dempster highway travel guide

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Dempster Highway road trip itinerary

No stoplights. No traffic jams. No road rage.

If your ideal road trip involves getting way off the beaten track then this is the drive for you. Canada’s only all-season public road to cross the Arctic Circle, the Dempster Highway, is 740 km (458 mi.) of unpaved road that traverses some of the most beautiful scenery on the planet. It starts near Dawson City and heads due north to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. Dramatic tundra landscapes, mountain ranges and abundant wildlife are all part of the Dempster experience. Early summer brings a variety of young animals, mid-summer heralds long days under the midnight sun, while late summer visitors are treated to vivid crimson and gold tundra vegetation.

Communities

Exploring the Klondike

The Klondike Gold Rush has become synonymous with adventure and the spirit of the frontier. A slice of history itself, Dawson City is the real deal. Its inhabitants are an eclectic mix of modern day characters living side by side with a rollicking past. Gold rush lore permeates every corner of this town. 

The perfect way to explore downtown Dawson is on foot. At the Visitor Information Centre you can organize a guided walking tour with Parks Canada. Their interpretive guides will bring to life the gold rush stories and characters, from the elegance of the Commissioner’s Residence to the height of society at the Palace Grand Theatre. Dawson was, after all, once known as the “Paris of the North”. Listen to the words of the Yukon’s most famous poet, Robert Service, or wander down the lane to the cabin of our other famous gold rush writer—Jack London.

You can also get to know the cultural history of the area’s original inhabitants, the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in, at the Dänojà Zho Cultural Centre . 

Touring the Goldfields

Now that you’ve explored the town, drive out to where it all began. You can visit the original gold strike site at the Discovery Claim National Historic Site and then see how large scale mechanized mining took place at Dredge No.4. Then it’s time to try your own hand at gold panning at Free Claim #6—anything you find is yours to keep.

One of the best viewpoints of the region is atop the Midnight Dome. On your way back into town from the goldfields you’ll pass the turn-off—it’s well worth the detour. At the top you’ll be rewarded with 360° views and, if you time it right, an amazing Yukon sunset.

Your Dempster adventure requires some planning. As you enjoy your day in Dawson City, keep in mind you’ll need a well-running vehicle, a spare tire, full tank of gas plus an extra jerry can, food and fresh water, as well as a plan for camping or other accommodations while on your trek.

This evening, before heading off into the wilderness, kick up your heels at Diamond Tooth Gerties , where the entertainment comes gold rush style. Can-can girls whoop it up on stage as the roulette wheels spin in Canada’s oldest gambling hall.  

And if you’re feeling brave, head for a cocktail at the Downtown Hotel . No frothy pink concoctions here. Instead, you’ll be served your drink with a human toe bobbing in the glass. Suck it back, and you’ll become a member of the illustrious Sourtoe Cocktail club—just remember not to swallow the toe.

Driving the Dempster Highway

The Dempster Highway begins at Dempster Corner about 40 km (25 mi) from Dawson City. Travel north to Tombstone Territorial Park . This unique wilderness of wind-carved mountain peaks and sub-arctic landscape offers outstanding wildlife viewing, hiking and scenic vistas. 

At the Tombstone Interpretive Centre you can get the latest information on wildlife sightings and trail conditions. They also offer interpretive programs, guided walks, and art, culture and natural history special events throughout summer. Sip some mountain tea, relax and chat with other adventurers. 

At the North Fork Pass viewpoint, the craggy, granite peak of Tombstone Mountain—so named for its striking resemblance to a grave marker—is visible from the roadside. 

The highest point on the Dempster, North Fork Pass Summit, is a great spot for a roadside ramble. Keep an eye out for pika, marmots, ptarmigan and eagles. From here you’ll enter the Blackstone Uplands, an area rich with birdlife. At Two Moose Lake a viewing platform provides the perfect location to soak in the silence and watch for an elusive moose or two (twilight is best). 

If you’re camping there’s either the Tombstone Territorial Park campground or Engineer Creek Campground.  

Driving Time: 2 hours to Tombstone Campground (112km/69mi.); 4 hours to Engineer Creek (234km/147mi.)

Crossing the Arctic Circle

The adventure continues today through the Northern Ogilvie Mountains. Part of ancient Beringia, this area escaped glaciation during the last Ice Age. The road follows the Ogilvie River Valley before climbing to the Eagle Plains plateau, where you can enjoy a panoramic vista at the Ogilvie Ridge/Gwazhal Kak viewpoint.

The halfway point of the Dempster is Eagle Plains. If you’re not camping, the Eagle Plains Hotel is the only accommodation available between Dawson and Inuvik and should be booked in advance. There’s also a restaurant, RV services and gas station. Fuel up both yourself and your vehicle. 

A short drive later you’ll find yourself at latitude 66° 33’, otherwise known as the Arctic Circle. It’s time to break out the champagne and pose for the proof-you-did-it photo. On summer solstice (21 June), you can watch the sun circle the sky and never set. Absorb the moment while you savor the sweeping views of the Richardson Mountains. 

From here, you can either continue on to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories or return to Dawson City. 

Driving Time:  4 - 5 hours Engineer Creek to Arctic Circle (212km/130mi.) 

Driving to Inuvik

From the Arctic Circle, the Dempster crosses into the Northwest Territories and through the Richardson Mountains before descending to the Peel River. A free vehicle ferry will carry you across the river during the summer months. Continue north to the Dene settlement of Fort McPherson. 

Make sure to visit the Lost Patrol Gravesite, where the men from this ill-fated Northwest Mounted Police patrol of the early 1900s were laid to rest. The search for the men was led by Corporal W.J.D. Dempster, for whom the road is named. 

After another ferry crossing—this time over the Mackenzie River—the road continues through the village of Tsiigehtchic and eventually ends in the arctic town of Inuvik. Meaning “Place of Man” in the Inuvialuit language, you’ll find a full range of services here including accommodation. Drop into the Western Arctic Visitor Information Centre to find out more about the Mackenzie Delta region. Other attractions to explore include the unique Igloo Church, the Inuvialuit Cultural Centre and the Aurora Research Institute.  

There are several campgrounds between the Arctic Circle and Inuvik.     

Driving Time: 6 hours Arctic Circle to Inuvik (329km/204mi.) 

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Dempster Highway: The Wildest Solo Road Trip To The Arctic

I finally was doing it, my Solo Drive to the Arctic on the Dempster Highway to Inuvik, Northwest Territories.

Table of Contents

The road trip of a lifetime

Have you ever wondered where the “north” begins and what the Arctic is like? I often thought about it and I found the answers driving the Dempster Highway.

The vastness of the land around the Dempster blows your mind. You suddenly realize that the Dempster Highway is the only raggedy little road that cuts through the wilderness, and opens up an incredible part of the world for us to experience.

The Dempster Highway is one of the most spectacular road trips on earth and yet, many people have never heard of it. It’s the only road in Canada that takes you across the Arctic Circle at km 405.5. It takes you into the land of the midnight sun, where you have 24 hours of daylight.

Dempster Highway’s History

The Dempster Highway to Inuvik was completed in 1975 as a transportation route. It connects the Southern Yukon with Inuvik, the Mackenzie Delta and communities in the Northwest Territories . An overland supply route was needed to serve large-scale oil exploration taking place in the Beaufort Sea.

The surface of the Dempster Highway is all gravel; 2.4 m thick in some places to protect the permafrost, on which the road sits on. The road is like a raised bridge with no sides. If the permafrost would melt, the road would sink.

For most of its length, the Dempster Highway crosses land and territories with no sign of human presence; no side roads, no houses and no power lines.

The highway is named after Corporal William Dempster of the RCMP. He searched for the men of the Lost Patrol and found them frozen to death near Fort McPherson in 1911. Read about the tragedy HERE .

What You Need To Know

What you need for this trip is an adventurous spirit, a reliable vehicle, excellent tires, a couple of spares and a jerry can with extra gasoline.

Be prepared for the journey ahead and check out my Wilderness Road Trip Planner . You will be mostly on your own driving through the endless wilderness. Most of the time it’s only an occasional rabbit or arctic ground squirrel you share the road with.

My road trip to the Arctic started in Okanagan, British Columbia , ten days before reaching the Dempster. My Toyota RAV4 was equipped with the best all-season tires I could find and I was prepared for the journey ahead. I realized early during my trip that things would be rough. The front windshield of my vehicle was rock chipped before I reached the Yukon border. Lesson learned; coming to a full stop whenever a semi-truck approaches, will limit the number of rocks hitting the windshield.

Driving The Dempster Highway

I took a break from my journey in the Wild West town of Dawson City, with my small tent squeezed between large RVs at Dawson’s main campground. Being aware of the remoteness and solitude of the road ahead, I didn’t mind the hustle and bustle of Dawson and tried to take in some of its vibes and Klondike history.

Km 0 of the Dempster Highway starts 40 km south of Dawson City , Yukon on the Klondike Highway and ends in Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. The road winds through some of the most amazing mountain and tundra terrain in Canada. At km 460.0 you cross the Yukon border to the Northwest Territories and that is where the kilometre count starts at zero again.

The Dempster Highway is not a good fit for inexperienced city drivers. Make sure you know what you get yourself into. Once you’re on the road drive carefully and obey posted signs.

You’ll come across airstrips on the Dempster which were officially built as resupply points during highway construction. The airstrips may still be used today.

Stop only where other drivers can pass safely. Pull over as far to the right as possible. Do not stop at the top of a hill, on a bridge, or on a curve.

Drive with headlights on and keep your seat belt fastened. Avoid sliding on the loose road surface by eliminating sudden braking or steering.

Weather Conditions

The region is usually dry. Still, the possibility of the road being washed out in the mountains remains. Two days after I arrived back in Dawson City , the road between Tombstone Territorial Park and Eagle Plains was totally washed out and collapsed . Travellers got stuck in between. It is very important to check the weather forecast to time the trip right.

Most people drive the highway in July and August during the short Arctic summer. September is the month to experience the spectacular autumn colours. Be aware that the long winter (October to April) requires additional precautions for travelling.

Weather conditions along the Dempster and on the Beaufort Coast can change quickly at any time of the year. You might come across cold winds and snow in the mountains in the middle of summer. Bring along layered clothes, a warm jacket, good boots, a hat, and gloves.

How long does it take?

The 736 km journey from the North Klondike Highway turnoff south of Dawson City to Inuvik takes at least two days. Count on driving 12 to 16 hours in each direction. The time it takes depends on road conditions and how often you stop along the way. If you want to do some serious hiking at Tombstone Territorial Park , you will need at least an extra day.

I recommend spending a couple of nights in Inuvik . Consider continuing your trip to Tuktoyaktuk or catching a flight to another Northern Community.

Make sure your vehicle is dependable and well-maintained. Travel the Dempster in a 4-wheel drive, even if some travel articles tell you differently. If you have to rent a vehicle , tell the rental company that you’re planning to drive the Dempster.

Car rental companies are located in Whitehorse and Inuvik .

If you break down you may have to wait for a long time to get help. Carry extra fluids, spare belts, some basic tools, a flare gun, tow rope, axe, knife, and matches. Ensure that all of your tires are in good condition, with lots of treads.

Slowing down and pulling over when meeting vehicles, especially large trucks, will minimize rock damage to your windshield. It is a good idea to protect your headlights with plastic or wire mesh covers.

There are only three gasoline stops along the Dempster. Make sure you start off with a full tank and carry some spare fuel, just in case.

There are gas stations at the southern end of the highway at Klondike River Lodge, Eagle Plains, Fort McPherson, and Inuvik.

Ask locals where the best place is to get gasoline. Usually, there is one place in town where you get it cheaper.

The Dempster Highway is unpaved except for the last 10 km before Inuvik. The road is mostly gravel. Some sections of the highway are made of shale which is hard on tires. When it rains, the road can be very slippery, and slowing down is crucial.

Flat tires are common so make sure to carry two spare tires on this trip and know how to change them.

Flats can be repaired at Eagle Plains and Fort McPherson (and Inuvik and Dawson), but expect high prices!

The speed limit on the Dempster is 90 km/h. Whether you are experienced with driving on gravel roads or not, you will be well advised to take it slower. Choose the speed according to road conditions. In some sections, you will need to go very slowly. When I drove the Dempster I hit a bottom speed of 25 km/ in some really rough sections and through stretches of mud. Maybe I went slower than most, but I was happy to complete the drive with no flat tires or other major car problems .

I got three chips in my windshield before I reached the Dempster. All were caused by one single semi-truck and I learned my lesson. After this incident, I slowed right down or came to a stop whenever there was a truck coming my way. Truckers seem to appreciate that.

River Crossings

The ferries over the Peel and Mackenzie/Arctic Red Rivers are free of charge. They operate daily from 9 am to 12:30 am. During the winter months, there are ice bridges and it is not possible to cross the rivers during freeze-up and break-up.

The Mackenzie ferry runs a triangle shape between two points where the Dempster Highway meets the river and the community of Tsiigehtchic , which is located where the two waterways meet.

There is a restaurant at Eagle Plains and a grocery store at Fort McPherson (where you get cheaper gasoline). Tsiigehtchic also has a store if you decide to travel an extra leg of the triangular ferry route to get there.

I suggest you stock up on food before you leave Dawson or Inuvik. There are many hours of driving between these places. Snacking on the way keeps you alert.

Tourist Information Centres

Before you set off I suggest you make a side trip into the historic Yukon gold mining town of Dawson City .

While in Dawson make sure to visit the friendly staff at the Northwest Territories Dempster Delta Western Arctic Visitor Centre. It is located across from the main visitor centre on Front Street. Get the latest Dempster road reports, ferry information, and current events. They also give you a Passport which you can have stamped at certain locations along the Dempster Highway. If you collect all the stamps you take part in a draw to win a gold nugget.

Visitor Information is also available at the Eagle Plains Hotel.

In Inuvik visit the Western Arctic Regional Visitor Centre for information. It is an excellent facility with interpretive displays of local wildlife and history as well as a good selection of brochures and leaflets.

The Dempster Highway by Bike

Some people cycle the Dempster Highway, though moving along is rough at certain sections of the road. Stop in Dawson’s Circle Cycle and talk to the staff there about cycling the Dempster. You also find blogs with information online.

Note that you need a licence to fish in the Yukon and a separate licence to fish in the Northwest Territories. More information is available at yukon.ca/en/yukon-fishing-licence .

The Dempster Highway is a self-guided wildlife tour. The area is home to moose, caribou, mountain sheep, grizzly bears marmots, collared pica, and other animals. The Dempster is a birders paradise. Look out for golden eagles, hawks, falcons, owls, and many other birds. When you come across wildlife, pull off the road and observe from a respectful distance. Learn about wildlife and how to prevent negative encounters.

Drinking Water

Water taken from any non-commercial source along the highway should be boiled or treated before drinking. If you are like me and you don’t like the taste of treated water, stop at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre to fill up your jug with mountain water (at your own risk).

Accommodation and Campground

• Yukon km 72: Tombstone Mountain Campground – The 36-site campground is a good spot to relax for a day or two and to take advantage of the spectacular hiking trails nearby.
• Yukon km 193.8: Engineer Creek Campground – 15 campsites, kitchen shelter, water, and toilets
• km 369: Eagle Plains – Hotel accommodation year-round as well as camping and free showers.
• km 445.8: Rock River Campground – 17 campsites offer sheltered protection within a steep gorge of the Richardson Mountains.
• NWT km 235: Gwich’in Territorial Park – 15 sites and four tent sites, picnic tables barbecue pits, kitchen shelter, and toilets. Located on Campbell Lake.
• NWT km 266: Jak Territorial Park – Six sites with power and 32 non-powered sites, picnic tables, barbecue pits, firewood, water, kitchen shelter, toilets and showers, a 10 m high lookout tower, and walking trails View of the Mackenzie Delta and the Richardson Mountains.
• NWT km 272: Happy Valley Territorial Campground – In the heart of Inuvik , 19 powered and 8 non-powered sites. The park is situated on a bluff overlooking the east branch of the Mackenzie River and offers a view of the Richardson Mountains.

Budget Accommodation options are available in Inuvik .

To experience summer conditions, including the midnight sun, plan your trip for June through September. September is a good month to view the fall colours if you don’t mind cooler temperatures. Between Mid-September to late October, you might see herds of caribou.

Access to Inuvik is possible year-round, except during the spring and fall with the break-up (thaw) and freeze-up of the ice at the Peel and Mackenzie River crossings.

February through April is recommended for winter travel. Winter is the best time to see the northern lights. You will be able to drive the ice roads on the Mackenzie River to Aklavik from mid-December to mid-April, depending on the weather. Be prepared for winter driving and the conditions!

Additional Information

The Dempster is a long road and some areas can be rough. The stretch around Midway Lake is known for road problems and was in bad shape when I went through, just after the rain. I was driving through deep mud for many kilometres and the driving experience was nerve-wracking. On the way south it was at the north end of Tombstone when the going was slow.

It was an amazing feeling to reach the end of the legendary Dempster Highway and arrive in  Inuvik a sleepy town that saw its glory days during the gas and oil boom in the 1990s. Today, the town is a vibrant mix of Inuvialuit, Gwich’in, and non-Native residents and is Mile 0 on the brand-new Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway.

As I stood there, thankful that I made it to the end of the Dempster, I quickly remembered that my journey was just beginning and that it was a long drive back to Dawson City.

A Journey of Awareness

Since I arrived in Canada’s North I have learned about First Nations and their culture. The Dempster took me through the traditional home of the Han, Gwich’in, and Inuvialuit people. Hunting, fishing, and trapping are still part of the life of many people living in the area.

Foraging on the Dempster

2 1/2 hours south of Inuvik I stopped my car. A First Nation couple was picking berries on the side of the road. I walked over to them and inquired about what they were picking. Cloudberries or “yellow” I was told. The couple drove down from Inuvik to this berry patch and has been picking since 2 am. It doesn’t get dark this time of year. They will freeze the berries when they get home and use them for desserts. “Pick some too,” said the woman with a smile.

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

“The Dempster Highway Travelogue” is an excellent 52-page mile-by-mile guide published by the Yukon and Northwest Territories governments. You can download it here .

Communities

• Eagle Plains Hotel at 371 km
• Fort McPherson at NWT km 86
• Tsiigehtchic (Arctic Red River) at NWT km 143
• Inuvik at NWT km 272

And while you’re here at the end of the road…

You want to go Tuktoyaktuk and dip your feet into the Arctic Ocean (Beaufort Sea). This is a great way to highlight your Arctic adventure.

And now, after driving the Dempster, explore other gravel travel highways of the North.

Travel Information

• Yukon Travel Guide
• Northwest Territories Travel Guide
• THE MILEPOST – Alaska Travel Planner is the only Travel Guide you need for your northern road trip.

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Dempster Highway Driving Guide to the Arctic Ocean in Tuktoyaktuk

Last Updated on April 9, 2024

The Dempster Highway is a truly unique road trip from already remote Dawson City into Canada’s Arctic and the shore of the Arctic Ocean. There is stunning and unique scenery everywhere, crossing four mountain ranges, going back and forth across the Continental Divide, traversing the only never glaciated area in Canada and crossing two epic northern rivers.

This is truly one of the most incredible road trips I have ever done. Many thanks to Go North Rentals in Fairbanks for letting us take one of their Scout Campers on this adventure!

I’ve driven almost every mile of road in Alaska and the Yukon in addition to this remote road trip, so you can trust me to give you straight talk about this drive, how to determine if it’s right for you and how to prepare for your trip.

“Highway” is a generous term for this narrow strip of gravel, which requires your complete focus and preparation. This is a journey for self sufficient adventurers with a good sense of humor. If that sounds like you, I can’t wait to show you the way and help you prepare for your own unforgettable road trip.

The Dempster Highway takes you through the land of the Gwich’in, Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in and Inuvialuit First Nations People.

How long does it take to drive the Dempster Highway?

• What are the road conditions like?
• What is the best time of year to drive the Dempster Highway?
• What is the best vehicle for the Dempster Highway?

How to get to the Dempster Highway

• Gas stations and Fuel availability

Hotel Accommodations along the Dempster Highway

• Camping on the Dempster Highway

Groceries and Restaurants along the Dempster Highway

What wildlife might i see along the dempster highway, what to pack, dempster guide: dawson city to tombstone territorial park, dempster guide: tombstone territorial park to eagle plains.

• Dempster Guide: Eagle Plains to Inuvik – Crossing the Arctic Circle

Dempster Guide: Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean

• Dempster Highway vs Dalton Highway
• Final Thoughts and advice

This article contains affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase I receive a small commission at no cost to you.

Debating between driving the Dempster Highway or the Dalton Highway to cross the arctic circle? Get our thoughts:

I recommend spending 5 days on the Dempster Highway, and more if you want to spent time hiking in the Tombstone Mountains or kayaking out to the Pingos in Tuktoyaktuk. It’s about 1000 miles (1600km) of gravel and often mud.

To drive from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk at the Arctic Ocean and back took us 33 hours. That included quick bathroom stops but not meal stops, exploring or sleeping. We averaged around 45 mph, occasionally we went a bit faster and when it was raining it was slower.

Driving on the Dempster is a lot more tiring than highway driving and you won’t want to do as many hours in a day as you might otherwise.

The highway is slow, and gets slower in wet weather. There are lots of unexpected potential delays (construction, ferries, hours of fuel stations) so you do not want to be rushing.

It can be done in as little as four days, but five is much more comfortable. That gives you two days to drive the Dempster, two days to drive back and a day to go up to Tuktoyaktuk and back.

What are the road conditions like on the Dempster Highway?

Is the Dempster Highway paved?

No. It’s gravel. There is a short paved section just south of Inuvik.

How rough is the Dempster Highway?

Since the Dempster is in a remote area and subject to extreme weather, the road conditions can vary a lot. When I drove the highway the same stretch of road was different going north and south in the same section depending on if it was raining or not.

Overall I was impressed at the condition of the highway. There were potholes in places and the mud got very slippery when it was raining, but overall it was very well maintained.

This road requires your constant attention as a driver. There may suddenly be heavy equipment in your lane, including graders, without warning. There are potholes in places and other bumps.

The best way to stay safe on the road is to make sure your vehicle is well maintained and do not try to go fast. I always recommend checking Yukon road conditions and Northwest Territories road conditions any time you have cell service.

Timelapse Video of the Dempster Highway and Road to Tuktoyaktuk

Really want to see what every moment is like? Watch it at high speed here:

When is the best time of year to drive the Dempster Highway?

September. The first half of September is absolutely stunning with the fall color but (usually) there isn’t snow yet. We did this drive the first week of September and I can’t imagine a better time.

I’m sure many people would tell you that summer is better, but I am happy to trade colder weather, some rain, fall color and the potential for seeing an Aurora for the midnight sun and bugs.

The highway is open all year, and locals often say it’s smoother in the winter. However, a winter drive here would require an even higher level of preparation, self sufficiency and experience with harsh winter weather.

What is the best vehicle to drive on the Dempster Highway?

We drove an F-150 pick up truck with a Scout Camper and it was absolutely ideal. Any pick up truck and camper combo would be great. A van camper would also work well as long as it had good clearance and tires.

Most of the highway you could drive in any well maintained car with excellent tires, though it would be slower in areas of rough road. There are areas where a high clearance vehicle is very helpful, but without one you could make it as long as you take it slow. Keep in mind if you drive a car that the options for staying in hotels along the way and tent camping can be hard if bugs or rain are intense. You also must have a full size spare tire, tire changing equipment and know how to change a tire.

I would not recommend this drive for trailers or larger RVs. I think in a smaller motorhome you would be ok as long as you didn’t have anything hanging below (like a dump hose) and the tires are in good condition.

We saw quite a few motorcycles along this road and I am not an expert on motorcycles but people are definitely doing it. Understand that you will be absolutely coated in mud or dust depending on the weather. We also saw people on bicycles which I can’t really imagine doing (bugs, dust, mud and vehicles passing slinging the same) but people are out there doing it!

The Dempster Highway starts near Dawson City in Canada’s Yukon Territory.

If you’re driving to the Dempster to start the drive, you’ll take the Klondike Highway north from Whitehorse or the Taylor Highway/Top of the World Highway from Tok, Alaska.

If you’re flying in to rent a vehicle for the drive, plan on flying to Whitehorse, Yukon or Fairbanks, Alaska and renting a vehicle.

I recommend renting from Go North Rentals in Whitehorse or Fairbanks, they rent pick up campers that are perfect for this drive and allow you to drive on these unpaved roads (most rental companies do not).

Gas Stations and Fuel Availability

Gas stations are extremely limited along this highway, it’s important to fill up at every opportunity.

There is a gas station where the Dempster Highway leaves the Klondike Highway, one in Eagle Plains, one in McPherson and a couple in Inuvik. There is also a fuel station in Tuktoyaktuk.

The longest distance between fuel stations is about 250 miles (about 400km). If your vehicle can go 250 miles between fuel stops, there is no reason to carry a gas can. We did not carry a gas can and did just fine.

Most gas stations are not open 24 hours, another reason to not be rushing on this drive.

Hotel options are limited and very basic along the Dempster. There are plenty of hotels in Dawson City. After that, there is a hotel in Eagle Plains and one in Fort McPherson. There are a few options in Inuvik.

It is important to make a plan and reserve hotels in advance if you are relying on them for your trip.

Camping along the Dempster Highway

Camping in a pick up camper is an ideal way to experience the Dempster Highway. You have flexibility in where you stop for the night but the protection from weather and bugs that an RV provides.

You can also tent camp and lots of people do this. Make sure your tent has a full rain fly and no leaks or holes to protect you from weather and bugs. You also need a tent that can stand up to the wind.

There are lots of pullouts where you can disperse camp. The Milepost tells you the location of every pullout as well as campgrounds. We found a great spot with a view our first night, and there were lots of beautiful pullouts. We found that there were more options before the Mackenzie River, and after the Mackenzie River there were not as many pullouts.

There are three Yukon Government campgrounds and five Northwest Territories Campground along the Dempster Highway. There is also the campground in Tuktoyaktuk next to the beach at the Arctic Ocean.

Most campgrounds do not have running water, although the two in Inuvik as well as the Nataiinlaii Campground near the Peel River ferry did have flushing toilets and showers. Some campgrounds have drinking water but not all.

Most campgrounds have big firewood piles that you can help yourself to, at a few you pay extra for firewood.

We were warned by locals that some campgrounds are VERY buggy in summer and some are almost unbearably windy. For example we learned that Rock River Campground is protected from the wind, but bugs can be terrible, meanwhile nearby James Creek Campground is extremely windy, too windy for tent camping (but good for keeping bugs away!).

I loved the Tombstone campground. It’s the busiest one we encountered, it does sometimes fill up in summer. It has several developed trails and is surrounded by the gorgeous Tombstone mountains.

My favorite campground overall that we stayed at was the Jak Territorial Park Campground just outside Inuvik. It had a gorgeous view of the Mackenzie Delta and running water. They also have the only playground we saw along the Dempster Highway. It was full of golden birch trees in early September.

Make sure to bring cash for camping, the only place we could pay with a credit card was at Jak. Everywhere else was $20-$25 Canadian cash for camping.

Your food options are extremely limited along the Dempster Highway. They are open limited and not always published hours.

I strongly urge you to bring all the food and snacks you need for your trip and enjoy a restaurant meal if one becomes available.

Stocking up on food in Whitehorse, Dawson City or Fairbanks are your best options. Keep in mind for Fairbanks you’ll be crossing the border into Canada and cannot bring fresh meat, fruits or vegetables. I bought everything except those items in Fairbanks and got vegetables in Dawson.

We enjoyed having lunch at the restaurant in Eagle Plains and the breakfast sandwich I had at the News Stand (like a convenience store) in Inuvik. Those were the only restaurants that were open at the times I was passing through. Everything else I ate for five days we brought with us.

If you have any restrictions on what you eat, you definitely need to bring your own food.

At times in spring and fall, you might see caribou migrating along the highway. There are also bears along the route (I saw one!).

The big wildlife highlight of this trip is the migratory birds throughout the Mackenzie River Delta. Millions of birds nest here during the summer.

The weather is unpredictable in the Arctic and there are no emergency services. You need to be as self sufficient as possible. Make sure you have some warm clothes and rain gear in addition to long sleeve lighter layers and long sleeve pants.

Bugs can be fierce in summer, make sure you have long pants, boots or shoes, long sleeve shirt, rain gear and a hat and headnet to protect yourself. You’ll also need sun protection.

It’s important to carry plenty of drinking water and cooking water as well as your own food. Water is very difficult to get along the Dempster.

You will want to have a copy of the Milepost , it will tell you where fuel, campgrounds, hotels and food are as well as toilets and trash cans and pullouts. It also has a map. These things are all important without cell service.

As far as your vehicle, make sure it’s in good repair and has excellent tires. You’ll need a full size spare tire and all the changing equipment. If you have a flat, you’ll need to be able to change it and drive over 100 miles before you can get it fixed.

Finally, I recommend bringing an emergency communications device, such as a satellite phone or satellite communicator. Make sure to tell friends and family back how how long you expect to be out of service and how they can contact you if you have an emergency device. Test it before you leave home!

I travel with a Garmin inReach Mini anytime I’m away from cell service. It has an emergency button to contact Search and Rescue and I can send short texts to family using it.

Once you get onto the Dempster Highway, it’s only 44 miles (70km) to the Interpretive Centre at Tombstone Territorial Park.

The Tombstone Mountains are a true gem and I highly encourage you to spend some time here.

There are numerous hiking trails as well as epic views and a wonderful campground.

This is also the busiest stretch of the Dempster, lots of people go to Tombstone who don’t travel further up the highway.

Leaving Tombstone, you quickly come to North Pass, the highest elevation spot along the Dempster Highway at 4600 feet/1400 m. You’ll then be leaving the Tombstone Mountains and driving along the Blackstone River to Chapman Lake.

After cresting Windy Pass, you’ll descend into a canyon among the Northern Ogilvie Mountains to Engineer Creek. This area is one of the very few places in Canada that has never been under ice and glaciers!

You’ll slowly leave this set of mountains behind as you get closer to Eagle Plains.

A mandatory stop, Eagle Plains was built to provide services to travelers on the highway between Dawson City and Inuvik. You’ll need to get gas here and if the restaurant is open, grab a meal. Be ready to encounter many friendly dogs in Eagle Plains!

Dempster Guide: Eagle Plains to the Arctic Circle and Inuvik

Leaving Eagle Plains, you drive through a wide valley with the Richardson Mountains in the distance. This stunning vista provides the backdrop when you arrive at the Arctic Circle. Spend some time here to take in the incredible view. There’s even a picnic table perfect for having some lunch.

After leaving the Arctic Circle you’ll slowly climb to Wright Pass, which marks the border between the Yukon and Northwest Territories. There is a one hour time change here in the summer with Northwest Territories being an hour ahead of the Yukon. The ridgeline makes for a wonderful hike if it’s a nice day.

As you continue into the Northwest Territories, you’ll descend to the Peel River and then the Mackenzie River. Each river requires a ferry crossing so expect to wait a bit for your turn on the ferry.

If the timing works out, the Nataiinlaii Campground just on the north side of the ferry is lovely campground with flushing toilets and a short, flat and beautiful trail to a viewpoint over the Peel River.

Continuing on the highway, the village of Fort McPherson is a short distance off the highway and has gas, a restaurant and a hotel.

The next river you’ll come to is the mighty Mackenzie River, the second longest river in North America. The Nagwichoonjik/Kuukpak/Mackenzie River is an unexpected highlight of this entire trip. You cross it on the ferry and then drive near it the rest of the way to Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk along and through its delta, which is immense and an important nesting area to millions of birds. It is large enough to moderate the climate in its basin creating a unique and vast ecosystem. The river basin formed about 13000 years ago by glacial lake outburst floods and drains much all of the Northwest Territories and much of the Yukon, British Columbia, Alberta and Saskatchewan.

People have lived along this river and its delta for at least centuries and probably thousands of years in permanent and seasonal homes.

The Gwich’in Community of Tsiigehtchic is also served by the ferry crossing and has been a community in this location for about 1400 years. The Gwich’in name for the river is Nagwichoonjik (river flowing through a big country).

The river is called Kuukpak (Great River) by Inuvialuit. The Inuvialuit have lived near the mouth of the Kuukpak and it’s delta for about 1000 years.

Settling into the Mackenzie Delta, we found the rest of the road to Inuvik the roughest stretch of road with the least pullouts and viewpoints.

Even if you don’t stay at Jak Territorial Park Campground, definitely go into the park to check out the observation tower with its incredible view over the Mackenzie Delta.

When you arrive in Inuvik, be prepared that this is a community that exists to serve as a commercial hub and health care hub for Northwest Territories residents.

There are limited visitor services in Inuvik but you can definitely get gas. I recommend asking at the gas station if any restaurants or stores are open. There are only a couple and they have limited hours, but locals will know where to send you!

We got a great breakfast sandwich from Mac’s News Stand that we never would have found without a local directing us there.

I recommend doing this section of the drive as a day trip from Inuvik so you can enjoy the drive and have some time at the Arctic Ocean. Plan on this 90 mile drive taking 2.5 to 3 hours in each direction.

The road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk was completed in 2018. Before that, you had to fly to Tuk unless it was winter when the ice road was stable. The road is much like the Dempster, though there were a few more potholes and washboard.

It starts in the forest around Inuvik and slowly becomes less trees and more tundra as you approach the Arctic Ocean. There are lots of tiny lakes and you are along the Mackenzie Delta. The tundra is bright red in early September.

When you get close to Tuk, make sure to stop at the Pingo Canadian Landmark to see the impressive ice mounds that stick up from the otherwise pancake flat tundra. If you have time, you can rent kayaks here to get closer to them.

When you get to Tuktoyaktuk, you’ll drive through the village to the end of Beaufort Drive to get to the Arctic Ocean. There’s a sign and some beach area (obey all access signs) along with outhouses and picnic tables. You can camp here and there are several firepits.

Is the Dempster Highway or the Dalton Highway better for crossing the Arctic Circle and going to the Arctic Ocean?

If you’re considering the Dempster Highway drive as a way to drive across the Arctic Circle, you might be wondering if this is the best way to do it compared to the Dalton Highway in Alaska.

I like the Dempster Highway drive better, but it is definitely farther from Fairbanks or Whitehorse, so if your only goal is to just cross the Arctic Circle, it will be shorter on the Dalton. The Dalton Highway also has more truck traffic.

If you choose the Dalton Highway, you can’t drive your personal vehicle to the Arctic Ocean since it’s part of the Prudhoe Bay oil field. You have to take a bus to get there, so if you have your heart set on driving your own vehicle to the Arctic Ocean, the Dempster is where it’s at!

Final thoughts and Advice for driving the Dempster Highway

Driving the Dempster Highway to Canada’s Arctic is a challenging and remote adventure, and travelers should prioritize preparation and planning as well as being as self sufficient as possible. A few other final thoughts:

• A pick up camper was the ideal vehicle for this drive. With high clearance and excellent tires, we were able to navigate random construction and potholes no problem. The camper was great since there aren’t many hotels.
• There was no cell phone service for nearly all of this drive. We had a Garmin inReach for emergencies. I would encourage other drivers to have a satellite phone or a satellite communicator like a Garmin.
• There were limited places to get food, either groceries or restaurants. We were very glad we had plenty of provisions that we had bought in Fairbanks and Dawson.

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The Dempster Highway

The Dempster Highway is a 740 KM bucket list journey from Dawson City, Yukon to Inuvik, Northwest Territories offering incredible scenery, wide open spaces and remote beauty.

STAY. CAMP. REST. SLEEP.

Whether you are looking for a well-maintained camp site to park your RV for a few nights or for a full-service hotel at the end of your long drive, there are a number of options to be explored along the Dempster Highway

TOUR OPERATORS

Are you ready for adventure but need a bit of local advice or guidance? The Western Arctic is home to a number of local tourism operators offering one to multi-day trips along the Dempster Highway

COMMUNITIES ALONG THE DEMPSTER

As you leave Eagle Plains just South of the Arctic Circle and make your way North, there are a number of communities offering services and amenities to Dempster travellers

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

Ready to trade in your hiking boots for dancing shoes and are looking for live music? Take time out from driving and celebrate along side of locals at one of our many events or festivals.

 Finished the Dempster Highway but ready to adventure further?

Now travellers can reach the Arctic Ocean along the 147 km Inuvik Tuktoyaktuk Highway

ARTS, CRAFTS, & LOCAL FOOD

Looking to purchase a local craft or hand crafted piece of art? Or maybe you've heard of about our locally made donuts, dry fish, or even permafrost pesto made from greens grown in Inuvik's Community Greenhouse? From Tsiigehtchic to Inuvik, there is ample opportunity to support our local artisans and get a real taste of Canada's Western Arctic

LOCAL CULTURES

The Dempster Highway makes it way through incredible wilderness and through the traditional lands of our local First Nations, the Gwich'in. Driving beyond the Gwich'in Settlement Area and out towards the Beaufort Sea, you will enter the traditional land of the Inuivialuit, the Inuit of the Western Arctic. While the Gwich'in, Inuvialuit, & Metis people continue to live in the communities of the Dempster Highway, so do more recent residents, making communities like Inuvik a vibrant multicultural community.

Driving the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle, Canada

Simply put, the Dempster Highway is one of the best road trips in the world. It’s a one way trip to the Arctic, through the middle of tundra, jagged mountains and limitless wilderness.  

The wilderness here is rich, barren, lush and desolate all at the same time. This is the Arctic that you never imagined.

The Dempster is Canada’s only highway crossing the Arctic Circle. The 735km-long Dempster Highway was built in 1979 and roughly follows the traditional First Nation transportation route between the Yukon and Peel river systems.

We spent an incredible three weeks on and around the Dempster Highway – read on for tales from the road plus a practical guide to completing this epic trip yourself.

Freedom of the road: the Dempster Highway

Driving the Dempster Highway is a one-of-a-kind experience. The start of the highway is about an hour from Dawson City, itself an interesting gold rush outpost.

From here, the road travels through Tombstone Territorial Park and then there is nothing for the next 300km.

Well, nothing in terms of human life aside from a random RV or car maybe every couple of hours.

There is however so much else; the unexpectedly vibrant flowers, stunted trees, a huge variety of animals from grizzlies and porcupines to black foxes and moose.

The Dempster Highway has a reputation for being rough and a real-tire eater, but we were actually pleasantly surprised (even with it claiming one of our own all-terrain tires).

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Under the Midnight Sun of the north

About an hour before we reached the Arctic Circle, our GPS started to go a little crazy. Apparently sunrise would now be at 6 pm and sunset at 10 am.

Arriving at the official line of latitude (405km in) a little while later, it just gave up. We would later toast our drinks at midnight to celebrate my 25th birthday, also the summer solstice. For the next 50 or so days there would be 24 hours of daylight.

24 hours of daylight was exciting, novel and amazing all at once but it was hard to sleep.

The town of Inuvik is found at the ‘old’ end of the Dempster Highway (the all-season road was extended to the town of Tuktoyaktuk in 2018), and while we enjoyed our time there, it was also 33 degrees Celsius for the entirety of our stay, 24 hours a day. It was a bit intense.

For other purposes, 24-hour daylight is awesome. We fished, drove and hiked late at ‘night,’ getting back on the road at whatever time we pleased.

The fishing on the Dempster, by the way, is productive. For once, we actually caught plenty of fish.

A journey of discovery on the Dempster Highway

One of the most unexpected parts of the trip was how much we learned about local First Nation culture. The Dempster Highway travels through the traditional home of the Han, Gwich’in and Inuvialuit people.

These lands have fed and sheltered generations of First Nation people. Hunting, fishing and trapping still remain an integral part of the life of many people living in the area.

We met such generous and kind folks over the two weeks we travelled the Dempster and gained a much better appreciation and respect for the area and its people.

Learning how to make Labrador tea, bannock and jam, JR also made sure to eat plenty of the traditionally smoked whitefish.

Another surprising part of the trip was finding fossilised coral next to Engineer Creek!

Some unwelcome companions

Being so far north not only offered us the experience of 24-hour daylight but also that of hoards of mosquitoes and black flies trying to drink our blood. And by hoards, I mean millions and millions of them.

Being outside of our vehicle was a huge challenge at times.

Even being inside the vehicle could be difficult – we loved our Astro Van , but a huge number of mosquitoes found their way in through the old vents and tormented us in our sleep, despite using a net. I still have flashbacks of the buzzing.

Needless to say, bringing bug repellent is a necessity. I also wouldn’t recommend camping in valleys – the Rock River campground (445km) was something of a breeding ground. The windy days were by far our favourite days on the Dempster.

Must see stops when driving the Dempster Highway

For such an isolated and supposedly desolate road, there is a surprising amount to see and experience on the Dempster Highway. Here are our highlights:

• Tombstone Territorial Park – visit the Interpretive Centre for information on trails and camping. Samples of local food and drink (Bannock, Labrador tea) are occasionally offered. We did two overnight hikes in Tombstone – the first to Rake Mountain (off-trail) and then Grizzly Lake (on-trail).
• Two Moose Lake – Stop here at the pullout for bird and moose watching.
• Blackstone River – Great fishing! We caught many grayling in the river along with some Dolly Varden too
• Chapman Lake – Worth a stop for the wonderful views of mountains behind the lake
• Engineer Creek –  Have a go at finding some fossilised coral here, near the bridge
• Eagle Plains – The perfect place for a meal, shower and gas. Open year round
• Arctic Circle Crossing – Gotta get that iconic photo!
• Around 450km mark – Great hiking, photo and camping opportunities

• Nitainlaii Territorial Park Interpretive Centre – Learn about the Gwich’in way of life at this locally run centre
• Fort McPherson – Dene Indian settlement with ‘Lost Patrol’ gravesite outside Anglican Church. Gas station
• Tithequehchii Vitail Lookout – Short walk to the viewing platform overlooking Campbell Lake
• Ehjuu Njik Wayside Park (Cabin Creek) – Good fishing opportunities for grayling
• Jak Territorial Park – Lookout tower with views of Mackenzie River Delta and mountains
• Inuvik – Be sure to check out the ‘igloo’ church and community greenhouses (in an old ice rink!)

Looking to book a stay in Inuvik?

Arctic Chalet – Highly rated on Booking.com

Nova Inn Inuvik – Great location

The best time to drive the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle and Beyond

The truth of it is that the best time of year to drive on the Dempster Highway depends on what you want to see.

Our trip was focused around the summer solstice because 1) it was my birthday on 21st June (longest birthday EVER!) and 2) it fitted well in with the rest of our summer plans.

Travelling on the Dempster in mid-June, however, meant that the blackflies and mosquitoes were in full force, which is less of a problem later on in the season.

The early season timeframe also limited the hiking opportunities in Tombstone Territorial Park – the Grizzly Lake trail , for example, did not open until early July that year.

Another popular reason to visit later in the summer is the fiery fall colours that start appearing around August.

Practicalities for a Dempster Highway road trip

The Dempster Highway is a long road and rough in certain areas. While it is reasonably well maintained, your vehicle should be in decent enough shape to drive a couple thousand kilometres in the dirt.

• A good spare tire is essential as is a puncture repair kit, air compressor and jack. We lost a tire just before reaching the Arctic Circle and purchased a new one in Inuvik for the same price as it would have been in Vancouver!
• If you drive an older vehicle (like we did), I’d also suggest bringing spare oil
• Some kind of strong tape is also really helpful for covering the vehicle seals between doors to keep the dirt out

• While we did buy a 25L gas can for the journey, we didn’t actually need it. Gas is very expensive in Inuvik ($1.89/l at the time) but you can also fill up in Eagle Plains (369km) and Fort McPherson (551km). I think bringing gas may come into play if you plan to drive the Dempster in a short amount of time (two to three days), and therefore the gas stations in Eagle Plains and Fort McPherson may be closed
• Driving-wise, my main tip is that if the road is wet DRIVE SLOWLY. The road becomes exceptionally slippery when wet and being that most of the road is elevated due to the permafrost underneath if you slip off, you’re going into a big ditch. My recommendation is to get off the road when it is raining heavily. This is another reason not to do this trip in just a few days – I would suggest four days as a3 minimum
• Pick up any needed supplies in Whitehorse or Dawson City before heading to the Dempster Highway. Dawson City is only a 30-minute drive from the start of the Dempster, so well worth the round trip if you have forgotten something important
• Expect to receive no phone signal at all on the majority of the Dempster Highway

Take your time and drive safe. Get on Dempster-time and just enjoy one of the best road trips in the world! Up to date road conditions can be found on 511Yukon. 

Dempster Highway camping advice

There are lots of great wild camping spots along the Dempster Highway, alongside a handful of maintained rustic campgrounds (pit toilets, picnic benches etc.)

The rustic campgrounds on the Dempster Highway have the bonus of covered shelters with screens on the windows, which are very useful for avoiding rain and bugs.

The disadvantage is that these campgrounds are all located next to water sources with very little wind. Consequently, they can be very buggy.

If you need to get clean, there are showers at the halfway point at Eagle Plains. We did not stay at this Dempster Highway campground (next to the hotel) but asked if we could use the showers and were told to just go ahead.

Dempster Highway road trip essentials

Here are a few must-have items for any summer Dempster Highway road trip, tried and tested by us!

• The Milepost Travel Planner – a mile-by-mile account of the Dempster Highway, plus every other major highway in Alaska and Yukon
• Mosquito Head Net – Trust me, you’ll thank me for this one on those windless days in early summer…
• Portable Tire Air Compressor – A lifesaver when you find that your spare tire is slightly deflated
• Tire Repair Kit – Very helpful for small punctures while driving the Dempster Highway
• Bug Repellent Spray – Don’t even question it
• Bear Spray – Just in case! Note, this is not a replacement for practising basic bear avoidance techniques
• Fishing kit (and fishing license) – Because the fishing really is THAT good on the Dempster

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One half of the Canadian/British couple behind Off Track Travel, Gemma is happiest when hiking on the trail or planning the next big travel adventure. JR and Gemma are currently based in the beautiful Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

Saturday 4th of July 2020

I have 2 weeks for this trip is that enough time from Chilliwack to the artic circle?

Monday 6th of July 2020

It just about enough time to drive the 6,500km journey there and back but that's a lot of driving in such a relatively short amount of time! Personally, I like to stop at plenty of places on road trips so that kind of trip wouldn't appeal to me. But it is physically possible as long as the weather is fine and your vehicle makes the journey.

Hi there, Mike here im planning a trip to the artic circle in late july early August i have a 2017 ram 1500 and a 24 foot rv any suggestions for my trip im leaving Chilliwack Bc

Steve Taylor

Tuesday 4th of December 2018

I really enjoyed your blog. I'm hoping to do this drive in June 2019 with myself and my dog (maybe another dog by then) . I have an old 2008 Subaru Forester so I want to get something newer by then (although the Sub has never let me down)

The bugs sound like the biggest challenge.....and tires!

Sounds like it will be an awesome trip! The bugs are definitely the biggest challenge by far on the Dempster, especially in June. Good luck!

Saturday 11th of August 2018

45 years ago (1973) my husband and I relocated from Victoria to Ottawa. We took a little detour up to Anchorage (via ferry) and then drove the Alaska Hgh via Road at the Top of the World to Dawson. Stopped at the entrance to the Dempster - had barely started and always said we'd be back. Your article is great - think it'll be now before we're toooooo old (mid 70's now). Our son drove it six years ago and keeps at us. Thanks for the article, your encouragement and great advice. Fingers crossed for this year.

Sounds like a great plan Carol! I hope you two make it, driving the Dempster is just a wonderful experience. Do let me know how it goes.

Monday 16th of July 2018

Really good info Gemma. My wife and I set off on the 1st Sept travelling up from Vancouver Island onto Bella Coola, Stewart, Telegraph Creek and then onto Dawson - then to iqaluit and finally Tuc (the new road is now open I believe). Again may thanks for your post -very helpful

Tuesday 17th of July 2018

Sounds like a fab adventure! Make sure you do go to Inuvik rather than Iqaluit though, as they are quite different places in very different locations ;)

Dempster Highway Road Trip – Yes You Can Drive to the Arctic

Written By: The Planet D

Canada , Road Trips

Updated On: February 8, 2024

For the ultimate road trip adventure, there isn’t a lot that compares to the Dempster Highway . A Dempster Highway road trip is a great Canadian Adventure that very few have the opportunity to do.    

This 736 km road stretches from the far Arctic in Inuvik, Northwest Territories, to Dawson City in the Yukon. 

• Note: Since we drove the Dempster Highway, it has been extended another 120 km North from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk.

Table of Contents

Driving the Dempster Highway

The Dempster Highway is about as remote as it gets – taking you through mountains, over great rivers, and even crossing the Arctic Circle.

There are no facilities on the Dempster Highway. Once you leave Inuvik you are on your own until you reach the small outpost town of Fort McPherson.

Inuvik is a sleepy town located in the Northwest Territories that was booming during the gas and oil days but has simmered down after the 1990s. It holds the high honour of being the most northerly town that anyone can drive to.

During the summer months, it is the land of the midnight sun with 56 days of 24-hour sunlight. Inuvik is a great starting point for your road trip on the Dempster Highway.

The Dempster Highway Road Trip Begins

We flew into Inuvik on a one-way ticket from Whitehorse, Yukon. The flight was a long one from Whitehorse stopping at three different communities before landing at our destination. The flights feel more like a local bus that an airplane.

There are a couple of hotels, restaurants, and bars in Inuvik to make your stay pleasant, and there’s an excellent department store where you can pick up any extra supplies you need for the road trip.

Our drive started in Inuvik, NWT

We rented a four-wheel drive truck from Driving Force in Inuvik. It’s not cheap to rent, costing about $2000 for one week with your one-way return in Whitehorse, Yukon . But it offers a lot of freedom.

For one, you don’t have to drive all the way to Inuvik! You can fly into the Northwest Territories and then fly out from Whitehorse, Yukon.

Hot Tips for Driving the Dempster Highway

If you aren’t renting an SUV from Driving Force, you want to make sure that your vehicle is in excellent condition as there aren’t a lot of places to stop and get any repairs needed.

Make sure to have a spare tire, plenty of water, food, and a full tank of gas. If you are worried that your tank is too small, bring an extra jerrycan filled with gas to get you through the trip.

• We love road trips – Check out these Top Stops on the Cabot Trail

We set off to explore the Dempster Highway early in the morning (although with permanent daylight, it could’ve been any time of the day). When travelling in the far Canadian North, time isn’t a factor. You just go until you’re tired because you are in the land of the Midnight Sun and you could drive all night.

Thinking of Driving to the Arctic or heading out on a big drive? Make sure to download these Ultimate Road Trip Songs. 

Inuvik to Eagle Plains Hotel

The rain started on the first portion of our trip along the Dempster Highway, so we made good time through the Northwest Territories. With rainy, foggy, and grey conditions, we didn’t have a lot of reasons to stop and enjoy the sights.

Lucky for us, everyone told us that the Yukon portion of the Dempster Highway is the most scenic anyway. Even though we were bummed about the weather, we were still optimistic that things would get better.

• For travel planning to Canada, check out our Canada Travel Guide

River Crossings on the Dempster Highway

During our drive down the Dempster Highway, we crossed two rivers including Canada’s longest river, the Mackenzie River.

Each of these river crossings was easy and uneventful, but we found out later that we were one of the last to cross that day due to the bad weather.

The rivers were flooding and they closed the ferries just a short time after we crossed. We made it in the nick of time.

So when planning your Dempster Highway drive be prepared for delays and ever changing weather conditions. You could be stuck waiting for hours for conditions to change.

Pick up your Lonely Planet Travel Guide to Canada. 

Fort McPherson

Before doing our second river crossing, we took our time to explore the town of Fort McPherson.

Fort McPherson started out as a fur-trading outpost for the Hudson Bay Company and had the first Mounted Police post in the Western Arctic. It’s worth checking out before hopping on the ferry to cross the Peel River.

We didn’t have to wait long for the ferry and after a short crossing, we were on our way down the Dempster Highway to our next stop.

The rain refused to let up and driving the shale road was slippery and a knuckle wrenching task as the fog was dense and the conditions were slick.

It is common to see a lot of wildlife on the Dempster Highway, including grizzly bears. But during our trip, most of the wildlife was hiding because of the weather.

We did manage to see a caribou running along the road as we approached. And we saw our fair share of humans pedaling bikes down the Dempster.

Crossing the Arctic Circle

It rained our entire first day of the trip down the Dempster, but that didn’t stop us from getting out to celebrate our crossing of the Arctic Circle.

We’d been above the Arctic before, but we’d never stood on the Arctic Circle.

This was one of those moments similar to the excitement one feels when standing on the Equator in Ecuador , the Greenwich Meridian in Britain or the Tropic of Capricorn in Namibia . It’s just a damn cool experience.

The Arctic Circle crossing happened just a little past the Northwest Territories on the Yukon border. It was funny to notice the Yukon sign falling apart, seeing very little love.

There wasn’t a big celebration entering another province, it was just a quick snapshot before moving on. That’s okay though, the Arctic Circle waited for us and that’s what we were excited about.

We took in the view and then decided to move on before the weather got worse.

Watch our Dempster Highway Video

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Airplane Strip on Dempster Highway

An interesting fact about the Dempster Highway is that airplanes land on the road and share the highway with cars.

With such a low ceiling and thick fog, we didn’t worry about coming face to face with any aircraft today, but the thought did cross our minds.

Could you imagine seeing fog lights ahead, but instead of them being another vehicle, they’re on a helicopter or airplane?

We kept our eyes peeled for any sights that we might have wanted to backtrack to the next day, but decided to drive on to our overnight stop at the Eagle Plains Hotel .

The Eagle Plains Hotel

We couldn’t tell if the woman who greeted us was just in a bad mood or if that’s the way she treated all the guests.

We had just finished the first day of our epic road trip that so many people dream of doing, and she was short and gruff with the two of us.

Our room was ready though, so we hauled in our gear and settled in for a meal at the bar.

The hotel is a basic roadside motor inn, but there is a lot of history at the Eagle Plains Hotel.

Make sure you go into the bar to peruse the old photographs hanging on the wall.

It depicts the history of the area with the highlight being the Mad-Trapper Man hunt that ended in the accused, Albert Johnson, being killed, but not before he took out RCMP officer Edgar Millan.

There are moose and deer heads hanging on the walls and you feel that you have stepped back in time 100 years.

The hotel was full that night as word got out that the ferry crossings had stopped. People driving up from Dawson City were disappointed that they couldn’t continue on.

Motorcyclists came in covered in mud and even the bush pilots were grounded for the night.

Dempster Highway Conditions

We topped up the gas in our truck and filled up our water bottles before settling in for the night.

It was a restless sleep as the excitement and anticipation grew for the day ahead. Would we see sunshine on the horizon? It was easy to tell that the weather was still bad outside with the 24-hour daylight.

We went to sleep in the light, but the daylight had a very grey and foggy hue about it.

We hoped the conditions would  changes while we sleep.

Leg 2 –  Eagle Plains to Dawson City

When we woke up in the morning, the fog was still heavy, but we decided to push forward with the hope that things would change.

To our amazement, as we descended in elevation, the sun came out and we were welcomed by a beautiful day!

Things were looking up and we were about to start the most beautiful portion of the trip.

Our truck was covered in mud and dirt and we looked like we had been driving for months rather than just the few hours the day before.

We did manage to clean off our windows so we could ta in the sunshine and views of the mountain vistas and deep valleys.

Our day was spent climbing and descending through the Eagle Plains, Peel River Plateau, North Ogilvie and Mackenzie Mountains.

Each scene grew more beautiful as the day went on.

The Tombstone Mountains

We made sure to stop regularly, with a highlight being the Tombstone Mountains . We couldn’t believe the cars that passed this view by.

The beauty of driving the Dempster Highway was definitely having the freedom to stop where we liked, when we liked. We made sure to take in each view and relish the moments.

Our trip took us two days, but I recommend using a campervan and taking four days.

There are campsites along the highway and if you take your time you’ll get to take in all the sights along the way.

Dawson City

It was late in the day when we finally made it to the Klondike town of Dawson City.

Dawson City is a stark contrast of the solitude and quiet of the Dempster Highways. Here you’ll find showgirls, nightclubs, casinos and an all-around rip-roaring good time.

But that is another story that you will have to wait to hear all about .

We still had a short drive into Dawson City, but our Dempster Highway road trip was over. It was a great adventure and if we had more time, we’d take at least four days to explore.

There are many hiking trails, campsites and scenic views still to see!

But we were excited for Dawson City. We have dreamed of seeing this town since I auditioned to be a dancer for the saloon show in the 1990s. It always seemed so exotic to me. Now we finally had our chance to see it.

Dempster Highway Map – Our Route

Other Recommended scenic stops on the Dempster Highway

Peel Ogilvie Lookout Elephant Rock km 221.2 Tortured Rock km 220 Caribou Trails – It wasn’t caribou migration season when we were on the Dempster Highway but you can see the trails etched into the side of mountains left by the thousands of  caribou  that walk through these hills each year.

Our trip to the Yukon was sponsored by Yukon Tourism. For more information on travelling to the Yukon and driving to the Arctic on the Dempster Highway, visit  TravelYukon . All opinions are our own. 

Travel Planning Resources

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10 thoughts on “Dempster Highway Road Trip – Yes You Can Drive to the Arctic”

It was great to read about your travels on The Dempster. The one question I have is will I be able to drive The Dempster in my car. 2005 Chevy Cavalier?

Nice read, I did this trip in July 2016 and had horrible weather, rain turned the road into plowing mud, sliding off the road was a real fear and I did see one recent wreck that was cleaned up by the time I was on my way back. I did camp at rustic camp site costing $8 including unlimited firewood. The screened shelter with fire stoves were a welcome site. It snowed at Happy valley camp park that night/day . I plan to return in 2 weeks this I hope weather will be better and I can get out of the car and plan to drive the new 170km section to Tak. BTW given the cold weather bugs were a non-issue for me.

This is such an epic trip – your photos are fantastic. We spent two weeks on the Dempster Highway back in 2014 and loved the scenery and isolation. Best tip I can offer to road trippers is to NOT stay at the Territorial campsites en-route (except the Tombstone one) – although they are fantastic elsewhere, the ones on the Dempster are located in the most mosquito infested areas EVER.

hi i cannot find any company that rent a car in Whitehorse and has Inuvik as the return location… can you help? thanks

Hi Mario, I would suggest that you check out Driving Force ( https://www.drivingforce.ca ). They are who we used. They do one way rentals as well for the Dempster. You might have to call as it doesn’t look like they have the info on their website.

Thanks for your reply! Looking forward to read about your next adventure 🙂

I agree with your sense of freedom that comes from driving your own car and stopping where ever you want to. You answer to no one. (Well, you do of course, the car rental firm won’t be happy if you don’t turn the car back in time!) Thanks for the advice to rent a camper van. It must be a magical experience to wake up on a camping site and open the door to one of the views in your video.

The road looks quite good, although muddy. Did you feel you really needed a four wheel drive?

One of life’s purposes must be to live at least some of your dreams. Now driving the Dempster Highway has become one of mine 🙂

You can definitely do it without a four wheel drive. Just make sure your vehicle is in good shape and you have good tires. If you are camping, you can always wait out the weather too. The roads are quite slippery because they are made of a shale like stone, so they’re more slippery than other roads. But you can just take your time and it’s no problem.

Great,That an awesome highways. one of best highway for road trip and have so much things to get fun. it is full with natural beauty and you captured awesome photos of that beautiful place.

Looks like an epic drive through this part of Canada. Great shots Dave!

The Dempster Highway Road Trip Guide

By: Author The Drivin' & Vibin' Team

Posted on June 14, 2021

Tucked away in northwest Canada is a remote highway you may have never heard of – the Dempster Highway. But it’s a trip you might want to consider taking.

Traveling the Dempster Highway in Canada will certainly provide you with the perfect mix of history, fun adventures, and stunning views.

Today, we’ll look at the Dempster Highway and find out what you can expect on this unique road trip.

Let’s go!

Where is the Dempster Highway? 

The Dempster Highway is in northwest Canada, crossing two territories. In fact, the Dempster Highway connects the Klondike Highway in Yukon to Inuvik, Northwest Territories, on the Mackenzie River delta.

The route will also take you over the gorgeous Peel and Mackenzie Rivers. The start of Dempster Highway begins 25 miles east of Dawson City, Yukon.

History of the Dempster Highway 

The Dempster Highway’s name honors Corporal William Dempster from the North-West Mounted Police. In December 1910, an inspector named Francis Joseph Fitzgerald and three other men went on an annual winter patrol from Fort McPherson to Dawson City. Sadly, the men became lost on the trail, and as a result, died of exposure and starvation.

In March 1911, Corporal William Dempster and two others went on a rescue mission to look for Fitzgerald and the three others. Dempster and the men later found the bodies of the patrol on March 22, 1911.

Completed in 1978, the Dempster Highway was a 19-year project that began in 1959. The discovery of oil in the area led to the construction of the Dempster Highway to allow for further exploration. In 1978 the highway was completed, but it officially opened in August of 1979. The route follows the old dog sled route that takes you from Dawson City to Fort McPherson. The highway helps connect this northern region to southern Canada and also supports the transporting of supplies. 

How Long is the Dempster Highway? 

The Dempster Highway covers 456 miles taking travelers from Dawson City to Inuvik, NWT. While this route covers less than 500 miles, be ready for a long trip. The road can be slow going at times and has limited services. Those preparing to tackle this journey should expect to spend at least two days driving in each direction. 

Is the Dempster Highway Dangerous? 

While the Dempster Highway is a remote road, it is in good condition. Drivers should always be alert, watching out for changes in the road, potholes, oncoming traffic, and wildlife. The route can be tight in some locations and might require drivers to pull over when facing oncoming traffic. 

Even if your vehicle can cover 500 miles without many fuel stops, you will want to bring along extra fuel as there are only two places to stop for services. Running out of fuel could lead to a long day. 

Due to the limited services provided on this highway, drivers should have a full-size spare tire with them at all times. Those with unusually sized tires or RVs may want to consider having multiple spares so you can ensure a smooth experience if you have a blowout or two.

Dempster Highway in Dawson City

Dawson City is the launching point onto the Dempster Highway, but don’t bypass it in your eagerness to begin the drive. This walkable city transports you into the exciting world of the gold rush. There are tours to help you get a complete picture of both the historical components and modern advances of Dawson City. 

If you’d like to try your hand at gold panning, you’re in luck! Drive out to Free Claim #6 and spend your day having fun trying to strike it rich. This free location provides no guides or supplies, so you’ll need to come prepared. 

Dempster Highway at the Arctic Circle

If crossing into the Arctic Circle is on your bucket list, you’ll be able to check off that box while driving the Dempster Highway. Just past the highway point of your drive, you’ll find yourself at latitude 66° 33’, otherwise known as the Arctic Circle.

Crossing into the Arctic Circle will reward you with great photo opportunities, including a sign to mark the accomplishment. If you plan it right and can be there to experience the summer solstice, you’ll be able to watch the sun circle around you, never setting. 

Dempster Highway in the Northwest Territories

Now that you’ve made your way to the northern portion of the Dempster Highway, you’ll get to experience the Northwest Territories. Beautiful views of the Richardson Mountains will give way to the Peel River. Here you’ll cross the river via a free ferry or ice bridge, depending on the time of year. 

Between Peel River and Mackenzie River, you’ll find the Lost Patrol Gravesite. This is where the men from the Northwest Mounted Police patrol lay at rest. From there, you can cross the Mackenzie River, again, by either a free ferry or ice bridge. 

Hiking on the Dempster Highway

The experience of being on the Dempster Highway doesn’t limit you to staying in your car. Part of the experience is getting out and exploring. Thankfully there are a few great hikes to enjoy along the way. 

Tombstone Goldensides

The Tombstone Goldensides hike will take you on an out-and-back journey that’s a bit over two miles in length. There’s an elevation gain of 718 feet, and it’s rated as easy. So, all skill levels should enjoy this hike. 

Those who choose to trek Tombstone Goldensides will experience views of the valleys of Tombstone. Wildlife viewing is another excellent opportunity for hikers. At the turnaround point, the more adventurous can scramble up the rocks for a spectacular 360-degree view. 

Tombstone Grizzly Ridge

Tombstone Grizzly Ridge is a three-mile hike not far off Dempster Highway. This trail is a moderate hike with an elevation gain of 1387 feet. While you’ll climb a considerable amount, the effort is worth it. This hike will present you with views of Mount Monolith, which is at the end of Grizzly Valley. 

The trail is well-defined and easy to follow. It’s certainly one of the most popular hikes in Tombstone Territorial Park, and it’s easy to see why. The views combined with a trail in excellent condition make it the perfect escape for hikers.  Those who’d like to extend their hike can continue to follow the ridge towards Grizzly Lake. 

Camping on the Dempster Highway

Once you get on the Dempster Highway, you’ll have the urge to slow down and enjoy the experience a bit longer. Camping along the Dempster Highway is a great way to prolong the drive and allow you to take it all in. We’ve gathered a few options for you to stop and enjoy an evening on the Dempster Highway. 

Tombstone Mountain Campground

Tombstone Mountain Campground provides a great place to rest while on your Dempster Highway journey. These are basic no-frills sites but are adequate for a simple stay. The views, hiking available, and wildlife viewing make this a great place to spend the night or even a few days. 

At the campground, you will find vault toilets for those who would like to make use of them. Water is available, but you should boil or filter it before use as it is straight from the nearby river. Some campers report that firewood is provided for free, setting you up for a great evening around the fire.

Pro Tip: This campground can fill up quickly in the busy season, so be sure to arrive early to snag a spot. 

Eagle Plains Hotel and RV Campground

If you’re tired of roughing it and need a place to refuel both yourself and your rig, Eagle Plains Hotel and RV Campground is exactly what you need. Located about halfway through the Dempster Highway, this is the perfect midway pitstop. There’s even a lovely dining room for those tired of cooking and dishes. 

Eagle Plains Hotel and RV Campground has electric and nonelectric sites and has potable water available. Other amenities include a laundry room, showers, gas, diesel, and propane fill-ups. They can even help you if you’ve been having tire problems or other minor repairs. While the sites themselves are not large, it does the job of providing much-needed rest and refueling. 

Explore the Dempster Highway

With so many great places in Canada to explore, it can be difficult to know where to go. But, we think a road trip on the Dempster Highway is well worth your time! The wildlife, amazing views, and history are waiting for you! Will you be adding Dempster Highway to your Canada bucket list?

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Find out more about the  current wildfire and wildfire-related concerns in the NWT.

Dempster Highway to the Arctic Ocean

Your ultimate arctic adventure begins on the fabled dempster highway..

Long ribbons of road stretch 740 kilometres from Dawson City in Yukon to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. You’ll traverse stunning landscapes through the boreal forest, crossing Canada’s largest river – the mighty Mackenzie – out on to the tundra, and onto the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk highway, ending right at the edge of the Arctic Ocean. This Canadian road trip is an epic adventure as it’s the only year round public highway that crosses the Arctic Circle and brings you to the end of the continent. It’s a rewarding journey and a spectacular experience.

On the Northwest Territories portion of the route, you’ll experience stunning scenery. See timeless landscapes while passing through picturesque communities rich with Indigenous culture such as Fort McPherson and Tsiigehtchic. Eagle Plains is the halfway point but just beyond, you’ll cross the Arctic Circle. Don’t forget to take a picture of the signpost! Some Northwest Territories’ territorial campgrounds along the Dempster are Nataiinlaii, Gwich’in, Jàk and Happy Valley, located in Inuvik, which can easily accommodate RVs. Take this one-of-a-kind journey with as many stops as you wish – there’s a lot to see.

The journey ends where the road does – Tuktoyaktuk, home of the world’s largest pingo. Seek out local Inuvialuit artists and make sure to dip your toes in the Arctic Ocean! If you love a good road trip, there is no better destination than the top of the world right here in the NWT.

14 hrs 18 min

• What to Pack
• Road Readiness
• Printable Resources

Your road trip isn’t complete without a well-packed vehicle filled with all the essentials. Don’t leave the house without bringing these essentials along:

• First Aid Kit
• Roadside emergency kit
• Spare tires
• Jerry can filled with gas
• Food & water
• A paper map
• Bugspray and Bearspray

The Dempster Highway is a well-maintained, all-season road but when travelling by vehicle in any season, it’s important to stay safe and always be prepared.

Before you hit the road, make sure your vehicle is dependable and well maintained. Don’t forget to have a roadside emergency kit such as a flashlight, spare tires, food and water, batteries, first aid kit, and an extra jerry can filled with gas.

When you’re out on the road be aware of changing conditions and drive with caution. For reliable driving weather the best time to drive is June through September, when the days are long and warm. During spring breakup and fall freeze-up, the rivers are impassible. You’ll also want to check the GNWT Department of Transportation https://www.inf.gov.nt.ca/en/transportation for opening and closing dates of the ferries and ice bridges so that you can time your trip.

The speed limit is 70 kilometres per hour on much of the route but choose your speed according to road conditions and watch for wildlife. Occasionally you’ll share the road with a Caribou or fox. If the animal is blocking the road, remain in your vehicle.

Along the route there are few gas stations. You’ll want to purchase gas in Fort McPherson or at the halfway point in Eagle Plains. There’s also a hotel and RV campground in Eagle Plains, if you need to rest. Gasoline, diesel, and propane services are available at Fort McPherson, Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk (no propane in Tuk) in the NWT and Eagle Plains in the Yukon.

For updated road conditions and warnings, check the Highway Conditions Website  or call 1-800-661-0750. Be sure to also check in with the visitors centres in Dawson City or Inuvik for the latest road condition updates.

Between communities in the North, there are long stretches where cell reception is not reliable. Make sure your service provider has coverage in the North, and phone ahead to the communities you are travelling to so people can know when to expect your arrival.

Getting there is half the fun! Plan out your route with these printable resources.

• Western Arctic - 10 things you must do
• From the Arctic Circle to the Arctic Ocean
• 5 things you need to do in the Western Arctic

16 Things to Know BEFORE Traveling Dempster Highway

Last Updated on June 10, 2020 by Christine Kaaloa

Constructed in 2017, traveling Dempster Highway is a 734 kilometer all-weather road between Dawson City and it further connects Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk  via  an all-year road. It is the first road to connect Canada to the Arctic Ocean. Here’s 16 things to know before traveling Dempster Highway.

Alternatively, referred to as the   Northwest Territories Highway 8 and Yukon Highway 5 , the highway is also the new lifeline connecting Arctic communities such as Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk, offering the locals better access to better resources and potentially new employment. The highway still presents a long, remote and challenging 16 hour journey for those who undertake it.

Starting from the Klondike Highway outside of Dawson City, it travels up to the McKenzie Delta and the Northwestern Territories.  We were traveling Dempster Highway during a wintery December. Riddled with snow and blizzard conditions, the challenge of traveling the Dempster had slightly different challenges than traveling it during other seasons. We started from Dawson City with our final goal being Tuktoyaktuk.

Table of Contents: 16 Things to Know BEFORE Traveling Dempster Highway

• 1.1 1. Dempster Highway is an all-weather road of gravel and shale.
• 1.2 2.  Take a spare tire and know how to change it
• 1.3 3.  Do not take your new car
• 1.4 4.  Loose Rocks and your windshield
• 1.5 5. Drive slow
• 1.6 6. Consider stretching your road trip over a couple of days
• 1.7 7. Driving conditions on the Dempster Highway during the winter
• 1.8 8.  Create distance between you and the car in front of you
• 1.9 9. Bring enough food and water (and snacks)
• 1.10 10.  There is no cellphone signal. Get a satellite phone if you want to stay connected
• 1.11 11.  Fuel up before you go (and  take an extra gas can, just in case!)
• 1.12 12.  The Dempster is a home to a lot of wildlife
• 1.13 13. The Arctic Circle (Latitude 66 33 degrees North)
• 1.14 14. Eagle Plains is your half-way mark for gas, car servicing and resources
• 1.15 15.  The highway crosses two rivers:  McKenzie River and Peel River
• 1.16.1 Watch the full Arctic journey series: Fort St John to Tuktoyaktuk

16 Things to Know before traveling Dempster Highway

Note: I drove this as part of a Mazda road trip to the Arctic Ocean during early December. We were a caravan of ten cars of influencer, car journalists and we had expedition drivers accompanying us to ensure our safety. Extra provisions and communication backup was brought and thought of in the case of any roadside emergencies.

Apologies for any typos, as these are just some rough notes I wanted to share:

1. Dempster Highway is an all-weather road of gravel and shale.

Dempster Highway is a notorious for being problematic for driving, because it is not paved but made of shale. This is because the roads rest on permafrost and that can melt and shift in some spots. Thus, much of the road is unpaved. It is very possible you may  encounter problems with your tires. I’ve read many stories about flat tires.

2.  Take a spare tire and know how to change it

Given what i’ve shared about the road and its resources, taking a spare tire and knowing how to change it is essential. As the highway is made of loose shale, puncturing a tire is a probability and It can take a while before you get help. Depending upon how far you are from Eagle Plains, you would need to travel a ways to get a new tire, so it is best to just stock a spare in advance. Know how to change it also as you won’t find AAA help out there. If you get a flat, you may be waiting a while before help comes along.

3.  Do not take your new car

I have heard of travelers buying a used car to make the journey or renting a car. I would imagine car rentals for this journey to cost more than standard rental prices given the wear and tear a car will experience on this highway. Mazda brought new cars which were already getting thrashed on the first day leaving Fort St. John on paved and partially iced roads- mud sludge and windshield dings from loose flying rocks. Ironically, the night before we hit the Dempster, there was a snow blizzard, so the roads were powdery. This saved our tires and windshields from standard wear and tear, however, alternately we did have two cars skid off the road and get stuck in snow banks. Luckily we had a team to pull those cars out.

4.  Loose Rocks and your windshield

To continue where I left off… otherwise, expect loose rocks to hit your windshield.

It’s best to drive slow on the Dempster, especially when you’re coming up on oncoming cars or large trucks. Each of the ten expedition vehicles we took on this trip, got a fair share of dings just from regular roads (some looked like bullet hole-sized dents!) . This created eventual dings which over time would only grow into cracks in the windshields. If you collect enough of them, you could be looking at replacing your windshield at the end of the trip.

5. Drive slow

The speed limit on the Dempster is 90km/hour. I would not drive that fast given the conditions. If not for the gravel, snow (if you’re driving during winter) or loose gravel biting your windshield,  I’d say go slow and take your time if you want your car to be in decent condition at the end.

6. Consider stretching your road trip over a couple of days

We had a tight timeline so we pressed on through the driving, but otherwise, the Dempster can be a place to enjoy. During warmer times there’s scenic beauty and you’ll probably want to enjoy the landscape rather than rush through it. The Dempster Highway website recommends stretching your road trip out to a two day trip vs one.  Here is a possible itinerary .

7. Driving conditions on the Dempster Highway during the winter

Winter can offer potentially easier or harder conditions for travel, depending upon your resources and number of travelers. We drove the Dempster Highway during winter and were assured that the road conditions and snow probably helped the tires a bit despite creating potentially slippery conditions, open to skidding.

If you asked our expedition drivers, they said the winter conditions made for easier driving, as the roads are covered in snow; thus, not as much loose gravel to potentially harm tires or hit windshields. Cons are that roads may be slippery and tricky due to snow and ice. If you skid, you may land in a deep snow bank and it would take considerable time for someone to find you to pull you out. Also, due to occasional blizzard conditions, the government may close roads close and you can get held up at Dawson City or Eagle Plains ( your more expensive option – there is a hotel but it is an outpost with limited resources).   

However, if you ever got stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery or something, winter is the last time of the year I’d want to be waiting for help to come by.

8.  Create distance between you and the car in front of you

Although it’s highly unlikely you’ll find many folks out on the Dempster, if you ever did find yourself tailgating another car, pull off and give them space.  If in winter, the snow kicks up and creates a dust cloud which impedes visibility- day and night. Even if it’s not wintery conditions, there’s loose gravel kicking up… remember?

9. Bring enough food and water (and snacks)

Driving the Dempster Highway is approximately a 16 hour journey, with the half point mark being Eagle Plains. Bring enough food and water to tide you over. Although, have reserves in the case anything happens to your car and you need to wait for roadside help.

10.  There is no cellphone signal. Get a satellite phone if you want to stay connected

You will not have a cellphone signal on the Dempster Highway so if you encounter any car problems, you cannot call for emergency help. Getting a satellite phone as a backup connection to emergency or city numbers is your only solution. Also, if you want to listen to music for your drive, be sure to download your favorite road trip music playlist for the drive. Our cars had satellite reception so we had music from satellite radio stations and we had a GPS (those are handy!)

11.  Fuel up before you go (and  take an extra gas can, just in case!)

Once you are on the highway, your next and last service station is at Eagle Plains, the half-way mark of the Dempster . Start on a full tank and take an extra gas can for emergencies.

12.  The Dempster is a home to a lot of wildlife

Apparently during warmer seasons, some folks will supposedly camp or hike along the Dempster. The Dempster is home to wildlife like caribou, moose, grizzly and black bears, foxes. Research how to handle wildlife encounters in this area in order to keep safe and please be responsible and  do not feed or antagonize the roadside wildlife .  Read about Bear encounters . Also for tourist information in this area or the Northwestern Territories, check out the tourism board website .

13. The Arctic Circle (Latitude 66 33 degrees North)

Traveling along the Dempster Highway, you will cross the Arctic Circle and if you stop over you can take a photo with the sign. There is almost nothing around it but it’s still a goal.

14. Eagle Plains is your half-way mark for gas, car servicing and resources

Once you are on the highway, the half way mark and last service station is Eagle Plains, at a high elevation of 2,360 ft, it rests between the Ogilvie and Richardson Mountains . There is a service station (road service, truck towing, fuel, etc..), hotel (ph:  (867) 993-2453,  http://eagleplainshotel.ca/ ), showers, laundry and rest stop there. During winter, they act as a safety guardian to the highway. If a snowstorm is predicted, they will close the gate to the highway and you will be forced to stay until the highway opens again.  Map here: https://www.yukoninfo.com/region/eagle-plains/# Keep in mind, this is an outpost and not a city or town, so it has basic necessities to complete your journey.

15.  The highway crosses two rivers:  McKenzie River and Peel River

The highway crosses to major rivers- the McKenzie and Peel Rivers and this may entail anything from a ferry crossing or ice river crossing. During non-winter months, cars must use a ferry boat crossing.  During winter, the rivers freeze over, creating a bridge crossing. The territory puts up signs when the river ice passes safety standards and is thick enough for cars to pass over it.

Technically, a lake has to be at least 8 inches deep to support an automobile. As ice roads are a commonplace road way to this territory, regulations will be according to safety standards.

16.  It crosses the Continental Divide and time zones change by an hour

The constant changing back and forth of clocks threw me off. Not having mobile data plan in Canada, I could only update my time/zone clock with the hotel wifi and between my mobile phone, laptop and FitBit, I often had different times. If time is important to you, schedule a hotel wakeup call and make sure your room clock is working.

For example, from Vancouver:

Fort St. John +1 hour

Dawson City -1 hour

Inuvik +1 hour

You need to cross two rivers- the Peel and Mc Kenzie River before getting to Inuvik. Aside from winter, there are free ferries for crossing the rivers. During winter, they freeze over. Check the signs to see if they are safe for crossing. There will be a sign.

Recommend more things to know before traveling Dempster Highway. Leave comments below.

Watch the full arctic journey series: fort st john to tuktoyaktuk.

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The Dempster Highway: alone with the road

Oct 18, 2019 • 6 min read

Few people get to see the remarkable, unique features of the harsh northern landscape around the Dempster Highway up close. © Murphy_Shewchuk / Getty Images

I pause at the deserted gas station at the turnoff from the Klondike Highway onto the Dempster and check my gas tank for the umpteenth time. I’ve been up since dawn in preparation for my journey and am in no doubt about the seriousness of my undertaking. It’s a long and lonely ride to the next pit stop and I’m very much on my own.

I’m no stranger to driving challenging roads. I cut my teeth on Chile’s Carretera Austral when the legendary highway was more pothole than road and drove it in an ancient little Skoda – and even so, the Dempster gives me pause. Before I trade the bitumen of the Klondike Highway for the gravel and shale of the Dempster and point my SUV northwards, I can’t help but recall a line from a Mary Chapin Carpenter Song: “Now it’s too late for turning back/I pray for the heart and the nerve...”

Canada ’s legendary highway ribbons its solitary way for some 764km from near the Klondike Gold Rush settlement of Dawson City in the Yukon to Inuvik, the northernmost town in the Northwest Territories . It’s the only highway in Canada to cross the Arctic Circle and, as of 2019, it’s the only road that allows you to drive from mainland Canada, all the way to the shores of the Arctic Ocean. It bisects swathes of virgin spruce forest – and cuts across vast empty spaces of undulating tundra. There are no settlements along the way until you reach the mighty Peel River and the small Gwich’in town of Fort McPherson, some 555 km into the journey, and little signs of human life until you hit Eagle Plains, a motel/gas station combo at Km365, roughly halfway to Inuvik, where I plan to break for lunch.

Related coverage: Never mind the hypothermia – easy winter adventures in the Yukon

Hours fly by in a meditative blur of green spruce that flanks the road on both sides, as I revel in the silence and stillness of the land around me, punctuated only by the gravel flying from beneath my tires. I begin to believe that the challenges of the Dempster have been vastly exaggerated until a sharp beeping from the console shocks me out of my state of complacency. Car rental companies in Whitehorse will only allow 4WD vehicles on the Dempster and my souped-up SUV comes with rudimentary tools in case of (likely) breakdown. Back in the day, the Dempster was covered solely in tire-shredding shale, and drivers brought two spare tires with them. I’ve taken a chance by carrying just one spare tire, and though I theoretically know how to change one, I’d rather not turn my back on the forest due to wildlife concerns. So far I’ve only caught a glimpse of five denizens of the woods – a black mama bear and her three cubs crossing the road some distance away, and a shy wolverine, but this is grizzly bear country as well.

I coast on a near-flat the last 25 kilometers to Eagle Plains, where the mechanic fixes my car and refuels it. There are three RVs parked outside the lonely motel, plus a pair of dusty cyclists adjusting the panniers on their bicycles ­– the most traffic I’ve seen so far today. One of the most daunting (and exhilarating) aspects of driving the Dempster is the near-isolation; even during the height of summer, you’re unlikely to see more than a dozen motorists during your entire journey and there is no phone signal en route. The hubbub and the exchanged greetings inside the busy diner is a welcome culture shock after hours spent in silence and solitude.

The weather turns as I pull away from Eagle Plains. The Dempster is open pretty much year-round, barring the freezing (Nov-Dec) and the thawing (Mar-Apr) of the Peel and the Mackenzie rivers, and the advantages of travel in winter include a lack of mosquitoes, and often-visible northern lights (but also the chance of freezing if you break down). I’m travelling at the most popular time of year (summer – as opposed to the October to March winter), when there are more fellow motorists to rely on, but the weather is unpredictable at best. Torrential rain turns the unpaved road into a mudslide and it’s all I can do to keep my car steady as it attempts to glide off the side of the road.

It’s wondrous to watch the changes in the landscape beyond the Arctic Circle. Dense spruce forest gives way to dwarf trees and then the land opens up, suddenly and dramatically, with rolling tundra stretching to the horizon and bare, snow-tipped hills soaring to one side. Then fog descends without warning, and for a short while, I can barely see a few meters in front of me and slow down to a crawl. Out here, you’re very much at the mercy of the elements.

A few more hours and two car ferries later, I finally make it to Inuvik, twelve hours after I’d started out and shaking with exertion.

Days later, I’m retracing my steps, having enjoyed the small-town hospitality of this remote northern town and having driven the new highway that connects Inuvik to the tiny Inuit settlement of Tuktoyaktuk, on the banks of the Arctic Ocean. Three years prior, I’d flown over the tundra, the myriad ice-melt lakes and pingos (permafrost hillocks). So few people get to see these remarkable, unique features of this harsh northern landscape up close; I’m truly one of the lucky ones.

In Fort McPherson, I’m turned away from the car ferry landing. “The water levels are too high.” Ferry service may resume the following day, or not. I’m hugely glad that I allowed myself a couple of extra days for the drive back, but it’ll be tight to make my flight out of Whitehorse. I spend the night in Fort McPherson’s only motel, waiting for word about the ferry. Serendipitously, the delay coincides with the July 1 Canada Day celebrations; locals invite me to join their merry cookout outside the community center, while a Gwich’in teenager paints a maple leaf on my cheek.

Luckily, I’m able to leave the following day, and a reverse blur of tundra, snowy hills, glacial rivers and endless spruce forest follows. I stop to stretch my legs at the entrance to Tombstone Territorial Park , some 70km from the southern end of the Dempster and gaze wistfully at the mountain peaks in the distance, making a silent vow to return one day and camp among its harsh peaks and valleys.

As I near the junction with the Klondike Highway, I smell gasoline and my fuel tank dramatically empties within seconds. Somehow I’ve managed to puncture it on the very last stretch. But luck is with me, just as it has been my entire trip; I’m promptly rescued by a kindly local and given a ride onwards to Dawson City – a fitting end to a dramatic journey that exceeded every expectation.

Produced by Lonely Planet for Travel Yukon. All editorial views are those of Lonely Planet alone and reflect our policy of editorial independence and impartiality.

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Dempster Highway

• 1.1 History
• 1.2 Climate
• 3.1 Current conditions
• 4.1 Distances
• 6.1 Remoteness
• 6.2 Road safety
• 6.4 Weather hazards
• 6.5 Animal life

The Dempster Highway (known as Yukon Highway 5 and Northwest Territories Highway 8 in those territories respectively) is a highway through the sub-Arctic wilderness of northern Yukon Territory and extreme northwestern Northwest Territories (NWT) in Canada . The highway runs 671 km (417 mi) from the Klondike Highway near Dawson City to the Indigenous settlement of Inuvik . A 137-km (85-mi), all-season extension to Tuktoyaktuk opened in November 2017, although the extension does not seem to be considered part of the Dempster Highway, instead being referred to as the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway .

The Dempster is one of just two roads in North America contiguous with the majority of the North American road network to cross the Arctic Circle. Although considerably less travelled than its American twin, Alaska 's Dalton Highway , the road offers much similar scenery.

The Dempster Highway — Canada’s only all-weather road to cross the Arctic Circle — was officially opened on 18 August 1979, at Flat Creek, Yukon. It was unveiled as a two-lane, gravel-surfaced, all-weather highway that ran 736 km (457 mi) from the Klondike Highway near Dawson City to Fort McPherson and Arctic Red River (now Tsiigehtchic) in the Northwest Territories. The Canadian Forces 1 Combat Engineer Regiment from Chilliwack, British Columbia, built the two major bridges over the Ogilvie and Eagle rivers. Ferries handle the traffic at the Peel River crossing near Fort McPherson and the Arctic Red River crossing near Tsiigehtchic.

The design of the highway is unique, primarily due to the intense physical conditions it is put through. The highway itself sits on top of a gravel berm to insulate the permafrost in the soil underneath. The thickness of the gravel pad ranges from 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) up to 2.4 m (7 ft 10 in) in some places. Without the pad, the permafrost would thaw and the road would sink into the ground.

In addition to services in Fort McPherson, Tsiigehtchic and Inuvik, there is one location with commercial services along the highway, at Eagle Plains. It is an important fuel and food stop because of the great distance, and harbours stranded travellers when the highway is closed due to extreme weather conditions. (Until 1979, the highway was only open in the short summer.)

During the early 1990s, Northwestel erected microwave towers along the highway to facilitate public safety with manual mobile telephone service and to provide government agencies such as highway maintenance and the Royal Canadian Mounted Police with communications.

Much of the highway follows an old dog sled trail. The highway is named after Royal Canadian Mounted Police Inspector William John Duncan Dempster, who, as a young constable, frequently ran the dog sled trail from Dawson City to Fort McPherson NWT. Inspector Dempster and two other constables were sent out on a rescue patrol in March 1911, to find Inspector Francis Joseph Fitzgerald and his men of three who never made it to Dawson City. They had become lost on the trail, and subsequently died of exposure and starvation. Dempster and his men found the bodies on March 22, 1911.

In 1958 the Canadian government made the historic decision to build a 671-km (417-mi) road through the Arctic wilderness from Dawson City to Inuvik. Oil and gas exploration was booming in the Mackenzie Delta and the town of Inuvik was under construction. The road was billed as the first-ever overland supply link to southern Canada, where business and political circles buzzed with talk of an oil pipeline that would run parallel to the road. The two would connect with another proposed pipeline along the Alaska Highway.

For years, an annual ice road connected Inuvik north to Tuktoyaktuk during the winter months, crossing several frozen rivers and even part of the frozen Arctic Ocean that extended to depths of 3,000 ft (1,000 m) below sea level. Construction on a 137 km (85 mi), year-round highway to Tuktoyaktuk at a cost of C$229 million began in 2014. The ice road closed permanently on April 30, 2017 at the end of the 2016-2017 season and the new Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway opened in November 2017.

The Dempster Highway turn off is on Yukon Highway 2 and is approximately 40 km (25 mi) east of Dawson City . It is strongly suggested to fill up your tank either at the Klondike River Lodge at the turn off or in Dawson City as there are no services until Eagle Plains 365 km (227 mi) away!

See also: Tips for road trips and Winter driving .

The Dempster Highway has very few services and shops along its length and those services and goods which are available are quite expensive. Therefore, travellers are advised to have basic survival supplies, car repair equipment, and equipment for camping and other activities:

• Cash and/or major credit cards (i.e. Visa or MasterCard). No services accept debit cards and there is only one ATM in Inuvik (a CIBC bank machine).
• Spare tires (full-size, preferably on/with another rim) and basic car repair tools.
• Kits used to repair windshield chipping can be especially valuable in preventing chips from turning into full-fledged cracked windshields.
• Windshield cleaning fluid (you will need to clean your windshield many times from the dust trucks create)
• Road flares (trucks can't stop quickly and there are numerous blind corners and crests)
• Protection against the elements (warm clothes, rain jackets, blankets, etc.)
• Spare fuel (at minimum a 20- to 40-L container (5 to 10 gallons))
• Potable water
• Garbage/rubbish bags
• Toilet paper, hand sanitizer or soap and water
• Insect repellent and/or mosquito netting
• Optional: Camping equipment, stove and pots (to cook food and boil stream water or snow), canoes/kayaks/rafts, rifle (for hunting or bear protection), and for hiking: a backpack, hiking pole, bear repellent spray, knee-high waterproof boots (for marshes) and snow shoes (winter).

If approaching the highway from Dawson City, it is advisable to stop in at the North West Territories Visitor Information Centre. It will have as up-to-date information as possible on the highway including conditions of the road, weather and any other notices. There is a log book that drivers write in which describes road conditions and recent first-hand experiences can be read there.

Current conditions

The Dempster Highway is 736 km (457 mi) long from Dawson City to its original terminus at Inuvik . (By ice road, Tuktoyaktuk was 144 km (89 mi) further north.) Kilometre distances here are approximate and start from the junction of the Klondike Highway (Hwy 2).

• Photography
• Just pull off the road at least 10 m (30 ft) and set up camp. See also: Car camping .
• If leaving the highway for an extended hike, a GPS device is helpful. Declination can be 27º or more in this region.
• Be careful to avoid bears.
• If bringing a GPS, recommended for long hikes, the declination at this latitude is great.
• Kayaking , rafting, & canoeing : There are several possible river trips along the Dempster.
• Cross country skiing is available in most months outside July. Bring your own skis, as there is nowhere to rent skis along the highway.
• The region is extremely remote. You should bring appropriate maps or a GPS device when doing so. Remember declination can be 27° or more, so recalibrate your device before leaving the highway.

Due to the scarcity of services, you will need a certain degree of self-sufficiency while travelling along the highway on your own. Therefore, you are advised to bring what is listed in the Prepare section .

Road safety

A wide variety of different road surfaces will be encountered by travelers on the Dempster. This surface is gravel or dirt and is littered with a landscape of craters and potholes that will often slow your pace down to 20 km/h (12 mph), or destroy your suspension. Be constantly on the lookout for massive potholes on any part of the road. These will sneak up on you suddenly after a comfortable few miles.

Should you find yourself gravely ill, a medical evacuation is very expensive and can be difficult or impossible during severe winter weather.

If you collect water from streams, be sure to boil it as giardia is common in streams and very contagious.

Weather hazards

Weather is an important factor to add into Dempster Highway trip calculations. Remember, this is the Arctic! During the summer it is very possible to encounter snow. Drive with extreme caution. The gravel can be very slippery, especially in rain or snow. During the winter, the area can encounter temperatures below -50 °C (-60 °F) (which is cold enough to freeze your brake fluid!). Such temperatures are fatal and thus winter travel is highly discouraged.

Be prepared in summertime for the possibility of forest fires shutting down the highway. Delays of a day or two are possible.

Animal life

The Dempster Highway passes through territory of the fearsome grizzly bear . While black bear and brown bear attacks are most often defensive, the grizzly bear is larger and its attacks often occur when the animal is surprised. Bear repellent spray (a very strong pepper spray/mace) is considerably safer than carrying a rifle. See this article for comprehensive information on bear safety. In the winter, polar bears can roam the region near Inuvik. You cannot learn enough about bear safety in this region.

You may also encounter wolves and foxes in this region. Moose can be dangerous if threatened. They weigh, on average, 640 kg (1,400 lb) and have 2-m (6-ft) wide antlers. Being mauled or stepped on by a moose can be lethal or leave you seriously injured in a region where medical services are distant and take hours for you to be treated. Animal life along the Dempster is great, but enjoy them at a distance.

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Adventurer, Photographer & Blogger

• TRAVEL GUIDE

Driving The Dempster Highway: A Canadian Travel Guide For RVers

• RV-VAN LIFE

Driving the Dempster Hwy

Driving The Dempster Highway is a road that cuts through the Northwest Territories of Canada and opens up this incredible part of the world for us to experience. This highway is one of the world’s most spectacular road trips and yet, many people have never heard of it.

Table of Contents

Driving the Dempster: A Journey of a Lifetime

The Dempster Highway is a remote highway in the Northwest Territories of Canada that was originally built to service mining and oil exploration. As years went by, it continued to serve as an important transportation route for locals and tourists alike who enjoyed exploring its scenery from their motorhomes or RVs. It’s no wonder then why so many RVers have made this journey over the years.

The highway was completed in 1957 and named for Hudson’s Bay Company trader and explorer Donald A. “Dan” Dempster. The highway crosses several mountain ranges, including the Richardson Mountains and Ogilvie Mountains, and many rivers, including the Peel River and the Mackenzie River. The Dempster Highway connects Dawson City in Yukon with Inuvik in the Northwest Territories and passes through a variety of landscapes. It might not be everyone’s idea of a perfect vacation, but for those who are brave enough to take it on, the Dempster Highway is an unforgettable experience.

The highway is the only road that links the rest of Canada with this northernmost point of North America. It’s a beautiful drive, past the Arctic Circle and all sorts of magnificent scenery, and finally linking up with the Inuvik-to-Tuktoyaktuk-Highway, which takes you all the way to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean.

History of the Dempster Highway

The Dempster Highway has a fascinating history. However, its history is quite short, only dating back to the late 1950s when it was first built.

The Dempster Highway is a highway in Canada that connects the Southern Yukon with Inuvik, the Mackenzie Delta and communities in the Northwest Territories. The highway crosses land and territories with no sign of human presence; no side roads, houses or power lines. It is considered one of Canada’s most remote highways, connecting two major provinces and two big territories: Alberta and British Columbia to the north, and Yukon Territory to the south. In total, the highway spans 742 km/461 miles.

The Dempster Highway was constructed between 1969 and 1975 and has been nicknamed “the world’s longest dirt road”. The surface of the highway is gravel, which helps to prevent the permafrost from melting. Furthermore, the highway crosses through three different Canadian territories before reaching Inuvik.

Geography of the Dempster Highway

The highway begins its journey in Dawson City, Yukon, and winds through the mountains before descending on a plain and heading for the Blackstone and Ogilvie Mountains. This road is unique due to its geography, with sections of the drive winding through the mountains, following creeks and rivers, and crossing long flat plains.

Driving The Dempster Highway

Before embarking on the journey, make sure you are fully aware of what you are getting yourself into. The Dempster Highway is an amazing road that winds through some of the most beautiful mountain and tundra scenery in Canada. The highway crosses several mountain ranges, including the Richardson Mountains and Ogilvie Mountains, and numerous rivers, including the Peel River and the Mackenzie River. It’s not a good fit for inexperienced city drivers who may not be used to handling such challenging terrain. Make sure to do your research and plan accordingly.

There are three layers of different types of soil that make up the highway: clay, shale, and sandstone. The first layer is made of clay, which is very dense and sticky when wet. The second layer is made of shale, which is less dense than the first layer but more porous than the third layer. The third layer is made of sandstone, which is only found in the lowest parts of valleys.

The highway is not without its challenges, though. The route is bumpy and narrow-the only set of lights you’ll see at night are located at a few country houses. But for all its challenges, it’s still a beautiful road If you’re looking for an adventure, this is the place to go.

The service stations are at Eagle Plains, Fort McPherson, and Inuvik, respectively (distance from Dempster Junction). For the majority of its length, the Dempster Highway crosses land and territories with no sign of human presence.

When Is the Best Time to Drive the Dempster Highway?

The best time to drive it is from June to September, when the weather is mild and there are still plenty of daylight hours. Fall colors make it a particularly popular time to visit this remote highway, but if you’re interested in seeing them at their peak, then you will need to plan your trip for late August or early September.

The Dempster Highway is an all-weather road that stretches from Dawson City, Yukon to Inuvik, Northwest Territories. The highway typically closes for approximately 6 to 8 weeks in the fall when the Peel and Mackenzie Rivers freeze and again in the spring when they thaw. Driving the highway in the winter can be dangerous and is not recommended.

The highway can take anywhere from 5 to 8 days to drive, depending on the weather conditions and how many stops you make. However, there are tourist information centers located along the route as well as various accommodation options (such as campsites) available should you need them. So make sure you’re prepared before you hit the road and enjoy the amazing scenery while you’re at it.

Know What You’re Getting Yourself Into Before Driving the Highway

The Dempster Highway is a grueling journey from Inuvik to Norman Wells. It’s one of the most remote roads in North America and is the only road that connects Northern Canada to Alaska.

Make sure you have extra fluids, spare belts, basic tools, tow-rope, axe, knife and matches. Additionally, ensure that all of your tires are in good condition with lots of treads before embarking on the journey . This will help minimize damage to your vehicle while driving on rough terrain.

The Dempster Highway is notorious for its poor driving conditions, which can be difficult to predict due to the 24-hour daylight in the summer months. The highway is narrow and filled with potholes, making it treacherous to drive on at any time of year.

Dora’s Dempster Highway Quick Tips:

• Make sure your vehicle and tires are in good condition.
• Start your trip with a full tank of gas so you don’t run out of fuel and always carry some extra gas with you, just in case. Gas stations are available at Klondike River Lodge, Eagle Plains, Fort McPherson and Inuvik.
• You’ll want to make sure you have a full size (or two) spare and that you know how to change it yourself.
• The highway has a maximum speed limit of 90 km/h (55 mph) and has several river crossings that are closed by ice from October to May. Choose the speed according to road conditions.
• When driving the Dempster Highway, it is important to obey all posted signs. This will ensure your safety while traveling on this route. There are many sharp curves and steep drop-offs, so please drive with caution.
• The Dempster Highway is a two-lane paved road that has no shoulder and poses its own unique risks to drivers.
• When meeting vehicles, especially large trucks, be sure to slow down and pull over in order to help avoid any damage to your windshield.
• Driving the highway in the winter can be dangerous and is not recommended.
• Check weather and road closures before you go.
• Bring a first-aid kit.
• Pack plenty of food and water .

The Northwest Territories and Inuvik

Inuvik is located in the Northwest Territories and is home to a growing population of over 3,000 people. The new highway starts at Inuvik and crosses the Peel River, Mackenzie River using a combination of seasonal ferry service and ice bridges. This new route provides travelers with an additional 147km (91 miles) on NWT Highway 10 to Tuktoyaktuk from Dempster’s original terminus in Inuvik—meaning that visitors can now drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk on one road. The journey from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk is approximately 2 hours.

Inuvik is also the gateway to the Arctic and has become a popular tourist destination. The Inuvik Region is located in the Northwest Territories and is home to some of the most beautiful landscapes in North America. Visitors can enjoy hiking, fishing, kayaking, and dog sledding in this unique part of the world.

Bring Food and Water

There is no food or water available until Eagle Plains on the Dempster Highway. This means that if you are traveling in an RV, you will need to stock up on groceries and water before you leave Dawson City. (We recommend the AQUATANK-2 .)

When traveling in Canada, it is important to be aware of the drinking water advisories. Many areas have non-commercial water sources that should be boiled or treated before drinking. It is also important to check with local authorities before consuming any water, as advisories can change quickly.

Make Sure You Have Adequate Supplies when Driving on The Dempster Highway

Be sure to pack appropriately for the Dempster Highway. Driving on it can be awesome, but don’t forget to prepare for the drastic temperature changes from morning to night.

Make sure you have adequate supplies, including mosquito head nets and bug repellent spray . Trust me, you’ll thank me for this one on those windless days in early summer when the mosquitoes are out in full force.

A Portable Tire Air Compressor can be a lifesaver if you find that your spare tire is slightly deflated, and a Tire Repair Kit can be helpful for small punctures while driving.

The Milepost Travel Planner is an excellent resource for outlining what you’ll need, with a mile-by-mile account of the highway and every other major highway in Alaska and Yukon.

When driving in bear country, the safety of yourself and the bears needs to be at the forefront of your mind. Bear spray is a great way to keep yourself safe in the event that you encounter a bear. But, it is important not to rely too heavily on it and to practise proper Bear Avoidance Techniques .

Final Thoughts

There is no one answer to the question of what is the best way to see Canada. It really depends on what you want to see and do.

If you’re looking for an adventure, explore the vast wilderness by canoe, kayak, or raft.

Or go camping, fishing or hiking in some of the most beautiful landscapes on Earth.

If you’re more interested in history and culture, visit one of the many museums or cultural centers, or meet some locals and learn about their way of life.

So take your time and enjoy the journey—you won’t regret it!

Happy Trails,

We DROVE to the ARCTIC OCEAN! (Driving the Dempster Highway to Tuktoyaktuk in Canada)

Watch on YouTube | Adventures of A+K

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Must-see stops on Dempster Highway

Dempster Highway meanders through 456 miles (734 km) through Yukon and Northwest Territories. What are must-see stops on Dempster Highway? What are the highlights of Dempster Highway? And what to do during this scenic but challenging road trip? Check our tips!

Must-see stops on Dempster Highway – Our Experiences

In the article Dempster Highway Comprehensive Guide , we provided many valuable tips on how to prepare your Dempster Highway road trip to safely travel 543 miles (874 kilometers) to the Arctic Ocean.

We have done this thrilling drive ourselves, been to each of the described places, and shared our experiences, observations, and tips. Chris and I made this trip in our camper truck during an almost one-year journey through North America.

In this article, we’ll introduce you to the most beautiful, meaningful, and exciting places on the route that are worth stopping at. We present you with our list of must-see stops on Dempster Highway. We share with you the best highlights on Dempster Highway. We tell you the best things to do while traveling the Dempster Highway.

Dempster Corner – Mi 0 / Km 0

Here you start your adventure on a gravel road. 25 miles / 40 km southwest of Dawson City is a junction of Klondike Highway and Dempster Highway. Here you will find a gas station. The next gas station is at Eagle Plains, 229 miles (369 km) from here. As soon as you reach the beginning of Dempster, you will find Dempster Highway Getaway Interpretive Display – check them as they have some exciting information.

Tombstone Territorial Park – Mi 44.5 / Km 71.5

Tombstone Territorial Park is a popular destination for hiking, car camping, backcountry camping, and wildlife viewing. It’s only 1.5 hours driving from Dawson City, so it’s a perfect a-day trip idea. The 2,200-square-kilometre Tombstone Territorial Park protects a unique wilderness of rugged peaks, permafrost soils, and abundant wildlife reflected in a rich First Nations culture.

The Dempster Highway cuts through the park, providing opportunities to view breathtaking Arctic tundra landscapes.

Visit the Tombstone Interpretive Center which is open from mid-May until mid-September. You need a permit for some activities in the park so check the official website to get one. For backcountry camping Bear-resistant canisters are mandatory.

TRIP TIP: If you like driving into the wilderness and plan to reach the Arctic Ocean in the USA, you can also check out our guide to the Dalton Highway in Alaska . It’s 414 miles one way, incredibly scenic, and a challenging route that takes you almost to the Arctic Ocean.

Hiking trails that are accessible from the Dempster Highway: Grizzly Creek to Mount Monolith Lookout, Beaver Pond Interpretive Trail, Edge of the Arctic Interpretive Loop, North Klondike River Trail, and Goldensides Mountain. Remember that this area has a large grizzly bear population. Pack Bear Spray and Bear Bells if you plan hiking in the Dempster Highway area.

There is also a campground (Tombstone Territorial Park Yukon Government Campground) with 51 sites, a shelter, fireplace, pit toilets and water from the river, and picnic tables. Remember to pack the water treatment tablets .

Tombstone Range Viewpoint – Mi 46 / Km 74

This is an excellent place for a shortstop, bone stretching, and picture taking as it has a nice view of the North Fork Pass and river. Camping is not allowed at this spot. It’s a must-see stop when driving the Dempster Highway.

North Fork Pass Summit – Mi 49.3 / Km 79.3

It is the highest point on the Dempster Highway, at an elevation of 4,593 feet (1,400 m).

Two Moose Lake – Mi 63.7 / Km 102.5

There is a viewing platform from which you have a chance to encounter moose with a bit of luck. It is also an excellent bird-watching place: American wigeon, Northern pintail, ducks.

Chapman Lake – Mi 72.1 / Km 116

It is one of the lakes near the highway. The lake is named for Ernest Chapman, a local trader, trapper, and prospector. The lake is large enough to permit floatplane operations. Loons nest on the island. The porcupine caribou herd sometimes crosses the highway in this area.

Windy Pass Summit – Mi 95.2 / Km 153

At this point, at an elevation of 3,478 feet (1,060 m), you will turn at Windy Pass Summit. Here begin the Northern Ogilvie Mountains, which are rounder and more sparsely vegetated than the mountains to the south. The dolomite cliffs eroded by wind and weather and the rocky scree slopes of this range are nicknamed the Limestone Hills.

Engineer Creek – Mi 100.1 / Km 161

Engineer Creek is a tributary of the Ogilvie River. Its first name was Big Creek, but it was renamed in 1971 to commemorate the Department of Public Works engineers who worked on the Dempster Highway. Iron oxide, limestone, gypsum, salt, and sulfide-bearing sediments dissolve in the rainwater, turning the creek and soil red and orange-brown. The distinctive smell comes from the nearby sulfur springs. Don’t drink the water from the creek.

Engineer Creek Yukon Government Campground – Mi 120.4 / Km 193.8

It’s a campground with 11 sites, where you can stay for a night. But it’s open only from June through September. Be sure to bring mosquito repellent , a mosquito hat , and mosquito nets , as mosquitoes are annoying on Dempster Highway.

Eagle Plains – must-see stop on Dempster Highway – Mi 229.3 / Km 369

It is one of the most important places on the route. First of all, you have a gas station here, be sure to refuel. You will also find a hotel and campground. You can ask for the weather forecast, eat something, and rest. Eagle Plains Hotel is an oasis in the wilderness. It’s located midway on the Dempster and is open year-round. It was built in 1978 just before the completion of the Dempster Highway.

Arctic Circle Crossing – must-see stop on Dempster Highway – Mi 252 / Km 405.5

It is one of the most important highlights on the Dempster Highway, as it’s the only road in Canada that takes you across the Arctic Circle at mile 252 (km 405.5). For many, it is an end in itself. Some tourists take pictures of crossing the Arctic Circle, rest by this sign, and come back to civilization.

At latitude N 66°33′ north of the Equator is located Arctic Circle Crossing. It divides the earth’s Arctic area from the rest of the globe. On June 21, the sun does not dip below the horizon at this latitude for six weeks. It marks the southernmost latitude where the sun can stay continuously below or above the horizon for 24 hours – these phenomena are known as the Midnight Sun in the summer and the Polar Night in the winter.

It is a must-see stop on Dempster Highway. You will find information boards, picnic tables, and breathtaking views here. You will also see a significant difference in vegetation. At this latitude, it will already be dwarf vegetation. There will be few trees or shrubs.

The highway crosses the Arctic tundra on an elevated berm next to the Richardson Mountains, which reach almost the Arctic Ocean. The Richardson Mountains were named for Sir John Richardson, the surgeon, and naturalist on Sir John Franklin’s overland expeditions to the Arctic Ocean.

YT-NWT Border Mi 288.9 / Km 464.4

The border between the Yukon and the Northwest Territories is essential for one reason – the time zone is changing here. So remember to synchronize the watches. Yukon observes Pacific standard time while Northwest Territories is on Mountain time.

The highway crosses Wright Pass and the Continental Divide in the Richardson Mountains. West of here the water flows into the Pacific Ocean. East of here, the water flows into the Arctic Ocean. We have seen many grizzly bears in this area.

Peel River Crossing – Mi 334.9 / Km 539

This is a must-stop on Dempster for the simple reason – you have to take the ferry to the other side. The ferry is on-demand. It’s free. The crossing distance is 600 meters. Hours of operation 9:15 a.m. – 12:45 p.m. It’s usually open from June 2 to November 8.

Fort McPherson – must-see stop on Dempster Highway – Mi 341.9/ Km 550.2

Fort McPherson is located on the east bank of the Peel River. It’s the first NWT community you will encounter driving on the Dempster Highway. The name in Gwich’in: Teetł’it Zheh means at the head of the waters. It is a hamlet in the Inuvik region.

The First Nations people who make up the majority are Gwich’in (Teetł’it Gwich’in), and the two main languages spoken are Gwich’in and English. Originally a Hudson’s Bay Company post station. The community was named in 1848 for Murdoch McPherson, a chief trader. You will find here a gas station (gas/diesel) and general store.

Mackenzie River Crossing – Mi 377.4 / Km 607.3

This ferry crossing is usually open from June to late October. Hours of operation 8:15 a.m. – 11:45 p.m.

Tsiigehtchic – Mi 377.4 / Km 607.3

Tsiigehtchic (“mouth of the iron river”) is a Gwich’in First Nation community located at the confluence of the Mackenzie and the Arctic Red Rivers. The community was formerly known as the Arctic Red River. You can get there by ferry or take a short walk along the beach to take some pictures of the hills.

Tithequehchii Vitail Lookout – Mi 433.2 / Km 697.2

It is a great vantage point along the way. A 10-minute, easy trail will take you to the Campbell Lake viewing platform.

Ehjuu Njik Territorial Day-Use Area – Mi 440.5 / Km 708.9

You will find here picnic tables, pit toilets, and firepits. It’s a nice spot if you want to rest for a while.

Nihtak Territorial Day-Use Area – Mi 442.4 / Km 711.9

It’s another picnic spot in the area.

Jak Territorial Park – Mi 453.8 / Km 730.3

Jàk means berry in the language of the local indigenous people, Gwich’in. There is a lookout tower in this park where you can get a great view of the surrounding countryside and do some bird watching. Look out for hawks, eagles, and ducks, our summer residents.

There are 11 powered campsites and 25 non-powered campsites at the park. Book your campsite earlier.

Inuvik – must-see stop on Dempster Highway – Mi 456.1 / Km 734

Here you are! At the end of the Dempster Highway! Inuvik is where the Dempster Highway officially ends and the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway (“Road to Tuk”), which was put into service in 2017, begins. Via this route, you can reach the Beaufort Sea and the Arctic Ocean. It’s about 2 -3 hours of driving. It’s a 140 km (87 mi) route between the towns.

Inuvik is the largest town on the Dempster Highway with a population of 3,430. Here you will find a Western Arctic Regional Visitors Center , gas station, necessary services, a shop, several bars, a church, and a hotel.

Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean – Mi 543.1 / Km 874

The highway to Tuktoyaktuk winds through the tundra, boreal forest, past ice hills, magnificent lakes, and incomparable scenery. Near Tuktoyaktuk you will see pingos (ice-cored hills ). Make sure, to stop at Pingo Canadian Landmark, on the shore of the Beaufort Sea. The largest, Ibyuk Pingo, is a real landmark in the flat coastal plain. Here you can admire the Arctic Ocean.

We had the opportunity to see the Arctic Ocean in its Alaskan part in Prudhoe Bay during the trip through the Dalton Highway. But we much liked the Arctic Ocean in Tuktoyaktuk because Prudhoe Bay has a very industrial character. Tuktoyaktuk also offers more things to do, than is possible at Prudhoe Bay and Deadhorse.

With a population of 935, Tuk is the northernmost outpost on Canada’s highway system and an Inuvialuit cultural hub hugging the Arctic coast. We love this tiny town, so check what to do in Tuktoyaktuk .

Agnes Stabinska is a writer, photographer, and co-founder of The Van Escape. She loves wildlife, landscape photography, and outdoor adventures, especially hiking, camping, and exploring U.S. national parks. Although she has traveled to many countries for almost 20 years, her favorite places are Alaska, the American Southwest, and the Pacific Northwest, which she often visits and explore with her partner, Chris. Their travel tips, itineraries, and recommendations will help you get away from it all and plan a wonderful vacation.

13 Comments

This trip sounds like a dream! It’s on my bucket list now. I loved how you mentioned actually doing the Arctic Circle rather than just taking a picture and leaving – I’ll definitely take note of that! So jealous of all the wildlife you got to see!

What an incredible in depth guide. Thank you for mentioning something I didn’t know: that the Yukon border and the Northwest Territories have a different time zone! Also, I had no idea what water treatment tablets were, so you sent me down an Amazon camping rabbit hole!

I love your posts and pictures from Alaska. The light must be fantastic there. Driving along Dempster Highway and crossing the Arctic circle must have been an impressive ride. I guess you were lucky to see that many animals.

How amazing to see the artic NWT, Yukon and Arctic Circle through your eyes. This would be a trip of a lifetime, one that so few of us have had the opportunity to experience. The Tithequehchii Vitail Lookout would be a good resting spot from driving to stretch your legs and do a hike for scenic views, as well as, Tombstone Range Viewpoint.

Your post is like a picture in words. You almost took me on a trip to Yukon and Arctic Circle via Dempster Highway. I hope that I can see it for real someday work with all the chaos now in the world.

During a car journey along the Dempster Highway, I certainly wasn’t expecting there would be so many must-see sites. Those that intend to travel this route will find this extremely useful. It’s also helpful that you provide details on each stop; I hope to visit either of those soon! Quite informative!

I would love to drive the Dempster Highway at some point. I would definitely love to stop on the way and spend some time in these beautiful places you wrote about. I think that spending the night at Tombstone Territorial Park Yukon Government Campground would be something unique, especially if combined with some of the hiking trails around. I would love to see a Grizzly bear, but only from a distance, haha. I would also stop at the Arctic Circle Crossing to take a photo. I have crossed the Arctic Circle before, in Norway, but there was no sign to mark the moment.

This trip sounds like a dream! The Arctic circle is on my bucket list for ages. I loved how well you curated each part with proper information about the places and Dempster Highways travel. I am going to save it for my trip to Arctic circle.

It certainly seems like a dream drive that we would love to experience sometime. Tombstone Territorial Park would be so much intriguing with the opportunity to be close to wildlife. Jak Territorial Park is again so inviting with the sights of birds, hawks, eagles and ducks for company. Arctic Circle Crossing views are majestic as well. Thanks for a complete guide of Dempster Highway.

This sounds like it would be an amazing road trip. I love the scenery here and there is such a variety of wildlife. I wasn’t familiar with pingos, and it is interesting to learn about different landforms. We like traveling off the beaten path and this would be a neat place to explore.

You are making me wish we had planned a summer trip this year to the far north. Great to read about all the great stops along the Dempster Highway. So much wildlife to see along the way. We love stopping at key milestone points on our road trips. So would definitely chronicle the Arctic Circle crossing. We really do need to think about getting a trip like this planned.

I love that you’ve spotted so much wildlife. Especially the bear is so cute – albeit, I’d probably also freak out a bit 😉 The view at the Tombstone Range Viewpoint is just amazing – truly the power of nature.

Two friends and I are making the trip from Cincinnati, Ohio, this year on our motorcycles. Nice article and we will make sure and hit your spots. Did you do Keno Hill or Canol Road? Two other remote places we are going to hit before heading over to Alaska.

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A Year on the Road (Part 4): The Dempster Highway

An adventurous week of hiking and camping along northwest territory's unpaved highway.

Brian McCurdy Photography

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“Oh what a life! We cannot wait. To be in that arctic land, where we'll be the masters of our fate, and lead a life that's grand!... – Bill Waterson (Calvin & Hobbes)

The Journey

The Dempster Highway

Due to the pandemic, we were able to drive only 515 kilometers, about 50 kilometers into Northwest Territory. Despite not journeying all the way to the Arctic Ocean, the length of the Dempster that we traveled felt complete: it comprised so many landscapes, each unique and other-worldly, with the ribbon of highway serving as the only constant. 

After passing through the Ogilvie River Valley and following the ribbon of highway as it climbed 7 miles up the rolling hills of the Eagle Plains plateau, we came across the much-anticipated settlement of Eagle Plains, the only source of supplies along the Dempster Highway (in non-Covid times, there would also be the ability to resupply in Inuvik). With its self-proclaimed population of fewer than 10, Eagle Plains is no metropolis. We stopped for a meal and Otis was immediately enamored with the restaurant dog, likely concluding he was the only dog left on the planet.

After leaving Eagle Plains, we continued north and crossed the Arctic Circle. The land started to become vaster and more open, and peaks shrunk in stature as we left the dark shale of the Richardson Mountains and found ourselves at Northwest Territory's border. We were now in true Arctic tundra. About 50 kilometers into the territory, we stopped just before a Covid checkpoint and turned around, happy to re-witness all that we’d seen—but this time in the opposite direction.  

Things to Know

• The varied geology makes each hike entirely unique. In total, we did six day hikes: Infant Peak, Sapper Hill, Angelcomb, Goldensides, Rake Mountain, Charcoal Ridge. On our hikes, we saw sheep, moose, and camouflaged ptarmigans, but no humans. Both Sapper Hill and Goldensides are short and well-established trails, but the others are less so to varying degrees and require some basic navigation skills and decision-making. In fact, we often did not follow exact routes but opted to choose our own adventures. 

• YukonHiking.ca is a great resource for hikes. We also have the book connected with the website, and would highly recommend it. Having said that, it is also worth checking the website when you have WiFi or cell service as it includes additional hikes, including Infant Peak.
• We’ve also found the AllTrails app to be very helpful. It’s worth investing in the "Pro" version if you want to download maps and GPS tracks to use offline. 

• Wild camping is allowed. There are numerous water sources if you bring a water filter or plan to boil your water. 
• The highway is littered with pullouts with rock rings for firepits, making it easy to find a place to set up camp each night. Because it was the off-season—and amid a global pandemic—we had our pick of locations. We stayed by the Blackstone River on our first night and were rewarded by a spectacular sunset that lit up the limestone mountains in the area. On other nights, we parked in large clearings that were perfect for Aurora Borealis displays.

• There are three Yukon Government campsites before crossing into Northwest Territory. The first is at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre, one is at Engineer Creek, and one at Rock River. Each is $12 a night and includes firewood. 
• There is also a private campground at Eagle Plains. A stay there includes showers. 
• iOverlander is a helpful app for pull-out options and can be used without cell coverage.

• Bring spare tires (do not rely on a donut). A plug kit is also recommended. In total, we had conversations with five different parties during our time on the Dempster, three of whom had suffered at least one flat tire. Incidentally, both couples who did not get a flat tire were driving Sprinters. 
• It is a good idea to bring extra fuel, though we were able to fill up in Eagle Plains. 
• There is no cell service, with the surprising exception of service at the Covid checkpoint in Northwest Territory. 

• Eagle Plains has a population of 8, and together, residents run the gas station, hotel, restaurant, and campground. The grocery store had snacks, but do not count on it for substantial groceries.
• The website www.511yukon.ca is a great resource for information on highway conditions.
• If you plan to travel into Northwest Territory during the era of Covid, it is important to be aware of entry requirements and check regulations ahead of time.

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The Dempster Highway was completed in 1979, and is a well maintained gravel and crushed stone road which extends 742 km/461 miles to Inuvik (Place of Man) an Inuit village 325 km above the Arctic Circle in the Northwest Territories. The Dempster Highway starts 40 km/25 miles east of Dawson City and 496 km/308 miles north of Whitehorse . It is 782 km from Dawson City to Inuvik.

Click here to view our Dempster Highway Map

Yukon Territory Map

This wilderness route spans remote regions of the Yukon cutting through two rugged mountain ranges, the Ogilvie and Richardson Mountains. Travellers will encounter miles of stunted spruce and alder “forests” (8′-12′ tall) in the Eagle Plains region, and elevated reaches of tundra, before dropping to the Mackenzie River and its flat aspen covered delta.

On the Dempster Highway gas stations are limited. Gas, diesel fuel and repairs are available at Eagle Plains 365.7 km/227 miles, Ft. McPherson 555 km/345 miles, and at Inuvik. Appropriate preparation is essential. Camping on the Dempster Highway is possible at a few private campgrounds and provincial parks. See the highway road log below for details.

Dempster Highway to Tuktoyaktuk

Yes, It is possible to take the Dempster Highway to Tuktoyaktuk, which is 138 km/86 miles north of Inuvik. The road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk is not part of the Dempster Highway and is not covered by our mile-by-mile description below. This was the first year round, all weather road to Canada’s Arctic and it opened in November of 2017.

Emergency services: Highway information 867-979-2040. Hospital 867-929-2955. Fire Station 867-929-2222. RCMP 867-929-2935.

Dempster Highway Road Conditions

Dempster Highway road conditions can also vary drastically. Check at the Dawson City Visitor Info Centre or at the Klondike River Lodge (at junction of Klondike and Dempster Highways) for current road conditions before beginning your trip. Signs at Eagle Plains remind you to check conditions again before venturing beyond that location. The Western Arctic Visitor Center on Front Street in Dawson City has all the latest information on the Dempster Highway and the NWT. Open June to September. For up to date conditions on the Highways, you can call 1-867-456-7623 or dial 511 for Current Road Conditions (While in the Yukon).

Be prepared to stop for approaching trucks, especially with dry, dusty conditions. Distances are in kilometers from the junction of the Dempster Highway with the Klondike Highway 40 km south of Dawson City.

For a complete list of Things to do in BC, the Yukon and Alaska on your trip north, visit our Things To Do section . To determine when you should plan your trip to the Yukon and Alaska, visit our page on the best time to visit Alaska . Because the Dempster Highway crosses the Arctic Circle, taking travelers further north than any other highway in the Yukon, it can make for amazing Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) viewing from September to April.

Dempster Highway Road Log

Klondike River Lodge . 867-993-6892.

Klondike River Bridge, one-lane.

Glacier Creek.

Benson Creek.

Peasoup Creek.

Wolfe Creek. Indian fishing camp and turnout along bank.

Grizzly Creek. Mt. Robert Service to East.

Yukon Government Road Maintenance Camp.

First crossing of North Fork of Klondike River.

Parking with litter barrel and Information signs.   RCMP Commemorative sign reads : “The North West Mounted Police Winter Patrols passed this point on their annual 800 km/497 Kilometer trip from Dawson City to Fort McPherson. From 1904 on each patrol spent two or three months traveling by dog team to the Mackenzie Delta and back checking on area residents, carrying mail bound for Herschel Island and the NWT and exploring the little known region. The only tragedy during this time was the death of Fitzgerald’s `Lost Patrol’ in 1911. The increased use of radio communications and airplanes ended the need for the patrols.”

Tombstone Mountain Yukon government campground . Tombstone Mountain is a steep conical massif at the end of a broad sweeping valley. 36 camp sites, kitchen shelter, firepits, tables, water, toilets, hiking trails. There is an Fee area.

Interpretive Center operates during summer months, campfire talks, nature hikes, and local area information.

Tombstone Mountain information sign.

First crossing East Fork of Blackstone River.

First crossing of West Fork of Blackstone River. Good grayling fishing, downstream where the east and west forks of the Blackstone River meet.

RCMP Commemorative sign reads : “The North West Mounted Police Winter Patrols passed this point on their annual 800 km/497 mile trip from Dawson City to Fort McPherson. From 1904 on each patrol spent two or three months traveling by dog team to the Mackenzie Delta and back checking on area residents, carrying mail bound for Herschel Island and the NWT and exploring the little known region. The only tragedy during this time was the death of Fitzgerald’s `Lost Patrol’ in 1911. The increased use of radio communications and airplanes ended the need for the patrols.”

Government airstrip.

Parking with views of erosion pillars.

Engineer Creek Yukon government campground . 15 camp sites, kitchen shelter, firepits, tables, water, toilets. Fishing for grayling. Fee area.

Jeckell Bridge (110 m/360 feet) and Ogilvie River. This bridge was built by the Canadian Forces Engineers as a training exercise.

Rest Area. Good grayling fishing in Ogilvie River.

Airstrip along road.

Ogilvie Ridge, Rest are,a toilets. Viewpoint with interpretive platform on geology of the area.

Eagle Plains , elevation 719 m/2,360 feet. Gas, restaurant, camping, dump station, Emergency airstrip on road. Eagle Plains Hotel. 867-993-2453. Bag Service 2735, Whitehorse, Yukon Y1A 3V5.

Short side road leads to information sign about Albert Johnson, “The Mad Trapper of Rat River”. One of the most famous man hunts in Canadian history began here during the winter of 1931-32. After a month and a half of eluding the Mounties Albert Johnson was killed, 80 km downstream from bridge, in a shoot-out in mid-February.

Bridge crosses Eagle River. The Canadian Forces Engineers built this bridge as a training exercise.

Landing strip on road.

Arctic Circle crossing. Note that the roadbed is built-up 8-12 feet above the surrounding tundra in this area to protect the permafrost, and the road surface.

Rock River Yukon government campground . 20 camp sites, water, kitchen shelters, toilets. This is a beautiful spot. Fee area.

Yukon/Northwest Territories Boundary . Enter mountain time zone (add one hour to Yukon’s Pacific Time). Wright Pass. Information sign on the Dempster Highway.

Midway Lake.

Peel River Ferry. No charge. 8am-midnight, mid-June to mid-October. Accesses are quite steep. Cable guided ferry crossing takes 10 minutes.

Ft. McPherson airstrip.

Fort McPherson . All services available. Restaurant, hotel, gift shop, gas station.

Fort McPherson Tent & Canvas Factory. Some products that are manufactured are tents, backpacks, totebags, tepees. A gift shop is also on the premises.

Frog Creek, road east leads to picnic area. Grayling fishing.

Mackenzie River Ferry. No charge. 9am-midnight, mid-June to early October. The ferry will stop at Tshgehtchic (Arctic Red River) for passengers if necessary.

Rengling River crossing Grayling fishing.

Ehjuu Njik Territorial Day Use Area. Picnic tables, water, firewood. Fee area. Very well maintained

Nihtak Territorial day use and fishing access area. Picnic tables, water, firewood. Fee area.

Inuvik . Pop. approximately 3,400. Inuvik prospered as the hub for oil exploration in the western Arctic until that exploration moved north into the Beaufort Sea and its center became Tuktoyaktuk. Inuvik’s economy depends on muskrat trapping and fishing. It is also the location of several government agencies, a center for communication, transportation, commerce, and education. Notice the Utilidors (utility corridors) raised galvanized or concrete culverts that keep the community’s utility lines and pipes above the permafrost. Also note that all buildings are raised above the ground in order to prevent damage to the permafrost.

Western Arctic Visitors Association , Box 1525, Inuvik, NWT Canada, X0E 0T0. Located across from the hospital. Open May – September. www.inuvik.ca

Arctic Nature Tours located next to Igloo Church. 867 777-3300. Tours include Tuktoyaktuk, Herschel Island, Mackenzie River, Sachs Harbour. www.arcticnaturetours.com

Happy Valley Territorial Campground , located at the north end of town. Short walk to shops, restaurant etc. Wonderfully clean, hot shower rooms, electric hook-ups, water and tables. Fee area.

Inuvik Centennial Library 867-979-2747.

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The ULTIMATE guide to driving the Alaska Highway in 2024

Last updated on May 13th, 2024

Driving the Alaska Highway is the ultimate North America road trip! In this guide we’re sharing everything you need to know before driving the Alaska Highway, based on our experience! In 2022 our big goal was to drive from Austin, Texas to Alaska, which for us, was an over 5,000 mile journey, as we drove through the southwest, up the west coast, and through all of British Columbia and a good chunk of the Yukon Territory. And hands down the biggest highlight of our entire journey to Alaska was driving the Alaska Highway. This scenic drive takes you through remote areas of Canada, through smaller towns and cities, and by unique attractions, with plenty of epic mountains and wildlife sightings along the way. 

Watch our entire drive along the Alaska Highway, including the British Columbia portion , as well as through the Yukon Territory !

We thought that driving the Alaska Highway would be a once in a lifetime experience for us, but we loved it so much that we plan to do it many more times in our lifetime! While the long trek may scare many away from driving to Alaska, it is truly one of the best things we have ever done and we cannot recommend it enough to those who have the ability to take the time for it. The drive, while long at times, went by so quickly because the scenery was always incredible. Everyday we found ourselves being a bit sad that the drive was over. And in this guide our goal is to share all of our tips, favorite stops, and important things to know before tackling driving the Alaska Highway. WARNING: This is a very long guide, but our goal was to make it as comprehensive as possible, so that if you only used this guide, you’d have a successful trip. We have a table of contents feature below if you’d like to skip ahead to any section. Want an ad-free, downloadable version of this guide that you can save to any device or print? Check out our Alaska Highway eBook !

Looking for more things to do in Canada and Alaska? Check out our guides and vlogs!

• The ULTIMATE 10 day Alaska road trip (3 itinerary options!)
• How to spend 7 days in Alaska (4 itinerary options!)
• RVing Alaska: Our top tips & things to know!
• The ULTIMATE Summer Alaska Packing List
• The 24 BEST hikes in Alaska
• 12+ FUN things to do in Valdez, Alaska
• The ULTIMATE guide to visiting Kenai Fjords National Park
• Things to do in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
• Visiting Denali National Park (Mile 0-43)
• The ULTIMATE guide to driving the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Ocean
• 17 FUN things to do in Dawson City, Yukon
• How to have an EPIC 10 Day Vancouver Island Road Trip!
• Sea to Sky Highway Road Trip: The Best Stops from Vancouver to Whistler (+Itineraries!)
• Watch our Canada vlogs and Alaska vlogs !
• All of our Alaska guides

About the Alaska Highway

How to get to the alaska highway, when to drive the alaska highway, important things to know before driving the alaska highway.

• What to bring to drive Alaska Highway

Our Exact Alaska Highway Itinerary

A complete breakdown of the alaska highway, dawson creek, bc (mile marker 0), dawson creek to fort nelson, bc (mile marker 0 to 283), fort nelson, bc (mile marker 283), fort nelson to stone mountain provincial park, bc (mile marker 284-371.5), stone mountain provincial park, bc (mile marker 371.5 to 380.7), stone mountain provincial park to muncho lake, bc (mile marker 380.7 to 409.2), muncho lake, bc (mile marker 437.3), muncho lake to liard river hot springs provincial park, bc (mile marker 444.9 to 477.7), liard hot springs, bc (mile marker 477.7), liard hot springs, bc to watson lake, yukon territory (mile marker 477.7 to 612.9), watson lake, yukon territory (mile marker 612.9), watson lake to teslin, yt (mile marker 612.9 to 776.5), teslin to whitehorse, yt (detour on the klondike highway), whitehorse, yukon (mile marker 887.4), whitehorse to haines junction and kluane national park, yukon (mile marker 887.4 to 985), kluane national park and reserve, yukon (mile marker 985), kluane national park to the alaska border (mile marker 985 to 1186.3), the alaska border (mile marker 1186.3), alaska border to tok, ak (mile marker 1186.3 to 1279.2), tok to delta junction (mile marker 1279.2 to 1387).

The Alaska Highway, also known as the Alcan Highway, runs 2,232 km (1,387 miles) from Dawson Creek in British Columbia, through the Yukon, and ends in Delta Junction in Alaska, before connecting with the Richardson Highway to Fairbanks. While a popular drive for tourists looking to experience Canada and Alaska, the road was actually created to protect the United States. After the attack on Pearl Harbor, there was increasing concern about how the US could defend Alaska, which finalized the decision to create a land route between the lower 48 and Alaska.  An agreement between the US and Canada was soon made where the US would fund the cost of the road construction and maintain it through the duration of WWII, plus an additional 6 months, and then Canada would take over its portions of the road. The construction began in March 1942 with the scouting of the route and mobilizing thousands of pieces of equipment and by June, over 10,000 American soldiers had poured into Canada. The life of a soldier working to build the road was a grueling gig. They would work 7 days a week, with sometimes 16 hour days, and battle below zero temperatures in the winter and mosquitoes and black flies in the summer, all while being fueled by subpar food and harsh living conditions.  Along with the help of 16,000 Canadian and American civilians, they completed the Alaska Highway just 8 months after construction started. While the road technically opened in November 1942, it wasn’t open to the public until 1948 and over time it has gone through many improvements to make it what it is today!

While driving the Alaska Highway is a road trip in itself, you will also have to road trip to get to the start of the highway. The Alaska Highway starts in Dawson Creek in British Columbia, which is on the eastern side of the province, about midway between the United States border and Yukon territory border. And to get there, you can either drive through British Columbia or through Alberta.

Through British Columbia

To get to the start of the Alaska Highway in Dawson Creek from Vancouver you have three options!  For those starting near Vancouver, the most westerly option is to drive Highway 97 up British Columbia. And to get to Highway 97 from Vancouver you can either drive the Sea-to-Sky Highway (Highway 99), which is what we did, or the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) to where it dead ends just north of Cache Creek. Both routes will take about 4-4.5 hours to get to Highway 97. And from there it’s a little over 9 hours along Highway 97 to Dawson Creek.  If you’re starting more east or want to experience two provinces along the way, another route you can take is up Highway 5 up through Kamloops and then cross into Alberta, going near Jasper National Park, before taking a mix of highways to cross back into British Columbia and getting to Dawson Creek. Vancouver, BC to Dawson Creek, BC via the Trans-Canada Highway: 13 hours (1,185 km | 736 miles) Vancouver, BC to Dawson Creek, BC via the Sea to Sky Highway: 13 hours, 30 minutes (1,155 km | 718 miles) Vancouver, BC to Kamloops and up through Alberta: 14 hours (1,319 km | 820 miles) We personally recommend the Sea to Sky Highway route, as it is incredibly scenic and offers a ton to do on its own! To see some of our favorite stops along the drive, read our guide to the Sea to Sky Highway and watch us drive the Sea to Sky Highway . And for ideas of things to do once you get on Highway 97, check out this video !

Stewart- Cassiar Highway

Another way to get to Alaska is via the Stewart-Cassiar Highway, which starts along the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16), near Kitwanga, BC, and goes north to just west of Watson Lake, YT. This highway is a spectacular drive filled with tons of amazing scenery and things to do along the way, including glaciers (like Salmon Glacier pictured above!) and seeing grizzly bears! However, our recommendation is to take the Alaska Highway on your way up to Alaska and then take the Stewart-Cassiar Highway on your way back down to the lower 48. In our opinion, doing it this way will give you the classic or nostalgic experience of driving the Alaska Highway, especially if it’s your first visit to Alaska.

Check out our guide to driving the amazing Stewart-Cassiar Highway ( coming soon )!

From Alberta

If starting in Alberta, specifically near Calgary, the most scenic route will be to take the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) to Banff National Park, then drive the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to Jasper National Park, before taking a mix of highways to cross back into British Columbia and getting to Dawson Creek. We have visited Banff National Park before and driven the Icefields Parkway and it is one of the most epic drives in North America, plus offers tons of hiking and sightseeing along the way! To see some of our suggestions, check out our guide to exploring Banff National Park , which includes a 3 day itinerary! Calgary, AB to Dawson Creek, BC: 10 hours 30 minutes (945 km | 587 miles)

While the Alaska Highway can technically be driven year round, the highway is mostly traveled by tourists between May and September, when it’s snow free! Additionally, many businesses and attractions in this part of the world operate seasonally, so if you’re traveling outside of the months between Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day weekend, you might encounter some closed businesses. We drove the Alaska Highway the first week and a half of June and it was perfect! While one hike we wanted to do was still snowy (it didn’t stop us though…more on that later!) and some of the lakes still had some ice on them, the roads were 100% clear of any snow or ice and the crowds were pretty low. There were times that we didn’t see another vehicle for several hours and we had no issues finding campsites. Another huge perk of driving the Alaska Highway in the summertime is how long the days are. With ample daylight, you can knock out a lot of miles and have enough time for stops along the way, without driving in the dark. 

How much time do you need to drive the Alaska Highway?

We spent 7 full days driving the Alaska Highway and it was a good amount of time to be able to experience the road’s major highlights, plus do some hikes that took a decent chunk of the day.  At almost a 23 hour drive without stops, you could hypothetically do the drive in 2 long days, but unless you’re driving the Alaska Highway purely out of necessity, the whole point of the drive, in our opinion, is to enjoy its beauty! We would suggest a minimum of 7 days to drive the highway, but closer to 10 would allow more time for hikes, shorter driving days, and rest days. We will be listing our exact itinerary later on in this guide, plus what we’d do differently next time!

Cell Service + Internet

Cell service and internet were hands down the hardest part of this drive for us, as we work full time on our business from the road. Cell service was spotty to non-existent during much of the drive, especially in the British Columbia portions, and we found the WiFi in towns to be too slow to upload YouTube videos (but likely fine for those who do not need to do that). Later on in this guide we will break down each section of the drive and note when we did and did not have cell service, plus information about WiFi when applicable, but below is some information on our setup and experience with connectivity on the Alaska Highway.

Our internet set up

As of 2022 when we did the Alaska Highway, we relied solely on data plans through cell phone providers to have internet on the road. We have Verizon Wireless for our phones and were able to connect to Canadian providers for free with our plan, utilizing the same text and talk allowances (unlimited) we have back in the United States. But for data, Verizon Wireless only gave us 0.5 GB of high speed data per day, per device (we have two cell phones, plus a Verizon hotspot device), which ran out quickly, as we rely on data for work. After the 0.5 GB was used, we could pay for an additional 0.5 GB ($5) or use the throttled speeds, which basically did not work. However, as of writing this guide in January 2023, Verizon has now increased this daily data allowance to 2 GB for Canada and Mexico. We also have an AT&T hotspot device, but unfortunately it was not eligible for any international data, so we couldn’t use it at all. In the past when we had AT&T phones, we were able to use our phones normally in Canada, unlimited data and all.

Have Starlink? You’re in luck! As of 2023, Starlink now has coverage all the way up British Columbia and in Alaska. During our visit in 2022, Starlink only covered about halfway up British Columbia and had no coverage in Alaska, so it was not worth the investment for us. Due to the lack of cell service and strong enough WiFi for us to work, we had to go faster than we would’ve liked through Canada. But now that Starlink is an option, we could definitely see ourselves taking this drive much more slowly, since we could work in places that were not possible before!

Although the Alaska Highway is a remote drive, we found there to be adequate services along the way, although they are spread out and it is important to prepare for them. As we break down each section of the drive further down in this guide, we will share what services are available, including fuel, water fill up and dump stations, grocery stores, and laundry. But here are some general rules and tips!

A general rule of thumb for fuel on the Alaska Highway is to never let your tank get below half full. There will be plenty of opportunities to refuel, but if you keep pressing on to look for better prices (you likely won’t find that) or thinking you’ll be fine to make it to the next stop, you may run the risk of running out of fuel. To get an idea what fuel prices are in an area and to find fuel stations, we use the GasBuddy app . This app may not be accurate in remote areas, as it’s more user generated, but we have found that it helps with finding stations and saving money in most places around North America. Also, keep in mind, fuel in Canada is more expensive, is sold by the liter versus the gallon, and you’ll be paying in Canadian dollars. This will likely be your biggest expense of your trip!  Something you may want to consider is bringing extra fuel. As we mentioned, there are plenty of places to refuel, but in case your vehicle has a small fuel tank, you lose track of your fuel level, or the gas station you were banking on is unexpectedly closed, it might be a good idea to carry extra fuel. We brought 2 two gallon Rotopax fuel canisters for our adventures, but never had to use them. Although, we do have a 24 gallon diesel tank and get about 20 MPG, so we can go for long distances without needing fuel.

Grocery stores 

There are a handful of towns along the way that have grocery stores, but they range in quality. As you may expect, the more remote you are, the less selection you may have and the higher the prices may be. We found the grocery stores in Dawson Creek and Whitehorse to be pretty solid, but in smaller towns like Tok (Alaska), the selection was not as great.

Depending on how long you spend on the Alaska Highway, you may have to do laundry along the way. Make sure to have cash on you, both Canadian and American, as the laundromats we went to did not take cards.

You will likely see lots of wildlife along the highway, so make sure to stay alert and slow down if you notice any near the road. During our time on the Alaska Highway we saw 17 black bears, 1 grizzly bear, 3 moose, too many bison to count, 3 caribou, 4 porcupines, 5 stone sheep, 1 elk, and quite possibly the coolest of them all…1 WOLF! We saw a wolf walking in the road (after it had tried to approach a cyclist…SCARY!) and after knowing the cyclist was okay, it was a pretty majestic moment.

One thing you may hear a lot about when heading north to Alaska are mosquitoes. However, we didn’t find them to be too bad overall. In fact, the mosquitoes were much worse for us in the Yukon Territory than they were in Alaska. This could’ve been the result of a variety of factors, like weather and the exact timeframe we visited. We also did take some precautions that may have helped, which we will share below. We do hear that the more northern area of Alaska, like Fairbanks, has a lot of mosquitoes and we personally did experience a lot more on our way out of Alaska in Tok. But our drive on the Alaska Highway, minus near Kluane National Park in the Yukon, was relatively bug free. 

Road conditions

The Alaska Highway is a two lane, paved road (minus construction) and from our experience in 2022, was in pretty good condition!  Some sections were perfectly paved, while others were a bit bumpy with potholes, frost heaves (explained below!), and construction. Most of these rough spots will be marked with an orange flag or cone, but not all, so stay alert! Another thing to remember when driving in Canada is that the speed limit and distances will be in kilometers per hour instead of miles, BUT the mile markers for the Alaska Highway are listed in miles.

Construction

Because of the harsh environments, there is always at least one section of the highway under construction and these sections can be as small as a few feet or as long as many miles. Summer is when all the construction happens and we quickly learned there are two seasons in the north country…winter and construction season! Oftentimes in these stretches that are under construction, traffic will be reduced to one lane and this can lead to long wait times, so make sure to plan for a bit of extra time than Google Maps may tell you.  You’ll want to keep these two websites, 511 Yukon and DriveBC , bookmarked so that you can check the construction and road conditions frequently. These websites provide updates on current projects, info on future projects, and some cameras.

Frost Heaves

In Canada and Alaska the extreme winter weather causes frost heaves in the road, which are like speed bumps in the middle of the highway. As you can imagine, hitting a speed bump at 60 mph will not be good for your vehicle. Frost heaves are a big reason for lots of construction. Again, stay alert and watch for these. We personally did not find the frost heaves to be bad, but we had upgraded our suspension on our van and drove slowly, but we know some RVs find them very unenjoyable.

What type of vehicle do you need for the Alaska Highway?

Any vehicle, minus electric vehicles, will work fine on the Alaska Highway! Since the road is paved (minus construction) and there is no off roading required, it is suitable for both small cars and also large RVs. We know of people who have done the Alaska Highway with huge Class A RVs, plus tow vehicles. We personally think this is the ultimate RV/van life road trip! By having a home on wheels, you can be super flexible in where you drive everyday and will be able to have more comfort along the way! However, you could also do this drive in a passenger vehicle and just stay in a tent or at different lodges/hotels along the way.

Crossing the border

Depending on where you’re starting your Alaska Highway journey, you will cross at least one border, so you will need your passport and to know these important things below!

COVID rules

As of January 2023, you no longer have to be vaccinated to enter Canada and the ArriveCan app is no longer required.

What not to bring

To be honest, it’s very confusing what you can and cannot bring. You can find the rules for the US here and the rules for Canada here . But our rule is to try to always cross with an empty fridge. Besides firearms, meat and produce are the items they will ask about the most. We tried to have an empty fridge when we crossed into Canada and also into Alaska, so we had no issues.  But when we crossed back into the US months later, we misjudged how much we could eat beforehand and had some produce and eggs in our fridge. We declared them and our fridge had to be searched and they took a variety of items. So to play it safe, we’d suggest bringing no produce, meat, or eggs with you. If you do have those items, make sure to declare them. You cannot get penalized for having items if you declare them (they’ll just get taken), but if you do not tell them and you get caught later, you can get fined. Also, you are NOT allowed to bring pepper spray into Canada. It is considered a weapon. You can, however, bring bear spray. We have this bear spray and made sure to declare it when crossing.

Crossing with pets

If you’re bringing a pet, you will need to declare them at the border. You’ll also need to make sure you have a copy of their rabies vaccination and that you only bring dog food in its original packaging, which has to be less than 20 kg (44 lbs).

NEW as of August 1, 2024: There are new CDC requirements to bring dogs (NOT cats) back into the US from Canada. In addition to a NEW rabies vaccination form (provided by vets), you will also need a CDC dog import form, proof of an ISO-compatible microchip, and good health. Dogs must also be over 6 months old. To see what exactly applies to your dog, check out DogBot , which will walk you through the process based on your situation.

For US Citizens, we highly recommend getting NEXUS , which makes crossing the border a breeze! However, you will only be able to use this crossing into Canada, as the Alaska border does not have a NEXUS line.

Where to sleep

Since this is a road trip, your lodging will likely change every night. It seems that most travelers on the Alaska Highway are RVers or van lifers, so you will stay in your home on wheels, but the location of your home will vary. There are lodges, campgrounds (for tent campers), and hotels along the way if you’re driving a car and cannot just pull over on the side of the road like we can. If you plan on staying in many hotels and motels on your journey, be sure to make reservations ahead of time so that you can ensure you have a room. We will list recommended places to stay for each section of the drive, including free camping options, developed campgrounds, and lodges and hotels.

Curious how we find free campsites? Check out our detailed guide to free camping to learn which tools we use, rules to follow, and other tips! 

What to bring to drive the Alaska Highway

​​Tire repair kit and a spare

You’ll be driving thousands of miles and getting a flat tire or having engine trouble, especially in areas without any services or cell service, is a concern.  Make sure you pack a tire repair kit , have at least one spare tire for your trip, bring an emergency tool kit , and carry any fluids you might need to keep your vehicle running smoothly (like DEF for the diesel folks out there!).

Enough food and water

There are some places to eat and get groceries along the way, but with a long road trip like the Alaska Highway, you never know what may happen. For example, in 2022, just weeks after we got into Alaska, a washed out bridge caused part of the Alaska Highway to close, which stranded many travelers, caused three day long detours, and also limited semi trucks from delivering food to the more remote communities along the way. With that said, it’s a good idea to carry more food (and water!) than you think you need, especially non perishable items, just in case you break down, you decide to spend more time in one area, or a bridge gets washed out. 

The Milepost 

The Milepost is known as “the bible of North Country travel” and is a large, annual travel guide to all of the routes to and in Alaska, with mile by mile descriptions and information about lodging, where to eat, things to see and do, and tons more.  Anytime you mention driving to Alaska, you will be told to buy The Milepost. Some people had told us they had it open as they drove and followed along mile by mile, but we never opened it once while driving.  In our opinion, while The Milepost is useful, it is also very overwhelming and includes much more information than we felt we needed, which caused us to spend a lot of time sifting through it for the information we wanted. We’d still buy it again and suggest you do the same, but we personally used it more as a research tool before driving the Alaska Highway, not during. However, we are very much planned travelers, so spontaneous travelers may feel differently.  We spent many hours before driving the Alaska Highway researching things to do, checking the hours of the businesses, and making a day by day itinerary, including where to stop for fuel. And The Milepost did help us figure out stops to make and where to get fuel, but we also found many more stops by watching YouTube videos and reading blogs (like ours!). 😃

Download offline maps & documents

Since you may not have cell service for multiple days of the drive, we highly suggest downloading offline maps (both Google Maps and AllTrails maps), plus any documents you may need before you hit the road. We kept our itinerary on a Google Sheet, so we made sure to have that downloaded, plus the routes for any hikes we wanted to do.

Want to get 30% off an AllTrails+ membership ? Use our code aplusk30 (you must redeem this code on the website, not the app)! We use AllTrails+ on every single hike and it is the most helpful hiking tool out there! Some of the features we love are offline maps (so we can navigate even without cell service), wrong-turn alerts, and its 3D maps feature, so we can get a feel for trails before we hike.

Garmin inReach 

We always carry our Garmin inReach Mini when we hike or backpack and it has come in handy several times on our adventures, mostly to text family (not for SOS reasons thankfully)! But it was also a useful tool for this drive! We used it daily to keep our family updated on our drive, when we didn’t have cell service.

Hiking Gear

If you’re doing any hiking, make sure to bring the appropriate hiking gear with you (see what all we take here !). We also always recommend having the 10 essentials on you, which can come in handy both for hiking or for your road trip!

You’re likely to see lots of wildlife along the highway and having binoculars is a must! Adam got these Bushnell H20 Roof Prism binoculars for his birthday in 2021 and we love them!

Bear spray 

There is plenty of wildlife to see when driving the Alaska Highway, especially bears. While we mostly just saw black bears, which are less aggressive than grizzly bears, we know of others who encountered more grizzlies. Regardless of the bear type, we always carry bear spray in bear country, just to be safe. As we mentioned earlier, you can purchase bear spray in the US and bring it with you over the border or you can find it at many stores along the highway.

Bug repellant 

Although we didn’t experience much of a problem with bugs and mosquitos compared to what we expected, there is a reason they joke that the state bird of Alaska is the mosquito. For our trip we bought a Thermacell and brought bug spray with DEET .

Swimsuit 

You might not think to bring your swimsuit to Alaska, but along the way you’ll want your swimsuit to dip in Liard Hot Springs, one of our absolute favorite spots along the Alaska Highway!

Podcasts and music to listen to

No road trip is complete without some groovy tunes and fun podcasts! We recommend a podcast called Beach Too Sandy, Water Too Wet , which is a podcast where they read negative reviews in a dramatic fashion. Make sure to download any podcasts or music for offline use!

You will definitely want to bring a camera with you on this adventure! The best camera is the one you have at the moment, but if you’re curious what cameras and gear we use, check out our gear list .

Since you’ll be crossing international borders, you’ll need your passport! 

Many of the campgrounds and some businesses along the way only take cash, so make sure to have some Canadian currency on you! We will be noting the cost for many places on this guide and these prices will be in the currency of the place we are talking about.

Below is our exact Alaska Highway itinerary, with the hours of driving for each day noted, which we hope is a good starting point to hopefully help you figure out how to organize your days driving the Alaska Highway. Day 1: We arrived in Dawson Creek after spending days driving up from Vancouver. Day 2: We spent the morning in Dawson Creek and drove just past Fort Nelson to the KM 536 Rest Area. (5 hours, 40 minutes) Day 3: We drove from the KM 536 Rest Area to Muncho Lake, with a stop on the way at Stone Mountain Provincial Park. (2 hours) Day 4: We dove from Muncho Lake to Teslin, Yukon, stopping at Liard River Hot Springs, the Sign Post Forest, and some other sights along the way. (6 hours, 40 minutes) Day 5: We drove from Teslin, down to Carcross, and up to Whitehorse. (2 hours) Day 6: We spent half of the day in Whitehorse and then headed to Kluane National Park. (2 hours) Day 7: We spent the day exploring Kluane National Park, plus had an unplanned detour to Long Ago People’s Place. (3 hours, with 2 hours being the detour) Day 8: We made it to Alaska, ending our drive in Tok! (4.5 hours) As you can see, only a couple days required driving over 5 hours, so overall, this was a very doable itinerary and allowed us to experience a lot of what the highway had to offer. However, when (not if!) we do the Alaska Highway again, we do hope to spend longer than 7-8 days.

Our favorite stops on the Alaska Highway

We will be diving deeper into the Alaska Highway below, but here’s a quick look at our top highlights along the drive!

British Columbia

• Tetsa River Lodge Cinnamon Rolls
• Stone Mountain Provincial Park
• Muncho Lake
• Liard River Hot Springs

Yukon Territory

• Watson Lake Sign Post Forest
• Carcross Desert (slight detour)
• Emerald Lake (slight detour)
• Whitehorse 

Long Ago Peoples Place

• Kluane National Park

What would we do differently?

In the future, we’d like to extend our time in the region between Stone Mountain Provincial Park and Liard Hot Springs, so that we could go on more hikes in Stone Mountain Provincial Park, as well as Muncho Lake, plus spend more time at Kluane National Park, which was a HUGE highlight for us. We also enjoyed Whitehorse, but were able to spend more time there on the way back from Alaska, which regardless of which route you take, will be on your itinerary, so you can always save some things to do there for the way back.

For the next and final part of this guide, we will break down the Alaska Highway by each section, with details on what to expect, amenities and services, things to do, and places to stay.  We have also created this custom Google Map above, which you can download to access on your phone, which will include the majority of the stops we are listing below. 

To download this map, you will want to click the rectangle in the top right corner of the map, which will open it on your Google Maps app. However, this will not automatically populate the map on your phone anytime you have Google Maps open, so to access it again in the future, click “saved” on the bottom part of the app, then “maps”, and you should be able to see it as a saved map.

Note: This information below is all based on our visit in 2022 and we cannot guarantee that things will be the same for future years. 

You have made it to Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway! Dawson Creek is the jumping off point for your grand adventure and is the best opportunity to load up on groceries, water, use a dump station, and make any last minute adjustments to your rig or get any maintenance completed.  It’s here in Dawson Creek where thousands of troops stepped off the train in 1942 to begin working on the Alaska Highway. Dawson Creek was an important town for supplies and construction of the highway and makes for an exciting first stop on the journey!

Things to do

If you have a little extra time to spend in Dawson Creek before hitting the road, here are some things to do in town. 

Photograph this exciting occasion!

The #1 thing you MUST do in Dawson Creek is take a photo with the “World Famous Alaska Highway” sign ! After over a year of dreaming about this trip, getting to stand at this sign and snap a photo was surreal! There is also a Historical Milepost 0 marker just a quick walk away that you can snap a photo at. 

Visit the Visitor Centre

We highly recommend popping into the visitor centers in the major towns along the Highway if you’re interested in getting more information, plus up to date information on the weather and road conditions ahead of you. The Visitor Centre in Dawson Creek had helpful information, plus Alaska Highway souvenirs.  Also in the Visitor Centre is the NAR Station Museum, which is accessible by donation ($5/person). This was a great place to visit to learn more about the history of Dawson Creek! 

Walter Wright Pioneer Village

The Walter Wright Pioneer Village is a replica pioneer village with a general store, church, and school house that shares the history of the pioneers who settled in the Dawson Creek area. Admission is by donation!

Places to eat

During our time in Dawson Creek we grabbed breakfast and coffee at beans&barley , which is a super cool spot! Not only do they have delicious food and coffee, but they also have an indoor golf range! What a combo! The inside is large with a rustic, yet modern design and they served the coffees in beautiful mugs on a wooden platter, which were little touches that just added to the overall vibe and presentation. As for the food and drinks, we got an Americano and butterscotch latte, a breakfast burrito which was top notch, and the Cobb Bowl, with delicious homemade dressing.  They do offer WiFi, but if we remember correctly, it was through Telus or another Canadian provider and we had a hard time accessing it. 

More places to eat in Dawson Creek:

• Browns Socialhouse
• Le’s Family Restaurant
• The Chopped Leaf
• Spicy Fusion
• Stuie’s Diner

Cell Service: Cell service is great in Dawson Creek!  Fuel: There are many fuel options here in town to choose from. Water fill up and dump station: Dawson Creek has a FREE town dump station on the east side of town. There are 4 dump stations and potable water. We used this spot to fill up water and it was pretty busy, so expect a small wait. There is also a free dump station at the Mile 0 Campground. WiFi: Free WiFi is available at the Visitor Centre and there is also a library in town! Grocery Stores: Safeway (we went here and it was nice!), Dave’s NOFRILLS , Save-On-Foods   Laundry: GCM Wet Cleaner and Laundromat . If you stay at the Mile 0 Campground, there is laundry there as well.

Where to stay

Campgrounds.

Mile 0 Campground We stayed at the Mile 0 Campground and it was perfect for one night right before we hit the road! This is a large campground with RV sites with full hookups, ranging from 15 to 50 amp, as well as a dry camping area. We camped in the camping area which is basically a big grassy lot where you can park or set up your tent wherever you’d like.  There is coin laundry (it was $2.50 for wash and $0.25 to dry for 12 minutes when we stayed), free hot showers, and WiFi that really only works in the main building where the laundry and showers are.  The campground is open May 1 to October 1 and we did request a spot in advance, but there appeared to be spots available, as it seems like mostly a one night stop for people. Northern Lights RV Park Another option in town is Northern Lights RV Park. They have RV sites with full hookups (30 and 50 amp), cabins, and tent sites. They offer laundry, WiFi, and showers. 

The Holiday Inn Express is the best option hotel-wise in the area! If you don’t want to stay the night in Dawson Creek, you can also drive an hour north to Fort St. John. We will list some hotels there in the next section! A Staybridge Suites will also be open soon and would be a great option if you want a kitchen!

The first big leg of the drive, at least for us, when leaving Dawson Creek is the stretch to Fort Nelson. Along the way you’ll pass Fort St. John, another decent sized town about an hour north of Dawson Creek, and then from there to Fort Nelson you’ll experience just uninterrupted nature. Before driving the Alaska Highway we had read that this stretch was pretty boring. And while it may not be as scenic as later parts of the drive, it was a lot more beautiful than we thought it would be!  We booked it through this section so we could knock out miles and spend more time in the areas with more things to do, but we did enjoy this stretch from the van window! It had tons of trees and some mountain views along the way.

As for driving conditions, this stretch of the Alaska Highway was very straightforward. The road is mostly straight with not many curves and one thing we loved is that the trees are set back from the road a bit, which made it feel safer with the risk of wildlife running out. We found the Peace River District part of the drive (the majority of this section) to be very smooth, but once we entered into the Northern Rocky District, the road was a bit rougher and had more construction. 

As mentioned, there isn’t much to do along this stretch of drive. One cool thing to check out though is Kiskatinaw Provincial Park , which is a few miles off the highway. This little detour will take you on a portion of the old original Alaska Highway and the 531 foot Kiskatinaw Bridge, which is the only original timber bridge built along the Alaska Highway still in use today.  Make sure to check its status in advance though. It was closed during our visit due to landslide risk.

Cell Service: We had cell service basically this entire drive! Fuel: There are a couple places to get fuel between Dawson Creek and Fort Nelson. Fort St. John has multiple options, plus you can find fuel at Race Trac Gas and Buckinghorse River Lodge in Pink Mountain, BC and at the Sikanni River Campground & RV Park (gas only). Water fill up and dump station: There is a dump station with potable water in Taylor if you forgot to fill up and empty in Dawson Creek. Sikanni River Campground & RV Park

If you want to knock out an easy hour of the drive from Dawson Creek, you can stay in Fort St. John along this stretch. There are a handful of hotels here including:

• Home2 Suites
• Best Western Plus
• Microtel Inn & Suites

Duhu Lake Recreation Site This recreation site at mile marker 154.5 has 7 dry campsites next to Duhu Lake. Like most recreation sites in Canada, there is no fee and no reservations required! Sikanni River Campground & RV Park Located at mile marker 159.4 is the Sikanni River Campground & RV Park. They offer RV sites with hookups, cabins, as well as dry campsites. Amenities include coin operated showers, laundromat, WiFi, and a convenience store.  Buckinghorse River Lodge The Buckinghorse River Lodge is located at mile 175, about halfway between Fort St. John and Fort Nelson, and has a restaurant, fuel station, motel, and campground. Andy Bailey Regional Park   This dry campground is just a few miles south of Fort Nelson. It costs $17 CAD (cash only) per night for a site and is just a short drive off the highway and would be great if you need a quick one night stay. 

Boondocking

On this stretch of the drive there are lots of places you can pull off for a night. Many of them are highway pull outs or rest areas. One of the best options is Loon Lake , which even has an outhouse! We suggest looking at iOverlander for other options as well.

Fort Nelson is the next major town along the Alaska Highway. It began as a fur trading post for the North West Fur Trading Co. and remained a “pioneer community” until the 1950s, when it finally gained electricity, running water, and other modern day conveniences. This will be the largest town before making it to Watson Lake in the Yukon Territory and you’ll find most of the services and necessities you’ll need here, along with an interesting historical stop.

Fort Nelson Heritage Museum This museum has tons of small and large artifacts and equipment that detail the history of the Fort Nelson town and area. You’ll be able to view the vintage car collection, many of which are from the World War II era when the highway was being built, as well as loads of items from the different industries, including forestry, fire fighting, mining, trapping and hunting, and so much more. This is a great stop for families to learn about Fort Nelson and stretch your legs!

We didn’t eat in Fort Nelson, but Northern Spice Pizza & Donair looks yummy! There are also many popular food chains like Subway, Boston Pizza, Domino’s, A&W, and Tim Horton’s.

Cell Service: There is good cell service in Fort Nelson. Make sure to take advantage of it, as it’ll soon be gone! Fuel: Fort Nelson has a handful of fuel options to choose from. Water fill up and dump station: There is a free dump station next to the Visitor Center WiFi: There is free WiFi at the Visitor Centre (open daily 8 AM to 7 PM in the summer). Grocery Stores: IGA Fort Nelson , Save-On-Foods , Down to Earth Health Stop Laundry: Kacee’s Koin Kleeners & Sukhi’s Coin-Op Laundromat

Triple “G” Hideaway This campground has sites with full hookups (most are 30 amp), plus coin operated laundry and shower facilities. And most importantly…ice cream!

Woodlands Inn & Suites Lakeview Inns & Suites

From here you’ll traverse through the Rocky Mountains, yes those Rocky Mountains! This stretch of the drive is home to the Northern Rocky Mountains, which is considered by some to be the northern terminus of the longest mountain range in North America. Others argue that they actually go up into Alaska, but regardless, this stretch of the Rockies is very beautiful and is one of the best parts of the drive!  The road conditions were pretty good along this stretch of the highway with some steep inclines to navigate, winding roads, and of course the possibility of construction projects! Even though there was still lots of snow in the mountains, there was no snow or ice on the roads.

Get cinnamon buns 

Cinnamon buns are a very popular food item on the Alaska Highway. We aren’t 100% sure why and we tried researching it, but couldn’t find a solid answer. We are not mad about it though! Some of the most highly touted cinnamon buns are said to be from the Tetsa River Lodge (Milepost 375), who claims to be the “cinnamon bun centre of the galactic cluster.” We couldn’t pass up a claim like that, so we decided for our one cinnamon bun on the drive, we’d enjoy theirs. And we are so glad we did. They were super tasty and HUGE!  We also read that these are made in small batches throughout the day so that the buns are fresh as people arrive! During our visit, they opened at 7 AM, so it’s a good spot to grab an early bite to eat and some coffee before a long day of driving. While we only tried Tetsa River Lodge’s cinnamon buns, we made friends along the drive who tried multiple and they voted that Tetsa River Lodge had the best…so don’t miss these! But if you want some other options, here are a couple other popular spots: Johnson’s Crossing Lodge (Milepost 836 | 930 km) Double G Service (Muncho Lake)

Cell Service: As soon as we left mile marker 335.7 (KM 536 Rest Area) we lost cell service until Watson Lake in the Yukon Territory. For us, this was 2 days of driving without any cell service or connectivity.  At Tetsa River Lodge you can find a cafe, campground, fuel, fresh water and a dump station, and WiFi. Fuel: If you forgot to fill up in Fort Nelson, the Tetsa River Lodge has fuel. Water fill up and dump station: The Tetsa River Lodge has water and a dump station, but we are not 100% sure if it is open to the public. WiFi: The Tetsa River Lodge also has WiFi in their lodge! Grocery Stores: There are no grocery stores along this stretch. Laundry: Tetsa River Lodge

We stayed at the KM 536 Rest Area our first night on the Alaska Highway and it was a good spot! It helped us get a bit past Fort Nelson and closer to the next day’s activities. It’s just a pull off on the side of the highway, but is very wide and has a safe distance from the road. And despite there being some trucks, it was a quiet night’s sleep. The rest area is also known as Steamboat Mountain Summit and has restrooms, garbage bins, and a viewpoint to check out, if it isn’t fogged over like it was when we stayed!  Just after this rest area you will likely lose all cell service until Watson Lake, Yukon Territory. If you need to download any last minute maps or information, this is your last chance.  Another boondocking option nearby is the Muskwa River Recreation Area , about 40 minutes west of Fort Nelson.

Tetsa River Lodge Not only do they have super popular and delicious cinnamon buns, but they also have a campground, cabins, cafe, and fuel. There are 30 RV sites with full hookups, including 15 amp power, for $30 per night and tent sites for $20. There are showers and a washroom for guests as well.  Tetsa River Regional Park Campground The Tetsa River Regional Park is a small campground on the Tetsa River just a short drive off the highway. There are 25 dry campsites that cost $20 per night, with taxes and firewood included!

One of our favorite stops and portions of the drive on the Alaska Highway was Stone Mountain Provincial Park. This park is more than 25,000 hectares of mountain wilderness, rivers, and lakes, where you can camp, hike, fish, canoe or kayak, and more! And if you’re lucky, you may spot a caribou (or two or three!) while here.

Flower Springs Lake Trail

During our time in the park we hiked the dog friendly (on-leash) Flower Springs Lake Trail , which is about 10.3 km (6.4 miles) with 318 km (1,043 feet) of elevation gain.  The trail begins from the Summit Lake Campground right on the highway and for the first part, you’ll hike along an unpaved access road and after about 1.4 miles you’ll reach the official trailhead (don’t forget to register!). From here it gets better and better! 

Once getting to the official trailhead, the hike gets better and better! You go from being mostly surrounded by trees on the unpaved road to having sweeping views the entire rest of the hike! You will cross some creeks, go over some bridges, be surrounded by mountains, and if you’re lucky, see some wildlife. We saw a caribou on the trail, plus stone sheep off in the distance, climbing on rocks. 

However, one very important thing to be aware of is snow. When we hiked in early June there was still a lot of snow and ice along the trail. We knew that safety wise we were fine (no avalanche threats), so we hiked anyways, but there were moments where we postholed to our knees. While some may not enjoy that, we had a blast and it only made the hike more memorable. Another hurdle on our hike was the weather. The day we hiked it was foggy and we weren’t very optimistic that we’d see the magnificent views this area has. We decided to hike it anyway and lucky for us as we got closer to the lake, the clouds began to part and we were treated to epic snowy mountain scenery!

Normally Flower Springs Lake has gorgeous, turquoise water, but it was iced over during our visit. However, we could tell that the color was vibrant underneath the ice. The ground was also a bit brown due to the recent snowmelt (later in the summer would be more green). But even so, it was still such a stunning hike. And the best part? We had it all to ourselves!  This hike was proof that you shouldn’t let cloudy and foggy weather stop you, because the weather in the mountains can change quickly (for better or worse!) and you may still luck out with some views!

Other trails to hike

We would love to have more time here in the future, so we can hike more trails. Some trails we’d like to check out next time are: Baba Canyon Trail   Distance (round trip): 6.3 km | 3.9 miles Elevation gain: 330 m | 1,085 feet This hike takes you through a canyon, to a gorgeous, bright blue swimming hole, surrounded by mountains! Summit Peak Trail Distance (round trip): 7 km | 4.3 miles Elevation gain: 744 m | 2,440 feet This hike offers some great views of the Northern Rockies! 

Kayak or canoe on Summit Lake

Next time we’d love to bring out our kayak and paddle on Summit Lake. When we were there it was still frozen over, so we had fun skimming rocks across the icy surface instead! 

Cell Service: There is no cell service in or near the park. Fuel: None. Water fill up and dump station: Water pumps are available in the Summit Lake Campground, but there are no dump stations. WiFi: None. Grocery Stores: None. Laundry: None.

Summit Lake Campground The park is home to the Summit Lake Campground, which has 28 first come, first served sites at $20 per night (cash only). It is open early May to mid September and during our visit, the campground was pretty empty.

The BEST stretch of the Alaska Highway, in our opinion, is the drive from Stone Mountain Provincial Park to Muncho Lake. The scenery was STUNNING, with gorgeous mountains, waterfalls off the side of the road, rivers, and more. It’s everything we hoped for when driving the Alaska Highway!

Cell Service: There is no cell service. Fuel: At the Toad River Lodge you can find most services including fuel and propane, plus tire repair, laundromat, post office, and more! Water fill up and dump station: None. WiFi: The Toad River Lodge has WiFi for guests, as well as for a small fee per device for others. Grocery Stores: None, but there is a restaurant at the Toad River Lodge ! Laundry: Toad River Lodge

Toad River Lodge   The Toad River Lodge has an RV campground with full hookups, plus a lodge and cabins. Poplars Motel and Campground The Poplars Motel and Campground is another option nearby, with an RV park with full hookups, plus cabins.

Quite possibly the most popular and gorgeous stop on the Alaska Highway is Muncho Lake! This massive, gorgeous turquoise colored lake gets its name from the Kaska language, where “muncho” means “big lake.” And that is an accurate description! It is 7.5 miles long and a mile wide and is reported to be 730 feet deep at its deepest point! When you leave Muncho Lake be sure to stop at the overlook on the north end of the lake. It’s an incredible view with some information boards about the lake and Kaska people.

At Muncho Lake Provincial Park you can camp, fish, kayak, and hike. The park encompasses more than just the lake and provides habitats for tons of wildlife including caribou, moose, stone sheep, mountain goat, bear, and tons of other animals. 

Go kayaking!

One of the best ways to experience the lake is on the water. There are multiple places to launch a kayak, including right from your campsite at the Muncho Lake Provincial Park campgrounds, which we HIGHLY recommend staying at, or at Northern Rockies Lodge, which has rentals too!

Stone’s Sheep Trail

The Stone’s Sheep Trail is a 6.1 km (3.8 mile) round trip hike with just under 305 km (1,000 feet) of gain up the wash of a mountain stream. This looks like a fun hike with interesting rock formations along the way, a river, and you’ll find a waterfall if you keep going a couple hundred meters past the end of the AllTrails trail. It is very rocky, so make sure you can handle a rocky trail and bring some poles!

Mineral Lick Trail

Just north of Muncho Lake is the Mineral Lick Trail , which is a short trail (1.1 km/0.7 miles) with views of the amazing rocks, mountains, and the Trout River. With all the minerals in the surrounding rocks you’ll have a good chance of seeing goats, caribou, elk, and sheep on the trail!

Cell Service: There is no cell service in the park. Fuel: At the Northern Rockies Lodge you can find most services including fuel and just before you get to Muncho Lake you’ll find Double G Service which has fuel as well, plus postal service.  Water fill up and dump station: There is a dump station at the Northern Rockies Lodge , if you choose to stay there, plus the RV sites do have water. WiFi: The Northern Rockies Lodge has WiFi, but we hear it is VERY slow. Double G Service   also has WiFi, but we wouldn’t count on it either 😊. Grocery Stores: Double G Service has a convenience store, cafe, and giant cinnamon buns, and there is a restaurant at the Northern Rockies Lodge . Laundry: Northern Rockies Lodge

There are two campgrounds in Muncho Lake Provincial Park to choose from. Both campgrounds have water (not for filling up RVs, just to fill up bottles or pots/pans), toilets, and trash cans. And from what we saw, almost all campsites are right on Muncho Lake. If you’re in an RV, van, or tent, staying here is a MUST! These are both first come, first served campgrounds and during our visit in early June, we had no issue getting a spot in the afternoon. We are pretty confident it wasn’t 100% full, but if you go later in the summer it likely will get busier.  You will pay the fee for the campground in cash to one of the park rangers, who will come by at night to pick up the fee and also sell firewood. We weren’t sure if they sold firewood and wanted a fire earlier than they arrived, so we bought some from the lodge down the road for $14 CAD.  Strawberry Flats Campground This campground is on the south end of the lake and has 15 first come, first served dry campsites for $20/night. We did not stay here, but heard great things! It is very similar to the MacDonald Campground, so you could stop here first, see if you like a site, and if not, continue on! MacDonald Campground The MacDonald Campground is located toward the north end of Muncho Lake and has 15 first come, first served dry campsites. This is the campground we stayed at (site #9) and it’s one of the best campsites we’ve ever had! Most of the campsites are set right on the water’s edge and it’s just an incredible scene. 

Hotel/Lodge

Northern Rockies Lodge The Northern Rockies Lodge has an RV campground, motel, hotel, and lakeshore chalets , which all range in price and are a great option if you are traveling by vehicle and need somewhere more comfortable to stay than a tent. Double G Service Double G Service has a motel that you can stay at as well!

This stretch of the Alaska Highway leads to one of our favorite stops along the drive and while it doesn’t offer a ton to do, it does offer something pretty unique…bison! This stretch of the highway is a common spot to see a small herd of Wood Bison. In the early 1900s, all the Wood Bison in Northern British Columbia were killed off, but in 1995 the Canadian government reintroduced a herd of 49 Wood Bison at Nordquist Lake, east of the Alaska Highway.

You now have a VERY high chance of seeing these from the road (you will 100% see evidence of them on the road…if you know what we mean! 💩) As neat as it is to see these giant bison, be careful as you drive through the area, as they spend a lot of time near the highway and have caused many vehicle collisions. And NEVER EVER get out of your car and approach a bison. They can and will hurt you if they feel threatened.

There are no services between Muncho Lake and Liard River Hot Springs.

Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park is a MUST when driving the Alaska Highway! It’s the perfect stop to rest and relax after a long journey so far and to get ready for the many miles ahead! These hot springs are the second largest in Canada and the public portion is called the Alpha Pool, which ranges in temperatures from 42ºC to 52ºC (107ºF to 125ºF). When looking at the pool, starting to the right is the hottest temperature and then it progressively cools down as you go to the left. We thought the optimal temperature was just a shade toward the hot end from the middle. This is where lots of people tend to congregate so we weren’t the only ones! 

Some logistics for visiting the hot springs

• The park opens at 7 AM and we HIGHLY recommend going early!
• There is a $5/person fee to visit during the peak season.
• Getting to the hot springs requires a short walk on a boardwalk.
• Make sure to bring bear spray! Bears DO hang out around here and there have been incidents in the past, so please carry bear spray and do not go to any areas that are prohibited. There are electric fences to keep you safe and there will be a ranger at the hot spring to monitor the pool and for bears. We didn’t see any bears!
• There are changing rooms and toilets by the hot springs, which are designed in very nice, wooden modern looking buildings.

The hot spring is a fun and relaxing experience on its own, but what made it even better was chatting with others in the pool, learning where they are from, and swapping travel stories. This was the first time on our entire Journey to Alaska that we got to chat with others who were also driving to Alaska and it was a blast to finally be with people who were on the same journey as us. We even met a couple at the hot springs that we ended up becoming friends with and saw several times during our time in Alaska, both coincidentally and on purpose! After soaking in the hot spring, make sure to make the super quick walk to the hanging garden to see some waterfalls!

Cell Service: There is no cell service. Fuel: The Liard Hot Springs Lodge has fuel. Water fill up and dump station: The Liard Hot Springs Lodge has a dump station and water, although recent reviews on Google had many people complaining that the campground was on a boil water notice and it wasn’t safe to drink in 2022.  WiFi: The Liard Hot Springs Lodge has WiFi, but it is remote and we hear it sometimes does not work. Grocery Stores: The Liard Hot Springs Lodge has a convenience store with some grocery items for sale.  Laundry: Liard Hot Springs Lodge

The Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park is the best campground option in the area. It has 53 sites, which cost $27 and includes the hot springs fee, but there are no hookups or dump stations. You can reserve most of them in advance, with some being first come, first served. However, it typically fills up everyday in the summer, so plan ahead! Can’t get a site? You are not out of luck! They have an overflow parking area for RVs, which costs the same amount, but has no amenities. This isn’t ideal, but it is an option! We did not personally stay here, as we wanted to stay at Muncho Lake instead (about 50 minutes south), but if you have the time, we’d suggest a night at Muncho Lake, plus a night here, as you will be able to access the hot springs multiple times by camping here!

Liard Hot Springs Lodge At the Liard Hot Springs Lodge they have sites for RVs and tents, cabins, and a motel.  In the campground there are showers, toilets, and a dump station. There is also a restaurant on site with a convenience store. 

This is the final stretch of drive in British Columbia! You will actually hop in and out of BC and the Yukon a couple times, before reaching the official Yukon crossing right by Watson Lake. At this point, you may be eager to get to Watson Lake and the Yukon Territory, but if you have a little bit of time, there are a couple cool stops to make along the way.

Smith River Falls

Smith River Falls is a huge 35 m high (115 feet) and 10 m wide (33 feet) waterfall accessed by a 2.6 km (1.6 mile) one lane gravel road, which is not suitable for RVs. Once you get to the small parking area you’ll walk down some stairs to get to the river level.  There used to be a boardwalk here to give you a better view of the falls, but there was a wildfire in 2009 that caused the boardwalk to be removed. Without the boardwalk, the only way to get to the falls is to skirt along the river, which did NOT feel safe to us. So unless the boardwalk is rebuilt, we’d suggest skipping the trail and just viewing the falls from the parking area, which is still impressive!

Whirlpool Canyon/Whitewater Canyon

Whitewater Canyon is a quick stop off the highway that leads to a scenic area overlooking a swirling area of the Liard River. You’ll see tons of logs and debris floating and swirling in the river. It’s one of the best displays of just how powerful water can be! A local we met at the Liard River Hot Springs suggested we stop at this spot and told us that years back river boats would attempt to travel through this area and depending on which slot between the rocks they’d go through, they would have a difficult time and some would capsize and be destroyed, losing all their cargo and many lives!

Cell Service: We had no cell service in this area until close to Watson Lake, YT. Fuel: There are a couple options, including Coal River Services (gas and diesel) and Contact Creek Lodge (gas and diesel, they claim to have the best prices in the surrounding area). Contact Creek Lodge also has vehicle services, like tire services, towing, etc. Water fill up and dump station: Both the Coal River Services and Contact Creek Lodge have water and dump. WiFi: Coal River Services and Contact Creek Lodge also have WiFi. Grocery Stores: Coal River Services has a convenience store if you need any small items. Laundry: Coal River Services

Coal River Services At Mile marker 513.9 is Coal River Services, formerly Coal River Lodge & RV. The lodge has been here in a couple different iterations since 1949 and is under new management who is looking to improve and upgrade the experience for travelers. They offer full hookup RV sites, tent camping, motel rooms, washrooms and laundry facilities.  The Coal River Cafe offers what they claim is the “best bison burger on the highway,” desserts, and breakfast all day.  Contact Creek Lodge Located just across the Yukon border is the Contact Creek Lodge. They do not have a campground, but you can stay in their lodge and if you need a place just to park for the night we read that they do allow you to overnight in their parking lot. They also have a coffee shop, fuel, and a convenience store. 

Welcome to the Yukon Territory! Growing up, we never thought we would make it to the Yukon, so seeing the huge sign welcoming us to the territory was such an exciting moment for us on this journey! After crossing into the Yukon, you’ll be in Watson Lake, which has all the necessities you might need until Whitehorse, plus a very unique attraction!

Sign Post Forest

One of the most unique stops, not only on the Alaska Highway, but in all of our travels is the Sign Post Forest.  The Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake was created during the construction of the Alaska Highway in 1942. A U.S. soldier named Carl Lindley spent time in Watson Lake recovering from an injury and was tasked with repairing directional signposts. When completing the job, he added a sign that showed the direction and mileage to his hometown of Danville, Illinois.  Eventually others followed suit and there are now over 91,000 signs here from all over the world, ranging from city and street signs, to homemade signs, to so much more!

You are able to add your own sign and the town adds more posts as they fill up, so we decided to make our own sign to add to the collection! We struggled to find something to make the sign out of, so we got a Beware of Dog sign and flipped it over, put a big sticker of our logo, and drew our van, Kona, and some scenery. If you visit the Sign Post Forest, try to go find it (you can get some hints as to where it is in this video ). The Watson Lake Visitor Centre has hammers to borrow, nails, and paint and the Watson Lake Home Building Centre in town can sell you wood for a sign if you need one!

Check out the Visitor Centre

The staff in the visitor centre is very friendly and can help you with any questions you may have about the highway or area. Inside there are helpful brochures and maps, as well as displays about the Yukon and Alaska Highway and its construction.

Northern Lights Center

The Northern Lights Centre is the only planetarium in North America that focuses on the northern lights! It has a 100 seat domed theater that shows a 1 hour film called Yukon’s Northern Lights . The film is offered every day in the summer, with several showings throughout the day. You can also see exhibits on the science and folklore of the aurora borealis and about the Canadian Space Program.

Watson Lake Recreation Centre

Watson Lake has a recreation centre that is open to the general public. There is a fitness room, swimming pool, bowling alley and more! 

We did not personally eat in Watson Lake, but Laurie’s Bistro & Coffeehouse , which is located in the recreation center, looks to be like the best option.

Cell Service: We had cell service in Watson lake, but it goes away very soon after leaving. Don’t worry, you will get it back! We actually found the Yukon to have much better cell service than most of the BC part of the Alaska Highway.  Fuel: There are quite a few options including AFD Cardlock , Petro Canada Cardlock , Petro-Canada , and TEMPO Tags Watson Lake (we refueled here). Water fill up and dump station: You can fill up and empty your tanks at Downtown RV Park and Wye Lake Park (free). WiFi: Watson Lake Visitor Centre and Watson Lake Community Library both offer WiFi. Grocery Stores: Watson Lake Foods Ltd is the only grocery store in town. Laundry: There is no laundry to our knowledge. Vehicle Services: If you need any help with your rig after the long drive up BC , Eramie Trucking can help you out!

Hotel/Motel

A Nicer Motel Air Force Lodge Cozy Nest Bed & Breakfast

For a free camping option there is a spot along the Liard River that has cell service!

Downtown RV Park The Downtown RV Park is a gravel lot with RV sites with full hookups, bathrooms, showers, WiFi, and an RV wash! Watson Lake Campground This campground is just north of the town of Watson Lake and has 40 campsites ($20/night) with 8 of them being pull through. One bonus item to know about in the Yukon is that most of the government campgrounds come with free firewood! This is a huge perk in our opinion, even though we didn’t use it much. Keep in mind the wood is usually in a covered bin, but it could be wet and we noticed the wood was usually not broken down for you, so you’ll need an ax to split it. We unfortunately only had a small, dull hatchet so we couldn’t take advantage of this perk very often.

Right after leaving Watson Lake you’ll be back in remote areas, with tons of nature surrounding you. The drive starts out in the trees, but opens up to epic mountain views. It was a bit rainy and foggy for us, but even so, we were able to see so many stunning views! This part of the highway is interesting for a couple reasons. Similar to on the way to Watson Lake, you’ll pop back into BC for a bit, before getting back into the Yukon, for good this time. Also, between Rancheria and Swift River, at mile marker 699.4 you will be on the Continental Divide.  When we did this stretch, we had to book it a bit because we had already had a long day and were trying to get to a stopping point by dinnertime, but there are some things to do along the way! 

Rancheria Falls Recreation Site

There is a short trail leading to an overlook of Rancheria Falls . This is a good leg stretcher to take a break from the road! This is a day use only recreation site, so no camping is allowed.

Stop at the Continental Divide

At mile marker 699.4, you’ll be on the Continental Divide ! From here, water that flows west eventually drains into the Yukon River and then finally into the Bering Sea and water that flows east eventually drains into the Mackenzie River then flowing north and draining into the Beaufort Sea in the Arctic Ocean. There is a pullout here with information signs, outhouses, garbage, and a great view!

George Johnston Museum (Teslin)

The George Johnston Museum shines light on a man named George Johnston who was a Tlinget and was known for his trapping and photography. He shipped a vehicle to Teslin on a paddlewheeler, 13 years before the Alaska Highway was built, and would hunt in this car on frozen Teslin Lake in the winter. With his camera he captured images of inland Tlinget people near the towns of Atlin and Teslin. The museum has a small entry fee ($6/adult) and here you can see George’s car, a 1928 Chevrolet, lots of trapping equipment, learn about Tlinget culture, and see other family artifacts. 

Teslin Tlinget Heritage Center (Teslin)

Located on Teslin Lake, the Teslin Tlinget Heritage Center shares Tlinget culture through exhibits, traditional demonstrations, food, and knowledgeable staff. They also sometimes offer homemade bannock with berry jam. We tried this at Long Ago Peoples Place (more on that soon!) and it is a nice little treat!

Cell Service: We had pretty decent cell service in this stretch. At the Teslin Lake rest area we had 3 bars of cell service. Fuel: There are a handful of options including the Continental Divide Lodge , Yukon Motel & Lakeshore RV Park , and Nisutlin Trading Post . Water fill up and dump station: The Continental Divide Lodge offers water and dump for guests. WiFi: The Teslin Public Library offers free WiFi. Grocery Stores: The Nisutlin Trading Post has a small amount of groceries.  Laundry: The Yukon Motel & Lakeshore RV Park has laundry!

Teslin Rest Stop We stayed one night at this rest area right before you get to the village of Teslin. It has a really great view of the small village and the Nisutlin Bay Bridge. It’s just a gravel lot, but there is an outhouse and we had cell service, so it was a win for us! Morley River Recreation Site There are 4 sites at this free recreation site, which is located in the BC portion of this drive.

Big Creek Government Campground There are 15 sites ($20/night) with some on the river’s edge and since this is a government campground, you can expect free firewood as well. Teslin Lake Government Campground This campground has 27 sites (6 pull through) and a kitchen shelter. The cost is $12 per night and firewood is included! Continental Divide Lodge The Continental Divide Lodge offers a campground, with hookups.

Yukon Motel & Lakeshore RV Park Nisutlin Trading Post

On this part of the drive you have two options. You can keep going on the Alaska Highway or detour onto Tagish Road to the Klondike Highway, which is what we did and would recommend! To take this detour you’ll turn left (south) near Jake’s Corner onto Tagish Road (Yukon 8) then once you get to Tagish you’ll turn right (north) onto the Klondike Highway (Yukon 2) which will take you back to the Alaska Highway, with some fun stops along the way.

This detour is about 107 km (66.5 miles), whereas going the Alaska Highway from the Tagish Road turnoff to where the Klondike Highway meets back up with the Alaska Highway is only 62 km (38.5 miles). So it’s not much more driving and it really adds to the experience, in our opinion! Note: During our visit in early June 2022, a lot of the road to Carcross was gravel, but doable in any vehicle.

Visit the world’s smallest desert

Here is something you may not expect to see in the Yukon…a desert! The Carcross Desert is known as the smallest in the world at 1.6 km². However, we read that technically it isn’t a desert because the area receives too much precipitation and that it is really just a collection of dunes. Even so, it’s still impressive as it’s one of the few dune systems in northwestern North America! It formed after the last ice age, when ice melted and glaciers retreated, leaving deep valleys. Massive lakes formed around the glaciers then shrank, leaving beaches in between the mountains. Wind picked up sand from those beaches and carried them to this area, which formed the dunes. In fact, sand from the nearby Bennett Lake still helps form these dunes! There is a parking area with restrooms where you can park and get out to explore the dunes. The surrounding forested mountains add to a pretty unique and interesting landscape! We had a blast here climbing to the top of the tallest dune and seeing incredible views of the surrounding area and Bennett Lake.

Admire the views of Emerald Lake

Just ten minutes north of the Carcross Desert is Emerald Lake . This is a gorgeous lake with striking blue and green colors. There is a huge pull off (with some informative signage) that makes for the perfect spot to admire the lake, as well as have a picnic lunch in your van or RV!

Drive to Skagway!

For an even better detour, you can continue about 1.5 hours south of the Carcross Desert to Skagway, Alaska, which looks like a beautiful town. We didn’t do that this time, but it’s on the list for the future!

The Bistro (Carcross) Caribou Crossing Coffee (Carcross) Wolf’s Den Restaurant (just southeast of Whitehorse)

Cell Service: We had pretty good service from Teslin Lake to Carcross! Fuel: A few options include Johnson’s Crossing Lodge , Jake’s Corner , and Montana Services . Water fill up and dump station: Caribou RV Park has water and Johnson’s Crossing Lodge has a dump station. WiFi: There is WiFi for guests of the Caribou RV Park , but we hear it’s weak. Convenience Store: You can get some items at Johnson’s Crossing Lodge and Jake’s Corner , but if you can hold out for Whitehorse you’ll have many more options! Laundry: Both the Johnson’s Crossing Lodge and Caribou RV Park have laundry for guests.

Johnson’s Crossing Lodge Just after you cross the Teslin River you’ll find Johnson’s Crossing Lodge, which is said to be one of the original lodges on the Alaska Highway. They offer motel rooms, an RV park and campground, and a cafe. We’ve read this is one of the better places to get a really good cinnamon roll. Squanga Lake Government Campground This is another Yukon government campground with 16 sites and offers free firewood for $20 per night on the shore of Squanga Lake.  Marsh Lake Campground This is another Yukon government campground with 66 sites and offers free firewood for $20 per night. It is popular on the weekends and fills up quickly.  Six Mile River Resort   The self proclaimed “Yukon’s Finest Campground” is the Six Mile River Resort. They offer cabins, a campground, and a restaurant known as the River’s Edge Dining Room. The restaurant does not operate daily so if you’re hoping for a meal here, call ahead or check their Facebook page to find out when they will offer meals. Caribou RV Park This highly rated RV park and campground also offers cabins to stay in. There is a restaurant, walking trails, sundeck with music, car wash, dump station, and many other amenities.  Wolf Creek Campground This is a busy campground just south of Whitehorse. It costs $20 per night for a site. In the park there is a boardwalk to an overlook of the Yukon River.

Northern Lights Resort & Spa This is definitely the nicest hotel option in the area! The rooms are modern and the property itself is beautiful. And if you visit during the very late summer through winter, you may get to see the Northern Lights! Spirit Lake Motel, Restaurant and RV Park Spirit Lake has an RV campground, motel, restaurant, and ice cream!

You have made it to Whitehorse,the largest city in the Yukon! Whitehorse is named after rapids on the Yukon River, which resembled the flowing manes of charging white horses. While the area was home to First Nations for many years, it experienced a rush of prospectors during the Klondike Gold Rush and the area grew as a staging and distribution center. The area boomed again during the construction of the Alaska Highway, as one of the largest camps on the road.  Today it is the capital of the Yukon, taking the title from Dawson City in 1953. In 2021, Whitehorse’s population was 28,201 and that makes up about 70% of the entire population of the Yukon!

Miles Canyon Suspension Bridge

One of our favorite stops in Whitehorse was Miles Canyon . This canyon is located on the Yukon River, which is the second longest river in Canada at 3,190 km (1,982 miles) long.  First Nations used the nearby area as a fishing camp, and referred to it as Kwanlin, meaning “running water through canyon.” Later on, Gold Rush prospectors called it the Grand Canyon, and used it as the main thoroughfare when traveling North during the Gold Rush. Today it has a suspension bridge you can walk across to check out the canyon as well as other trails that follow the canyon!

Yukon Visitor Centre

At the Yukon Visitor Centre you can get all the information you may need about what’s happening in Whitehorse or for the road ahead. You can also use their free WiFi and enjoy a 15 minute film about the Yukon.

Check out a local event

Whitehorse boasts several festivals and events throughout the year including the Yukon River Quest Canoe and Kayak Race (mid June), Yukon River Trail Marathon (first sunday of August), and in February Yukon Quest which is a 1,000 mile dog sled race between Whitehorse and Fairbanks. You can see the event schedule here !

Walk the Millenium Trail

We loved walking the Whitehorse Millenium Trail during our time in Whitehorse. This waterfront trail traces the mighty Yukon River and connects several parks in town. It is a 2.3 mile loop, but during our visit, part of the west side of the trail was closed due to a recent mudslide so we walked back the same way we came. It’s a lovely walk and our pup Kona very much enjoyed it!

Yukon Beringia Centre

The Yukon Beringia Centre is a natural history museum focusing on the Bering Strait, which was once a 2,000 km wide connection between Asia and North America, allowing animals and humans to travel between the two continents.  Here you can learn about this incredible landmass through exhibits and other displays. One of the most fascinating things to see here is the body of a 7 week old wolf pup named Zhùr. The permafrost in this part of the world is a great preserver of paleontological finds like this wolf pup that lived 57,000 years ago! It costs $6 per adult and less for kids and seniors, making it an affordable activity while in the area!

Yukon Transportation Museum

The Yukon Transportation Museum provides an interesting look at the history of transportation in the rugged and remote area of the Yukon. You can see a variety of automobiles, planes, and train cars!  This museum costs $10 per adult and less for kids and seniors.

SS Klondike National Historic Site

The SS Klondike National Historic Site is a must in Whitehorse! The S.S. Klondike is a sternwheeler boat that ran freight between Whitehorse and D awson City along the Yukon River. There were two Klondikes that ran over the years, with the first hitting the water in 1929, and it was the first sternwheeler on the Yukon River large enough to handle cargo in excess of 300 tons without having to push a barge. It originally hauled ore, but over time began to haul passengers and cargo as well. However, the first S.S. Klondike hit a rock wall and sank in 1936 and a second S.S. Klondike was built in 1937 to resume the tasks of the first. The second is the one you see here today and she was moved here from Dawson City in 1967. Sternwheelers were a huge part of life for people who lived in the north country in the early days and during the gold rush as they were the only connection people had to the outside world. When the sternwheelers would pull up there would be crowds of people waiting to learn all they could about the world.  You can admire the sternwheeler from the outside for free or go on a tour with Parks Canada for a small fee. We didn’t go on this tour, but we did go on others in Dawson City, Yukon and they are WELL worth the very small price. 

The MacBride Museum

Located right on the banks of the Yukon River, The MacBride Museum provides an encompassing look at the history of the Yukon. It is housed in the Government Telegraph Office, built in 1900 with over 40,000 artifacts and many galleries showcasing stories from Yukon First Nations, the Klondike Gold Rush, and so much more.  This museum costs $12 per adult and less for kids and seniors.

Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre

At the Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre , which is free to visit, you can learn about the First Nations’ history, traditions, and culture.

The Horse of Whitehorse

Don’t forget to snap a photo with the Horse of Whitehorse ! It is a bit weird to get to, but if you drive down Range Road and turn right behind the fire department, you can park there and snap a photo!

Whitehorse is hands down the best food city you’ll encounter when driving the Alaska Highway! Here are some of the places we tried during our time in Whitehorse that we loved! Klondike Rib & Salmon (CLOSED) If you only eat at one place in Whitehorse, make it Klondike Rib & Salmon! It is housed in the two oldest buildings still in use in Whitehorse and is a very popular restaurant. They focus on northern foods, like Fresh Northern Ocean Fish, smoked meats, and wild game meats. We tried the Klondike burger and a full rack of ribs. Both were super delicious and filling!

Night Market During our time in Whitehorse we also ate at Night Market (a spin off of Wood Street Ramen ), which offers Thai inspired dishes including Pad Thai, Green Curry, and other rice and noodle dishes. We highly recommend this place and if you go be sure to get the Bucket o Belly! It is, as the name suggests, a small bucket of pork belly with chicharones drizzled in sweet chili sauce…it is heavenly!  Also, the inside has a really cool decor theme with huge murals on the walls, string lights, bamboo, and other fun decor!  Midnight Sun Coffee Roasters We also popped into Midnight Sun Coffee Roasters one afternoon and grabbed a couple iced coffees and they hit the spot! They also offer a large variety of whole beans!

Next time we’d love to visit:

• Miner’s Daughter/Dirty Northern
• Bullet Hole Bagels 
• KITA Japanese Kitchen + Bar

Cell Service: We had full bars of cell service in Whitehorse, but once you get a bit out of town it goes away quickly! Fuel: There are many options for fuel to choose from in town. Water fill up and dump station: You can find water at Integra Tire and Auto Centre (they offer water for customers with RVs and other campers), plus Tags Food and Gas . Pioneer RV Park & Campground has a dump station! WiFi: The Whitehorse Public Library  is perfect for those who work on the road and just need WiFi for surfing the web and other low data requiring work. For content creators like us, the upload speed was very slow for our YouTube video uploading needs. Because of our need to upload videos while in town, we tried basically every place with WiFi, including Tim Hortons and Yukon Visitor Centre , but found the best WiFi to be at Starbucks . We were actually able to upload a video here in a reasonable amount of time, plus use our stars to get some free drinks! Grocery Stores: Whitehorse has tons of options for groceries, including Walmart , Save-On Foods , Real Canadian Superstore , and Wyke’s Your Independent Grocer . Laundry: There are a couple laundromats in town, including Norgetown Laundry & Dry Cleaners and Public Laundromat . We used the Public Laundromat on our way back from Alaska and WARNING: the dryers are extremely hot! I had it on the lowest setting and I remember folding my clothes and some of the clothes were very hot to the touch, almost burning hot. Unfortunately a few items of our clothes shrunk, melted, or were ruined in their dryers. So maybe try Norgetown instead or just air dry your clothes!

There are a handful of options for boondocking near Whitehorse, but only a couple we could find that had cell service and were very close to the town. If those things aren’t important to you, there are plenty more to choose from.  Gravel parking lot on Fish Lake Road We stayed here a couple nights and it was good for one or two nights. It is basically just a parking lot, which overlooks the area (the views rock!), but it does have a bit of slope to it, so you’ll want to pick your spot carefully to navigate that. It did have cell service though! There are also trash cans, but for some reason people think it’s better to just leave their trash on the ground…please don’t do that! 

Pioneer RV Park & Campground Campground and RV park just south of town with full hookups, dump stations, laundry facilities, showers, store, high pressure RV and car wash, and more! Hi Country RV Park This RV park is located close to Whitehorse along the Alaska Highway and offers full hookups, showers, laundry facilities, cafe, and more.  

Edgewater Hotel Best Western Gold Rush Inn Raven Inn Whitehorse

After leaving Whitehorse, the next stretch of the drive along the Alaska Highway will take you to Haines Junction, where you can find Kluane National Park. This stretch of the road, at least for us, was off and on gravel, but it was manageable. And the views are phenomenal! 

Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs

If you’re looking for another hot spring experience (or a more luxurious one), check out Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs , just a 13 minute drive north of the Alaska Highway after leaving Whitehorse via the Klondike Highway and Takini Hot Springs Road. 

Long Ago Peoples Place is a recreation of a traditional First Nations village where Champagne and Aishihik First Nations member Harold Johnson and Little Salmon Carmacks First Nation member Meta Williams share the history and culture of the Southern Tutchone people. And it was a HUGE highlight of our drive! During the cultural tour they walk you through the forest and teach you about the different structures, including how they were built and used throughout the year. The tour will transport you back to a time when only wood, stone, and animal parts were used for everything they needed. And the best part is that it does not feel touristy at all! Tours can be booked ahead of time by calling them or emailing them. Our visit was a very last minute decision and they were super kind and accommodating to allow us to go on a tour, but please contact them in advance to book. It was $41.50 (during our visit) per person, which included some bannock and tea as well!

Da Kų Cultural Centre

At the Da Kų Cultural Centre you can learn about Champagne and Aishihik First Nations way of life and culture through exhibits, tours, and artifacts.   Also in the Da Kų Cultural Centre is the Kluane National Park and Reserve Visitor Centre . This is where you can get all the information you’ll need for any adventures you’re planning on in the park. 

Dezadeash River Trail

The Dezadeash River Trail in Haines Junction is a great option if you’re short on time or aren’t going to Kluane National Park and Reserve. During this 3.2 km (2 mile) round trip hike you’ll get decent mountain views, walk through a forest, and walk along the river. 

Village Bakery & Deli Bean North Coffee Roasting Co Ltd

Cell Service: We had off and on cell service in this area, with it mostly being off Fuel: For fuel you can stop at Otter Falls Cutoff , Haines Junction FasGas , Petro Express , and Race Trac . Water fill up and dump station: You can find water and dump at Otter Falls Cutoff , Petro Express , and Haines Junction FasGas . WiFi: You can get WiFi at the Village Bakery & Deli !  Grocery Stores: After leaving Whitehorse grocery stores will be hard to come by until Tok, AK. You’ll find plenty of convenience stores attached to gas stations, but only one grocery store, The Little Green Apple in Haines Junction.

Pine Lake Campground This is a Yukon government campground with 42 dry sites for $20 per night. Amenities include firewood, outhouses, drinking water, and good fishing in the lake.  Otter Falls Cutoff The Otter Falls Cutoff offers a motel and RV campground with full hookups and dump station.  FasGas RV Park The FasGas station in Haines Junction offers an RV park with hookups during the summer.

Hotels/Motels

Wanderer’s Inn Backpackers Hostel   Parkside Inn   Raven’s Rest Inn  

Kluane National Park (pronounced “clue-on-knee”) is a stunning park that covers over 20,000 square kilometers of mountain wilderness, tons of wildlife, the largest non-polar icefields in the world, and the highest peak in Canada and second highest in North America, Mount Logan at 5,959 m (19,551 ft).  It is one of the most jaw dropping sections of the Alaska Highway and is well worth spending a day or two. The park itself is both on the Alaska Highway, west of Haines Junction, as well as south of Haines Junction and we will share things to do for both of these regions below.

The Kluane National Park and Reserve Visitor Centre is located in Haines Junction. This is a large facility where you could spend an hour or a whole day learning about the park and its history. You can check out the 3D topographic map, watch the park film, see footage of the first mountaineers climbing Mount Logan, join in interactive exhibits, speak with the friendly park staff, and more.

Kathleen Lake

Kathleen Lake is a beautiful, easy to access lake with an epic mountain backdrop, where you can fish, kayak, and hike. If you only have time for one spot, this is a good one, as it’s very quick!

King’s Throne Peak

Distance (round trip): 12.7 km | 7.9 miles Elevation: 1,373 m | 4,507 feet Reviews & Current Conditions At 12.7 km round trip (7.9 miles) and 1,373 meters (4,507 feet) of elevation gain, the King’s Throne Peak Trail is a beast, but don’t be discouraged by the height and distance. One great thing about this trail is that you don’t have to make it all the way to the end to have amazing views! 

The beginning of the trail goes through the woods along Kathleen Lake with limited views of the water, but after about 1.4 miles you’ll begin to climb and be treated to wonderful views of the lake and mountains in the distance. The trail is VERY steep and the terrain is slick gravel, so you’ll want to have shoes with good grip. We knew we wouldn’t make it all the way to King’s Throng during our hike, as we were still a bit early in the season and the upper part of the trail was snow covered. However, on the way to King’s Throne you’ll come across the “seat,” which is a popular spot to stop if you don’t want to go all the way to the top and is about 10 km (6 miles) round trip.

Our goal was to make it to the seat, but there was some weather rolling in and we could hear thunder in the distance, so we decided to turn around early, which we were bummed about, but even going about 3.2 km (2 miles) up the trail the views were insane! And now we just have more reason to go back! 😃

Soldier’s Summit Trail

The Soldier’s Summit Trail is a short trail (3.5 km / 2.2 miles) that follows an old stretch of the original Alaska Highway and takes you to a viewing platform where the Alaska Highway ribbon cutting ceremony was held in 1942. At the viewing platform there are information boards with audio tracks that tell the story of the construction of the highway from different perspectives.  While the historic significance of this trail is worth visiting on its own, it also has great views of Kluane Lake and is home to the iconic red chairs that are placed within Canada’s national parks.

More trails to check out

While we can’t speak to these trails personally, some others that we were interested in hiking were:

Saint Elias Lake Distance (round trip): 7.7 km | 4.8 miles Elevation gain: 324 m |1,062 feet Sheep Creek Trail Distance (round trip): 12.9 km | 8 miles Elevation gain: 730 m | 2,395 feet

Take a flightseeing tour over Kluane National Park or Icefield discovery

Kluane National Park is absolutely massive and almost all of it is inaccessible by foot so to get the ultimate view of it, a flightseeing tour would be epic and a bucket list experience!  There are a handful of operators who offer flightseeing tours including Kluane Glacier Air Tours Ltd . Another life changing experience would be to go with Icefield Discovery and stay a night or more at their Glacier Camp. The experience will teach you how to travel safely on glaciers, how glaciers work, and their importance to the environment. Yes, it is pricey, but wow it would be incredible!

There are no services in Kluane National Park and Reserve and cell service was very limited, to non-existent. The closest services will be in Haines Junction, which we listed in the previous section.

There are many boondocking options to choose from along Kluane Lake and a couple near Kathleen Lake. Below are the two we stayed at. Camping near river We camped at this spot one night and it was spectacular! You can drive onto the rocks right next to the river and it feels like you’re camping on the river bed. Either direction you look up or down the river you have amazing mountain and forest views. It’s a very quiet and peaceful spot that is easy to get to!   Kluane Cove We stayed at this spot for our final night in the Yukon. It’s located right on Kluane Lake, has amazing views of the Ruby Range mountains, and is easy to access! Kluane Lake is the largest lake in the Yukon and covers over 154 square miles.  Many people had reported seeing grizzlies here around the time we went, but we did not see any. But please keep a clean camp, keep your pets on a leash, and make noise in order to not startle any bears.

Kathleen Lake Campground The Kathleen Lake Campground is located in Kluane National Park and Reserve and is the only established campground in the park. There are 38 campsites with drinking water taps, firewood, bear-proof storage lockers, and outhouses. Sites are $26 per night and are first come, first served. If you do plan on having a campfire, you’ll need to purchase a campfire permit for $9.25 per site per day. oTENTik Another fun accommodation in Kluane National Park are oTENTik rentals. These are a cross between a tent and a rustic cabin that looks like a glamping experience and they look super cool! When you arrive at the site your bed and campsite are already set up for you! These are great for a small group of up to 6 people with 3 sleeping areas including 2 queen size mattresses and 1 double. Also inside is a table and chairs, wood-burning stove with wood, 2 burner propane stove (propane not included), and other amenities! There are five of these available in Kathleen Lake Campground. Reservations are highly recommended. 

Backcountry Camping

You can also camp in the backcountry in the park, which would be an amazing experience! You’ll need to purchase a backcountry camping permit if you’d like to pursue this option and you can learn more about the rules and requirements at the park website . 

This was a very exciting part of the drive for us. After a week of driving the Alaska Highway, we left Kluane Lake bright and early to finish the drive to Alaska! And as if the excitement of getting to Alaska wasn’t enough, we had three of our best wildlife sightings ever on this stretch of the drive. Shortly after leaving our campsite at Kluane Lake, I somehow noticed a grizzly bear off in the brush on a hillside (our first grizzly ever! ). We also encountered a mama black bear and her adorable cubs right on the side of the road, but in between the two encounters was quite possibly the coolest of them all…we saw a wolf! We noticed two cyclists in the road, one of which was off his bike, and we were a bit confused. And then we noticed a lone wolf walking in the road. The cyclist later told us that the wolf started to approach him and he got off his bike with his bear spray ready. Absolutely terrifying!

Beyond the wildlife sightings, this stretch of the road was the worst stretch of road we had in Canada on the Alaska Highway. When we drove it there were some frost heaves, but we didn’t find them to be too bad, although others may disagree. Over the years this stretch of drive has been very challenging for construction teams. The road is built on permafrost which if that melts can cause the road to sink down, then when it refreezes it expands and causes the frost heaves and cracked pavement. The technology for repairing the road has improved so it isn’t as bad as it has been before, but there are still always repairs that need to be made and are currently being worked on so keep your eyes out for orange flags on the side of the road and slow down. 

There isn’t much to do on this stretch other than admire the mountainous and lake filled scenery and at this point you’ll most likely just want to get to Alaska since you’ll be so close! 

Cell Service: There is not much cell service past Haines Junction to the Alaska border. We had just enough service after leaving Kluane Lake to get a very exciting text message from friends that their daughter was born, but it almost immediately went away and we didn’t have reliable service until Tok, Alaska. Fuel: There are quite a few fuel options on this stretch, including FasGas (Destruction Bay), Talbot Arm Motel Fas Gas (Destruction Bay), Kluane Energy (Burwash Landing), Fas Gas Plus (Beaver Creek), and 1202 Motor Inn (Beaver Creek). Water fill up and dump station: The Beaver Creek Visitor Centre has water and the Beaver Creek RV Park & Motel has both water and dump. WiFi: Beaver Creek Visitor Centre Grocery Stores: None Laundry: Both Discovery Yukon Lodgings and Buckshot Betty’s have laundry for guests.

Congdon Creek Campground This is a popular Yukon government campground with 62 first come, first served sites for $20 per night. If you are tent camping you are required to camp in one of the 20 sites within the electric fencing, which will keep you safe from bears. Lake Creek Campground The Lake Creek Campground is a Yukon government campground with 27 sites for $20 per night. Snag Junction Snag Junction Campground is a Yukon most westerly campground and has 15 sites for $20 per night. 

Mount Logan Lodge Mount Logan Lodge is located in a gorgeous setting beneath the nearby mountains and offers a variety of really nice accommodations that range from luxury lodge rooms to outdoor experiences. They offer a variety of packages for almost anyone’s preferences.  Destruction Bay Lodge This is a no frills RV campground and motel near Kluane Lake. Discovery Yukon Lodgings This establishment offers cabins, RV sites with full hookups, hot showers, tent sites, and more.  Buckshot Betty’s   Located in Beaver Creek Buckshot Betty’s offers motel rooms, WiFi, kitchenettes, laundry facilities, and has a restaurant on site. 

WELCOME TO ALASKA!!! There are no words to express the feelings we had when we caught our first glimpse of the Welcome to Alaska sign. After 5 months of driving through the United States and up Canada, we FINALLY made it! It was an emotional moment and one we will cherish forever. After getting your obligatory photo with the Welcome to Alaska sign, it’s time to head to US customs! This is a very simple border. During our visit, there was only one lane and one person working, so it did take a bit of time, but it went smoothly for us. The agent asked us about citrus, tomatoes, peppers, and raw chicken/meat. He didn’t care if we had pears or cooked chicken and beef, but we did see a bucket of produce that others had to leave behind. 

For those of you with NEXUS, like us, you will not be able to use it here, so be prepared to wait in the regular line. NOTE: Once you cross the Alaska border you’ll need to roll your clocks back 1 hour because the time changes to Alaska Standard Time. 

After crossing into Alaska, the rest of the drive was pretty quick for us. We were too exhausted from the many long days of driving to really stop and do anything (plus, it didn’t appear there was that much to do). The scenery on this part of the drive was a lot different than the last part of the Yukon. It’s more densely forested and boggy, with mountains in the distance. The road on this stretch was also the worst, in our opinion. It felt like as soon as we crossed into Alaska the road was much worse. There were lots of potholes and we also got stuck in a long construction delay.

Tok will be the first little town you’ll encounter in Alaska and has most of the necessities you’ll need to restock and be ready for the road ahead. We stayed here for a few days once we got to Alaska and on our way out of Alaska, mostly to just have some amenities, but other than that, it doesn’t offer too much to see or do.

Need a bite to eat in Tok? Fast Eddy’s Restaurant always looked busy and Soho Thai Takeaway & Espresso Cafe looks tasty!

Cell Service: We had good cell service in Tok on both AT&T and Verizon. Fuel: The Naabia Niign gas station on the way to Tok is a good option and said to be cheaper. Once in Tok you’ll have a plethora of fueling options, including Shell , Tesoro , Chevron , and Vitus Energy . Water fill up and dump stations: The Chevron in Tok has a dump station and water. WiFi: The Visitor Centre / library has WiFi, but we cannot speak to how strong it is. Grocery Stores: Three Bears Alaska is the only grocery store in town. It is a small town grocery store with a decent selection, but much higher prices and the variety is limited. So you may need to be flexible on what you eat! Laundry: Vitus Energy has a public laundromat, but many of the campgrounds offer laundry facilities as well.

Campgrounds 

Tok River State Recreation Site   The Tok River State Recreation Site is located on the Tok River east of town. There are 27 dry campsites that cost $20 a night.  Tundra RV Park   This is a large RV park with 78 sites with hookups, showers, dump station, vehicle wash, and more.  Sourdough Campground We stayed here our first few nights in Alaska. We were there in mid June and it was a very quiet campground. They have all the usual amenities like showers, laundry, a communal space for a campfire and an RV wash. Normally they have a fun pancake toss at night where you can win free breakfast, but it was unfortunately not happening during our visit.  Alaskan Stoves Campground   On our way out of Alaska we stayed here a few nights and liked it better than Sourdough Campground. It was not very busy at the end of August and they have all the usual amenities, including showers and laundry. What we also liked about it was that each site came with a grill! The price was also the cheapest in the area!

A Hyde Away Inn B&B This bed and breakfast is pet friendly. 

Fox ‘n Fireweed Cabins Burnt Paw Tok RV Village Campground & Cabins

HOORAY! You made it to the end of the Alaska Highway! We ended our Alaska Highway journey in Tok, but did eventually drive the Tok to Delta Junction portion. While we did not stop and do anything along the way, we can say that this is a beautiful stretch of drive.

Cell Service: We had very limited cell service when out in this area. Fuel: You can find fuel at the Silver Fox Roadhouse , Delta Petro-Wash , and USA Gasoline . Water fill up and dump stations: The Delta Petro-Wash has a free dump station and water. WiFi: The Delta Visitor Centre and Delta Community Library have WiFi, with the libraries working 24/7. Grocery Stores: The grocery options are VERY limited out here. They used to have a store, but it appears to be closed. Laundry: Snowed Inn has laundry for guests!

The Fire Big Delta Brewing Co. Buffalo Center Drive-In (known for their buffalo burgers!)

Delta State Recreation Site Located just outside of town, the Delta State Recreation Site offers 25 dry campsites.  Quartz Lake State Recreation Area This large, popular campground is located on Quartz Lake and has 103 sites split between 2 camping areas, Lake Campground and Lost Lake Campground, both cost $15 per site. Snowed Inn RV, Campers & Tents This campground offers RV sites with full hookups, dump station, laundry, shower facilities, and more. They are only open seasonally May-September.

Alaska Frontier Inn Trophy Lodge Kelly’s Alaska Country Inn

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Pin this guide to driving the Alaska Highway to help you plan!

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14 thoughts on “ the ultimate guide to driving the alaska highway in 2024 ”.

Thank you for creating and sharing this with your readers. I watched every episode of your journey and loved every minute. You two make a great team.

Thank you so much for reading Steve!

Great travel information! Can’t wait to do this epic drive.

It’s the best! We hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

This is AWESOME!! Thanks so much for all the details. I love that you shared your exact google map with spots marked. This is such a great bonus. For some reason this trip just seems so daunting to me and I don’t usually have trouble planning trips. This helped make it seem doable. You two are so much fun to watch and offer entertainment mixed with such solid travel destinations. YOU ROCK!

We are so glad you found it helpful! It is a very daunting trip, we struggled too! But it is SO worth it 😍😍

Thank you for this super helpful resource. I am planning a trip to Alaska this summer and found all of your detailed information super useful. The only thing that would make it better is a printer-friendly version so I could print out the most helpful parts to bring along on the journey (unless I missed it and you already have that). Thank you again for the great YouTube videos and super helpful blog posts!

Hi Kate! We are hoping to create an eBook of this in the future, but just don’t have the bandwidth currently to make it happen. We are glad you found it helpful!

Thank you for the great information. I’m planning a motorcycle trip to Alaska, and this was great reading.

Thank you for reading! Enjoy Alaska!

Amazing content, myself and significant other are planning on pursing the Alcan come next year and had a quick question. How did you go about charging your devices along the way? I’ll be bringing along a DJI drone and some photo equipment. Thank you in advance!

Hi! We are able to charge devices in our van with the electrical set up in our van, which includes batteries and an inverter. You can learn more about our van here: https://adventuresofaplusk.com/blog/van-conversion-cost-tour-mistakes

Good day. You do mention of a Starlink type of solution which I don’t think you use (at least in the videossssss that I have seen so far.

As we are planning to visit Canada (including NWT / Yukon and Alaska) in the coming year followed by the US the following years, is this something you envision acquiring1/using ?

Thanks. Keep up the good work

Hi! We actually got Starlink this year (we share a bit about that here ) and LOVE it! We have used it the entire summer in Canada and it has been a lifesaver. It definitely will make a future trip to Alaska and BC, Yukon, and NWT a LOT easier in the future!

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What to do in Moscow

Ballet at the bolshoy, cathedral of christ the saviour, drinking & nightlife, entertainment, house-museums, the museum of modern history, the new tretyakov gallery, novodevichiy convent, patriarch’s ponds, the pushkin museum of fine arts, sandunovsky baths, the tretyakov gallery.

Travel in Moscow is easier than you might think: the city’s general layout is a series of concentric circles and radial lines emanating from Red Square and the Kremlin, and the centre is compact enough to explore on foot. Moscow’s sights can also be mapped as strata of its history: the old Muscovy that Russians are eager to show; the now retro-chic Soviet-era sites such as VDNK and Lenin’s Mausoleum; and the exclusive restaurants and shopping malls that mark out the new Russia. A CityPass is a good bet if you plan on seeing several of the city's heavyweight attractions.

Despite its size, Moscow's concentric layout is easier to grasp than you'd imagine, and the city's famous metro ensures that almost everywhere of interest is within fifteen minutes' walk of a station. Red Square and the Kremlin are the historic nucleus of the city, a magnificent stage for political drama, signifying a great sweep of history that includes Ivan the Terrible, Peter the Great, Stalin and Gorbachev. Here you'll find Lenin's Mausoleum and St Basil's Cathedral, the famous GUM department store, and the Kremlin itself, whose splendid cathedrals and Armoury Museum head the list of attractions. Immediately east of Red Square lies the Kitay-gorod, traditionally the commercial district, and originally fortified like the Kremlin. Stretches of the ramparts remain behind the Metropol and Rossiya hotels, and the medieval churches of Zaryade and the shops along Nikolskaya ulitsa may tempt you further into the quarter, where you'll find the former headquarters of the Communist Party. Take a private Kremlin tour to skip the lines for the Kremlin grounds and cathedrals.

The Kremlin and Kitay-gorod are surrounded by two quarters defined by rings of boulevards built over the original ramparts of medieval times, when Moscow's residential areas were divided into the "White Town" or Beliy Gorod, and the humbler "Earth Town" or Zemlyanoy Gorod. Situated within the leafy Boulevard Ring that encloses the Beliy Gorod are such landmarks as the Bolshoy Theatre and the Lubyanka headquarters of the secret police – with its "KGB Museum" – while the Zemlyanoy Gorod that extends to the eight-lane Garden Ring is enlivened by the trendy old and new Arbat streets, with three Stalin skyscrapers dominating the Ring itself.

Beyond this historic core Moscow is too sprawling to explore on foot. Krasnaya Presnya, Fili and the southwest describes a swathe which includes the former Russian Parliament building (known as the White House); Tolstoy's house and the Novodeviche Convent and Cemetery; Victory Park, with its war memorials and Jewish museum; and Moscow State University in the Sparrow Hills – the largest of the Stalin skyscrapers.

Across the river from the Kremlin, Zamoskvorechye and the south are the site of the old and new Tretyakov Gallery's superlative collection of Russian art. Private guided tours are recommended for art enthusiasts. Here too you'll find Gorky Park, the Donskoy and Danilov monasteries that once stood guard against the Tartars, and the romantic ex-royal estates of Tsaritsyno and Kolomenskoe – the latter known for staging folklore festivals and historical pageants.

Taganka and Zayauze, east of the centre, likewise harbour fortified monasteries – the Andronikov, Novospasskiy and Simonov – and the erstwhile noble estates of Kuskovo and Kuzminki, but the main lure for tourists is the Izmaylovo art market. Inside the Izmaylovo Kremlin, a cultural centre, there are also a range of attractions, from the Bread Museum and the Vodka History Museum to the fascinating Museum of Russian Toys.

Moscow's Northern Suburbs cover a vast area with a sprinkling of sights. Foremost is the Memorial and Museum of Cosmonautics and VDNK. For anyone interested in the glory days of the space race, and its monumental landmarks and propaganda, a visit is a must, like on this guided tour . In the vicinity are the Ostankino Palace, Moscow's Botanical Gardens and TV Tower. West from here, the Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines will appeal to visitors with an interest in Soviet social history, too.

Outside Moscow there's scope for day-excursions to the Trinity Monastery of St Sergei, the Abramtsevo artists' colony, Tchaikovsky's house in Kiln, Lenin's estate at Gorki Leninskie, and the battlefield of Borodino, where the battle is re-enacted every September. You can also head out to the village of Aksakovo for a beautiful two-hour troika ride. Further afield, the historic towns of Vladimir and Suzdal are graced by splendid cathedrals and monasteries attesting that they were the seat of a principality when Moscow was merely an encampment. Suzdal is one of the loveliest towns in Russia, and definitely merits an overnight stay. It's also possible to visit the Aviation Museum at Monino air base, en route to Vladimir, if you take the trouble to get permission ahead of time.

This article includes affiliate links; all recommendations are editorially independent.

Top image: Komsomolskaya metro station © Gubin Yury/Shutterstock

While Moscow's Bolshoy Ballet (also spelt "Bolshoi") is going through uncertain times, plagued by infighting and rivalries (not least the recent acid attack on Artistic Director Sergei Filin), few would deny themselves the chance to see this legendary company. During the season, evening performances start at 7pm, and Saturday and Sunday matinees at noon; there are no shows on Monday.

You can see what’s on currently and for a few months ahead on the Bolshoy’s website – although the English version sometimes lags behind the Russian one. The ballet company is usually abroad over summer and sometimes also in the autumn, leaving the junior corps de ballet to entertain visitors – although star dancers are certain to be in Moscow for the opening of the new season in September. For more on Russian ballet visit www.for-ballet-lovers-only.com . For those not interested in ballet but more in the historical aspect of the Bolshoy theatre, take a guided historic tour of the grounds.

If you're more interest in Folk Dances, visit the Kostroma Folk Dance show , the most authentic one in Moscow.

Built as a symbol of gratitude to divinity for having aided the Russians’ defeat of Napoleon in 1812, the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (daily 10am–6pm), opposite the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts at Volkhonka ul. 15, was demolished in 1931 in favour of a monument to socialism. The project was soon abandoned and years later, under Krushev’s rule, the site was turned into the world’s largest public swimming pool. In 1994 the Cathedral was rebuilt and is now a symbol of Moscow’s (and Russia’s) post-Communist religious revival.

Moscow isn’t a city that goes to bed early. Many venues act as a café by day, restaurant in the early evening, and both bar and club at night. This can cover anything from an arthouse café with a spot of live music to a dance warehouse, or a fancy nightclub with a restaurant and casino. Most cater to a certain crowd, whether it’s creative professionals, students, shell-suited "flatheads" or designer-draped models. While formal dress codes are rare, face control (feys kontrol) is widespread. Russians distinguish between “democratic” face control (aimed at keeping out hooligans and bandits), and the kind that favours the rich (never mind how they behave). It’s unwise to rile club security staff, however rude they might be.

There are scores of trendy bars and clubs on Krasny Oktyabr, a former chocolate factory building located across the river from Kropotkinskaya and now home to some of Moscow’s hippest nightlife.

Learn how to walk, talk, drink and party like a Russian on a small group with Russian spirits.

Moscow's gastronomic scene has improved enormously over the last five years, with hundreds of new cafés and restaurants offering all kinds of cuisine and surroundings, aimed at anyone with a disposable income – from mega-rich New Russians and expense-account expatriates to fashion-conscious wealthy teenagers.

For cheap eats head to a canteen, where you can compile a tray of dishes smorgasbord-style. Take advantage of the great-value business lunches offered by cafés and restaurants during the week between noon and 4pm.

For well over a century, Moscow has been one of the world’s great centres of classical music, opera and ballet, most famously represented by the Bolshoy Theatre but also by its orchestras and choirs. Theatre can be tricky for non-Russian speakers though circus and puppetry surpass the language barrier. Moscow’s film industry and annual international film festival dwarf St Petersburg’s, but at other times most cinemas screen Hollywood blockbusters.

All this can be surprisingly good value, provided you ask for the cheapest ticket available ( samiy deshoviy bilyet ).

Gorky Park on ul. Krymskiy Val 9 (R100; Park Kultury) is a large park occupying an area of over 700 acres along the river. In the winter the frozen-over paths become one of the city’s largest ice rinks, while in the summer Muscovites stroll the area savouring an ice cream.

Admirers of Bulgakov, Chekhov, Gorky and Tolstoy will find their former homes preserved as museums. Anton Chekhov lived at Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 6, in what is now the Chekhov House-Museum (Tues, Thurs & Sat 11am–6pm, Wed & Fri 2–8pm; R100, student R60; Barrikadnaya), containing humble personal effects, while the Gorky House-Museum (Wed–Sun 11am–6pm, closed last Thurs of the month; free; Arbatskaya) on the corner of Povarskaya ulitsa and ulitsa Spiridonovka is worth seeing purely for its raspberry-pink Art Nouveau decor. Leo Tolstoy admirers should head to the wonderfully preserved Tolstoy Memorial Estate on ul. Lva Tolstogo 21 (Tues, Wed & Fri 10am–6pm, Thurs 1–9pm, Sat & Sun 11am–6pm; R200, student R60; Park Kultury) where the Tolstoy family lived after moving to Moscow from their country estate in 1881, and where the novelist wrote War and Peace . The Bulgakov Museum at Bolshaya Sadovaya ul. 10 (Sun–Thurs 1–11pm, Fri & Sat until 1am; free; t 495/970-0619; Mayakovskaya), is the house where the novelist lived from 1921 to 1924. There are nightly tours (1–6am; R550; phone a week in advance for tour in English).

The Museum of Modern History at Tverskaya ul. 21 (Tues, Wed, Fri 10am–6pm, Thurs & Sat 11am–7pm, Sun 10am–5pm, closed last Fri of the month; R100; Tverskaya) brings the Communist past alive with striking displays of Soviet propaganda posters, photographs and state gifts, although there’s a frustrating lack of English translation.

Opposite the entrance to Gorky Park at Krymskiy Val 10, the New Tretyakov Gallery (Tues–Sun 10am–7.30pm; R360, student R220; Park Kultury) takes a breakneck gallop through twentieth-century Russian art, from the avant-garde of the 1910–1920s to contemporary artists. Full and illuminating commentary in English is a bonus.

A cluster of shining domes above a fortified rampart belongs to the lovely Novodevichiy Convent (daily 10am–5pm; closed Tues & last Mon of month; R150; Sportivnaya), founded by Ivan the Terrible in 1524. At its heart stands the white Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk. In its cemetery lie numerous famous writers, musicians and artists, including Gogol, Chekhov, Stanislavsky, Bulgakov and Shostakovich.

One of Moscow’s most exclusive neighbourhoods, Patriarch’s Ponds is a pleasant spot (there’s actually just one pond) for a summer stroll or an ice-skate on its frozen waters in the depths of winter. The area is also known for being the location of the opening scene of Mikhail Bulgakov’s magical realist novel The Master and Margarita .

Founded in 1898 in honour of the famous Russian poet, the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts at Volkhonka ul. 12 (Tues–Sun 10am–7pm; R150–300, separate fee for Impressionist wing; Kropotkinskaya) holds a hefty collection of European paintings , from Italian High Renaissance works to Rembrandt, and an outstanding display of Impressionist works.

Get the city grit out of your skin at the exquisitely elaborate Sandunovsky baths (Neglinnaya ul. 14 bldg 3–7 w www.sanduny.ru ; Teatralnaya), patronized by Muscovites since 1896. Join Russian businessmen and socialites in the banya , a wooden hut heated with a furnace, where you are invited to sweat out impurities, get beaten energetically with birch twigs, and finally plunge into ice-cold water. Men’s and women’s baths are separate, with the women’s section more like a modern spa. A three-hour session costs R1000. Daily 8am–10pm.

Founded in 1892 by the financier Pavel Tretyakov, the Tretyakov Gallery at Lavrushinskiy per. 10 (Tues–Sun 10am–7.30pm; R360, student R220; Tretyakovskaya) displays an outstanding collection of pre-Revolutionary Russian art. Russian icons are magnificently displayed, and the exhibition continues through to the late nineteenth century, with the politically charged canvases of the iconic realist Ilya Repin and the Impressionist portraits of Valentin Serov, including The Girl with Peaches , one of the gallery’s masterpieces.

To see Soviet triumphalism at its most prolific, visit the Exhibition of Economic Achievements, or VDNKh (Prospekt Mira; VDNK/Prospekt Mira), with its statue upon statue of ordinary workers in heroic poses. Adding to the scene is the permanent trade-fair-cum-shopping-centre housed in the grandiose Stalinist architecture of the All-Union Agricultural Exhibition of 1939, and the People’s Friendship Fountain, flanked by Soviet maidens, each symbolizing a Soviet republic. One of the most hubristic Soviet monuments ever built is the Space Obelisk , which bears witness to Soviet designs on the stratosphere. Unveiled in 1964 – three years after Gagarin orbited the earth – it’s a sculpture of a rocket blasting nearly 100m into the sky on a plume of energy clad in shining titanium. Moscow’s giant Ferris wheel, small amusement park and numerous food vendors help to create a fairground-like atmosphere. For a fantastic view over the VDNK, take the lift to the 25th floor of Hotel Cosmos across Prospekt Mira.

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