust of Dylan Thomas in a small garden near the car park.

Public conveniences (20p charge) are near the castle entrance.

Useful Information About Laugharne

Places to stay in laugharne.

Browns – The iconic boutique hotel and restaurant dating back to 1752 was Dylan Thomas’ favourite drinking spot. He used to give out the pub’s telephone number as his own he was there so often.

The Owl and The Pussycat – If you want sandwiches, cakes, and a good cuppa, I recommend you try the food here.

The Boat House Bed and Breakfast – some rooms with castle views.

Alternative Accommodation in Laugharne

Poetry is not the most important thing in life… I’d much rather lie in a hot bath reading Agatha Christie and sucking sweets. Dylan Thomas

Relax on Pendine Sands

After a day of exploring Laugharne Town, head to Pendine Sands, a 7-mile stretch of the Pembrokeshire coastline where land-speed records have been made.

The most famous record was set in 1924 by Sir Malcolm Campbell in his car, Blue Bird. 

Watch locals participate in popular beach sports like power kiting, land yachting and kite buggy racing or relax with a locally made ice cream.

Events in Laugharne

The annual Laugharne Weekend features music, poetry and book readings.

  Please Pin for Future Travel to Wales

Are you looking for further travel inspiration for Wales? Please check out the following posts:

Pen Y Fan, Wales: The Truth about Walking to the Summit as a Novice

Ultimate Brecon Beacons 3-Night Travel Itinerary Guide

10 Great Reasons to Visit St Davids: The Smallest City in the UK

How to See Puffins in Wales on Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire

How to Walk from Bosherston Lily Ponds in Pembrokeshire to the Beach

Angela Price is an accomplished travel writer bringing extensive expertise and passion to the world of travel. With over 35 years of globetrotting adventures under her belt and with a keen eye for unique experiences, she has established herself as an authoritative voice in travel, offering invaluable insights for fellow adventurers seeking to uncover the delights of worldwide destinations. Her motto is “live life wandering not wondering”

 I would like to receive occasional updates and new travel posts.

Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

Monday 14th of June 2021

Lovely post Angie. What a sweet place. I've long been a fan of Dylan Thomas, and was actually in a stage production of Under Milk Wood many years ago. Why is there a strike-through over Under Milk Wood?

Linda (LD Holland)

Friday 11th of June 2021

All I am reading about Wales is moving it higher on my travel wish list! I can see why you would say that Laugharne ticks all the boxes. I would not know where to start if I only had one day to visit.  The circular walk sounds lovely but at my pace it might take us awhile to capture all the views. And then we would not want to miss Dylan’s Birthday Walk for those views. 

Interesting explorations and walks at Laugharne. I can see myself doing this, at a leisurely pace!

Oh how lovely! This indeed is exactly how I would like to spend a day - visiting a charming castle in the English countryside and then a small town for a delicious lunch. He said it best... a black-magical bedlam by the sea… timeless, beautiful, barmy – there is nowhere like it anywhere at all.

WhereAngieWanders

Monday 17th of October 2022

It is in Wales, not England, but you are right about it being a beautiful place to visit.

@Renee, It’s in Wales. The Welsh Countryside,not England.

• 2 Get around

<a href=\"https://tools.wmflabs.org/wikivoyage/w/poi2gpx.php?print=gpx&amp;lang=en&amp;name=Laugharne\" title=\"Download GPX file for this article\" data-parsoid=\"{}\"><img alt=\"Download GPX file for this article\" resource=\"./File:GPX_Document_rev3-20x20.png\" src=\"//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f7/GPX_Document_rev3-20x20.png\" decoding=\"async\" data-file-width=\"20\" data-file-height=\"20\" data-file-type=\"bitmap\" height=\"20\" width=\"20\" class=\"mw-file-element\" data-parsoid='{\"a\":{\"resource\":\"./File:GPX_Document_rev3-20x20.png\",\"height\":\"20\",\"width\":\"20\"},\"sa\":{\"resource\":\"File:GPX Document rev3-20x20.png\"}}'/></a></span>"}'/>

Laugharne (Welsh: Talacharn) is a town in Carmarthenshire, Wales, lying on the estuary of the River Tâf. It is known for having been the home of Dylan Thomas from 1949 until his death in 1953, and is thought to have been an inspiration for the fictional town of Llareggub in Under Milk Wood.

• On the A4066 4 miles south of St. Clears
• 222 bus [ dead link ] from St Clears or Pendine
• The closest rail station is Carmarthen

• Wales Coast Path .  
• 51.769257 -4.464241 1 The Owl & The Pussycat , 3 The Grist , ☏ +44 1994 427742 . Coffee shop and tea rooms ( updated Nov 2016 )
• 51.769566 -4.464158 2 Castle View , Grist Square , ☏ +44 1994 427445 . Fish & Chips ( updated Nov 2016 )
• The Old Cow Barn ( Yr Hen Feudai ), Llansadurnen Farmhouse , ☏ +44 1994 427241 , [email protected] . Two old cottages.  
• Hurst House on the Marsh , East Marsh , ☏ +44 1994 427417 . a unique Grade II listed 18 bedroom boutique hotel and spa  
• Saundersfoot

• Has default banner
• Articles with dead external links
• Articles with formerly dead external links
• Has map markers
• Do listing with no coordinates
• Sleep listing with no coordinates
• Has Geo parameter
• Carmarthenshire
• All destination articles
• Usable cities
• Usable articles
• City articles
• Pages using the Kartographer extension

Navigation menu

Laugharne: ‘The strangest town in Wales’!

It’s that time of year again, the famous (or should that be infamous?) Laugharne weekend is upon us and the small seaside town in West Wales will be alive with festival goers hoping that everything will be as quirky and as chaotic as normal – they would be disappointed if things were to run smoothly!  You see, this is Laugharne, the ‘strangest town in Wales’ with the philosophy of ‘it will all be the same in a hundred years time.’  A place where my grandfather ‘got off the bus, and forgot to get on again.’

I cannot claim to know what the town was like a hundred years ago but my grandfather did write a broadcast ‘ Laugharne’ (You can listen here) in 1953 and, I would say, things are pretty much the same today.

Despite, or because of,  its quirks, Laugharne was a place where my grandfather managed to concentrate on his writing, as it was here that he wrote iconic poems such as, Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night and Over Sir John’s Hill.  It probably also inspired his play-for-voices Under Milk Wood .  Even if the setting is more New Quay as many have suggested, the characters and the community spirit is definitely very reminiscent of Laugharne.

My grandfather was buried at St Martin’s church in Laugharne after his premature death in 1953, and then my grandmother, Caitlin,  joined him in 1994.  My mum spent a very happy childhood living in the Boathouse in Laugharne and included memories of this time in her book, My Father’s Places .  Following her death in 2009, we scattered her ashes at the Boathouse. As a family, we have put a bench and plaque there in memory of her. On the bench it says – The Funny thing is I find myself going back again and again. We thought this was appropriate as my grandfather, grandmother and mum have chosen Laugharne as their final resting place, and I also often return there with my young son, Charlie. We hope that when people sit on the bench and look across at the stunning view across the estuary, they will feel the same way.

Bench in the Boathouse garden with a quotation from Dylan’s daughter Aeronwy

Linking with last week’s blog where I wanted to showcase Mum’s writing, below are some memories and poetry written by Aeronwy Thomas about her time living in Laugharne.

Reading with dad

If I could catch my dad after his bath, he would read to me. Comfortably ensconced in a capacious armchair, on his lap, he would read me stories and rhyme of his choice. From my vantage point I could see the estuary through the slats of the balcony but shut out distractions to listen to Dad. Was it going to be Grimms’ Fairy Tales or the Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe with all the children. Heaven, it was going to be Little Red Riding Hood. “Who would you like to be?” he asked. “You’re so good as the wolf,” I replied, “so you can play him and the woodchopper.” Of course, I was left with the title role, if Dad agreed. Soon we were in the wood with the nasty wolf hiding behind trees and the poor girl in her red cape visible to all. Dad made me read all the dialogue which I pretended was a little difficult for my reading skills. “I only know the easy words,” I lied. I made myself easy in the armchair, sitting on his lap as if I owned him.

Another session we read Hansel and Gretel and I was forced to run around looking for matches. “This is the place the children slept when they first ran away from their nasty family,” he said, pouring a mound of matches on the floor. I didn’t think they looked much like a leafy mound to serve as a bed but did not like to say so. He then made an outline with matches of the witches’ cottage made from sweets to tempt Hansel and Gretel. What about the cauldron or oven to cook them, I demanded. He placed his beer glass in the house, which didn’t convince me. ‘What about something smaller?” I asked. Finally, to my satisfaction, he poured out the dolly mixture he kept in his pocket into the sweet house and I fashioned an oven from a piece of plasticine. There followed a debate about who should play the witch and the less interesting characters of the children. In the end, Dad adopted a falsetto voice adding words that I knew were not on the page and made quite a convincing evil old lady. I might ask him to wear a hat from our dress-up box another time, I thought.

Dad could also make lots of other characters from fairytale and nursery rhyme come alive. There was the gruff Giant in Jack and the Beanstalk and the jumpy white rabbit from Alice in Wonderland, read in staccato, neurotic voice. Aladdin had a similar voice to the witch one without the frightening tones. It was the best time of the week when Dad opened a book with me.

Always one to seize the moment, I would lurk outside the bathroom door where you could hear him try out different characters from Under Milk Wood such as Mrs Dai Bread One and Mrs Dai Bread Two. As the bath was newly installed thanks to a patron, both my parents spent a long time there topping up the hot water. We, the children, had to make do with the tin bath in front of the Aga. As he emerged, hot and steamy, I would pounce with my reading request, nipping into the bathroom to see whether his detective novel had fallen into the bath water or mainly fish out any sweets he might have left. I remember once Mother, who was impatient to get out for their every night pub session, walking in while we were reading from Struwwelpeter , waving a pair of scissors to cut Dad’s toenails. We were delighted with the timing and asked Mother to try and cut of his toes as well.

Later Than Laugharne

Herons, mussel pools, gulls and piper,

encircle our ‘house on stilts high among

beaks and palavers of birds’. Cormorants

scud and gulls glide in my memory.

The stones, washed by the tide, which I

would turn looking for blue and white,

or floral pieces of china for our crockery

houses…And the fish my mother would

catch and throw back into the swirling

waters of the estuary all around us …

I remember them well.

…And high tode covering our back garden

through a hole in the stone wall which

embraced our home. The tide carrying our

makeshift boats on its back, pieces of lumber,

an old zinc bath, and I can still recall

the envy I felt when they bought my brother

a boat called The Cuckoo…

The names come tumbling back –

…And I remember the hole in the wall was

called grandly by all, The Harbour.

…And who could forget sliding down the

mud banks at low tide into the rivulets

left by receding water, or running along

the cliffwalk and stirring up a din outside

the shed that was my father’s writing den.

The memories race back –

… And the thrill of peeping through

the keyhole (I was always the most naughty)

to see my father writing his poems about

gulls, hills and cormorants on estuaries

which he saw through his wide-vista window,

and he sat, bent, writing in crabbled letters,

pressing against the hard surface of the

kitchen table that was his desk …

We were poor those days –

Though I can’t remember being poor

in Laugharne, those balmy,

never-to-be-forgotten days,

green and golden …

Herons, gulls and pipers still encircle

our house on stilts,

and the cormorants still scud and glide

in my memory ……..

The Boathouse how it may have looked in the late 1940s. © Tin Shed

The Road Home

The way home is long

the cliffwalk lengthens

from home to seatown

and back again.

In dreams, I wander slowly

the heron still there

regal on one leg

surveying the estuary

and I stop to see

streamlets of water

over the sand-blown banks.

Light-footed in recollection,

I tackle the slope

there’s something

worth running for

and come across the shed

painted royal blue

it hasn’t changed

in wayward memory.

And here I am today

labouring up the hill

looking for the familiar outline

through the trees

the grass green door

not the way it was

and through the porthole

I can see the branches

tapping the windows

my father there

working at the table

writing and muttering

watching the tides

his life on the turn

putting into poems

terns, gulls, killyduckers

flying over the bay

I look again with his eyes

the pages turn

before the last climb

along the pathway

down the steps

to the Boat House

which has not moved

in my absence.

It is a long road.

© Andrew Dally

Aeronwy’s plaque in the Boathouse garden.  Her husband Trefor requested that we use her married name Ellis on the inscription.

Hannah Ellis – 3rd April 2017.

Share This Story, Choose Your Platform!

My Granparents Charlotte and Gordon Turpin are buried here too. I believe my Grandfather painted Dylan’s original cross. They lived in Frogmore Street, Laugharne

Hi Judith is Gordon Turpin related to you who live in king street Laugharne

I feel emotional reading this Love to you all, Fiona xxxxx

Leave A Comment Cancel reply

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Privacy Overview

Travel Guide

• Things to Do
• Things to See

Things to Do in Laugharne

Laugharne (pronounced Larne ), 24km (15 miles) east of Tenby, is a hamlet overlooking broad waters. This ancient township on the estuary fed by the River Taf (not be confused with the River Taff in Cardiff) and the River Cywyn, was for centuries a bone of contention between Welsh, English, Cromwellians, and royal supporters. However, it did not come into the limelight of public attention until after the death of its adopted son, Swansea-born Dylan Thomas, and his acclaim as one of the great poets of the 20th century.

Head west from Swansea along the A4070, which becomes the A484 signposted north to Carmarthen. Once in Carmarthen, continue west along the A40 to St. Clears, where you cut southeast along the A4066 to Laugharne.

Note : This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

• All Regions
• Australia & South Pacific
• Caribbean & Atlantic
• Central & South America
• Middle East & Africa
• North America
• Washington, D.C.
• San Francisco
• New York City
• Los Angeles
• Arts & Culture
• Beach & Water Sports
• Local Experiences
• Food & Drink
• Outdoor & Adventure
• National Parks
• Winter Sports
• Travelers with Disabilities
• Family & Kids
• All Slideshows
• Hotel Deals
• Car Rentals
• Flight Alerts
• Credit Cards & Loyalty Points
• Cruise News
• Entry Requirements & Customs
• Car, Bus, Rail News
• Money & Fees
• Health, Insurance, Security
• Packing & Luggage
• -Arthur Frommer Online
• -Passportable
• Road Trip Guides
• Alaska Made Easy
• Great Vacation Ideas in the U.S.A.
• Best of the Caribbean
• Best of Mexico
• Cruise Inspiration
• Best Places to Go 2024

Laugharne Information Online

Laugharne, carmarthenshire, uk.

• UK Information

Get to know Laugharne

Entertainment and leisure.

You can use our

• Laugharne cinemas ,
• UK theatres and
• What's On guide to plan your day or evening out.

Accommodation

If you are looking for accommodation we have:

• Laugharne bed and breakfasts and
• Laugharne hotels plus
• Laugharne cottages and self catering holiday accommodation as well as directories for
• Holiday Camps and
• Caravan Parks .

Visiting and Local Services

If you are looking for tourist information or information on how to get around we have details of

• Tourist Information ,
• Travel & Transport and
• a list of local Attractions and Places of Interest with
• a list of local Guide books and Maps to help you find where you are going.

Our Directory contains lists of sites that have been submitted by the owners.

Travel & Transport

For anyone that wants to get around, we have put together a list Travel & Transport pages including a map and route planner .