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TRAVEL GUIDE

Located in the horn of Africa , Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee. it features a rich history and culture, known for its ancient ruins, stunning landscapes, and unique wildlife, including the famous Gelada baboons, making it a fascinating destination for travelers interested in culture, history, and natural beauty.

LANDSCAPES & NATURE

Ethiopia is blessed with a variety of landscapes that will captivate your sight, a land of diverse landscapes, ranging from rugged mountains and deep canyons to vast deserts and fertile highlands. It is home to stunning natural wonders such as the Simien Mountains, the Blue Nile Falls, and the Danakil Depression.

Coffee was first discovered in Ethiopia, hosting the Ethiopian coffee ceremony , a social event where the coffee beans are roasted and boiled in a vessel; mainly for the purpose of getting together with relatives, neighbors, or other visitors . Its coffee is considered to be some of the best in the world thanks to its high altitude growing conditions and diverse coffee grain, an important part of their culture. 

GASTRONOMY  

Thanks to its diversity and mix of cultures, Ethiopia offers a wide range of flavorful dishes to delight your palate, highlighting its variety of stews and vegetables (often spicy) always accompanied by Injera (a spongy sourdough flatbread ). Some of the popular dishes include injera (a sourdough flatbread), doro wat (spicy chicken stew), and kitfo (raw minced beef or lamb served with spices).

ARCHITECTURE & HISTORY

Ethiopia’s history dates back to the paleolithic age, being one of the oldest countries of the world and the place where the origin of mankind might have begun. Skeletons of early humans have been found in here, which confirms this theory. Ethiopia’s architecture and history are closely intertwined, with ancient rock-hewn churches like Lalibela, medieval castles in Gondar, and the historic city of Harar, which is considered one of Islam’s holy cities and is known for its unique architecture and walled old town.

CULTURE & TRIBES

Ethiopia is a melting pot of cultures, home to over 80 different ethnic tribes, with different traditions, cultures and languages. As it is almost the only African country that was never colonized (along with Liberia), they were able to maintain their customs and cultures. The Omo Valley has the biggest variety of cultures in the world (for such a small place). 

• Name: Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia
• Capital: Addis Ababa
• Official Languages: Amharic
• Currency: Birr
• Time Zone: UTC +3

Visit the Monolithic church of Saint George in Lalibela

Go to the most active volcano in the world, the Erta Ale volcano

Spot some Gelada monkeys and other endemic species

Attend to a coffee ceremony

Explore the Danakil Depression

Learn about ethnic cultures in the Omo Valley

Try some ethiopian food

Visit the ruins in Axum

What to expect

Amharic is the official national language of Ethiopia, however the country has 83 different languages with up to 200 different dialects spoken. English, Arabic, Italian and French are widely spoken by many Ethiopians. 

ELECTRICITY

In Ethiopia the standard voltage is 220 V and the frequency is 50 Hz. That’s the standard voltage (220-240V) in the UK, Europe, Australia and most of Asia and Africa; If you are traveling from the US you will need an adaptor

The Ethiopian Birr is the currency of Ethiopia. Other foreign currencies, like dollars and euros, might be accepted in some tourist places and hotels but won’t be accepted in smaller establishments. You could withdraw Ethiopian Birr directly from the ATM. Credit cards are accepted but cash is recommended for remote areas and small establishments. 1 USD equals 549 birrs (as of 2023)

Ethiopia’s weather is largely influenced by its high altitude and diverse topography, resulting in a range of climates from tropical to arid, with temperatures varying greatly depending on the region and season. Average daily temperatures often exceed 85°F (30°C). Most parts of the country experience two main climate seasons – a dry season (October – May) and a rainy season (June – August).

While Ethiopia is generally considered safe for tourists, there are certain areas that should be avoided due to political unrest and occasional incidents of crime, and it is advisable to take the necessary precautions such as being aware of your surroundings, avoiding displaying wealth, and keeping important documents and belongings secure.

How to get around

In Ethiopia, there are several ways to get around, depending on the distance, budget, and comfort level. Here are some of the transportation options available:

• Plane: Ethiopian Airlines offers domestic flights to several cities in Ethiopia, and there are a few other smaller airlines as well. This is the quickest and most comfortable way to travel long distances, but it can be quite expensive.
• Bus: Buses are the most common way to get around Ethiopia, and there are several options available, ranging from basic minibusses to larger coaches. They operate on set routes and schedules, and you can usually buy tickets at the bus station or through a travel agency.
• Minibus/Taxi: Minibusses and taxis are a popular way to get around cities and towns in Ethiopia. They are shared with other passengers, and the fare is usually negotiated with the driver. These are usually cheap, but they can be quite crowded and uncomfortable.
• Train: The train is a great way to see the countryside in Ethiopia. There is a new railway line that runs from Addis Ababa to Djibouti, with stops at several towns along the way. It is a comfortable and scenic way to travel, but it can be expensive.
• Car Rental: If you want to explore Ethiopia independently, you can rent a car. There are several car rental companies in Addis Ababa, and prices vary depending on the type of car and the length of the rental. However, be aware that driving in Ethiopia can be challenging, and it’s best to hire a driver as well.
• Motorcycle: Motorcycles are a popular way to get around Ethiopia, especially in rural areas. You can rent a motorcycle in larger towns and cities, or hire a driver to take you around. However, be aware that the roads can be rough and hazardous, and it’s essential to wear a helmet and other protective gear.

Visa Policy

Citizens of Djibouti and Kenya do not require a visa to visit Ethiopia.

Holders of the following 92 countries will require a visa on arrival, valid for up to three months: Citizens from European Union, Algeria, Angola, Argentina, Australia, Benin, Botswana, Brazil, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cameroon, Canada, Cape Verde, Central african Republic, Chad, China, Comoros, Congo, DR Congo, Egypt, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Eswatini, Gabon, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Hong Kong, India, Ireland, Israel, Ivory Coast, Japan, Kuwait, Lesotho, Liberia, Libya, Macau, Madagascar, Malawi, Mali, Mauritania, Mauritius, Mexico, Morocco, Mozambique, Namibia, New Zealand, Niger, Nigeria, North Korea, Russia, Rwanda, Sao tome and Principe, Seychelles, Senegal, Somalia, South Africa, Sudan, Switzerland, Taiwan, Tanzania, Thailand, Togo, Tunisia, Uganda, UK, US, Western Sahara, Zambia and Zimbabwe. 

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Ethiopia Travel Guide + Vlog | Addis Ababa and Awassa

I visited Ethiopia for work, so did not get to do many typical touristy issues just like the church buildings in Lalibela, Danakil Depression or mountain climbing the Simien Mountains. But my experiences have been maybe somewhat extra native and genuine than your common guided tour, so I hope you may take this video for what it’s.

Have you ever been to Ethiopia? Did you simply cross by way of the capital of Addis Ababa, or did you’ve time to go sightseeing? Let me know in a remark beneath, I’m so curious!

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What are the best things to do in Ethiopia? This travel guide slash vlog will show you everything I did during my two weeks there! From Addis Ababa to...

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Ethiopia starts here.

Ethiopia is a country I’d wanted to visit for a long time before I finally arrived there. From its history—it was, at the outbreak of World War in the 20th century, the last independent black country in Africa—to its delicious food, to pictures I’d seen of its otherworldly landscapes, Ethiopia was calling me. I just needed an Ethiopia itinerary.

When I finally answered, to be sure, the voice on the receiver was more complicated than I’d expected. Ethiopia was beautiful, both its people and its scenery, but it was also a country in transition from poverty to wealth, with everyone clamoring for a piece of the pie. This usually took the form of annoying (but innocuous) street hustlers, but was sometimes more extreme, such as the schoolchild who robbed me at an archaeological site outside the city of Axum.

(And I haven’t even mentioned the food poisoning, the infrastructure and the often extraordinary unfairness of prices for travelers.)

Cynicism—and complaints—aside, Ethiopia is a beautiful country, and I do ultimately feel like my trip there was rewarding. But it’s not a destination for beginners, neither to Africa nor to travel in general, so do tread carefully once you finally hit the streets (or mud paths, as it were). This Ethiopia itinerary 2 weeks in length is for northern Ethiopia, which is in my opinion the most special and rewarding part of the country to visit.

NOTE: Visiting Ethiopia is currently difficult due to the ongoing conflict in Tigray. Contact your country’s embassy in Ethiopia for official advice about where and where not to go.

Practical Matters

When to visit ethiopia.

The most important thing to know about when to spend your 2 weeks in Ethiopia is that you should avoid the northern hemisphere summer—June, July and August are the rainy season in northern Ethiopia, which produces deluges that make already bad roads impassable. If you plan your Ethiopia itinerary 2 weeks (or longer) during the first few months of the year, like I did, you’ll look upon more arid landscapes, while scenery in September and October tends to be more lush, both in terms of nature and people: Many Ethiopian festivals occur during the autumn months, which means that as far as the best time to go to Ethiopia is concerned, fall is up there.

Where to Stay in Ethiopia

If you’re accustomed to backpacker’s quarters, this Ethiopia travel itinerary will be a walk in the park for you. If you prefer luxury, or even boutique accommodations, good luck. Even many of the “nice” Ethiopia hotels in large cities lack amenities like air conditioning or mosquito nets, and farther afield, you’ll be lucky if you can find a comfortable place to stay at all. Sorry!

How to Get Around Ethiopia

If you can spend only 2 weeks in Ethiopia, you should fly whenever possible —and you should wait until you arrive in Ethiopia to book your flights. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but tickets are much cheaper when purchased from a local agent. Another way to make your tickets cheaper (I’m talking an additional 50 per cent discount, or more!) is to arrive on Ethiopian Airlines.

If you do need to travel by land, the good news is that many of the country’s main roads are now paved (thanks to the Chinese), which makes journeys less agonizing, if still quite long. Like many countries in Africa, Ethiopia offers a variety of public and private ground transports, from full-size buses, to minibuses, to taxis and tuk-tuks, which are called bajaj around these parts. Many Ethiopian cities, meanwhile, are quite walkable, though you should be careful crossing the street—traffic incidents are one of the primary Ethiopia travel safety impediments.

Money, Costs and Communication

Ethiopia is expensive—more expensive, at least, than it should be. That’s less due to ordinary expenditures, such as long-distance and city transport, hotels and meals, and more due to the excursions you’ll want to take, namely to the Semien Mountains and Danakil Depression. Any time you need private transport, you can expect to pay a minimum of $150 per day for the vehicle, and probably as much for your guide and driver.

As far as communication, I was surprised how good it was. Prior to my 2 weeks in Ethiopia, I’d read that internet outside of Addis Ababa was almost nonexistent, but most every hotel I stayed at had it, everywhere in Ethiopia, even if it was slow. Likewise, my ethio telecom SIM worked basically everywhere in the country, with only brief interruptions, such as at the top of Erta Ale volcano. Impressive!

Where to Go With 2 Weeks in Ethiopia

Addis ababa.

Unless you arrive in Ethiopia by land from another African country, your trip will begin in the capital, Addis Ababa . For me, Addis Ababa was basically indistinguishable from any other East African capital (most specifically, it reminded me of a larger version of Kigali), and it certainly doesn’t live up to the translation of its name, which means “New Flower” in English.

With this being said, you can definitely spend a full day of your two weeks in Ethiopia enjoying the sights of Addis (to which the city’s name is often shortened), from churches like Holy Trinity and Medhane Alem , to the Red Terror Martyr’s Museum , to the sprawling, wild Mercato market. As my Ethiopia travel blog reflects, Addis Ababa was one of the most interesting places I visited in the country.

Bahir Dar and Lake Tana

The majority of travelers continue on to Bahir Dar less for the city itself, which is dusty and frankly lacking in character, but for Lake Tana , on whose shores it sits, and is near the top of the where to visit in Ethiopia list. And, more specifically than that, the monasteries of the lake, some of which date back almost to the time of christ. It’s easy to book a half- or full-day boat trip from the lakeshore in Bahir Dar, although you should note that many of the monasteries don’t allow entry to women.

The other main attraction in the vicinity of Bahir Dar is Blue Nile Falls , which is only 35 km away, but takes about 4 hours roundtrip thanks to the condition of the road. To be honest, I would only consider the falls worth a trip if you visit just after the rainy season, when they’ll be roaring, and if your Ethiopia 2 week itinerary isn’t too packed otherwise. Spend between 1-2 days of your two weeks in Ethiopia in (and, mostly, around) Bahir Dar.

Gondar and the Semien Mountains

For me, Gondar is where my trip to Ethiopia really began . That’s because while Gondar Castle  is incredible, the city built up around it is very picturesque and has loads of character in its own right, to say nothing of secondary tourist attractions such as Debre Birhan Selassie church and Fasilides Bath , where ancient King Fasilides used to bathe, which are just as interesting as the castle.

Gondar also sits in close proximity to the Semien Mountains —and touts on the streets of Gondar know that. If you haven’t already booked a tour in advance (and, frankly, you don’t need to), you can arrange trips that range from day excursions, to four-day, three-night trekking expeditions. Depending on how long you want to stay in the mountains, a key piece of Ethiopia travel advice is to spend between 3-5 days of your 2 weeks Ethiopia trip in Gondar.

Lalibela , on the other hand, was a huge disappointment. While the main attraction (the rock-hewn church of Bet Giyorgis ) was amazing, and worth the price of the $50 ticket to enter the religious complex, the rest of the churches ranges from underwhelming to downright boring, and the town had zero character at all.

I honestly wouldn’t recommend spending more than a full day of your 2 weeks in Ethiopia in Lalibela. And to be frank, if getting to Lalibela takes you too far out of the way, you wouldn’t be any worse for skipping it (which I might actually recommend, unless you plan to travel with an Ethiopia itinerary 3 weeks or longer).

Axum and Tigray State

For my money, the ancient sites of Axum were more impressive than those in Lalibela, namely the Church of St. Mary of Zion and the Northern Stelae Field , which sit inside the city. The Palace of the Queen of Sheba required a bit of imagination to enjoy, while the hike to the Lioness of Godebra (an archeological site) was more interesting than the rock painting itself (until I got mugged by my school-aged guide, anyway).

Where the Tigray region of Ethiopia really shines, however, is outside of Axum, on the way to the city of Mekele . Along this route, you’ll find ancient churches that are literally built into cliffsides , many of which require daunting climbs to reach:  Abuna Yemata Guh ,  Daniel Korkor and  Maryam Korkor  were my favorites. You’ll need a driver and a guide to get you here, and while prices are uniformly expensive, you can negotiate with touts in Axum or Mekele to find the best rate. Travelers on most Ethiopia itineraries will really appreciate 2-3 days in the Tigray region of Ethiopia.

Danakil Depression

Like Vanessa Williams, I’m a big fan of saving the best for last, which is why I recommend you wait until the end of your Ethiopia itinerary to travel down into the Danakil Depression , home to the otherworldly Dallol sulfur field and Erta Ale volcano , among other extraterrestrial-looking landscapes. There’s also a salt flat here, which is fitting since the closest cognate I can find for Danakil is Bolivia’s Uyuni region .

As is the case with the Semiens and the Tigray churches, you’ll need a tour to see the Danakil Depression, but not just any tour: Danakil tours require a military escort, thanks to aggression from nearby Eritrea, which means—you guessed it—a very high price: Around $500-600 for four days. I used a company called ETT Tours , who seems to be the best option, and certainly the most popular.

How Long Should You Spend in Ethiopia?

As I constructed this Ethiopia itinerary, 2 weeks was the amount of time I had in mind. However, this is not ideal for all travelers. For one, this is only enough time (and barely enough time at that—I had to really move quickly through the country) to see the main attractions of northern Ethiopia. Had I wanted to include central and southern Ethiopia in my trip, I’d have needed a lot longer than I had.

On the other hand, if you want to take a shorter trip (let’s say, one week in Ethiopia) this is reasonable if you pick and choose. For example, quickly get out of Addis, chose between Gondar and Lalibela (I recommend Gondar) and then fly up to Mekele to do a Danakil Depression tour. How long you spend in Ethiopia depends as much on the country as it does on you.

Does Ethiopia Live Up to the Hype?

I can’t lie: During my exciting 2 weeks, Ethiopia also frustrated and exhausted me, much more often than I now care to admit. From scams I’ve written about in Ethiopia travel blog posts here, to my food poisoning experience in Lalibela, to the fact that my tour group nearly didn’t make it to Erta Ale because of poor planning on the part of the organizer, Ethiopia wasn’t as much fun in real-time as my beautiful photos might suggest.

With this being said, Ethiopia is an incredible, beautiful country—there’s literally nowhere else like it in the world! Whether you closely follow my Ethiopia travel itinerary or take a trip that’s entirely your own, the uniqueness of the experiences you can have and the people you will meet more than counteract the stress you feel, even if some of the redemption you feel might occur weeks, months or even years after you return home from your trip.

Other FAQ About Travel to Ethiopia

Is ethiopia dangerous to visit.

Ethiopia is safe in normal times, but armed conflicts in the Tigray region of the country throughout the early 2020s make this region dangerous to visit, assuming you can get into the country amid the ongoing coronavirus pandemic. I’d recommend reaching out to your country’s embassy in Addis Ababa before booking travel for specific safety-related guidance about visiting Ethiopia.

Is Ethiopia expensive for tourists?

Ethiopia is more expensive than you’re expensive, but cheaper than most other African countries, where expensive safaris and organized tours are the only realistic way to travel. It’s possible to travel in Ethiopia for around 100 USD per person, per day, not including the cost of flights to and from the country.

What should I know before going to Ethiopia?

You should know that while Ethiopia is far (and increasingly) removed from the stereotypes you probably have about it, it remains a developing country, and faces many challenges therein. In particular, scams are common in Ethiopia; local people may pursue you aggressively, even if you politely decline to befriend or speak with them. This doesn’t mean you should be rude or unfriendly, but that you should be alert and aware as you travel.

The Bottom Line

This northern Ethiopia itinerary condenses all the most essential Ethiopia travel experiences into an easy-to-follow plan. Alternatively, if standing at the Door to Hell or traipsing through the so-called “Camelot of Ethiopia” isn’t exotic enough, you can use it as the starting point for an even more epic trip. The answer to “Is Ethiopia worth visiting?” is an obvious “Yes,” but how you make the long flight to Addis Ababa worthwhile is completely up to you. Indeed, even if you don’t precisely follow my itinerary, Ethiopia starts here.

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Travel Off the Path: Ethiopia

September 26, 2019 by Silvia 3 Comments

Visiting Ethiopia has become a bit of a running joke between Danielle and me, because we’ve been planning to go there together for the past five years. In fact we even had flights booked once, but I pulled out and decided to go to Iran instead.

So now each year we’re like, should we book our trip to Ethiopia? Except then Ethiopia became Morocco , and Japan/Russia , and Norway , and South Africa / Mozambique .

We had the same joke with Mongolia, because the only reason we took our first backpacking trip together was that we both wanted to visit Mongolia, but the day before we were going to leave from Beijing we decided to go to Kyrgyzstan instead. But then I ended up going to Mongolia without Danielle, and she no longer found it very funny anymore.

Not going to lie, I was kind of bored by the idea of visiting Ethiopia, for no better reason than we’ve been talking about it for so long it no longer feels like an exciting new idea. But then Candice emailed me asking if I’d like a guest post about Ethiopia and I got a sudden intense craving for injera. Is this a sign? And how mad would Danielle be if I go to Ethiopia without her?  Just kidding, I wouldn’t do that to her – again. 

The country

Why visit ethiopia.

I visited Ethiopia through an outreach program where we spent a few days in the capital city of Addis Ababa learning about Ethiopian food and culture, and the remainder of the trip serving at a sports camp for kids in Lake Langano. It was such an enriching experience getting to spend time with the people and learn about Ethiopia’s unique customs and traditions . 

Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in the world, with a quarter of Ethiopians living below the poverty line. The majority of the population lives in rural areas and works in agriculture. Many of these farmers do not have access to safe drinking water, healthcare, education, or modern farming technology. In addition to these challenges, they are also exposed to the risk of their crops being destroyed by droughts, floods, or other natural disasters. 

Tourism is largely a new industry for Ethiopia. For a long time, tourism was never a priority, and the country lacked the infrastructure needed to accommodate visitors. In recent years, the government has begun promoting tourism as part of its plan to combat poverty and encourage economic development. Ethiopia is starting to see results from these efforts, and in 2018, the country experienced the largest tourism growth rate in the world .

There is no shortage of reasons to visit Ethiopia. The landscapes are breathtaking, the food is delicious, and coffee, which originated in Ethiopia, is abundant.  It is a diverse country with a rich history, and the site of many archaeological discoveries that give insights into the ancient past. The time is ripe to explore Ethiopia before everyone else decides to go there.

The best time to visit Ethiopia and how to get there

There are a number of airlines that fly to Addis Ababa Bole International airport. Most tourists are eligible for the Visa on Arrival , which is granted at the airport in Addis. You can also apply for a visa online in advance . A single-entry visa costs $52 for 30 days or $72 for 90 days.

It is generally recommended to visit during the dry season, which runs from October to May. I was there during July, right in the middle of rainy season. The skies were mostly overcast and there were rain showers on and off throughout the trip, but nothing that derailed our plans.

Must see places to visit in Ethiopia

You should definitely spend time in Addis Ababa since it is the capital and largest city. One of my favorite parts was the outdoor marketplace, Addis Mercato, filled with crowded, chaotic vendor stalls where you can haggle for souvenirs like handwoven clothing or carved wooden objects. There are several museums and cathedrals to visit around the city, as well as many restaurants serving traditional Ethiopian or Western-style food.

You should also experience Ethiopia’s natural beauty and diverse landscape, which includes volcanoes, valleys, waterfalls, lush rainforests, and dry deserts. The ride from Addis to Langano gave us a view into rural life as we passed by village huts, farmland, and livestock herds along the road. Lake Langano is the most popular Rift Valley lake in Ethiopia. There are a few resorts along its beaches where people come to swim in the lake, enjoy watersports, and view wildlife in the surrounding national park.  

Denakil Depression is at the top of my bucket list for my next trip to Ethiopia. This remote desert in northeastern Ethiopia is the hottest place on Earth and one of the driest. Its volcanic hot springs have a supernatural appearance, glowing in bright neon colors. Camel caravans carrying blocks of salt mined by hand can be seen crossing the salt flats.

Getting around Ethiopia

Buses are the most common way to travel around the country. The most popular private bus companies for tourists seem to be Salem Bus and Sky Bus. Public buses are cheaper, but tend to be old, crowded, and uncomfortable. There are also several tour companies operating in Ethiopia that will arrange your transportation as part of a package tour.

If you want to avoid hours of long, bumpy rides on the rough roads, Ethiopian Airlines offers domestic flights to smaller airports around the country. 

Accommodation in Ethiopia

Accommodation options range from luxury resorts to camping in tents. A few international chains, like Hilton and Sheraton, have hotels in Addis, and there are other local hotels around the country. If you want to experience life like an Ethiopian, you can find rooms to rent on Airbnb or use a tour company that will arrange your homestay.

What to eat in Ethiopia

Injera , a flat, sour, fermented bread with a spongy texture is the foundation of the Ethiopian diet. The injera is served with a variety of vegetable or meat toppings typically cooked in a spicy sauce. Ethiopians eat with their hands and use a piece of injera to scoop up a bite of food. For breakfast, they serve fir-fir , which is made of shredded injera mixed with a spicy red sauce.

Coffee is central to the Ethiopian economy as well as daily life. You should try to experience a traditional coffee ceremony at a home or restaurant while you are there. It typically lasts several hours, involves three rounds of coffee, and is accompanied by a small snack like popcorn or a slightly sweetened bread known as ambasha .

What to pack for Ethiopia

Temperatures can get chilly at night in most parts of Ethiopia due to the high altitude, so always have a warmer layer available.

The tap water is not safe to drink, so if you are going to be venturing away from tourist sites that offer bottled or filtered water, a portable water purifier like Steripen is necessary.

Malaria is common in Ethiopia, so you should get a prescription for antimalarial pills before you go which you will continue to take daily throughout your trip. You should also bring mosquito repellant and possibly a mosquito net depending on where you will be sleeping.

About the author

Candice is a lawyer and financial services professional in New York. She shares photos and stories from her travels and life in the city on her blog Can with a Plan and on Instagram .

Have a special place off the beaten path you’d like to share? Email me at  [email protected]  with the destination and I’ll send you some questions to answer about it!

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September 26, 2019 at 4:46 pm

Now I feel like having injera too! If I ever go to Ethiopia, I definitely want to go see the underground churches of Lalibela as well. Most European churches don’t get me excited (except if you can really tell that they’re over 700 years old, like the cathedral in Durham, England!), but those underground churches hewn out of rock seem amazing…

Silvia says

October 1, 2019 at 3:26 pm

Yes, they are on my bucket list too! Ethiopia’s religious history is so interesting to me.

Frank Rispin says

September 13, 2020 at 4:27 pm

Worth telling your readers of massive discount on domestic flights if you fly in on Ethiopian…

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Once a full-time nomad, I'm now trying to find a balance between continuing to explore off the beaten path places around the world while also building a home in Norway. Want to know more? Head to my About page !

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Travel to Ethiopia: Everything you need to know

By Joan Torres 33 Comments Last updated on September 24, 2024

From visiting the most epic Christian sites to meeting ancient tribes with animistic beliefs, and from roaming around the thickest jungle to crossing the most inhospitable desert; traveling in Ethiopia is the most diverse African experience and this travel guide contains everything you need to know about it

I seriously thought that Ethiopia was a touristic, well-known country in the West but, when I came back from my trip, I was surprised to find out that many people had absolutely no clue about it, like they didn’t even know about its geographical location.

The truth is that traveling can be extremely subjective and, while Ethiopia may be a relatively touristic country as per Against the Compass standards – meaning that this is one of the most visited countries I talk about in this blog – compared to other average destinations, it is a real off the beaten track destination.

Little is known about this African country and, when people ask me what it is like to travel in Ethiopia, I always begin the conversation with the following:

The main reason to visit Ethiopia is that it is an exceptionally diverse experience.

On the one hand, the cultural diversity is huge. In Ethiopia alone, you have 80 distinct ethnic groups who speak more than 80 languages and practice different religions, from different branches of Christianity to Islam and animistic beliefs.

On the other hand, this is a historically rich country and the one with the most impressive historical and archeological sites in sub-Saharan Africa, once the capital of the Aksumite Empire – one of the most powerful ancient empires in the continent that ruled for more than 800 years – and home to endless jaw-dropping millennial rock-hewn churches and European-like medieval castles.

Furthermore, contrary to any Western cliché, Ethiopia is also a land of natural contrasts, composed of fertile tropical forests in the south and vast flat deserts in the east, the Danakil Depression being home to lava pools and the hottest settlement in the world. In the north, Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile and Simien Mountains is one of the very few places in Africa with regular snowfall, the highest peak being at 4500m.

And by the way, the scenery in Ethiopia is unconditionally hair-raising, a real blessing to your eyeballs.

And if that wasn’t enough, Ethiopia was recently rebranded the Land of Origins by the Ministry of Tourism because these lands are the origin of humankind – where the oldest hominid was found – the first place to ever produce coffee and they practice one of the rawest and most ancient ways of Christianity.

Trust me, after traveling to so many countries, I am rarely impressed but still, Ethiopia definitely wowed me.

This guide contains everything you need to know to travel to Ethiopia (literally, everything), from how to get a visa to getting in, top experiences, cultural facts, budget and loads of personal travel tips.

In this Ethiopia travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• Overlanding
• Best time to visit
• Travel insurance
• Top experiences
• Books on Ethiopia
• Cultural facts
• The country
• People & Language
• Money, budget & costs
• Is it safe?
• Solo female travel
• Moving around
• Where to stay

our recommended travel insurance for Ethiopia

With its Backpacker plan, IATI Insurance is the best insurance for any kind of adventurous destination, like Ethiopia.

🪪 How to get a visa for Ethiopia

How to get an e-visa for ethiopia.

Everybody needs a visa for Ethiopia but today, pretty much any nationality can get a tourist e-visa.

And you can easily apply through the official website .

Make sure you do it through the above URL because there are many non-official websites which, even though they do issue valid visas, charge much more money.

Typically, there are 2 types of tourist e-visa:

• 30-day visa, which costs 82USD
• 90-day visa, which costs 102USD

And it takes up to 3 days to process. Mine took less than 24 hours.

It’s a very easy process which has absolutely no secret and very little requirements.

Is the Ethiopian e-visa valid at land borders?

Officially, the tourist e-visa is only valid for those entering via Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa .

My trip to Ethiopia was part of a 3-month journey through the Horn of Africa, traveling from Eritrea to Djibouti, Soma liland and then entering Ethiopia overland, so I intended to apply for it at the embassy in Djibouti.

However, once I got there, they told me that they had run out of visa stickers and that they would not receive more after a couple of weeks at least.

Then, I tried my luck in Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland but, unfortunately they weren’t issuing visas anymore, so I was in a situation in which, according to the official information, the only thing I could do was booking a flight from Hargeisa to Addis Ababa, which kind of sucked.

However, I contacted a few travelers who said that in Africa, anything can happen and proof of that is that they managed to travel to Ethiopia overland with an e-visa, so I decided to try my luck as well and successfully managed to cross the border from Somaliland , no questions asked.

Visa on arrival for Ethiopia

If you don’t have time to apply for an e-visa because your flight to Addis Ababa is less than 3 days ahead, you can also get a VOA at Bole International Airport.

Otherwise, I don’t see any good reason why you should get a VOA instead of an e-visa.

How to apply for an Ethiopian tourist visa via embassy

The only reason for applying for your Ethiopia tourist visa at the embassy is because you are entering overland and don’t want to risk a potential denial because you are only in possession of an e-visa.

You can find Ethiopian embassies and consulates in many cities across Europe and North America. Just contact your nearest one to ask about the process, which tends to be very easy.

🛫 How to get to Ethiopia

How to travel to ethiopia by plane.

Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa is one of the most transited airports in the African continent.

I had actually been there twice even before visiting Ethiopia, as Addis Ababa is a common stop for many flights going to other African destinations and the Middle East .

The main airline operating in the country is Ethiopian Airlines , a modern company that flies all over the world , including to and from the American continent.

Moreover, there are many other international airlines that fly to Addis. I actually flew out of the country with Emirates.

Remember that, if you fly in with Ethiopian Airlines, you get a 50% discount on all domestic flights . Check the how to move around section of this post for more information.

How to travel to Ethiopia overland

Ethiopia shares a border with so many countries :

Traveling to Ethiopia from Sudan

Completely open to foreigners. There are regular minivans running from a Sudanese city named Qadarif to the border, and the border formalities are not very complicated.

Read my Sudan travel guide.

Traveling to Ethiopia from Djibouti

An easy border to cross from a bureaucratic point of view but difficult from a logistic point of view, as you need to cross the desert on a 4×4.

Moreover, an easier option would be taking the train that goes from Addis to Djibouti City, but it is a bit unreliable. For more information, check the moving around section.

Traveling to Ethiopia from Kenya

Crossing from the Kenyan town named Moyale should be a simple process.

Traveling to Ethiopia from South Sudan

Not possible. You would have to go through the jungle and go across the most dangerous part of South Sudan, so forget it. There are daily flights connecting both countries though.

Traveling to Ethiopia from Eritrea

This border is closed for foreigners and more often than not, also for locals. The only way of traveling between both countries is by flying in, from Asmara to Addis.

Read my Eritrea travel guide .

Traveling to Ethiopia from Somalia

The one I used. As you may know (or not), Somalia is divided into two regions, actual Somalia and Somaliland.

You can travel to Ethiopia from Somaliland, using the border near the city of Harar. It was very easy and quick to cross. There are normal roads and plenty of public transportation.

Read my Somaliland travel guide

⛅ Best time to visit Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a big country composed of several geographical regions, each having a different optimal season to visit, so it’s a bit difficult to guess the ideal time to come.

Rainy season

Typically, most travelers avoid the rainy season running from mid-June to mid-September, especially because the northern highlands is where it rains the most, the region with the highest concentration of popular destinations, including Gonder, Axum, Tigray churches, Simien Mountains and Lalibela .

In the south, however, which includes the famous Omo Valley , the rainy season runs from March to June, and it’s highly advisable to avoid these months, for the simple reason that the remotest villages, which are only accessible along muddy roads, will be unreachable.

November to January is high season

The weather is ideal and, up to January, the landscapes are beautifully green still. Expect to find big crowds and high prices though.

February and March is a good time too

As the weather is pleasant and most crowds are gone but the main downside is that it is already dry season, so the northern landscapes won’t be as pretty. I visited Ethiopia from February 1st to mid-March.

Therefore, in order to avoid the crowds and still get pretty landscapes, I believe that mid-September and October would be the best time to go backpacking in Ethiopia.

However, bear in mind that the Danakil Depression , one of the country’s highlights, is also one of the hottest places on Earth, and September and October’s heat will be unbearable; it is advised to visit here from mid-November to February.

And last, you may also want to organize your visit so you come during one of their most important cultural festivals :

• Genna – Ethiopian Christmas that takes places on January 7th
• Timkat – Ethiopia’s Orthodox Christian celebration that takes place on January 20th
• Meskel – Ethiopian religious holiday that takes places at the end of September

As you can see, telling you the right time is a bit tricky!

🚑 Travel insurance for Ethiopia

Central Asia is an adventurous destination, so we recommend going there with proper travel insurance.

I recommend IATI Insurance because:

• Their backpacker plan covers all types of adventure activities, including trekking
• Very competitive prices
• Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

🛖 Top experiences in your trip to Ethiopia

Trekking among tens of thousands of baboons.

A rugged, mountain range composed of insanely vertiginous cliffs and several peaks above 4000 meters and inhabited by, literally, thousands and thousands of an endemic species of baboon, trekking the Simien Mountains is one of the highlights of any trip to Ethiopia.

Read my experience trekking in the Simien Mountains of Ethiopia

Visiting the hottest (inhabited) place on Earth

Danakil is a vast depression popularly known for being one of the most inhospitable places on Earth, an arid, unwelcoming land filled with volcanoes and insane geological formations, colors and absolutely crazy landscapes, inhabited by a distinct ethnic group named Afar.

Read my experience visiting the Danakil Depression

Exploring ancient churches built over cliffs

Ethiopia was one of the first countries to adopt Christianity and its churches are not only some of the most ancient churches in the world, but they have been carved out from rocks located in the most unbelievable and vertiginous locations, and what is even more incredible is that they are still as functional as they used to be 1200 years ago.

Feeding wild hyenas with your mouth

In the eastern city of Harar, there is a man who has dedicated every day of his life to feeding hyenas. Those hyenas aren’t domestic but they are free, live in the wild and everyday, at around 6-7pm, a bunch of them come nearby his house to get feed some fresh, raw meet. It is possible to assist the peculiar ceremony and feed them with your own mouth.

Assisting an actual bull-jumping ceremony

A traditional ceremony celebrated by the Hamar tribe (one of the many tribes in the Omo Valley) in which a young boy jumps naked over 10 bulls in order to prove that he is ready to be married.

Before the actual ceremony, there is a party in which people from all the nearby settlements gather to drink, dance and do some other cultural stuff.

Read my experience visiting the Omo Valley on a budget

📚 Best books for planning your trip to Ethiopia

If you don’t have one yet, remember to get a Kindle for your journey, so you don’t have to carry along all your books! CLICK HERE TO GET YOURS

Ethiopia travel guide by Bradt

This is the Ethiopian Bible, definitely, the best book guide available for Ethiopia, and probably, the most complete book Bradt has ever written. A complete travel guide filled with endless insights, cultural facts and history. A must-have.

Ethiopia travel guide by Lonely Planet

It is not as complete as Bradt’s but it’s not that bad, it’s easier to read and they have a special chapter dedicated to the tiny, neighboring country of Djibouti.

🕌 Facts about the country, the people and religion

10 facts about ethiopia as a country.

1 – The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia – It is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, one of the largest countries in the continent and with a population of 108,000,000.

2 – The capital of Ethiopia – The capital is Addis Ababa, often referred as the political capital of Africa, as this is the African Union Headquarters and has a strong political and diplomatic influence in all the continent.

3 – It’s a very poor country as per Western Standards – Nearly 50% of their total GDP is based on agriculture, mainly coffee. It is however, one of the most powerful and influential countries in Africa. A curious fact is that I met many Somalis from Somaliland and Eritreans whose short-term objective was migrating to Ethiopia and getting an Ethiopian passport, which is apparently better than other African passports.

4 – It’s never been colonized – Italy tried to take it over twice, at the end of the 19th century and in 1936, but they were defeated so, along with Liberia, Ethiopia is the only African country which has never been colonized, one of the reasons why it is so unique and barely has any foreign influence.

5 – Ethiopia has close ties with Eritrea – Neighboring Eritrea is Ethiopia’s little brother, a country with practically the same culture. They have the same food, religion and share a big bunch of ethnic groups. The dominant ethnic group in Eritrea are the Tigrinya, which also turn out to be one of the most influential groups also in Ethiopia, inhabiting the Tigray region, the most touristic destination in Ethiopia. Moreover, they used to be the same country until 1991. For more information, read my Eritrea travel guide .

6 – They are 6 hours ahead of anyone – The funniest fact about Ethiopia is that their time is different than ours, but they are 6 hours ahead. This means that if someone from Ethiopia tells you to meet at 18h, you need to be there at 12h. Well-educated people from Addis Ababa will talk to you in rest-of-the-world-time, so will those in the countryside who are used to dealing with tourists. But the rest of the country will not and, more often than not, if you ask them: are you talking in Ethiopian time, or faranji time? they will not know what you are talking about. You are likely to meet many travelers who missed a certain bus because of this particular fact.

7 – Ethiopia is the origin of mankind – Lucy , the oldest and most complete hominid ever discovered, dating back from more than 3 million years ago, was found in Ethiopia, in the Afar Depression.

8 – Ethiopia is an ethnic Federal state – Given the ethnic complexity, in 1994, Ethiopia was divided into 9 separate autonomous regions, each one ruled by one of the largest and most influential ethnic groups.

9 – Ethiopia was once one of the most powerful Empires – The Aksumite Empire, whose center was in today’s Tigray region and Eritrea and which ruled from 80BC to 825AD, was one of the most important empires in the Ancient World, along with Rome, Persia, and China.

10 – This is former Abyssinia – A few hundred years after the fall of the Aksumite Empire, there was a man who claimed to be a direct descendent from the last Aksumite King and managed to establish a feudalist state that lasted until 1974, when the famous Emperor Haile Selassie was overthrown and modern Ethiopia started to develop.

9 Facts about Ethiopians and their language

1 – There are two types of Ethiopian – On the one hand, you meet lovely, kind-hearted people who are always willing to help, or simply have a chat with you. And on the other hand, there are the people who try to rip you off continuously. During your Ethiopian trip, you will be meeting both types all the time and, by experience, you will be able to differentiate them easily.

(But most people are good 😉 )

Faranji , hey you, you you, faranji , you! Something I found extremely irritating (and most travelers do as well) is that, when you get into a new city or place, many people will start yelling: hey you, faranji, faranji, come here, come here! This also can happen with people you bump into in the street. In response, something very funny you can do is looking at them and say: hey you, habesha, habesha, come here, come here! Habesha means local , or Ethiopian , so you are basically telling them the same thing. Because they don’t expect such a reply from a faranji , in most occasions they will freeze, while others will laugh and probably shake your hand, turning an annoying person into a pleasant one.

2 – There are 80 distinct ethnic groups – The major groups being Oromo, Amhara, Tigray, Sidamo and Somali, which make up nearly 80% of the total population.

3 – The rest of the groups are minorities – And 45 of them live in a region named Southern Nations, Nationalities and People’s region, the vast majority being tribal people.

4 – Amharic is the official language – The lingua franca, the one used by the Government and the one used by the dominant ethnic group, the Amhara people, is Amharic.

5 – It comes from Ge’ez – Which is the language spoken in Ancient Axum and is still used today by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.

6 – The alphabet is so cool – It’s called a syllable alphabet.

7 – But more than 80 languages are spoken – Or 70, depending on the source. Each ethnic group has a distinct language.

8 – And not everybody speaks Amharic – Especially in the tribal areas. It’s funny to think that, if certain tribal people from the south travel to Addis Ababa, they would feel more foreign and different than you do. You would certainly be more able to speak to the people than them.

9 – English is just OK – Not everybody speaks good English but in most towns, it is enough to get by.

6 Facts about religion in Ethiopia

1 – Ethiopia was the second state to officially adopt Christianity – After Armenia, in 330AD.

2 – Many Ethiopians belong to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church – Around 44% of the total population.

3 – They have a very raw way of practicing Christianity – Scholars claim that Christianity evolved directly from Judaism but, while it kept evolving to other forms of Christianity such as Catholicism or Protestantism, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church didn’t, hence it is one of the earliest forms of Christianity that clearly has some Judaic influences.

4 – People in white robes – If you see locals in traditional white robes is because they went to Church on that day. On Sunday, you will see wearing them more than usual.

5 – There are Catholics and Protestants too – Around 20%, and they mainly live in the south.

6 – Muslims make up one third of the total population – Differently to what most travelers who have already been to Ethiopia believe, more than 30% of Ethiopians are Muslim, and many foreign people don’t notice them because they inhabit regions that don’t receive many tourists, Ethiopian Somalia for example.

🍲 Ethiopian food and drinks

I have a love and hate relationship with the food in Ethiopia.

On the one hand, traditional food is healthy, mainly composed of stewed vegetables and a protein bread named injera .

On the other hand, despite the unbelievable geographical and cultural diversity, there isn’t much food variety across the country.

Anyways, injera is the cornerstone of any Ethiopian meal, a flat bread made from a local grain named tef . It is sour and has a peculiar crêpe texture and, basically, an average Ethiopian eats injera 3 times a day.

Some travelers don’t like it at all. I did like it but after 6 weeks of traveling in Ethiopia, I got particularly sick of it.

Fasting days in Ethiopia Ethiopians are very religious and besides the 40 days of Lent, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church also recognizes every Wednesday and Friday as fasting days, meaning that most restaurants will only serve vegetarian dishes.

Most popular food in Ethiopia

This is the most available and traditional dish, consisting of different kinds of stewed vegetables and curries that vary from restaurant to restaurant, but typically being spinach, potatoes, carrots and lentils.

It is very cheap, usually less than a $1, and this is what most Ethiopians eat each and every day.

Also very traditional but not as available as beyanet because this is meat-based, usually goat or sheep, hence more expensive, and many Ethiopians can’t afford to eat meat every day.

Tibs is roasted meat with beriberi, a chilly powder sauce, served, of course, along with injera .

This was my favorite dish, the Ethiopian hummus, I would say. Shiro is chickpea paste mixed with onions, garlic and bean flour. Energetic, healthy and delicious.

Shiro Tegamino

Same as shiro wat but much, much thicker and what I liked about it is that, for some reason, it was always served with normal bread, instead of injera .

This was a pretty fancy dish, typically available in expensive restaurants and consisting of a chicken stew cooked in a complex gravy.

Kita fir fir

Kita fir fir is injera with spices and chilli and it’s typically eaten for breakfast. I didn’t like really like it because it’s 95% just injera .

By the way, for breakfast, besides kita fir fir and its different varieties, ful is also very easy to find, which is small beans in tomato sauce and garlic. In the south, you may get some really tasty avocado as well.

Western food in Ethiopia

Many restaurants will serve pasta, pizza and burgers but don’t expect much of it.

In Addis Ababa, however, you can find good international food. Expensive as per Ethiopian standards, but good.

Pizza with cheese, tuna, chocolate and strawberries One day in Mekele, we went to one of the fanciest restaurants in town, a Western-style café typically frequented by the upper Ethiopian class. I ordered a pizza, one that was called calazori, just because it had tuna in it but, to my surprise, they brought me kind of a crêpe covered with chocolate and strawberries. No, I didn’t order this, but I ordered a calazori pizza . He opened the crêpe, which was made of pizza bread, to show me that the actual pizza ingredients were inside. By default, I don’t like chocolate, but that mix was disgusting anyways, so I told her to just change it for a normal pizza without chocolate. Anyways, my point is that, outside of Addis Ababa, don’t have big expectations of Western food.

Beer in Ethiopia

Beer is a big deal in Ethiopia and they have a lot of brands.

The best part is that Ethiopian beer is so cheap, one bottle never costing more than 17 birr in local places, which is less than 50 cents.

Coffee in Ethiopia

Ethiopia is coffee’s birthplace and, today, it is a very important part of their economy and exports.

Traditional style coffee is called buna and pretty much on any corner all around the country, you will see a lady preparing it in a clay pot named a jebena , and serving it in small cups. It’s good, and so cheap, around 5 birr (like 15 cents), but they may charge you double in touristic areas.

💻 Internet and connectivity in Ethiopia

Wi-Fi is really, really bad all over the country.

Even when hotel owners try to sell you the beautiful idea that their hotel prices include Wi-Fi and breakfast, just assume that most likely, Wi-Fi won’t work and, if it does, it’s terribly slow.

If you want to connect to the internet, you must get a SIM Card and telecommunications in Ethiopia is a monopoly controlled by Ethio Telecom .

Their mobile internet isn’t the fastest ever but it’s decent and if, like me, you have to work online while on the road, it’s good enough for creating a hotspot and do regular browsing.

It wasn’t very expensive but it wasn’t cheap at all as per Ethiopian standards.

Get a VPN for traveling in Ethiopia

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Ethiopia. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

💰 Backpacking in Ethiopia: need to know about money, budget & costs

In Ethiopia, they use the Ethiopian Birr (ETB) and, approximately:

1 USD = 57 ETB

Something I remember is that Ethiopian bank notes are some of the dirtiest I have ever seen, to the extent that when I got back home and finally touched some clean ones, it was a real reverse cultural shock.

Always have some hand sanitizer handy with you. In fact, in Ethiopia I got a small eye infection and I suspect it was because of rubbing my eye after touching some of those notes.

Black market rate in Ethiopia

In Ethiopia, there is a black market rate, which can be sometimes double the bank rate .

This means that, at the bank, if the exchange rate is 53, in the black market you can get it for up to 100, but only in Addis Ababa.

That’s why, in order to take advantage of this rate, it is recommended to come to Ethiopia with all your money in cash.

There is black market all over the country but in Addis Ababa you will get the best rate, especially near Meskel Square.

Just ask around where can you exchange your foreign currency.

However, bear in mind that, at first, they will tell you a very shitty rate, so remember to bargain.

ATMs in Ethiopia

In big cities, you can find ATMs, no problem, and they always accepted my foreign credit card. Sometimes they run out of cash though.

Nonetheless, remember that when withdrawing money, you will always get the bank rate.

Faranji and habesha price

In Ethiopia, there is a dual pricing, like I had never seen before: faranji and habesha .

Faranji means foreigner and habesha local .

In restaurants for example, food and drinks in the English menu may cost up to 3 times the habesha price and, if you believe you can grab the local menu and point out any meal marked with the original price, then you are wrong because they will always charge you the faranji price.

Moving around by local bus is also very frustrating because you know they will charge you double, or triple if they can, and negotiating is always a pain because you need to get angry, or even yelling at them, something they don’t usually expect.

I found this extremely frustrating and one of the worst things about traveling in Ethiopia.

And if you think, however, that this is how things work in their culture, I think you are wrong because I talked about this subject with many Ethiopians and they also agreed that it isn’t the right way to treat foreign tourists.

I can understand they charge double in touristic places but why do you have to pay a faranji price if you take the local bus or eat in a local restaurant?

Independent travel in Ethiopia. How much does it cost?

Traveling in Ethiopia on a backpacking budget is cheap and below is a list of the price of the most typical things.

How much does food & drink cost in Ethiopia?

Please note that, in very touristic areas such as Lalibela, paying these amounts can be very challenging but those are the prices assuming you pay the local price, so take it as a base reference.

• Vegetarian local meal like beyanet or shiro : 30 to 50 birr
• Non-vegetarian local meal like tibs : 50-70 birr
• Meal in a nice restaurant: main dishes from 100 birr
• Beer: 15-20 birr
• 1kg of pretty much any fruit (mango, avocado, etc): 30 birr
• Local coffee (buna): 5 birr
• Coffee (machiato, espresso): 15 birr
• 2l mineral water plastic bottle: 15 birr

How much does accommodation cost in Ethiopia?

• Local hotels (creepy ones): 100 birr
• Nice, decent accommodation: 300-600 birr
• Mid-range hotels: from 700 birr

How much does transportation cost in Ethiopia?

• Short local bus ride: 20 to 40 birr
• Long distance bus ticket (Addis Ababa to Gonder): 300 birr
• Domestic flight: $50-$100 one-way
• Local shared taxi (Lalibela to Mekele): 600 birr (This will highly depend on your negotiations skills. For example, two tourists who were traveling in the same car paid 1500 birr).

How much does a tour cost in Ethiopia?

• Danakil Depression 2-day tour: $250
• Omo Valley: $100-$150 a day
• Simien Mountains 3-day trek: $170
• Entrance fee to Lalibela: $50

Average daily budget for backpacking in Ethiopia (independent travel)

Assuming you don’t take any domestic flights and travel by local bus, the minimum a budget backpacker will spend is:

$35-40 a day

⚠️ Is it safe to travel to Ethiopia?

That’s a complicated question.

Overall, I feel Ethiopia is a safe country to visit, but let’s go by parts.

The conflict with the Tigray

The Tigray war was a conflict between the Ethiopian Federal Government and the Tigray People’s Liberation, which lasted from November 2020 to November 2022, causing thousands of casualties and displaced people.

The war isolated completely the whole region of Tigray in the north, home to highlights like Axum, Mekele ( Danakil getaway ) and hundreds of rock-hewn churches.

Today, the war is over and the Tigray region is once again accessible.

Pickpocketing is real

Not bluffing, if you are not careful, you are likely to be pickpocketed in Ethiopia.

I have only been pickpocketed in two countries: in Mexico, and in Ethiopia.

Actually, in Ethiopia it happened to me twice, in 2 different areas of Tigray region. On one occasion they stole my brand-new GoPro, and on the second time they took my wallet with my credit card in it.

This can happen anywhere but in here chances are way higher, so be careful of your belongings.

I strongly recommend you get a money belt ! CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE!

By the way, in big cities, especially in Addis Ababa, never walk alone at night. Your physical integrity is unlikely to be threatened but there is a high chance of being mugged.

Terrorism in Ethiopia

According to the FCO, the Ethiopian travel advice is that you should avoid the Somali province and the area or Gambella, which borders a conflict area of South Sudan.

There is an existing terrorism threat in Ethiopia but it is limited to the Ethiopian Somalia region, the province that borders Somalia.

Since I traveled to Ethiopia from Somaliland by land, I did cross that region and you could really feel the tension and threat I am talking about.

The security measures were insane. Every X km, there was a police checkpoint in which everybody from the bus had to get off and the police would check every single bag, one by one. It was very annoying.

Outside of Ethiopian Somalia, however, I never had or saw any issue.

Danakil Depression

You may have heard that Danakil Depression comes with its own issues and for that, I recommend you read my travel guide .

💃 Solo female travel in Ethiopia

Here’s the deal.

I traveled in Ethiopia as a solo man, so I can’t really speak for women, but I’ll just give you a small summary of what some kick-ass female travelers told me.

Most women said that Ethiopia was safe but the level of verbal harassment was insane, to the extent that some claim they’ll never go back to Ethiopia.

Many local men believe Western girls are easy and you may have to deal with occasional sex offers and creepy compliments. In fact, I was once with a girl from London and witnessed how a very disgusting man would just stare at her and do some creepy movements with his tongue.

Despite being predominantly a Christian country, Ethiopia is a conservative, patriarchal society in which men tend to be sexist.

Nevertheless, all women said that harassment was always verbal and, other than that, they had great fun in Ethiopia.

If you are female traveler who has been to Ethiopia and wants to write a guest post for Against the Compass, please get in touch.

Here you can see more solo female travel articles .

🛺 Transportation tips: how to travel around Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a big country and as such, moving around can prove challenging. Here are some travel tips:

Traveling around Ethiopia by coach (long-distance bus)

From Addis Ababa, you can always take a long distance bus to major destinations such as Arba Minch, Harar, Gonder or Meskel. Most buses are quite comfortable, some more than others; it doesn’t depend on the company but on the type of bus.

Selam for example, good reputable company.

Buses leave from Meskel Square and typically, they all leave at 4am, which is very annoying but given the long distances, it does make sense.

Book your tickets one or two days before. Unfortunately, you can’t book them online but you need to go to Meskel Square itself, where all company stalls are.

There is a way of booking them over the phone, but it’s a real headache.

Basically, you need to call the bus company and tell them which coach you want to take. They will give you a bank account number in which you need to deposit the respective amount. For that, you need to go to the bank but, when I got there, it was so crowded and such a mess that I thought it would be easier to take a taxi to the square.

Ethiopia travel tip: At Meskel Square, you will be approached by local men who claim they work for a specific bus company, saying they can take you to the respective office. Well, they don’t actually work for the company but they want to get a tip for helping you book your ticket, so just ignore them.

Traveling around Ethiopia by local bus

If you are backpacking in Ethiopia on a budget, you will take the local bus.

Taking the local bus in Ethiopia isn’t very different from other developing countries, but just bear in mind that distances here are huge. I personally got really tired and decided not to take any during the last 2 weeks of my trip.

Moreover, you will always have to battle to get a decent price, which will never be great because they always end up saying that you have to pay extra for the luggage, which is completely bullshit.

In the end, they always win.

Traveling around Ethiopia by plane

If you are not on backpacking on a budget, I recommend you take a few domestic flights.

From Addis, there are direct flights connecting any major touristic city, including Lalibela, Gonder, Axum, Harar and even the Omo Valley .

There are direct flights between secondary cities too but maybe not everyday and, worst case scenario, you will have to make quick layover in Addis.

Traveling around Ethiopia by air will save you a lot of time and energy.

All flight are operated by Ethiopian Airlines, a modern, reliable company, and any one-way flight ticket averages $100.

One of the best travel tips for Ethiopia is that, If you fly in with Ethiopian Airlines, you get a 50% discount in all domestic flights and, if you only have a few weeks to travel in Ethiopia, you may want to get 1 or 2 at least. However, I didn’t fly in with Ethiopian Airlines but, when I booked my domestic flight via their website, there was a tick box which you could mark claiming you actually did fly with them, so the discount was applied anyways. At the check-in counter, no questions were asked. Nonetheless, I just checked their website, and the tick box is gone (it comes and goes) so in that case, if you still want to get your discount, most people book their tickets directly at the Ethiopian Airlines office, which you can find everywhere.

Traveling around Ethiopia by train

There is one train line connecting Addis Ababa with Djibouti country via Dire Dawa (the closest big city to Harar). It runs every other day, one day towards Addis Ababa and one day towards Djibouti.

A one-way ticket from Dire Dawa to Addis Ababa costs 600 birr (price for foreigners).

The train has been built by the Chinese and it’s funny that, at every station, you see Chinese people telling Ethiopian employees what to do.

Traveling by train is always great but I will never catch the Ethiopian train again, for the following reasons:

• It’s very unreliable. We stopped for around 3 hours due to a bus breakdown. Also, the day I was supposed to catch it, the train never arrived because of another breakdown, so had to wait for one additional day.
• The train station is very far away from the city. Good luck negotiating the price of a taxi ride. When I arrived in Addis, they wanted to charge me 500 birr, and I ended up paying 300.
• Very long queues for getting in and out, as the authorities check each and every bag and, since they don’t have x-ray machines, they basically make everyone empty their bags.
• The train itself isn’t very comfortable, plus they don’t sell any food, only sodas.
• It’s an extremely busy train with loads of kids roaming around.

🏨 Accommodation: where to stay in Ethiopia

Ethiopia is well-sorted for hotels, some of them being very good value for money options.

You can check them all on booking.com .

Most hotels owners will ask you to pay in USD but, as I told you in the money section, better to exchange those USD in the black market, get 20% extra, and then pay your hotel in birr.

Creepy hotels – When I was passing through a city, I had to stay on 1 or 2 occasions in one of those creepy hotels which are OK for 6 hours and cost less than 4USD. They are all over the country

Backpacking Hostels – You can find some in Addis Ababa and also in cities like Gonder.

Guest Houses, nicer hotels – Decent accommodation costs from 400 to 600 birr for a double room, and you can find them everywhere, all over the country.

Mid-range hotels – There is also a wide range of relatively good hotels, all of them starting at 900 birr or so.

❗ More resources for traveling in Ethiopia

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Useful websites for more Ethiopia travel tips

All Addis Around – For everything related to events, restaurants and bars in the capital.

Migrationology – For anything related to Ethiopian food.

All guides and articles for traveling in Ethiopia destination

• Omo Valley Travel Guide
• A City Guide to Lalibela
• Danakil Depression Travel Guide
• Trekking Guide in Simien Mountains

Travel guides to other countries in Africa

• Eritrea Travel Guide
• Somaliland Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Sudan
• Travel Guide to Egypt
• Libya Travel Guide
• Mali Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Mauritania
• Tunisia Travel Guide

This Ethiopia travel blog was a long one, a post in which I put so much effort, and time! I hope you find it useful and if you have any questions or suggestions, leave a comment in the ”comments” section.

33 comments

Hello! Thank you for all of this wonderfully detailed information! I have a few questions: Are toiletries easy to find? Things like shampoo, body soap, sunscreen, mosquito repellant, etc? Are over the counter medicines available? Like Ibuprofen, Pepto-Bismol, etc. What kind of converter for electronics should be used? Thank you in advance!

Hello Maree! Yes, toiletries are very easy to find. Outside of main cities, you may no be able to find international brands but they do have local brands. Counter medicines are available everywhere. About mosquito repellant, is better to bring it from your home country. In my experience in Africa, I have always found it expensive and not the best quality. For electronics, they use regular EU connector.

What was your experience, i intend to go there this december

Hi! Shouldn’t Timkat be 19 January?

If one intends to take a local travel agent, for around 20 days, any tips there on how to save money?

I’ve travelled to Ethiopia six times or so over the last ten years. The first time I carefully brought along a crisp US20 dollar note for my visa on arrival. As more tourists have come, the price has risen, but it’s become even easier to get the visa. I really wouldn’t bother getting the Evisa as very often the queue for the Evisa is longer than the visa on arrival. And no need for pristine US dollars, they take pounds, euros and card as well.

Hello Joan,

Thanks for sharing your vast travel experience in Ethiopia. Would you know if there is any buses going from Lamu in Kenya, all the way to Lalibali? And if crossing that frontier is a hassle? The alternative is flying to Addis but with the layover there I think a bus would be faster. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

I dont think there aren’t direct buses from Kenya to Lalibela. It’s just too remote.

Im interested in traveling to Lilabela but concerned about the current of civil war in Ethiopia. Is it safe for senior age Black Americans to visit? If so could you recommend a tour guy?

Hi there, as far as I know, Lalibela is still within the safe area, but the city is out of electricity and there are no tourists.

correction of email below

Speaking to my in laws who live in Addis, who have relatives in the North- NOT a good idea to be travelling as a tourist outside of AA.

so sorry to bother you but would you please elaborate a little? I am currently in addis ababa and i’ve asked around and have received conflicting answers. (I think also due to language barriers but) some say it is totally fine. Others say I’m crazy to go around.

Would love some first hand info from people who are currently here. Thank you in advance.

Hello, well not being in Addis right now it seems like you’re in a better place to find out:) The UK Foreign Office has got some very detailed advice on its website- says Lalibella is ok. I would read that carefully. And whatever you do, don’t go to Tigray. Good luck.

We will be near Ethiopia in late March 2023 and would love to visit Lalibela holy land churches for 3-4 days. Could you advise how to tour them if we fly from Addis Ababa? We are Black Americans and do not know the local language. Thank you.

hi, there’s a tourist office in Lalibela, in the center of the town, where you can buy the tickets

Actually one and half day is enough to visit all the 11 rock cut churches. You could visit some county side churches combining hike to the highlander farmer village where you see their way of life, even take part in their daily activities… Lalibela based tour agent “Highland Eco trekking tours” is known for organizing authentic experience in the area

To Dr King: We went a couple years ago and used a guide named Alex Aregaw( +251 92 019 0138 on Whatsapp or [email protected] by email). He’s also on TripAdvisor: https://en.tripadvisor.com.hk/ShowUserReviews-g480193-d7033629-r793913298-Lalibela_Local_Tour-Lalibela_Amhara_Region.html he is the guy in the mask and white shawl in the first photo. His English is good and he’s very polite and nice to deal with. I occasionally keep touch with him on Instagram, and apparently a few tourists are trickling back now, and water and electricity are back, after they were destroyed when the TPLF invaded last Christmas.

For the author of the article: I’m amazed you got pickpocketed twice in Tigray! We spent like 15 days in various parts of Tigray and never encountered any crowds or groups of people, even in Axum and Mekele. We even had not been locking our car — I realized after we had been driving it for like 10 days that when closing the driver’s side door, it automatically unlocked the car — and no one ever stole the GoPro out of our windshield. But, I was always parking in hotel parking lots or I had been paying a local guy to watch the car if I parked in the street.

Thanks for your advice EG. Truly appreciate it. Peace

Hi, thanks for the useful information. How long do you suggest for a trip in Ethiopia ? I’m planning to cross the border from Sudan and after Ethiopia move on to the next bordering country. Regards, Suné from South Africa 🇿🇦

difficult to say! I spent there 6 weeks, the country is huge! but from crossing from north to south save at least 3 weeks for all the highlights!

Hello, This is very informative. What about getting sick from drinking the water or eating food, for someone who has not been there before? What precautions should one take?

I’d only drink mineral bottled water and be careful on where to eat meat

We just returned from Ethiopia. We travelled as a family with a 8 y.o. child. We’ve been in the Omo Valley with Lalo Tours. They gave the best price from the beginning. 400 USD for 2 days 2 nights everything included. It was the best part of Ethiopia trip. After this we went in Danakil with ETT after long negotiations we have obtained 900 USD for 3 days 2 nights tour. This part was very adventurous. 2 nights sleeping under the sky. You can have mosquitos, wind and dust. Beautiful and incredible sceneries. Don’t expect more than basic conditions for food and accommodation. You should come preprepared. After this it followed Lalibela where we had the best accommodation in all Ethiopia at Ben Abbeba local guide for 40 USD payable in in Birr.

Some tips and tricks:

1. Don’t use ATMs or official exchange offices. Come with USD in cash and change it in Addis on black market. We managed to change it for 99.5 for 1 USD (We heard about 110 for 1 USD). Go to Meskele sq pick up a restaurant and ask discreetly about changing money. Like this all the prices will drop to almost 50% for you.

2. In Addis specially look up for pickpocketing, snatching of the phone from hand, etc. We didn’t experience but we met people who did. So be very aware. We used money belt for USD transportation. For birr it is impossible because you will get a lot of birrs for your USD. Use a backpack.

3. In Addis use Ride app for ridesharing. Select pay in cash and you will have dirt cheap rides.

4. Everywhere it said that if you use international flight with Ethiopian Airlines you will have almost 50% discount for internal flight. Is nobody checking this. So, I believe if you tick on their website that you have am international ticket with them, it will work even if don’t have in reality. More than this if you want to be sure and you don’t have luggage you can make online check-in and you will not face any question from anyone. Another trick is that if you have international flight with them, once in Addis change your USD in birr on black market and after this go to Ethiopian Airlines Office and buy your domestic tickets with cash. Like this you will have the smallest prices.

5. Political situation. It can become quite instable sudden. During our stay in Amhara started some violent demonstrations, especially Gondar. In Lalibela was peaceful, but we didn’t have mobile internet, and, in some parts, we heard a lot of gun shots, the locals said that people buy weapons and test them… Keep an eye on BBC section for Ethiopia and western embassies. Local guides we will tend to minimize the danger, but it is there.

6. If travelling with children, be aware of the sanitation conditions. Ours got food poisoned and for 3 days it was a nightmare with continuously vomiting, diarrhea, high fever, fatigue In Addis we didn’t find any antidiarrheic medicine, just antibiotics that worked finally. We also faced another problem, that by our mistake, we had all the medications in the luggage and Ethiopian Airlines lost them for 10 days. So, travelling with small children can become difficult.

7. Erta Ale volcano activity. It is totally different from the lava lake that you can see it on YouTube. Now there are 2 small volcanic cones like 3-4m in diameter that spit lava. Guides said that the situation is changing each day. You can see the lava or if unlucky only smoke. Be prepared because the smoke can be quite irritating. A face musk can help but not too much. Especially with children in Dallol area you will fill incredibly hot. Drink plenty of water, otherwise there are chances to faint from heat. The guides and agencies are totally unprepared for something like this. You will not have somebody with you permanently to take care. You must handle it on your own.

I will be happy to answer to other questions if there are any. Safe travel for everybody!

Buf! this is one the best travel report/feedback we’ve ever got in ATC. Thanks a lot Vladimir!

I’ve just been researching the visa situation for Ethiopia, and came across your site. The fees are currently vastly different to what you have here ($82 for a 30 day visa, $202 for 90 days, extension $102 and $302 respectively). Your site is very interesting. I am planning an overland trip from Cairo to Cape Town early 2024. 😀

It seems they increased prices, thanks a lot for the update!

I’ll be a black American solo female traveler in 2024 to AA and this detailed info has me excited and informed instead of intimidated and uncomfortable. Fortunately, I currently live in Washington, DC in an Ethiopian community where these beautiful people are my neighbors and small business owners. Daily I interact with them, learn a word or two of Amharic, and eat their food (which I also have a love/hate relationship with ;)) Safe travels, everyone!

Have a lovely trip Chelsea!

You are out of date on. VISAS. Embassies no longer do them VOA no longer available unless you are from an AU country. So you must use e visa..where prices now 82 and 202 dollars…for 1/3 months.

thanks for the update!

You really are amazing. Thanks for the very interesting and comprehensive info. I have 2 friends who have just come back from travelling in Ethiopia and I am planning a trip there myself.

Hey, thanks for the great post. I’m going there in 4 days so very useful have everything together and in a blog that I know I can trust closed eyes. Don’t know if anyone has told you already, but regarding the discounted domestic flight rate: it’s true one can’t book with it in the website anymore, but you can still do it in the Ethiopian Airlines app – as you said, it’s just a box you tick when searching flights. Cheers!

Excellent and very comprehensive article, Joan, many thanks for sharing! By the way, I just published this Addis Ababa travel guide in case you or your readers would like to take a look: https://marielaaroundtheworld.com/addis-ababa-capital-of-ethiopia/

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Africa , ETHIOPIA

57 things to know before you travel ethiopia.

It’s not often I return to a country more than once.

In fact, it’s basically never.

There’s just too much other stuff to see in the world.

But once, just once, I had to make an exception and that exception was, of course, for my beloved Ethiopia.

Yes here I am, back in the horn of Africa, my second visit in under 3 months!

Can you believe it?!

Well if you were following my journey at the end of last year, probably you can, because you’ll know I fell head over heels in love with this country and met so many great people.

Indeed I felt called to return.

So now having spent 2 months here, and explored most of the country, I’m definitely getting to grips with some of the weird and wonderfully workings of it!

And how weird and wonderful it is!

Here is my comprehensive list of everything you need to know about travel in Ethiopia.

Related Posts

• The Ideal Ethiopia Itinerary
• 15 Safest Countries to Travel in Africa
• Your Unforgettable Africa Itinerary: 1 Week to 3 Months

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General tips & tricks for ethiopia travel.

#1 There’s 9 UNESCO Sites

The largest number of any African country, Ethiopia has 9 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and all of them are worth visiting!

Perhaps this figure gives you an insight into just how incredible this country’s landscape and culture is!

#2 Amharic is the National Language

Related to Arabic and Hebrew, Amharic is a Semitic language, but possesses its own alphabet and sounds.

Trying to get to grips with it can be an interesting experience!

Besides Amharic there are 83 other languages spoken in Ethiopia that are both regional and tribal and most Ethiopians speak 2 or 3 as a result.

Thankfully, English is widely understood, especially amongst young people and those in the tourism industry!

#3 They’ve Got Their Own Time System

It’s a common maxim that Ethiopians like to do things their own way and the fact that they have their own calendar and time system is a good indicator of this!

Using the Julian calendar, Ethiopia’s month, dates and years are vastly different from the international model.

Their clock also runs differently – namely 6 hours apart the western clock – because their days begins at 12 o’clock, when the sun rises at our 6am!

It’s very important therefore that you qualify all times and dates in Ethiopia by asking constantly asking whether they are referring to Ethiopian or International time!

#4 It’s Safe

Despite what you might think, Ethiopia is incredibly safe, even for solo female travellers.

I’ve never been harassed or had any trouble, even in the capital Addis Ababa .

In fact, I’ve rarely felt more looked after!

Possibly this is something to do with most Ethiopians being devotedly religious people and a cultural expectation that the highest respect and hospitality be shown to visitors.

Alternatively, if you’re a long-term traveller, digital nomad or frequent remote worker seeking travel health cover, check out Safetywing’s Nomad Insurance policies.

#5 Everything Closes for Lunch

Don’t try to do any errands between the hours of 12pm and 2pm in Ethiopia, everything shuts down for lunch and you’ll end up just wasting time!

This comes from the voice of experience!

#6 Guides Are Great

I’m never one for taking tours or guides, but in Ethiopia it really is a wise decision to do so.

Getting to grips with the history of the country is near impossible without one, and in many towns, learning about the history will be the whole reason you’re there!

I took guides in Axum , Harar and Lalibela and found them all fantastic.

In some parts of the country, guides or tours are also required for example, if you’re heading the Danakil Depression , Simien Mountains or Omo Valley .

In some other cases, it’s almost impossible to get to places without a tour or guide including the Lake Tana Monasteries or the Tigray churches .

Most guides speak excellent English, but do check before paying!

Otherwise, if you’re interested in an unforgettable, well-priced tour in Ethiopia with guides you can trust, then email me at [email protected] with details of where you want to go and I’ll send you my top recommendations – simple!

Alternatively, check out these top picks .

#7 It’s Not As Cheap As You’d Hope

Largely because of the need for guides and tours, Ethiopia is not SUPER cheap (read. it’s still pretty cheap) to travel in.

Accommodation costs can mount up, as can the long domestic travel distances and “tourist tax” is common!

Food and drinks however remains crazily cheap and delicious!

#8 You Gotta Go with the Flow

This is Africa, so expect disorganisation, chaos and plans that quickly change when you’re in Ethiopia!

Trust me, it’s much easier if you’re flexible, just accept the current situation and go with the flow.

Getting stressed and angry won’t change anything and you’ll only end up not enjoying yourself!

#9 Get Your Tourist Visa in Advance

While many nationalities used to be offered visas on arrival at Addis Ababa Bole Airport, this has now changed.

Almost all passport holders must now either get their visa via the official Ethiopian e-visa platform or from their nearest Ethiopian Embassy before travelling.

A valid visa will need to be shown before boarding your flight, as well as at Addis Ababa airport immigration.

It costs $82 USD for a single entry 30 day tourist visa.

Longer visas are also possible for more money.

#10 eVisa Are Handy

Although eVisas might seem like a hassle, in recent years this system has been streamlined and now offers a much smoother and quicker process for tourists than getting your on arrival.

eVisas are accepted at all Ethiopian land, as well as airport, borders.

#11 Multiple Entry Visas No Longer Available

It seems the rules have recently changed on multi-entry visas to Ethiopia… they are no longer being issued.

What to Pack for Ethiopia Travels?

#12 Bring Your European Adapter

The European 2-pin plug is used throughout Ethiopia, so make sure you pack the correct travel adapter .

#13 Prepare for Cold Evenings

Due to the high altitude at which most of the country sits at, Ethiopia can get cold in the evenings, therefore packing several pairs of long trousers, as well as sweaters, scarfs and some thick socks is a great idea.

I love this travel scarf , which would be ideal for Ethiopia.

#14 Grab Gear for Hiking

There’s tons of great hiking opportunities in Ethiopia, so make sure you come prepared.

Hiking boots with good grip are a must, especially if you’re venturing into Simien Mountains , Bale Mountains or Danakil Depression .

I always recommend Keen Targhee II as some of the best and most affordable hiking boots on the market.

#15 Take Toilet Paper

Places often don’t provide toilet paper in Ethiopia, so come stocked with a roll or 2!

#16 Don’t Forget a Headlamp

Frequent power cuts, particularly in rural Ethiopia are common, so be prepared with a good headlamp and spare set of batteries for your travels here.

I love my Black Diamond one, which has served me well throughout Africa.

I guarantee you’ll make good use of it!

#17 Get Snap Happy

Ethiopia is one of the most photogenic countries in the world, so whatever you do, don’t forget to take your camera.

I used my Sony A6000 in Ethiopia and it was absolutely perfect being light, compact and quick to charge.

#18 Moisturiser, Moisturiser and More Moisturiser!

It’s super dry in Ethiopia, with most of the country set in an arid landscape at high altitude; as such your skin will get super dry, super fast!

Bringing a good body moisturiser, face moisturiser and lip balm therefore is key.

I love the Burts Bees range which are well priced, not tested on animals and avoid lots of nasty chemical.

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A Word on Culture in this Country

#19 You’ll Make Many Friends!

It sounds like a cliché, but Ethiopians genuinely are some of the most hospitable people I’ve ever met.

They have a very social culture and love nothing more than a coffee and a chat!

If you’re open to it, you’ll make tons of friends as everyone tries to practice their English and wants to learn more about other countries around the world.

Please don’t think everyone is trying to rip you off, they’re generally not!

Download Whatsapp before you come to Ethiopia – everybody uses this to communicate – otherwise you’ll miss one of the great experiences of this country, namely hanging with its people.

#20 No Short Shorts

Generally Ethiopians are very proud people and take great care in their appearance.

The culture however is more conservative in its dress standards than you might be used to and wearing shorts or skirts that expose legs is not common.

I generally wear trousers with a singlet, or leggings covered by a dress when I’m here, which works fine.

Across the country you’ll see young and old people wearing a mix of traditional and western clothing – it’s a country that really still combines the old and the new.

#21 Hustle and Hassle is a Fact of Life

Although no way near as bad as I expected before I first got to Ethiopia, some hassle and hustle can occur here, although 99.9% of it is harmless.

Deal with it best by ignoring and not engaging in conversation.

This is especially true with the children, who will follow you for miles otherwise!

#22 Faranji Faranji!

White people in Ethiopia are known as faranjis, while Ethiopians are known as Habesha.

Neither term has a discriminatory connotation to it, so don’t take offence when people refer to you as a faranji, as they inevitably will!

#23 The Music and Dancing are Crazy

There’s few things that demonstrate Ethiopians’ unique culture more, even in today’s world, than their music and their dancing!

It’s all bonkers!

Head to what is known as a Traditional Restaurant in any large town and see it for yourself.

Otherwise any local club is also an amusing cultural experience!

#24 There’s Several Ways to Greet

Ethiopians have a complex array of ways to greet each other, from simple handshakes to multiple cheek kisses, or my favourite, the shoulder bump!

Try out as many as you like and get into the spirit of this social society!

#25 It’s a Tactile Culture

Ethiopians are very tactile too, so don’t freak out if people put their hand on your shoulder, for example, when they are talking to you!

Quite often on the street, you’ll see Ethiopians, men included, holding hands as a sign of friendship.

Ethiopian Food

#26 The Food is Amazing

A huge part of Ethiopian culture is food and coffee.

It’s all delicious cheap and readily available!

#27 It’s Vegetarian Friendly

Christian Orthodox Ethiopians, which make up the biggest religious group, actually fast every Wednesday and Friday, as well as during the lead-up to many religious celebrations.

In fasting, they avoid all rich foods like meat and dairy products.

This makes Ethiopia incredibly vegetarian and vegan friendly as all menus will have fasting options regardless of the time of year.

Shiro is the most common veggie food – a chickpea dahl-type dish – served on top of an injera – yum!

#28 Injera is the Staple

The staple of Ethiopian cuisine is injera, a huge fermented pancake made from a grain called Teff.

Gluten-free and delicious, it’s served with almost every meal often in the place of a plate and cutlery!

#29 Salad and Fruits are Big

Ethiopians also tend to eat very healthily and fresh salads are readily available as are some incredible natural fruit juices, including avocado, papaya and pineapple, normally served with fresh lime.

Desserts aren’t common – probably why most of the country are so slim!

#30 Forget the Fork

Most Ethiopian cuisine is eaten with your right hand, often using a torn piece of the injera as a scoop.

It’s common that you won’t even find any cutlery to use!  

Most restaurants and cafes have a handwashing station for you to use before and after your meal.

#31 Coffee, Coffee, Coffee

Famous the world over, Ethiopia is meant to be the home of coffee and here it’s almost a sacred drink.

Called ‘buna’ in Amharic, you can grab a shot of this black gold almost anywhere, including on the street for as little as 5 Birr at side stalls.

Traditionally served as part of a ceremony, the coffee beans are roasted and passed around for you to inhale the scent.

The coffee is then served in 3 rounds, the first being the strongest out of a special jug, which is kept hot on an open fire as incense wafts in the air.

It’s normally served with sugar, so make sure you stipulate no sugar if you want to avoid the sweetness.

#32 Local Beer and Wines are Great

Who knew Ethiopia was a producer of wine, but they are and it’s good.

Local beers are also good and abundant.

My favourite is called Habesha.

Accessing & Spending Money

#33 Get Your Birr On!

The local currency in Ethiopia is the Birr (ETB).

It can’t be bought outside the country, so must be got either via exchanging USD at local banks or by using ATM machines.

You’re also not allowed to take more than 200 Birr out of the country when you leave.

#34 The Notes

Many Birr notes can look a bit scrubby at best!

They come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100. There’s also a range of coins.

100 Birr, is actually only worth around 4 USD!

This is largely due to the recent and rapid growth of the Ethiopian economy.

However, it doesn’t seem like the national mint has caught up yet by bringing out a higher value note!

This means a spacious wallet is required when you to visit Ethiopia as you’ll inevitably be carrying around lots and lots of notes!

#35 Exchange at the Airport

When you arrive at Bole International Airport in Addis, you’ll find several Bureau de Change offices and also ATM’s both before and after immigration.

The current exchange rate is around 27 Birr to 1 USD at the airport and it’s the same offered at banks across the country, so you might as well change money as soon as you arrive.

Just remember to keep any exchange receipts, you’re meant to present these when exiting the country.

#36 ATMs are Easy

ATMs are plentiful in Ethiopia and easy to use with instructions in English.

They generally accept both Visa and Mastercard – although Visa is more useful.

Commercial Bank are one of the most trusted providers.

And when it comes to using ATMs, the easy way to spend abroad with real exchange rates, no markups and no sneaky transaction fees, is with a Wise card, which works just like a debit card here. Grab yours here .

#37 Bring Big Bill USD

People only really want to exchange USD in Ethiopia and even Euros and British Pounds are likely to be denied.

Therefore bring lots of USD cash, if you want to avoid ATM withdrawal fees and change these for Birr.

Bigger notes will give you a better exchange rate on the black market, so stock up on $50 and $100 bills if you can.

If you’re travelling in other African countries before you arrive into Ethiopia, it’s recommended you get the local currency there changed into USD, so you have plenty for Ethiopia when you arrive.

How to Get Around Ethiopia?

#38 Roads Are Bad

Many roads in Ethiopia are pretty bad and getting between destinations in this huge country can take you forever via land.

In many parts of the country, road travel is restricted at night too, which generally means a long journey can take a few days and often involve an overnight stay somewhere along the way.

As such many tourists opt to fly around the country instead.

Especially if you’re short on time, using Ethiopia Airlines’ domestic services to hop between destinations quickly and safely is a great idea.

#39 Book Your International Flight with Ethiopia Airlines

Ethiopia Airlines are the national carrier and have a huge range of domestic flights that can jet you around the country in no time.

Prices work on a 2 tier system – loosely indicated as a local and foreign rate.

However as a tourist, you can access the cheaper local rates (which are up to two-thirds cheaper) be buying an international flight into the country with Ethiopia Airlines.

You can then use your international flight code to access the cheaper local rates when booking domestic flights.

Even if the international flight with Ethiopia Airlines costs a few dollars more, you’ll quickly reap the rewards if you’re flying domestic a lot, trust me!

UPDATE JAN 19: Ethiopian Airlines now have an app and by using it to book flights you can save a further 10% on the ticket price.

#40 Don’t Rush to Buy Domestic Flights

You can easily book domestic flights in Ethiopia just a few days before you fly.

3 days in advance should be fine.

Prices don’t go up nearer the time and flights rarely sell out more than a couple of days in advance.

If you have a quick itinerary however, you may want to buy domestic flights from outside Ethiopia before you arrive.

This is easy to do online or via local tour operator ETT – who you can email your requirements and then pay in USD cash when you arrive into Addis.

#41 Get to the Airport Early

Even for domestic flights, ensure you allow plenty of time once you get to the airport.

There’s rigorous security at all Ethiopian airports and you’ll have to go through security first to enter the building and then to enter the gate.

This can take a while!

TOP TIP: When you arrive at Bole International Airport in Addis it’s easy to pick up a taxi outside. There’s hardly any hassle, which is a major relief, but do ask to see the brochure of official rates (which exists!) so you don’t get ripped off on the journey to your hotel.

#42 Get Some Sheba Miles

Ethiopia Airlines are part of the Star Alliance Group.

Check their website for partner carriers to earn points, or easily sign up to their scheme – Sheba Miles – and earn points which can be used in conjunction with Egypt Air among many others.

If you’re flying a lot in Ethiopia it soon mounts up and I’ve already scooped a few free flights as a result!

#43 Sky or Selam Bus are Great

If you don’t want to fly around the country, then there are some luxury coaches that travel similar routes.

Sky Bus , Ethio Bus and Selam Bus are the 2 biggest companies and timetables can be viewed online.

Tickets however need to be bought in person at the nearest office and it’s a good idea to do this at least a day before.

Most towns have ticket offices.

Due to the distances involved and the fact these buses don’t drive after dark, departures are normally around 4 or 5am!

#44 Enjoy the Minivan Madness

In Addis Ababa and other large cities, minivans are used to travel short distances.

Minivans are also used as the cheapest form of transport to travel between some cities.

Costing only a few Birr, they are confusingly called taxis!

#45 Know the Difference Between Taxis

With minivans being known as taxis and taxis being known as taxis, things can get confusing in Ethiopia!

The basic rule of thumb is that public taxis = minivans and contract taxis = taxis!

#46 A Bajaj is a Tuk Tuk

In smaller destinations, tuk-tuks also ply the streets and are generally a cheap and convenient option for getting to attractions or restaurants.

In Ethiopia however, they are known Bajaj so use this word if people are looking at you confusingly when you ask for a tuk-tuk!

Ethiopian Accommodation

#47 Hostels Aren’t a Thing

Hostels don’t really exist in Ethiopia, so look for budget guesthouses if you’re backpacking.

These can be found almost everywhere and are generally private rooms, normally with ensuite bathrooms and possibly wifi / breakfast included.

Prices start from around 300 birr, which is about $15 USD per night.

You’ll be hard pushed to find anything under $10 USD.

#48 Most Guesthouses have Laundry Facilities

Every guesthouse I’ve stayed at in Ethiopia has offered a laundry service, making it the most convenient place to get your clothes washed.

There generally aren’t handwashing facilities at hotels / guesthouses in Ethiopia, meaning you have to get your clothes laundered unless you want to take them in shower with you!

Prices are normally around 6 Birr per piece and hand washed by local women, providing a valuable source of extra income.

Give your washing in at breakfast time and receive it by the evening.

Sometimes they’ll ask you to provide your own soap!

#49 Use Booking.com to Find Accommodation

Most Ethiopian accommodation providers use Booking.com to market their rooms.

This gives you free cancellation as generally you just pay on arrival.

Hostelworld is slowly gaining momentum too.

#50 There Aren’t Guest Kitchens

The vast majority of guesthouses in Ethiopia don’t offer kitchens, but eating out is so cheap anyway it’s no biggie.

One exception I found was the excellent Mr Martin’s Cozy Place in Addis Ababa .

This great guesthouse has free wifi, free breakfast and a guest kitchen!

It’s also excellently located in the Bole area of Addis Ababa.

Read my full review of Mr Martin’s Cozy Place here .

#51 Security is Good

All guesthouses generally have 24hr security access as well as lockable front gates.

This makes them very secure and I’ve felt safe in every place I’ve stayed.

Internet and Phone Access

#52 There’s Only 1 Provider 

There’s just 1 telecommunication provider in Ethiopia, known as Ethio Telecom, which makes things simple in one way and difficult in others!

#53 Get a Local SIM

Getting a local SIM is cheap (30 Birr) and highly recommended for travel in Ethiopia when you’ll likely need to call guesthouses, tour companies etc.

SIM cards can be bought in the morning (Mon-Sat) from any Ethio Telecom shop.

Take your passport and some money to pay for the SIM as well as put credit on your phone via the voucher system.

Make sure to get your SIM registered (required by the government here) and your personal hotspot established.

Check everything is working before you leave the office!

*804# can be dialled to check your balance.

#54 Buy Mobile Packages

Data, call and SMS packages can be bought on a daily, weekend, weekly or monthly basis by dialling *999# on your handset.

This is the most cost-effective way to use your Ethio SIM.

I love the monthly 600 birr package, which gives 4GB of data.

#55 Addis is the Best for Wifi

Unsurprisingly, the capital Addis Ababa has the best internet and 3G connection in the country.

You’ll need to hang here a lot if you work online!

Anywhere outside of Addis and connections can be patchy, especially 3G, which the government often shuts off completely. HA!

#56 Airports have Free Wifi

  Almost all airports in Ethiopia have free wifi and weirdly I’ve found it to be some of the fastest in the country.

Most guesthouses now also provide free wifi, although to what extent it works is another matter!

#57 Get a VPN

As well as blocking 3G networks, the Ethiopian government also regularly blocks social media channels.

Maintain access to your Facebook and Instagram therefore by subscribing to a VPN before you get here.

I highly recommend Nord VPN , which I’ve used in Ethiopia and works brilliantly.

SAVE THIS ARTICLE TO PINTEREST!

So there you have it, EVERYTHING you need to know about travel in Ethiopia.

Are you planning to visit this amazing African country?

Have any questions?

Please ask away in the comments box below…

Creator of Big World Small Pockets, Stephanie Parker is a travel addict! Originally from Jersey in the Channel Islands, Stephanie adventures the world collecting tips, advice and stories, to share with a smile

78 thoughts on “ 57 Things to Know Before You Travel Ethiopia ”

That was totally true, like 100%. I’m shocked on how much u know. I mean, I’m Ethiopian and I couldn’t have described better than this. Well Done 🙂

Wow Rachel, high praise indeed! Thank you so so much, this means A LOT 🙂

wow that helped me a lot. hope to visit ethiopia soon. thanks you steph.

Thanks Amir, so delighted to hear this article was helpful. Really happy you plan to visit this amazing country soon 🙂

You’re welcome anytime

Excellent info provided for traveling to Ethiopia. If I plan to be in two areas for less than 2 days a piece or so, is it worth it for the Sim card for phone use? Or can I use Whatapp for contacting folks? I also sent you an email regarding safety in going to Lalibela and Axum in August 2018. Thank you in advance!

Hi Terri, great question about the SIM. If you’re only in Ethiopia for 4 days it may not be worth it, especially as places that are remote such as the Simien, Danakil and Omo Valley can be a struggle for reception anyway. That said, while many accommodation places have wifi in Ethiopia, it’s far from a guarantee and can be patchy and slow at best sometimes! You can definitely use Whatsapp if you can get wifi! Answering your email now. Best, Steph 🙂

I love all your explanation, and suggestions. thank you!!

Thank you Henok! Best Steph 🙂

Hey Steph huh I’m from Nigeria and I plan to stay there for 30 days What’s the average amount I would spend there In USD

Hi Riche, thanks for your question. It’s really hard for me to give you an answer on this for several reasons 1) what time of accommodation are you looking for 2) will you fly or bus around the country and 3) how many tours do you want to take to places like the Danakil or Omo Valley. These factors will wildly alter your budget. Perhaps if you can give me some more info on these points I can help you better 🙂

This is SO helpful already! Thanks a bunch. We may have more questions as we get closer to our December trip. Love it! Getting excited…

Hi Jenn, so delighted to hear you found the post helpful. PLEASE, don’t hesitate to get in touch with any question about Ethiopia – love talking about that place and am more than happy to help others discover it whenever I can 🙂

wow steph you described my country well

Thanks Tesfa, that’s such a wonderful compliment to hear!

thanks, great loads of information. Quick question on your visa recommendation, can you get a multiple entry one upon arriving at the airport?

Hi Francois and delighted you found the article helpful. Giving visa information is always tricky, because there are so many variables depending on where you come from and the information is quickly outdated. As such, please check with the foreign office of your home country and Ethiopia to learn the latest. All I can tell you is that when I last visited Ethiopia, as a British citizen I was not eligible for a multi-entry visa on arrival. However, as I said this may have changed, so please do check for yourself to be sure of the most up-to-date info. Best

Thank you so much for the detailed list!! Is it possible to get away with using a roller carry on luggage or is a backpack best?

You could definitely get away with a roller carry on in Ethiopia Vero if you’re planning on using domestic flights rather buses and not doing a multi-day trek in Simien or Bale Mountains.

really like that place .. its enjoying my self at here

Awesome to hear Jay 🙂

The best rundown that I’ve seen so far. Thank you for all of the logistical info. Every question I had, you answered (including what neighborhood to stay in). I’ll be in Addis for 3.5 days with my flight layover and can’t wait to eat all the food!

Hey Heather, thank you so much for these gorgeous comments – truly delighted to hear you found the post useful. I basically wrote it thinking about everything I had in mind before I travelled to Ethiopia but couldn’t discover online, so glad I’ve managed to help another traveller out. Enjoy Addis, the food and this amazing country 🙂

Hi Heather, Were you able to get a transit visa for 3.5 days? Thank you.

This is an AWESOME list!!! I’m heading to Ethiopia in 2 days for a month and am I glad I stumbled upon your post 🙂 (specially regarding bus companies) Thanks for sharing!!!

Hi Dan, thanks your comments and so happy to hear the post will help! Enjoy this amazing country 🙂

Thanks for the useful tips, great starting point for our upcoming trip in April. We will be visiting Lalibela, flying there and back from Addis. As it happens, we fly to Ethiopia with Ethiopian Airlines, so I was wondering how to book the 2/3 cheaper domestic flights that you pointed to- where do I find the code? Would it be better to wait till we are there and book locally? You said it doesn’t make a difference… Thanks a bunch

Hi Susanne, thanks for the question and delighted to hear you will be travelling to Ethiopia soon. If you go to the Ethiopia Airlines website, when you search a flight and then head through to book it, it will ask if you hold an international ticket with the company – tick yes at this stage, enter your International e-ticket number if prompted and then you’ll be eligible for the local domestic flight rates. Alternatively, you can book when in the country, but online or via the app tends to be cheaper as of this year. Hope that helps 🙂

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply Steph, the recommendation to book online is very useful as I was about to leave it till we get there and book in Addis, but if it cost potentially more, I’ll get on with it now.

Great idea Susanne, glad I could help. Enjoy Ethiopia, you’re going to love it!

Hi Steph, Thank you so much for this super useful article. We are going in April and are super excited. We will be there only for 2 weeks and plan to take a domestic flight to Lalibela. Would you recommend a taxi driver for us? As we don’t have a lot of time, we think it would be best to have a driver and not to take bus. Did you book your hotel one or 2 days ahead or much more in advance ? Thank you so much again ! Véro

Hi Véro, thanks for your lovely words and so happy you find the article useful. I also have a full blog post guide to Lalibela, so please search there as it gives all my recommendations for accommodation and guides in this city plus LOADS more info. Booking accommodation a few days in advance should be fine – unless you’re travelling at Easter time when Lalibela will be busy. Buses aren’t a possibility in Lalibela – you can visit the town churches on foot, but will need a guide with a driver if you want to hike around the city to the churches outside. Your hotel should organise an airport shuttle for you. Hope that helps 🙂

I love the way you described and wrote the tips. They are just perfect for a traveler interested in coming to Ethiopia for their very first time. I love Ethiopia just like i love my country Uganda. It has lots of things to see like gorillas, chimps, big 5 game, over 1000 bird species, hiking, rafting, kayaking, zip lining, sport fishing etc

Thanks guys. Yes I love Ethiopia and Uganda, although only the latter has the wealth of wildlife and activities you describe. Ethiopia certainly does not have gorillas etc!

Hello Thanks very very much for your wunderfull explanation. It helps very much to have an idea before. We are from Portugal and goes next month. Thanks Thanks, Fred, Manuel, Hans and Renee.

Hi Paulo, thanks for these lovely words and hope you enjoy your trip to Ethiopia 🙂

Thank you! We are a middle-aged adventurous couple and wondering about a guide. Recommendations? Two week trip. North and South. Thank you

Certainly Adele, always happy to help. Can you email me on [email protected] and I can pass on more details that way – lots of options and all a bit much to go into here. Thanks 🙂

Wow! Amazing guide and tips to know before traveling to the beautiful and wild Ethiopia. As ethiopian and passionate traveller, I appreciate a lot this kind of contributions to help the others with their planning trip. You already say this but double check: Be sure don’t miss the tipical food, because a huge part of Ethiopian culture is food and coffee, even it’s Vegetarian Friendly! Ah, in addition, remember also to get your electronic visa in advance so you can save a precious time :=)

Thanks for the comments – the food is a must I agree. The eVisa is not! Every time I arrive, the eVisa queue and the visa on arrival queue are the same length! Also I think that if you need longer than 1 month or you need a multi-entry visa you must get on arrival, correct? Thanks, Steph

Hi Steph, Your blog proved to be very helpful! My dad was born and raised in Ethiopia but has not been back since the 70’s. We are planning a trip for Nov 2019 and I am very excited!!! However, I noticed the U.S. government just issued a ‘travel with caution’ advisory for Ethiopia and a ‘do not travel’ advisory for several regions of the country due to current civil unrest. Do you know if this advisory was posted when you went? Any thoughts on the safety of traveling to Ethiopia this year?

Hi Andrea, thanks for reaching out and very excited to hear your Dad was born in Ethiopia – wow! I was last in the country in Jan 2019 (I’m writing this comment in April 2019) so I’m not sure when the warning was published by the US government. To be honest, I’m always a bit sceptical of their warnings – they tend to be quite disproportionate in my experience. The British Foreign Office advice tends to be a lot more balanced in my opinion (I’m not biased honest!) You can check it out here: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/ethiopia . I can’t speak for you or your safety, but would I go back to Ethiopia now? … heck yes! I’d just monitor which regions I travelled in as always and seek information on the ground. Hope that helps 🙂

hello from the beautiful Pakistan. I am a solo traveler. After completing Asia im off to Africa now. Went to Kenya last year and loved it. Now i have options between Ethiopia and Uganda. What would you suggest in terms of security, diversity, prices, hospitality, etc etc,etc? etc means the things we solo travelers look for hahaha. By the way most welcome to Pakistan anytime and you will find worlds 6 biggest mountains, worlds deepest seaport and worlds biggest agricultural/irrational system and above all great hospitality. Be my guest anytime. my email id is [email protected]

Moeed, thanks for your comments and excited to hear of your Africa travels plans. Ethiopia and Uganda are wildly different and hard to compare. Probably Uganda is a little cheaper, but it totally depends on how many adventure activities/safaris etc you want to do. If you trek to see the gorillas, for example, this will wildly raise your budget. Ethiopia is less about wildlife (although there is some) and more about the unique culture, food, coffee, landscapes, hiking etc. Honestly, it depends what you enjoy more. I am hoping to travel to Pakistan soon and am very excited about it! What is the best time of year to visit your country?

Hello, I sent you an email, but figured it would hurt to message you here as well. I am headed to Ethiopia in October and Harar , Omo valley, Axum and Lalibela. My main interest is the people, the traditions, the food and the religion. How long would I need, what is the best way to get around. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am ready to be a sponge and soak up the knowledge.

Hi Paul, I wrote you an email back this morning with info. Let me know if you didn’t receive it or if you have any more Q’s on the back of it. Best, Steph

Hi, Steph! I am heading to Ethiopia in November for 12 days, covering Addis Ababa, Gondar, Lalibela, Simien Mountains and Omo Valley. I seem to read different opinions about vaccinations. I know they are not mandatory, but some of them are stronlgy recommended (depending also on the lenght of one’s stay) and some people said they’ve had them as a necessary precaution, some say they did not and are not necessary at all. What can you advise me on this matter?

Hi Florentina, my advice is to consult a travel health professional, tell them your plans, your medical history and follow what they suggest. I’m certainly not qualified to give advice in this area I’m afraid. Enjoy Ethiopia 🙂

Everything is so well written, you did an amazing job.

Thanks so much 🙂

Hi Steph! Me an my wife will be travelling to Ethiopia next february. Are there any hidden gems close to Addis Abeba? How is Adamo and Awasa?

Hi Nicklas, I’ve actually written a post about the 5 best day trips from Addis, so do search that on my site for some good ideas of things to do around the city, it includes Awasa, but sadly I haven’t made it to Adamo yet. Enjoy Ethiopia 🙂

Wow I’m Ethiopian my self but although I was born there I haven’t been to the country since I was 8 months old! I’m 11 now and we’re finally going back there for vacation. This was super helpful to me and now, thanks Tom you, I’m all ready to go!! Thanks so much for telling me things I never really new about my culture. But Everything I did know was true. 😁

Diddy, this is such a beautiful comment to receive and made my day. Such an honour to hear these positive thoughts from an Ethiopian – I feel honoured! Hope you have an amazing trip to the country 🙂

My daughter lives in Ethiopia and I am going to visit. She wants to go to the Danakil Depression for a 3 day trip but I am very leery due to the facts I read on the travel to and from there about the roads. I have heard that they are “ the worst roads in the world” . I told her I’d prefer going to Gambella or Awash instead. Thoughts?

Hi Christine, the roads that do exist in the Danakil area are actually good, the problem is that often there aren’t any roads, this is a wild, desert / lava / salt pan terrain. Take a look at my specific article on the Danakil to view pictures and learn more. You can find it by typing “Danakil” into the search bar at the top right of corner of my site.

My daughter is currently in Ethiopia and was gifted a beautiful full sized mesob. Do you have any tips for the best way to get it back home to the US?

Sorry Dee, I don’t have any experience on this front.. what a beautiful gift though!

Thanks for such awesome tips! We are going there on 20 of September and I just can’t wait! We are also going to visit Simien Mountains ^_^. I have also showed mu husband your suggestion on a NordVPN and we bought it as well. Thanks a lot! Very great app and not expensive! We have watched other countries Netflix already and thats great! Oh boy, can’t wait for our holiday!

Amazing Natalie! So excited to hear you are looking forward to your time in Ethiopia. Know you’re going to love it… enjoy 🙂

Thank you, I left Ethiopia a long time ago, and your article had information I needed, made me a bit homesick, and gave me ideas on how to show my son the rich tradition and culture he comes from. Thank you, and safe travels wherever your next destination takes you.

Thanks Natti and hope you and your son enjoy your time in Ethiopia, Steph 🙂

Hi Steph, great blog- thanks so much for covering it in so much detail! How would you suggest is the best way to commute within the city of Addis? I am staying at the MM Cozy Place Guest House after reading your recommendation but was wondering how to get to and from the airport from there!

Hi Suparna, there’s a section in this post about how to get to and from the airport using local taxis. Where they are and how to get the best rate. I also mention Whatsapp and taking your phone for Google maps / maps.me.

this was really helpful. We are planing a trip there with a friend for January. We will stay a couple of weeks and we want to have the best experience ever (everyone does I suppose). We are mainly interested to beautiful landscapes, music heritage (being musicians ourselves) and food.

Is there a plan that you would suggest with the must ?

All the best from Greece, Theodore

Hi Theodoros – great to hear you will travel to Ethiopia in January. I have an itinerary article on the blog with lots of ideas for routes that take in the best of this country. Suggest you take a look at that for my ideas around the must-see highlights. Then, if you have any more questions, do feel free to send me an email. Best, Steph

I am hoping to go to Ethiopia next year, I have enjoyed reading your guide. Thank you

Hi Tracey, thank you so much for leaving a comment and delighted my Ethiopia content has helped you. Happy travels 🙂

Hi Steph, Great write up with excellent details. As a solo traveler who plans to visit africa in april for the first time i was wondering would you reccommend kenya, ethiopia or uganda if i had interests that consists of nature, safaris, culture, nightlife, food, ability to meet locals and ease of transportation? Any help based on your experience would be very helpful!

Hi Trav, great question. If you want to include safaris, then I’d recommend either Uganda or Kenya – both of these tick all your boxes… apart from maybe nightlife (and food?)! Ethiopia is best for the food! Steph 🙂

Hi Steph, thank you for the blig about Ethiopia. I am currently in Addis and want to go to Gondar, Lalibela and Bahir Dar by bus. Some locals advised me not to as there’s still some violance and tribal/political unrest. I was advised to fly instead, which I’m avoiding as much as possible. Do you have an update on that. Thanks a lot. Vako.

Hi Vako, I don’t I’m afraid as the situation changes very rapidly and there’s no way I can keep up! Check gov.uk – the British government foreign office website – which has detailed and up-to-date security information about every country in the world. Also locals on the ground often know best, but ask around to get a few different opinions. Best of luck, Steph 🙂

Hi, Is it necessary to vaccinate for Malaria if going to Ethiopia?

Hi there, as I’m not a medical professional, I can’t advise you on this I’m afriad. Please consult a travel health doctor prior to your departure for more information. I always advise this before all trips to this continent. Best, Steph

Hello there, thanks for the detailed breakdown of your experiences advise in Ethiopia. My husband and I are planning to travel there in a few days and would like to do a three day trek to the Simien Mountains. We would like to travel on to Aksum. Do yo have any advice on the preferable route; driver from Imet Gogo, bus or flight? Thanks again! Samantha

Hi Samantha, if you check out both my posts on Axum and the Simien Mountains, you can discover more about how to travel between the 2. In short form however, you can get a bus between Debark and Axum, or return to Gonder and from there fly to Axum. Happy travels, Steph 🙂

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Ethiopia Travel Tips: Know Before You Go

In this post I outline 15 top Ethiopia travel tips . This useful guide will help you whilst planning a trip to Ethiopia . 

The only African country never to be colonised. The cradle of humanity from which all humans began their journey on earth. The final resting place of the Arc of the Covenant and most importantly, the creator of coffee .

Ethiopia has many fascinating historical claims and is unlike any other African country you will visit.

However, many travellers I’ve met have gotten frustrated with Ethiopia and ended up never wanting to return. So how do you travel Ethiopia the right way?

Following my visit to Ethiopia, I believe the key to success is be aware of a few things before you enter the country. In this post I provide 15 top tips to make your visit to Ethiopia an enjoyable one . So before you book that flight take a minute to read on below.

2024 Important update: Due to civil unrest, much of Ethiopia is deemed unsafe to visit currently. Please check with your countries travel advisory service for the latest information. For UK see FCO website here.

Disclaimer:  Some links in this article are affiliate links, which means that if you purchase through them I receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you. This helps cover the cost of running this blog. Thanks for your support!

Top Ethiopia Travel Tips

Single entry 30 day and 90 day visas on arrival are available at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport for residents of 36 countries (UK, Canada, US, Australia and most European countries included).

To get the visa on arrival you will need two passport photographs and $52 or $72 respectively (September 2019).

E-visa are also available to purchase in advance although the cost is the same . Multiple entry visas are a little more involved and can be applied for at your nearest consulate.

The national language is Amharic , a Semitic language with its own alphabet and sounds. It’s a beautiful script and a language which Ethiopians are hugely proud of, but it’s not easy to pick up.

Although English is quite common in most of the tourist areas, try and engage locals with a few basic phrases.  You could try using a phrasebook and Google translate now has Amharic, which will help you get by in a pinch.

Religion is a huge part of Ethiopian culture with 60% of the population being Christian. As you travel around Ethiopia you will discover just how deeply imbedded Christianity is in this country.

For this reason it is best to dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees. Ethiopian men typical wear trousers and t-shirts and ladies often wear full length dresses. Leave the hot pants at home people!

Always remove shoes before visiting a church. Try and wear clothing that covers all parts of the body and women should also cover their hair with a scarf.

Never try to visit the inner ‘Holy of Holies’, which is reserved strictly for the priests. Certain churches may also be reserved for men only.

Ethiopian Birr is the local currency (ETB) and it can’t be bought outside the country. For this reason also be sure to exchange all of your Birr before you leave .

ATMs are plentiful and Commercial Bank is the most reliable. Cash is king though so to avoid ATM fees and to get a good exchange rate, bring USD. Bigger notes such as $50 and $100 will give you the best rate.

Don’t forget to take a money belt to keep your money safe whilst exploring.

The staple food in Ethiopia is a large pancake type thing called injera. Injera is made from a grain called teff. It is served cold with stews, lentils, meat or fish to name a few. Injera is fermented so it’s not to everyones liking, however it is pretty healthy – find out why in this article .

In Ethiopia food is mainly eaten with hands (just the right hand!) and is often shared, using injera as a scoop. With the majority of the population being strong Orthodox Christians, fasting is observed on Wednesdays and Fridays and during important religious periods such as lent.

During fasting they abstain from meat and diary. Perfect for all travelling vegetarians and vegans.

Juicing might be a recent hipster trend for us Westerners but it has been popular in Ethiopia for a long time. Try the popular mixed mango, avocado and papaya juice. Yum.

The other big drink in Ethiopia is of course, coffee. Coffee is more than just a drink here, it even has it’s own ceremony! The coffee beans are first roasted before being passed around for you to appreciate the scent. It is then served in three rounds. Make sure you have time on your hands if you need to grab a quick coffee!

As mentioned earlier, a lot of Ethiopia is located at high altitude, which means it’s important to stay hydrated. Keep sipping water constantly throughout the day. This is also hugely important if planning a trip to the Danikil Depression where the temperature is extremely high.

Use a filtering water bottle so that you can easily stay hydrated wherever you are.

Ethiopians have adopted the Julian calendar, which is seven to eight years behind the Gregorian calendar. One year in the Ethiopian calendar is 13 months long, with 12 months having 30 days each.

The last month has 5 days in a common year and 6 days during leap year. Coptic Christmas is celebrated on the 7th January and New Year on the 11th September.

Ethiopia doesn’t just have its own calendar – it has its own version of time! It sounds a little crazy at first but it’s not too hard to get your head around after a little while.

In Ethiopia they operate on a 12 hour clock, rather than a 24 hour clock. 12 hours of daytime and 12 hours of nighttime.

The daytime cycle begins at 12:00 (which is 6am by western time). After 12 hours, 6pm Western time, nighttime begins. When the day for Westerners begins at 00:00 (midnight), in Ethiopian time is 6pm or 6 at night. 8am Western time is 2am Ethiopian or 2 o’clock in the day.

Confused? Yes, me too! The best way to avoid any confusion when booking activities is to confirm whether you mean 8 o’clock in the morning or 8 o’clock at night. Or even say 8am western time, and they will understand. Most Ethiopians working in tourism will work on Western time with foreigners.

In Africa time is only a rough guide anyway – people are rarely “on time”, whatever time you’re working on!

Getting anywhere in Ethiopia takes time. The roads are slow and windy, since most of the country is mountainous and traffic comes in the form of slow donkey carts.

However, getting from place to place doesn’t need to hurried because the views along the way are simply incredible. Just sit back and enjoy the ride!

More photos of Ethiopia are available to see in my Northern Ethiopia photo gallery

Everyone’s favourite travel topic: Toilets

Toilet paper doesn’t seem to be a “thing” in Ethiopia, so always carry some with you when you are out and about. Hotels should be well stocked though.

Begging culture

You will get asked for money a lot in Ethiopia – fact. You’ll also get asked for pens and food and everything in between. Most of the time it is harmless and the best way to deal with it, is to simply ignore it.

It might feel harsh at first but if you engage in any way you will have children following you around for miles!

Embrace the shoulder bump

Greetings with an Ethiopian can be a complicated affair, sometimes involving a variety of handshakes or several cheek to cheek kisses. The most common (and my personal favourite) though is the handshake followed up with leaning in for a shoulder to shoulder bump.

After a few shoulder bumps you’ll be wanting to do it with everyone!

Local SIM cards

There is only one mobile phone provider in Ethiopia, which is Ethio Telecom . Wifi is generally quite poor so getting a SIM can be very useful.

Ethio Telecom shops sell SIM cards in the morning only and you will need to show your passport to make the purchase. Buy credit for data, call and SMS packages and get them to set it all up before you leave.

What to bring

Ethiopia is colder than you might think so bring some warm clothes. A lot of the country sits at high altitude so whilst it can get hot in the day, at night temperatures drop and you’ll want to wrap up. 

Interested in learning more about Africa? Take a look at this post about neighbouring  Sudan.

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Louise is an Adventure Tour Guide, Snowboard Instructor & Mountain Leader from South Wales. Through working as a tour guide and snowboard instructor, she has spent the last 15 years travelling Asia, Africa and the Americas. Louise is a published photographer and currently guides mountain trips in the UK.

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Ethiopia Travel Guide

Ethiopia is an emerging tourist destination. To make the most of your time in the country, it's important to understand what to expect, and how to best prepare for your journey across this beautiful, but unpredictable country. 

Taking a break, Community Trekking in Tigray.

Omo Valley Traditional Dance.

The view on the approach walk to Blue Nile Falls

Buffalo Herd in Gambella National Park.

Sankaber campsite in the Simien Mountains

Imet Gogo is a stunning viewpoint in the Simiens.

Taking a break to admire the view.

An armed scout must accompany you in the Simiens.

Lalibela market days

Body paint of the Omo Valley.

Breakfast at Mequat Mariam, Community Trekking.

The rainbow mist of the Blue Nile Falls

Karo Tribe in the Omo Valley.

Contents of our guide

• Major travel regions of Ethiopia

Map of Ethiopia

• Best travel routes in Ethiopia
• Where to start your journey
• Our top landmarks and places to visit 

Things to do in Ethiopia

Places to visit in ethiopia.

• How long to spend in Ethiopia
• Accommodation options in Ethiopia

When to visit Ethiopia

Costs of travelling to ethiopia.

• Guiding options in Ethiopia

Safety in Ethiopia

• Types of tours to Ethiopia

At the end, we have an FAQ section . This includes questions about: 

• Visas, money, photos & video, daily expenditures, what to bring, mobile & communications, vaccinations, Ethiopian cuisine, guidance on tipping, dress code

Major Travel Regions of Ethiopia

There are 4 major travel regions in Ethiopia: 

• The Northern Circuit
• The Rift Valley
• The Omo Valley
• The Dankil Depression

Beyond these easy-to-define regions, there are a number of other popular travel destinations, these include the Bale Mountains National Park , Harar , Gambella National Park , and the Gheralta Mountains (which are sometimes included in the northern circuit). 

We've broken down the major travel regions further on our Map of Ethiopia page . 

Best routes to take in Ethiopia

Which route you take around the country will depend entirely on: 

• How much time you have available
• What your budget is
• Which destinations are most important to you 

Typical Routes in Northern Ethiopia

A typical route is a 12-day northern circuit , which starts in Addis Ababa and loops clockwise around northern Ethiopia, finishing back in Addis. 

The major destinations on the northern circuit are: Bahir Dar , Gonder , Simien Mountains , Axum , Lalibela , and the Gheralta Mountains . 

Additional destinations you can include on a northern circuit include the Danakil Depression , community trekking , and Harar . 

Typical Routes in Southern Ethiopia

The main destinations in the south of Ethiopia are the Bale Mountains National Park , the Rift Valley , and the Omo Valley . Which route you take will depend on which of these destinations, or which combinations of these destinations, you plan to visit. 

It should be noted that travelling in the south of Ethiopia is much harder than travelling in the north. The infrastructure in the south is much less developed, and the access routes are fewer and less well maintained. 

How to plan a trip

Given the diversity of experiences available in Ethiopia, the distances between destinations, and the difficulty of travelling using public transport, it's worth taking the time to understand your options so you end up with the best possible itinerary for you. 

We've spent years travelling around Ethiopia, have partnerships with the very best local guides, drivers, and tour operators, and have helped hundreds of travellers explore this incredible country . Get in touch with us to start your journey. 

Brilliant says

Ethiopia is wonderful, chaotic, and incredibly beautiful. However, it is an emerging tourist destination, and everyone on the ground is still learning. It is important to pack a sense of humour in unpredictable Ethiopia!

Where do I start? Where do I fly into?

Unless you are doing overland travel and coming in from a neighbouring country, you will arrive via international flight into Bole International Airport in the capital city, Addis Ababa . 

Most international flights are overnight and arrive in the early morning in Addis (typically 6-7am). From here, you will clear immigration, collect your visa (more on that below) and head out to meet your driver in the car park . 

Note that drivers are not allowed inside the airport terminal, so you will have to go outside to meet them. This can be a tricky affair , but airport staff are always on hand to help you and if you've booked with us, you will have key contacts who you can call if you need help. 

Most people spend the first day in Addis, using the morning to relax and freshen up after the overnight flight, and then heading out to explore some of the city in the afternoon. 

Landmarks in Ethiopia

What are the must-see places in ethiopia.

We've compiled a list of some of our all-time favourite places, landmarks, lodges, wildlife, and restaurants in Ethiopia. Of course, we couldn't include everything, but if you're planning a trip, here are some amazing places you should consider visiting. 

In the north

• Church of Saint George , Lalibela
• Ras Dashen , Simien Mountains
• Limalimo Lodge , Simien Mountains
• Fasil Ghebbi , Gonder
• Lake Tana and the Blue Nile Falls , Bahir Dar
• Gelada Monkeys , Simien Mountains
• Erta Ale and Dallol , Danakil Depression
• Abuna Yemata Guh , Gheralta Mountains
• Ben Abeba Restaurant , Lalibela
• Korkor Lodge , Gheralta Mountains
• Obelisk of Axum , Axum 
• Hyena Man , Harar

In the South

• Ethiopian Wolf , Bale Mountains
• Bale Mountain Lodge , Bale Mountains
• Tribes of the Omo Valley , Omo Valley

Whether it's trekking in the mountains, exploring the volcanic landscapes, seeing the wildlife, or soaking up the culture and history of this country, there is no shortage of incredible experiences on offer in Ethiopia. 

Any page we write can only scratch the surface of the wealth of opportunities in Ethiopia, but to give you an introduction into what's on offer, and hopefully inspire your next adventure, you can check out our guide to the top 10 things to do in Ethiopia .

Admiring the view en route to Erar, Community Trekking.

A land of infinite variety, there's something for everyone in Ethiopia. Whether you're an adventurer, a honeymooner, a family looking for a break, a solo traveller, or a group of friends looking for a once-in-a-lifetime holiday, Ethiopia will surprise, delight, and inspire. 

Here's our rundown on the best places to visit in Ethiopia.  

How long to spend in Ethiopia?

A typical trip to the north of Ethiopia is 10-12 days . In that time, you can visit many of the towns and national parks in the north. 10 days is the minimum time required if you want to explore all the destinations on the northern circuit. 

With 12-15 days, you can also include the Danakil Depression and community trekking (our personal favourite thing to do in the country). 

If you want to include the north and south, you will need around two weeks , although this depends on how many destinations you visit in the north. You will need at minimum of 4 days to explore the Omo Valley . 

At Brilliant, most of what we do is build tailor-made trips , and we very rarely run the same trip twice. So no matter your budget, interests, or appetite for adventure, we can help create an itinerary that's perfect for you.

Accommodation Options in Ethiopia

Accommodation options in Ethiopia can fall short of international expectations (you can read more about this on our expectations guide here ).

However, there are an increasing number of excellent lodges , and the major destinations have enough options to keep most travellers happy. 

We've written a guide on accommodation options in Ethiopia , as well as the best lodges in Ethiopia and the luxury options available .  

Cosy, cabin-esque rooms at Limalimo Lodge

The best time to visit Ethiopia is between October and March . The country experiences a rainy season from June to September , although travelling during these months is still possible. 

We've written an entire guide on when to visit Ethiopia . 

A short walk takes you to the top of the falls

The cost of your trip to Ethiopia will depend on 4 key factors: 

• The length of your trip
• Your group size (solo travel is significantly more expensive)
• The accommodation preferences
• Whether you use local guides or professional guides

For more information, check out our guide explaining the travel costs in Ethiopia . 

Guiding in Ethiopia

There are two options for guiding in Ethiopia. The first is to use local guides in each of the regions you visit. Local guides are usually very friendly, and well-versed in the local myths and legends , but often do not have the same expertise when it comes to the facts and historical accuracy the destinations.

For some, this is part of the joy of travelling around a region, but others it can be a frustration. 

If you opt for local guides, you will have different guides in each of the regions you visit. For example, once you arrive in Addis, you will be picked up at the airport by a local driver and taken to your hotel. A local guide will then meet you at the hotel and take you on a city tour of the capital. Once it's time to continue your journey, for example if you're heading up to Bahir Dar, a driver will take you to the airport in Addis and another driver will pick you up from the airport in Bahir Dar. Here, you will be met by another local guide who will look after you in Bahir Dar, and so on!

Our expectations guide talks more about what you can expect from local guides in Ethiopia. 

If you'd prefer a little more continuity, or if you value guides with high levels of accurate knowledge , you can opt for a professional escort guide to travel with you around the country. These guides have excellent English and usually have formal training in tourism. 

A professional escort guide does of course add to the trip cost, but it can be well worth it for some travellers. 

Ethiopia is, generally, a very safe country to travel around.

Addis Ababa is one of the safest African cities, and as long as you exercise common sense, it is unlikely you will have any problems with safety while travelling in Ethiopia. 

We've written a guide on safety in Ethiopia if you want to learn more. 

Types of Tours to Ethiopia

With so many options for incredible tours in Ethiopia , it can be hard to know where to start, and how to plan the perfect adventure. Fortunately, our specialists have decades of experience in East Africa and know Ethiopia extraordinarily well, so get in touch with us to start your journey. 

There are many ways to slice and dice itineraries to Ethiopia, but to help get you started, here are some of the trips possible here: 

• Adventure Tours
• Cultural Tours
• Wildlife Tours
• Luxury Tours
• Coffee Tours
• Safaris in Ethiopia
• Private Tours
• Tailor-made Tours

Of course, these aren't mutually exclusive, and a single itinerary could be considered a blend of all the above!

Ethiopia Travel FAQs

How do i get a visa for travel to ethiopia.

All foreign nationals require a visa to enter Ethiopia. Fortunately, the process is very straightforward. You have two options for securing a visa, you can pay online in advance through the online evisa service , or you can obtain a visa on arrival at Bole International Airport.

If you use the online service, you will still collect your visa at the airport on arrival but you can skip the payment queue (which is welcome after a long overnight flight!) If you are paying on arrival, note that you cannot pay in Ethiopia

n Birr or card payment. You will need to pay in cash in either GBP, USD, or EUR. The price for a visa is around 50 USD for a standard 30 day visa. To secure a visa, your passport will need to be valid for at least the next 6 months from the point of arrival in Ethiopia. 

If you need to extend your visa, you can do this at the Immigration Headquarters on Churchill Avenue in Addis. For multiple entry visas, or if you are visiting on business, you need to contact the Ethiopian embassy in your home country, as these cannot be obtained online or on arrival.

Can I bring foreign currency to Ethiopia?

It is fine to bring in foreign currency, but if you are carrying more than 3000 USD equivalent, you will need to declare this. Generally there is no reason to bring huge wads of cash with you, as there are ATMs all over Addis and in all the major towns in the north and south. You are only allowed to import or export a maximum of 200 Ethiopian Birr. 

Am I allowed to bring my professional camera to Ethiopia?

Ethiopia is very photogenic, so you’ll want to bring a good camera with you to take the best snaps of your adventure. If you are planning on bringing a professional camera, you will need a permit. We can help you arrange this. There are no clear guidelines indicating which kinds of camera require permits, and handheld cameras are usually never questioned, but as a general rule - the bigger the camera, the more likely you’ll need a permit. 

How much money should I bring?

The local currency is Ethiopian Birr. In many of the built up cities, you can pay by card but you should not rely on this. If you’re going anywhere remotely out of cities, you should have cash to hand. Even in Addis Ababa, many establishments won’t accept card payments, or internet connectivity issues could mean they can’t accept it at the time.

ATMs can be found in most built up areas, so you don’t need to bring lots of cash with you into the country. It’s also now wise to walk around with huge sums of money withdrawn from Addis to last for your whole trip, so the best thing to do is plan ahead based on where you are going and for how long. Your guides can help you with this, but withdrawals are typically limited to 4000 Birr (~120 USD) anyway so you will need to top up throughout your trip.

Note: your guides won’t mind being tipped in a foreign currency, so consider this when determining birr withdrawal amounts.

How much will I spend on daily expenditures?

We advise carrying enough small notes (10 birr notes are very handy) for small payments and tipping. If you’re travelling to the Omo Valley, you’ll need enough 5 or 10 birr notes to pay for photographs. Daily expenditure will depend on personal preferences and requirements, and of course what is included in your tour with us. 500-800 birr (20-30 USD) per day is a good ball park to help you budget, and this will cover lunches, dinners, drinks and small personal spending. It does not include breakfast, excursions, entrance fees etc. which will typically be included in your tour price.

What should I bring when travelling to Ethiopia?

Much of Ethiopia is highland, which means temperatures are much milder than many countries in East Africa. Addis Ababa itself sits above 2000 metres, so you’ll be acclimatising the moment you step off the plane!

Given the diversity of climate from region to region in Ethiopia, you need to pack for the full spectrum of weather conditions (depending on where you are going, of course). In the Danakil Depression, temperatures will be approaching 40°C, whereas in the heights of the Simien Mountains at night, temperatures can fall to below freezing.

In general, daytime temperatures will range from 15°C to 25°C - so pack light clothes with a jacket/coat for the evenings.

Most hotels offer a laundry service, so you don’t need to bring too much! Remember, Ethiopians are conservative dressers so please respect this and dress to cover at least your knees and shoulders. Our trekking in the Simien Mountains page contains a full kit list for hiking in Ethiopia.

Will I get mobile data in Ethiopia? Can I get a local SIM?

The internet in Ethiopia is intermittent, and internet outages are frequent (either voluntarily during protests/civil unrest or involuntarily due to infrastructure).

Most hotels in built up areas will offer internet which is generally reliable. Ethiopia has just one telecom provider, the state-owned Ethio Telecom. The mobile data coverage is surprisingly good.

You will need to purchase a SIM card on arrival in Addis, and unfortunately it is not a simple process! Your guide will help you organise this, but essentially you will need to get a SIM card cut for your phone and they’ll take your passport details and a photo in the shop. It costs around 50 Birr (~2 USD). There are mobile data bundles available, depending on how much data you plan to use. 

What vaccinations do I need? Are there any medical pre-requisites?

It is important that you consult your GB or travel health nurse before visiting Ethiopia. Which vaccinations you will require, and specific advice pertaining to your safety while in the country will depend on your medical history and current health.

Thanks to Ethiopia’s high altitude, malaria is absent in much of the country. Most areas above 2000 metres are reportedly malaria free. That said, we still recommend taking anti-malarials as the disease is still present in low lying areas of the country.

A Yellow Fever vaccination certificate used to be required, but is no longer required at the time of writing, but it might be if you are coming from a country where the disease is present.

A cholera vaccination is required if you have a visited a cholera infected area within 6 days of arriving in Ethiopia.

It’s a good idea to bring a simple first aid kit with you, and you must bring any medicines you require with you, as local pharmacies have limited stocks. It’s extremely important that you take our comprehensive travel insurance when visiting Ethiopia. 

What is the food like in Ethiopia?

The mainstay for Ethiopian cuisines is injera topped with all sorts of sauces, meats (vegetarian options available as well), and spices. You will usually be eating with your hands when eating injera, and you should take care to only eat with your right hand. Placing food in your mouth with your left hand is considered rude.

You’ll also likely encounter a gursha, a tradition in Ethiopia where your host will feed you a piece of the meal - this should always be accepted! Ethiopian food is great, but if it’s your first time in the country and you are spending a number of weeks here, you should strike a balance between local cuisine and international foods that you are more accustomed to. We speak from experience...

You can learn more on Ethiopian cuisine page . 

Is there a general dress code for travelling in Ethiopia?

Ethiopians are conservative dressers, so you should take care to respect this and dress accordingly. Clothing should cover the knees and shoulders. Of course, allowances are made in certain parts of the country (e.g. the Danakil Depression) where the searing heat demands shorts! 

What guidance on tipping?

Tipping is vitally important in Ethiopia and is somewhat of a cultural expectation. While tipping is hugely appreciated by the local staff and we recommend tipping generously where you can, it can be difficult social terrain. We hope the below advice can help you avoid any awkward/uncomfortable situations.

The social awkwardness is often worse regarding the amount of the tip rather than whether or not to tip at all (as most travellers will provide some amount of tip). One approach that we have found works well is to decide beforehand how much you want to tip, then take out and fold up the notes and place them firmly in your guide/drivers hands, thank them for their help/services and then move on.

You don't want to be in a position where you are being watched as you take out notes one by one deciding when to stop. As a general guide, we recommend tipping 10 USD per day for guides, and 5 USD per day for drivers/support staff (drivers, cooks etc.).

People do often tip much higher than this but it comes down to your budget, so our suggestion would be to start at 10 USD/day and go up/down from there depending on the quality of service and your budget. It can be tricky but it's important to feel like you're tipping what you feel is deserved whilst sticking to your budget!

Responsible tourism is woven into the values of Brilliant Ethiopia. It’s impossible to separate what we do from why we do it. We don’t just want to reduce the negative impacts of tourism on the country, but we want to actively increase the positive impacts that tourism can have on the local communities and businesses. As a traveller and guest in this incredible country, it is your responsibility to take the time to understand that nuances of the Ethiopian way of life, and to respect their customs and traditions. 

Ready to Explore Ethiopia?

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Ready to plan your Ethiopia adventure?

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Ethiopia Travel Guide & Itinerary 2024

Last Updated on September 20, 2024

To most of the world, Ethiopia is practically synonymous to famine and drought.

Granted, the famine that plagued Ethiopia between 1970s and 80s killed over a million people. It was one of the worst disasters in the world and millions of dollars were poured in from other countries in the form of aid and relief. 

But that was more than 40 years ago and Ethiopia has since recovered from the disaster. Today’s Ethiopia is very different from what most of us imagine. Its capital city of Addis Ababa in particular has developed tremendously along with the modern world. Ethiopia has become one of the fastest-growing economies in the world and it’s welcoming tourists again.

Table of Contents

Why You Should Visit Ethiopia

Best time to travel ethiopia , how to get to ethiopia, ethiopia travel visa, is it safe to travel ethiopia, travel ethiopia independently or on a tour, my 2-week ethiopia itinerary, explore the capital, addis ababa, visit the rock churches of lalibela, explore historical gonder, hike in simien mountains national park, visit rural villages in guassa conservation area, see the monasteries of lake tana, visit the ancient ruins of aksum, meet the tribes of omo valley, get blown away at the danakil depression, addis ababa: hotel lobelia, guassa conservation area: guassa community lodge , lalibela: seven olives hotel, gonder: queen taytu guesthouse, bahir dar/lake tana: papyrus hotel , what to eat in ethiopia, cost of travel in ethiopia, internet and data in ethiopia, people and language of ethiopia, what to pack for ethiopia, more information on ethiopia travel, ethiopia travel guide.

One thing is for sure, Ethiopia is truly unique — culturally, historically and scenically. I have traveled to 20 countries in Africa and can safely say this country is unlike any other on the continent.

Ethiopia is an extremely mountainous country and boasts highlands rather than the vast savannas that are often associated with Africa. Plus, the country is so diverse that any Ethiopia itinerary will pack in a myriad of experiences, from hiking adventures and visits to tribal villages to history lessons at ancient sites. 

Ethiopia is different from the rest because it is the only country in Africa to have successfully fought off colonisation. It is true that Ethiopians have retained a strong sense of identity and traditions, which have made them very proud and patriotic people.

It is possible to visit Ethiopia anytime of the year — but the best time to visit is from mid-October to January , when the rains have subsided and the countryside is still lush and green. I traveled Ethiopia in January and the temperatures were mild, with sunny days and cool nights.

It is best to avoid traveling Ethiopia during the rainy season, which falls in the summer months (June to August). During this period, roads in the mountains can get flooded and hiking trails may become too slippery.

Many people (including myself) time their trips to Ethiopia to coincide with religious festivals. Here are the biggest festivals of the year, in order of importance in Ethiopia:

• Genna — The biggest festival of the year is equivalent to the Ethiopian Christmas, which falls on 7th January. It marks the end of a 40-day fast, and is celebrated by feasting with the family. You’ll find the biggest celebrations in Lalibela .
• Timkat — The Ethiopian Epiphany is the second biggest festival and it falls on 19th January. The replica of Ark of Covenant is removed from every church in town and paraded around by priests dressed in colorful robes. The biggest celebrations are found in Gonder (Read about my experience celebrating Timkat in Ethiopia ).
• Meskel — This is the country’s most colorful festival, and it falls on 27 September. It’s celebrated by massive cross-topped bonfires and elaborately dressed clergy.

Addis Ababa Bole International Airport is a major hub in Africa, and the national carrier (Ethiopian Airlines) is one of the best airlines in Africa, connecting Addis Ababa to many parts of the world. They  fly direct from many major destinations including London, Singapore and Washington D.C.

Flights from most major cities in Europe to Addis Ababa cost from around 400euros or US$550 return. They’re at their lowest these days, and the cheapest flights are offered by Turkish Airlines. I flew from Malaga, Spain via Istanbul to Addis on Turkish Airlines for 440 euros return. Flights from London to Addis Ababa are as cheap as 380 euros return.

If you’re traveling to Ethiopia from US, flights from New York to Addis Ababa generally cost around US$1000 return with one stopover.

Find Cheap Flights to Addis Ababa

In recent years, it has become very easy to travel to Ethiopia thanks to the new evisa system. It is now possible for citizens of all nationalities to get an Ethiopia evisa online. 

A single-entry evisa that lasts for 30 days cost US$52, while an evisa that lasts 90 days costs $72. The processing time is 3 days.

All you need is a passport photo and your passport that is valid for 6 months. This is the official government website .

How to Get Around Ethiopia

Ethiopia is an extremely mountainous country. Many of its major sights lie on the central plateau and getting anywhere in the region can be a challenging task on its less-than-desirable roads or unpaved mountain dirt tracks. While the Chinese government is building new roads at lightning speed in Ethiopia, many of its roads remain in terrible conditions.

The easiest (and most comfortable) way to get around Ethiopia is by plane. Ethiopian Airlines operate domestic flights all over the country, flying to interesting destinations like Lalibela, Gonder, Bahir Dar and Arba Minch (Omo Valley).

Flights are usually quite affordable (less than US$100 each way), especially if you book them only when you arrive in Ethiopia from a local agent or Ethiopian Airlines office. You’ll also get a considerable discount on domestic flights if you flew Ethiopian Airlines from your home country to Ethiopia.

Search for Domestic Flights in Ethiopia

Traveling Ethiopia by road leaves much to be desired and is recommended only to adventurous travelers who are prepared to explore Ethiopia at its own erratic pace. Bus travel is very cheap, and luxury buses are actually affordable and comfortable.

There are two main  luxury bus  operators: Selam Bus  and Sky Bus. Their buses have comfortable seating, air conditioning, experienced drivers and a fair safety record. Using Addis Ababa as a hub, both companies cover a limited network that includes Bahir Dar, Gondar, Dessie, Harar, Dire Dawa and Hawassa. Unlike most other buses, seats can be booked the day before you travel.

Safety is often the biggest concern for those thinking of traveling to Ethiopia. It is true that the country has been plagued by civil unrest and unpredictable anti-government protests since November 2015.  

My friend who came with me on this trip to Ethiopia was hesitant at first, as her Ethiopian friend advised her not to travel Ethiopia because of the potential danger. The US travel advisory warns its citizens against traveling there — while that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit Ethiopia, I would recommend exercising caution when visiting.

That said, I felt completely safe during our Ethiopia trip and there was no hint of instability. I did however travel with a local tour operator, Aone Ethiopia Travel , and we had a guide most of the time. While in towns like Lalibela and Gonder, we encountered street kids and aggressive “guides”, but that was about the only negative experience we had. 

Ethiopia’s poorly developed infrastructure and remote mountainous attractions make any trip here an adventure. Traveling independently in Ethiopia can be challenging and only recommended for those who have experience traveling in Africa.

I traveled Ethiopia on a private tour with Aone Ethiopia Travel, but I don’t recommend them as the tour was not well organised. If you are looking for something more affordable, I would recommend traveling in a group with G Adventures .

They are a small-group adventure tour operator and I have traveled with them many times (to Antarctica, Brazil, Mongolia etc). Their 10-Day Discover Ethiopia tour is reasonably priced and their Ethiopia itinerary covers the best of Ethiopia.

How Much Time to Travel Ethiopia?

Ethiopia is a big country — there is an incredible amount of things to see in Ethiopia and distances are long. We packed in as much as possible in our 2-week Ethiopia itinerary and still barely scratched the surface.

I explored the major sites like Lalibela and Simien Mountains, but didn’t get to visit the famous Aksum, Omo Valley and the Danakil Depression. Those areas look impressive and definitely worth visiting if you have the time.

I would recommend a minimum of 3 weeks to travel Ethiopia, and even longer if possible. Ethiopia is a truly spectacular country, and every region has its own star attraction.

• Days 1-2: Addis Ababa
• Days 3-4: Guassa Conservation Area
• Days 5- 7: Lalibela
• Days 8-10: Gonder
• Days 11-13: Bahir Dar and Lake Tana
• Day 14: Fly back to Addis Ababa

Best Things to Do in Ethiopia

The country’s capital, Addis Ababa, makes a great introduction to modern Ethiopia with its collection of museums and markets.  The most important sight in Addis Ababa has to be the National Museum of Ethiopia , home to the remains of Lucy (first human being). Other interesting places to visit include Addis Mercato and Holy Trinity Cathedral , as well as the nearby Entoto Mountain for a panorama of the city.

If there’s only one place you can visit in  Ethiopia , make it Lalibela. Perched at an altitude of 2,630m, the hilly town is h ome to 13 rock-hewn churches built in the 12th century. Carved right out of  balsatic scoria  volcanic rocks, these 900-year-old churches were meticulously sculpted below ground level and immaculately preserved until they were discovered by a Portuguese priest in 1520.

Today, the  World Heritage Site is highly protected by UNESCO. What set the churches here apart from other monuments like Petra is that they are still active and fully-functioning. Rise early and visit at dawn to see pilgrims and priests pray and chant in a hypnotizing and spiritual setting. The Lalibela rock churches were easily my favorite place to visit in Ethiopia.

Lauded as the Camelot of Africa, this ancient capital is the stuff of legends, thanks to its treasure trove of 16th century palaces, lavish castles, and sprawling gardens. It is also home to one of the most well preserved churches in Ethiopia that feature impressive wall art.

I was very privileged to be in Gonder for the annual Timkat festival , the Ethiopian Epiphany Day. Locals put on their best traditional costume and reenact the baptism of Jesus Christ (by jumping into the city’s bath). Gonder is known for putting on the biggest Timkat celebrations in the country.

With some of Ethiopia’s highest peaks, the Simien Mountains pack quite a punch when it comes to lofty landscapes. You can spend weeks trekking here and you still won’t see everything in the national park. We woke up very early for a short hike and saw hundreds of gelada monkeys all around us. If you are an avid hiker, make sure to reserve a few days in your Ethiopia itinerary to go hiking around the mountaintop monsteries in Simien Mountains.

Another highlight of my trip to Ethiopia, the largely unknown Guassa Conservation area is a rugged, rural area not too far from Addis Ababa. This 98-square-km conservation area has been protected by the locally community since the 17th century.

It is an excellent area to spot endemic wildlife like the Gelada baboons and the Ethiopian wolf, as well as to immerse in remote local villages that will warmly welcome you. We stayed overnight at a simple hut and went on a long hike down to the bottom of the valley to visit a local village. It was a humbling experience and the landscape was absolutely mindblowing.

Ethiopia’s largest lake (and Africa’s third largest) has a peaceful and serene setting that is worth visiting to escape from the dusty towns. Its waters are inhabited by small pods of hippopotamus, hundreds of endemic species of birds; and its shores are dotted with over 30 monasteries, some of which feature the best mural art in Ethiopia.

Situated in the highlands of northern Ethiopia, Aksum marks the location of the heart of ancient Ethiopia, when the Kingdom of Aksum was the most powerful state in the region. The massive ruins, dating from between the 1st and the 13th century A.D., include monolithic obelisks, giant stelae, royal tombs and the ruins of ancient castles. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Be sure to include this in your Ethiopia itinerary if you are a history buff.

In the remote vast plains of southern Ethiopia, Omo Valley is home to many tribal villages with interesting traditions and culture. Each of the villages has their own customs and language and have lived basically the same lifestyle for centuries.

The Mursi and Hamar are proud people who adorn themselves in unusual body art and jewelry and cattle are vital to their existence. They are also very territorial and will fiercely defend their land and way of life. Even though the region is remote, many tour companies operate tours to the Lower Omo Valley and several of its villages. Just be prepared for a pricey and challenging trip – both logistically and physically.

The Danakil Depression overlaps the borders of Eritrea and Djibouti and is part of the great East African Rift Valley. The climate is unforgiving and widely considered the hottest (average temp of 94F), driest (4 – 8 inches of annual rainfall) and lowest spot (400 feet below sea level) on the planet. Having said all that, this is definitely home to some of the world’s most unearthly landscapes .

The lava lake at Erta Ale is one of only six lava lakes on Earth and will leave you in awe. The multi-colored hydrothermal bubbling lakes and great salt pans will amaze you and have you question if you are still on Planet Earth.

Where to Stay in Ethiopia

Hotel Lobelia was the best place we stayed at in Ethiopia. It’s located just a 5-minute drive from the airport, in the up-and-coming Bole district that’s packed with restaurants and bars. The hotel has comfortable and spacious rooms, and great WiFi and a good breakfast spread. They also provide free airport transfer to the hotel. Check the latest prices here.

This is a simple, rustic lodge in the middle of the protected area. It feels like the middle of nowhere here and is great for getting disconnected and being deep in nature. You’ll have to bring your own food to cook and don’t expect any heating (it gets extremely cold at night!). Find more info on the conservation area website .

A landmark hotel in Lalibela, this is the oldest and most established hotel in town. While it needs some serious renovation work, it has a leafy garden with panoramic views of town and it’s located right in the centre of town, just a 5-minute walk from the churches. Book here.

This is a really cheap hostel just minutes from Gonder’s historical centre. It’s quite basic, but gives a run for your money due to its great location and not-too-scruffy rooms. Book here.

This beachfront hotel was the second best place we stayed at. It feels like a fancy beach resort that needs some sprucing up, but otherwise rooms are spacious, beds are really big and luxurious, and there’s even a swimming pool in the centre of the resort. Check the latest rates.

Before you dismiss the idea of having good food in a country that was once affected by famine, think again. You’ll be surprised to learn that Ethiopian food – much like other aspects of its culture – is some of the most diverse in Africa. It is absolutely unique  and distinctive (the only place in the world that shares Ethiopian food culture is its next door neighbor, Eritrea .)

The country’s main staple is injera , an ubiquitous pancake that is eaten for every meal all over Ethiopia. It is spread out on a large flat basket and simply topped with mounds of spicy meat stews, colorful vegetable curries and even raw cubes of beef. Originally made from tef (indigenous Ethiopian cereal), the injera may taste tangy, bitter and even slightly sour for the first-time taster — but it will grow on you.

Injera is often eaten with wat, an Ethiopian version of curry which can be very spicy. Chicken curry (doro wat) is known as the national dish, and it’s often eaten on religious festivals. Sheep curry (beg wat) is the most common, followed by beef (bere wat). Read my guide on Ethiopian food to learn what and where to eat!

Traveling Ethiopia isn’t exactly cheap — especially if you want to explore the remote regions. Most people, including myself, opt for a guided tour in Ethiopia as that is the best way to cover less-conventional paths in a shorter time.

I traveled with Aone Ethiopia and the 14-day Ethiopia itinerary costs around US$2150 per person. That included all our accommodation (in budget hotels) and transportation in 4×4 vehicle and minivan. Our meals and domestic flights were not included. 

I would definitely travel Ethiopia independently the next time I visit. It is possible to travel Ethiopia on a budget if you stay at guesthouses. A budget hotel in Ethiopia usually costs US$30-50 per night (don’t expect high standards), and food is cheap at around US$2 to 5 per meal in a local eatery or restaurant. A ride on the local bus is affordable, at around US$10 for a 4-hour journey.

Internet connection in Ethiopia has improved tremendously in recent years. You can get pretty good WiFi in most hotels and even guesthouses. Addis Ababa International Airport and other airports in Ethiopia actually offer free and relatively fast WiFi.

3G data connection in Addis Ababa works quite well, though connections are patchy once you leave the capital city.Getting a local SIM is cheap and easy. There is only one telco service provider, which is Ethio Telecom. You can get a SIM card for 30 birr in any Ethio Telecom shop. Make sure to get your SIM registered (required by the government here) and your personal hotspot established.

As well as blocking 3G networks, the Ethiopia government also regularly blocks social media channels. Be sure to  get a VPN for Ethiopia travel.

Ethiopia has a highly diverse population of people. The Tigray, Oromo, Somali and Amhara people make up Ethiopia’s population but there are more than 80 different ethnic groups represented. Some of these ethnicities have as few as 10,000 people.

Amharic is the official language of Ethiopia, but English is also widely spoken in Ethiopia. Learn some basic words like “selam tena jistilign” (hello!) and “ameseginalew” (thank you!) and locals really appreciate it! 

Due to the mountainous terrain, it gets pretty cold in some parts of Ethiopia during the winter months (November to February). But temperatures are mild, reaching around 73°F (23°C) in the day and 42°F (6°C) at night. This number can rise past 30°C on the lowland fringes of eastern, southern and western Ethiopia.

Bring layers regardless of the time you’re visiting Ethiopia. If you’re visiting Ethiopia in summer, t-shirts and long pants will suffice. For those visiting in winter, just bring a light jacket for the chilly nights. Don’t forget your sunscreen and hat as the sun in mountainous Ethiopia can be very strong. During my visit in January, I had on my thick winter jacket on most days.

Many Ethiopian Christian Orthodox ladies (especially in the villages) cover their hair with a white linen cloth. They are not very conservative and do not expect foreigners to cover up. To show some respect and fit in, try to cover your shoulders and knees. 

Have I answered all your questions on Ethiopia travel? Let me know in the comments field below and I will be more than happy to help you out! I hope this article has inspired you to plan your own Ethiopia itinerary!

Here are more articles that I’ve written about Ethiopia and nearby countries in the Horn of Africa:

• Eritrea Travel Guide
• Asmara, Eritrea: An Art Deco City in Africa
• 50 Pictures of Ethiopia
• A Guide to Ethiopian Food
• Celebrating Timkat in Ethiopia
• The Rock Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to companies I use and trust. I get a small commission when you click on my links, at NO EXTRA COST TO YOU.

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Nellie Huang

Nellie Huang is the founder of WildJunket. Originally from Singapore, Nellie has traveled to over 150 countries across 7 continents. As an accomplished travel writer, she has written for BBC Travel, CNN and Rough Guides . She is also the author of five travel books, including the latest Lonely Planet's Mexico guidebook. Read more about her here and follow her on Facebook and Instagram .

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The Comments

For us why visit Ethiopia, its all about the adventures. You can’t get any better than hiking one of the best hikes in the world. The Simien Mountains has epic views and great wildlife.

Hi David, great post. I am rushed for time in Lalibela. Do you think an entire afternoon (2-5) and an am (6am to 11am) if enough time? I know longer is better but I am pressed for time. thanks

hi Niraj, thanks for dropping by! Yes it would be possible but you’ll probably only get to see some of the temples, not all. Still if you’re pressed for time, it is definitely possible. The town is small and it’s easy to walk from one temple to another.

Hi, I just want to update as of December 2018, all countries are eligible for e-Visa to Ethiopia. Amongst these, most get visa-free travel to Ethiopia (including all Africa countries).

Wow that’s great news! It was quite a pain for me to get my visa as I had to mail my passport back home to get the visa. Brilliant, thank you!

Elías García

As I recently traveled to Ethiopia (and enjoyed 100% this amazing wild land) and needed an electronic visa to get in the country, definetely I can advice you to obtain it in advance so you will save time and avod long lines! You can also check the requirements and eligible countries.

What exactly you mean by two passport photos? We need get two separate photos of passport size along with what’s already in our passport??

Yes, you need two separate passport-sized photos besides your passport.

It took me a bit longer time to read this blog completely, but I must say, you have really changed my way of looking at Ethiopia. I have never gone through so much information in one single article regarding this place. The history, the culture has really created a spark inside me, to visit this place soon.

Hike to the Massif of Abune Yosef near Lalibela is recommended for its off the beaten path trek, wild-life and village to village hike.

Thanks for the great writeup. The headline mentioned this as a 2020 guide. Is the photo from Erta Ale from 2020? I have read that recently, the lava lake is quite low and obscured by smoke. Do you have any info about that?

hi Dan, I’m afraid the photo is from 2018. Sorry I’m not informed about the current situation at Erta Ale. It’s best to email a tour operator who runs tours there.

ALEX THOMPSON

I honestly like Ethiopian Airlines — they’ve never been late for me, gotten me to my destination when other airlines had canceled my flight but they have some airline policies that are hard to understand.

Mahlet Kebede

I really surprised, you explain and narrate Ethiopian tourist attractions very well, Of course it is very help full to prepare my own itinerary, Thanks a lot.

Thanks for your detailed guide, Nellie! I really enjoyed reading it as it reminded me a lot of my own travel experiences to Ethiopia last year.

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Home » Africa » EPIC Backpacking Ethiopia Travel Guide (2024)

EPIC Backpacking Ethiopia Travel Guide (2024)

Would you be up to traveling 7 years back in time? What about experiencing the sunrise at 1 am?

Ethiopia is a unique and magical country. They have their own calendar (they are right now in 2015), hours (they start counting from sunrise) and religion (Ethiopian Orthodox), and it is home to more than 90 ethnic groups and 80 languages. 

If you are willing to know Ethiopia beyond the horrible events that have affected it over the last decades, you will discover a country with a history that dates back to more than 3,000 thousand years ago, which is not particularly common in Sub-saharan Africa, and with some of the most astonishing historical and natural sites in the world. 

Nonetheless, Ethiopia is a country that has been severely affected by poverty, armed conflicts and political instability, which have made backpacking Ethiopia a challenging experience. Hence, traveling to Ethiopia is not for everyone. 

Only for those of you who believe that adventure and getting out of the comfort zone are essential parts in life, I have prepared this detailed Ethiopia travel guide to help you embark on one of the most remarkable experiences of your life.

Let’s get to it.

Who Go Backpacking in Ethiopia?

Ethiopia is, together with Liberia, the only country in Africa that was never colonized. This is a huge source of pride for Ethiopians and has allowed the country to maintain its culture and traditions isolated from colonial influence. It also makes traveling in Ethiopia feel like you are getting into a completely different world.

I have lived in Ethiopia for more than five months and I can assure you that it doesn’t matter how much time you spend there, Ethiopia will keep on surprising you until the day you leave.

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Traveling around Ethiopia is an experience full of emotions. You will witness huge economic differences and chaos. You will constantly be stared at. You will experience the high levels of religiosity and mysticism that govern Ethiopian society. You will enjoy a radically unique gastronomy. And, above all, you will experience enormous diversity.

History in the north, tribes in the south, and Islamic influence in the east, all surrounded by magnificent landscapes and natural attractions, make Ethiopia the perfect travel destination for those who like to avoid monotony in their trips.

Best Travel Itineraries for Backpacking Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a huge country of the size of France and Spain combined. The vast amount of amazing sites to visit and the depth of its diverse culture and its ancient history would allow you to spend several months in the country without having discovered half of it. 

The northern part of Ethiopia is more historical, although it also has some natural attractions like the Simien Mountains and the Danakil Depression, while the southern part of the country may be better for serious adventure travelers willing to immerse more into the wildlife and the tribes Ethiopia is home to.

10-Days Travel Itinerary for Ethiopia – The Historical North

It must be said that 10 days are not enough to visit the whole country, however, with this itinerary through the northern part of Ethiopia, you can get a strong idea about its culture and the ancient history that has shaped the country in such a unique manner. The itinerary is reduced to the Amhara region , which was home to the different Ethiopian capital cities and kings for centuries.

If you access Ethiopia by plane, which is the most common and recommended way to enter the country, every trip will start in Addis Ababa . Even though there may not be too many astonishing attractions in Addis, I would recommend spending at least one day until you head on to the next destination. 

It is possible to reach Bahir Dar by public transportation, however, with a constrained calendar it may be better to get there by plane as it can easily take a whole day to reach it. From there, you can move from one place to another with public buses or hire a driver to take you around. 

I would spend at least a whole day in Bahir Dar and Gondar and then spend at least two whole days both in the Simien Mountains and Lalibela . In the latter, it would be recommendable to save a day to hike to the monasteries in the area, although you can see even more if you have time. 

I wouldn’t recommend spending less than 10 days in Ethiopia.

18-Days Travel Itinerary for Ethiopia – The Historical North & The East

This itinerary adds two more destinations to the previous one. 

From Lalibela, you could head on by public transportation to Semera , where all the organized trips to the Danakil Depression are currently starting. Organized trips are compulsory to visit Danakil Depression and they usually vary from 1 to 4 nights.

Depending on your interest and time and budget constraints, I would advise going for the 2 or 3 nights tours. Before the Tigray conflict started, it was also possible to start organized trips from Mekele.

The trip will take you back to Semera from where you can take a long bus ride to Harar , where you can explore the city and embark in the available activities for one or two days. There is no airport in Harar, however, Dire Dawa , the second largest city in the country is close and you can fly back to Addis from there. 

1-Month Travel Itinerary for Ethiopia – The Whole Country

This itinerary includes the previous one and the southern part of the country and it will allow you to fully explore the huge cultural diversity existing within Ethiopian society. This itinerary can also serve those more interested in exploring the southern part of Ethiopia.

Regardless of whether you have already done the northern itinerary or just arrived in the country, to explore the south, you should start in Addis . This itinerary is done for those willing to travel this area by land and willing to spend between 10 and 14 days.

Nonetheless, the main motivation to travel to this area is usually to reach Arba Minch or Jinka , where you can access tribal and wildlife experiences. Therefore, it is also possible to access these two cities directly by plane and spend the whole time there. 

If going by land it would be recommendable to spend one night both in Langano and Awasha and at least a couple of them in the Bale Mountains, the place in the country where it’s easier to spot the Ethiopian Wolf. 

On your way south, you can also visit the Rastafari community of Shashamane , although it is not 100% advisable due to reported incidents towards tourists. 

Once in Arba Minch and Jinka, it is generally compulsory to hire a tour operator to embark on tribal experiences, usually located inside the National Parks.

To go back to Addis, you can fly from both cities.

Best Places to Visit in Ethiopia

Backpacking Ethiopia is all about experiencing the enormous diversity and uniqueness of its different destinations.

From walking through its vibrant capital city to being completely unable to communicate in isolated villages, Ethiopia offers attractions for all kinds of preferences and is a true treat for slow travelers .

Backpacking Addis Ababa

Addis, as the locals refer to it, is known to be the diplomatic capital of Africa as it hosts the African Union headquarters. Even though it may not have the most beautiful sites, I would recommend spending at least one or two days exploring the city. Compared to other African capital cities it is relatively safe to walk around.

The main attractions in Addis would be the National Museum, the Ethnological Museum, and, of course, Merkato , the biggest open-air market in Africa, where you can wander around its busy narrow streets and experience the life of the country’s trade center. Addis also offers the best nightlife and gastronomical options in the whole country.

Backpacking Lalibela

Probably the most important tourist attraction in the whole country. However, it must be said that its popularity is well deserved. It’s one of those destinations that will appeal to everyone from hardcore budget backpackers to luxury tour groups.

The town of Lalibela is home to a group of 11 rock-hewn churches from the 12th century. These churches were carved from the ground and, hence, built from top to bottom. They were built underground so that the enemies wouldn’t be able to spot them from a long distance.

Besides its beauty and historical interest, what makes Lalibela unique and different from other historical attractions is that it continues to have a high degree of religious activity. While visiting Lalibela you will encounter hundreds of pilgrims and priests praying and camping in the churches’ compound. Just remember to take off your shoes before entering a church.

Backpacking Gondar

The historical city of Gondar is located in the northwest of the country and it will be the first relatively big city you will find if you are entering Ethiopia by land from Sudan. 

Gondar was the capital city of the Kingdom of Abyssinia until the second half of the 19th century and it’s home to the Fasil Ghebbi citadel where the successive kings since the 17th century built their castles.

It is not necessary to spend more than one day in Gondar and it’s a perfect stopover on your way to the Simien Mountains National Park.

Backpacking Simien Mountains

The “Roof of Africa”, as it is also known, is an extensive National Park with more than a dozen peaks with a height of more than 4,000 meters. It is also home to Ethiopian endemic animals like the walia, the gelada monkey and the Ethiopian wolf.

The Simien Mountains are located 2 hours north from Gondar by car. It is highly recommendable to spend at least one night camping in the national park in order to enjoy sunrise and sunset treks. However, it is possible to extend the trek up to a week and reach Ras Dashen’s peak, the highest mountain in Ethiopia.

It is compulsory to be accompanied by a scout during your stay in the Simien Mountains and it is also recommendable to hire a guide who knows the National Park, especially if you are not planning to stay too much time inside, as it has a wide range of alternative paths that can led you to end up a bit lost.

Backpacking Bahir Dar

Located on the south coast of Lake Tana, the biggest lake in Ethiopia, Bahir Dar is the third biggest town in the country and is the capital city of the Amhara region. The main attraction in Bahir Dar is the monastery islands inside of the lake, where you can see how priests devote their time to their spiritual duties in an incredibly charming and isolated environment.

While in Bahir Dar, it is also recommendable to go on a one-hour drive to the Blue Nile Falls. The best time to visit the falls is during the rainy season, when the falls are wider and more powerful, and the landscape surrounding them is greener. Nonetheless, they can also be visited during the rest of the year but before going it is advisable to check out if the activity of the dam nearby is shortening the water supply to the falls.

Besides these attractions, Bahir Dar is a charming city with the comforts of a metropolitan area but without the overwhelm that you may find in Addis Ababa.

Backpacking Danakil Depression

This area located in the Afar region some 15 km away from the border with Eritrea, in the northeast of Ethiopia, is considered the most inhospitable place on Earth because of its high temperatures (usually around 50º degrees Celsius) and the presence of active volcanoes and high quantities of sulfur. 

However, a trip to the Danakil Depression also offers the opportunity to immerse in one of the most unique landscapes in the world. You will be able to see the work of the rough Afar miners in the salt lakes, the picturesque colors of Dallol, and the active Erta Ale volcano.

The inhospitality of the region makes it compulsory to be accompanied by armed scouts during your visit to the Danakil Depression. In addition, the trip involves long driving hours through a difficult environment. Hence, you should organize your trip to Danakil with a travel company, which will start the trip from Mekele (currently not available because of the conflict situation in Tigray) or Semera. Prices are high but it is the only way to visit this remote land.

Backpacking Harar

The walled city of Harar is located in the eastern part of Ethiopia, close to the border with Somaliland. As in much of this part of Ethiopia, Islam is the dominant religion, and Harar features the characteristics of Arabic-style architecture and urban design. 

One of the biggest charms that Harar offers is getting lost through its narrow streets to appreciate the lifestyle of the inhabitants of this 13th-century town. In addition, during sunset, it is possible to get outside of the city walls and feed the hyenas that abundantly populate Harar. 

Like in other parts of Ethiopia and the Horn of Africa, many of the inhabitants of Harar will spend several hours per day chewing khat. This plant with stimulant effects must be chewed for hours in order to truly notice its effect.

Backpacking Arba Minch

Arba Minch is the most populated city in the southern part of Ethiopia. It is located beside lakes Chamo and Abaya. A boat cruise in Lake Chamo will offer you the opportunity to spot hippos and Nile crocodiles, the biggest kind in the world, apart from the lifestyle of the intrepid fishermen who embark every day in these dangerous waters.

Arba Minch is often used by visitors as the base to explore the different indigenous tribes that populate this part of the country. A two-hour drive to the south from Arba Minch you can find the UNESCO village of Konso, where the Konso people live in a centuries-old walled town. 

The city of Jinka, located to the southwest of Arba Minch, is also used as a base to explore the remote tribes of the Omo Valley. However, this experience has a high cost and, from a personal opinion, is a bit uncomfortable to just wander around a place where the only reason why they accept you being there is that you are paying them.

Getting Off the Beaten Path in Ethiopia

Backpacking Ethiopia is in itself an off the beaten path experience . Even in Lalibela, the “most touristic” attraction in the country you will find out that 90% of the people are there for non-touristic reasons. 

Having said this, Ethiopia also offers the opportunity to immerse in communities and villages that live 100% isolated from the outside world, without internet access and reliant on traditional trade rather than on the use of currency.

When traveling Ethiopia by land, it is easy to recognize this kind of town and I will highly encourage you to spend a couple of hours trying to interact with the locals there. However, don’t expect them to know English.

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Top Things to Do in Ethiopia

These are the best things to see and do in Ethiopia…

1. Explore Lalibela

Probably one of the highlights and indispensable destinations when traveling in Ethiopia. Despite the beauty and the magnificent architectural characteristics of Lalibela, wandering around the churches’ compound and observing how people behave inside the churches is the best way to understand the degree of religiosity of Ethiopia.

Depending on the time you have you can decide whether to do this on your own or with a local guide. If you have time constraints I will highly recommend hiring a guide to show you all the highlights in the compound.

2. Camp in the Simien Mountains

After having spent some days exploring the overwhelming streets of different Ethiopian sites, arriving at the Simien Mountains feels like entering an oasis in the middle of the desert.

You should spend at least one night to experience one of the best sunsets that you will ever see. Standing on the edge of a 4000 meters high mountain while the sun comes down and the Gelada monkeys start climbing the cliffs to find the place where they will spend the night is one of the most beautiful natural experiences in the whole world.

While trekking, it is important to pay attention to the endemic Ethiopian wolf, who may surprise you while trying to hunt some moles in the ground. Also, remember to bring your winter clothes as during the night it gets freezing cold.

3. See the Danakil Depression

Besides its reputation as the most inhospitable place on Earth, embarking on a Danakil Depression trip is a hell of an adventure. Whether you spend 2,3 or 4 nights there, visiting Danakil is one of those experiences that make you feel relieved they are over while at the same time, you don’t regret having gone through them. 

The heat, the lack of showers, or the armed company, are clearly compensated by the feeling of entering a whole new planet in which all your five senses will be exposed to radically new sensations.

4. Discover the Island Monasteries in Lake Tana

Hire a boat to take you around Lake Tana, exploring its completely isolated and peaceful island monasteries. There are five of them, however, it may be enough to arrange with the boat captain to just visit three or four.

Debre Maryam is the most popular one and has a bigger tourist infrastructure with shops and bars, thus, while worth spending half an hour there, you should head on to smaller and more isolated ones like Daga Stefanos or Kergan Gabriel. 

In these monasteries, you will most certainly be the only person on the island besides the priests that live there and who dedicate their lives to praying and meditating in such a quiet, green and peaceful environment. During your boat ride you will also be able to spot hippos.

5. Get lost in the streets of Harar

For those travelers who really enjoy cultural shocks and walking around completely different cities, wandering around the narrow streets of Harar will probably be one of the highlights of their trip to Ethiopia. 

After having been immersed in the Ethiopian Orthodox spirituality of the monasteries of Lake Tana or Lalibela, arriving to Harar will be a perfect reminder of the 35% Muslim population in the country. Mosques, markets, khat, narrow streets, and hyenas, are the key elements that make Harar a unique place to visit in Ethiopia.

6. Experience the African “Middle Age” in Fasil Ghebbi

The castle compound of Fasil Ghebbi in the city of Gondar has nothing to envy to many of the castles’ compounds located around Europe. The first of these castles was built by King Fasil Ghebbi in 1636. After building this castle, his successors built their own castles in the same compound.

Wandering around the compound is a unique experience in Africa, as it gives the feeling of being back in one of Europe’s middle age towns. Nonetheless, the conditions of the castles vary from one another as they have been affected by the Sudanese invasions or World War II bombs. 

7. Immerse into the Merkato Experience

Apart from being the biggest open-air market in Africa, Merkato is also characterized for being the most overwhelming place in the whole country, without any doubt. Some may recommend going to Merkato with a guide as sometimes it can be excessively overwhelming, however, I think that to fully experience it is better to go on your own.

Any kind of goods are sold in Merkato, from cows to washing machines, and it is the place from where all the goods are distributed to the rest of the country. I will also recommend going to one of the rooftops in the buildings of Merkato to truly realize the dimensions of the market. 

Although it is possible to find souvenirs and touristic items, I would recommend buying them on Churchill Avenue as prices for these kinds of products are higher in Merkato.

8. Visit Tribes in the Omo Valley 

Although I am not the biggest fan of the tribal experiences, opinions about it are very diverse, and it is one of the main reasons why Ethiopia receives tourists every year. Therefore, I felt like I should include it among the top things to do. 

In order to visit tribes like the Mursi or the Hammer, among the most isolated and popular ones to visit, it is necessary to arrange it through a local guide. During the experience, they will let you know how these people live and their traditions. Also, they will have a preset schedule including dances or something of that sort.

You will also be constantly asked to pay to take pictures of them, buy souvenirs or just give them tips to support their community. While it may seem good to help these communities, I have mixed feelings about it, as some of their traditions include the perpetration of gender-based or infant-oriented crimes.

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Backpacker Accommodation in Ethiopia

Ethiopia does not have a fully developed backpacking or touristic infrastructure. Therefore, the availability of accommodation for people visiting the country is quite limited and, many times, oriented toward luxury visitors. 

When traveling around Ethiopia, don’t expect to find fancy hostels with a nice bar and a great backpackers’ party scene .

However, you can still find very decent options around the country to sleep in clean and affordable places. In addition, the kind of travelers you will meet in these places will certainly be on the same page as you, looking for adventure and real experiences. 

Addis will be the destination where you can more easily find accommodation as is the most developed part of the country by far. Outside of Addis options are more limited and, as was mentioned, in the touristic destinations, accommodation is more oriented towards the rich.

It is also important to bear in mind that Ethiopia is not very digitized, hence, in some places, it is just better to try to find accommodation in the old-school way. Get out your map and check out the options you have around you.

The Best Places to Stay in Ethiopia

Ethiopia backpacking costs.

The costs of backpacking Ethiopia depend a lot on two factors: the number of organized activities you want to get involved in and how keen you are on living the local way during your stay. 

As it was mentioned in the previous sections, for some of the main attractions in Ethiopia, like the Simien Mountains, the Omo Valley, or Danakil Depression, it is necessary to hire guides with transportation and expertise in the area visited. These guides are used to organize excursions for wealthy visitors, which makes them expensive. In addition, costs like entrance fees and car rental are high in Ethiopia. 

The other main determinant of your expenses will be how dependent you are on living by Western standards. If you decide to eat and drink in local places, and you are not too exquisite about the places you sleep at, then money in Ethiopia can go for a long time.

However, be warned that both the food and the accommodation standards differ hugely from the ones in your country of origin. Another important aspect will be whether you decide to fly, hire a driver or move around by public transportation. 

Therefore, backpacking Ethiopia on a tight budget can be quite challenging as it does not offer too many middle-range options in terms of accommodation, transportation, activities, or food. However, I don’t think that anyone who is not up for a challenge would even think about backpacking Ethiopia.

Money in Ethiopia

The currency in Ethiopia is the Birr. Find out how much your money is worth today by using the up-to-date converter below. The biggest bill is 200 Birrs, so remember to arrange some space for the money once you have it.

It will be quite difficult to find Ethiopian currency out of the country so your best option will be to either withdraw from a bank or exchange at the forex bureau in the banks. In Addis it is easy to get money, however, when you head on to other destinations it can be difficult or even impossible. Hence, try to carry all the cash you will need from Addis.

Also, Ethiopia is a really cash-based economy and only in Westernized restaurants and accommodations you will have your credit and debit cards accepted, so prepare yourself to pay all the expenses in cash.

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A Daily Budget in Ethiopia

Travel tips – ethiopia on a budget.

• Eat Local Food : Ethiopian cuisine is unique and despite it may be a bit of a shock at the beginning, you can grow to really love it. In local restaurants, you can spend 2-3$ per meal and end up completely full. 
• Camp : Even though you can’t camp wherever you go when visiting National Parks like the Simien Mountains it will save you a lot of money (and also improve your experience) to pack your camping gear and enjoy sleeping in the wild.
• Use public transportation : while it can be challenging and uncomfortable, traveling around Ethiopia through public transportation is a hell of a rewarding experience, both for your wallet and your soul.
• Limit the amount of tour-required destinations : if you are on a tight budget it is better to reduce the number of activities that require hiring a guide and transportation. While there are amazing places to see in Ethiopia, the highlight of traveling here is getting fully immersed in its unique culture.

Why You Should Travel to Ethiopia with a Water Bottle 

Although the streets can be dirty, please be responsible enough to not be a part of it. It is not only about spoiling the beauty of the places or climate change, the health of Ethiopians can be severely affected if the trash you throw away ends up in the river where they get their water from. 

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Best Time to Travel to Ethiopia

Ethiopia’s weather is divided into the rainy season and the dry season. The rainy season lasts for the months of the Western hemisphere summer, from June to September. The probability of getting rain during the rest of the year is very small. 

Addis’ weather is mild during the whole year due to its high altitude (2500m) and, besides the rainy season, temperatures stay between 10º and 25º C. 

In areas with lower altitudes, it can get hotter. The months before the rainy season are usually the hottest ones throughout the country. Among the touristic destinations, places like Danakil Depression, where temperatures are high throughout the whole year, or the Simien Mountains, where it is cool the whole year, follow their own rules.

What to Pack for Ethiopia

While it doesn’t have strict dress rules, Ethiopia is a conservative country, and as such some kinds of outfits, especially when it comes to women, may be quite shocking for the local people. 

Also, when visiting churches, like Lalibela, your shoulders and legs should be covered. In addition, women must cover their hair.

Travel Security Belt

This is a regular looking belt with a concealed pocket on the inside – you can hide up to twenty notes inside and wear it through airport scanners without it setting them off.

Microfiber Towel

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Petzl Actik Core Headlamp

A decent head torch could save your life. If you want to explore caves, unlit temples, or simply find your way to the bathroom during a blackout, a headtorch is a must.

‘Monopoly Deal’

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Hanging Laundry Bag

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Staying Safe in Ethiopia

As a developing country severely affected by war, Ethiopia faces different challenges that may affect the stability and safety of certain areas. However, if you avoid those areas, traveling in Ethiopia is not dangerous compared to other African countries. 

In November 2022, the Federal Government of Ethiopia and the Tigray People’s Liberation Front signed a peace agreement to put an end to the two years war in the northern region of Tigray. Even though the situation is improving, traveling to Tigray is still strongly discouraged.

This Ethiopia backpacking guide doesn’t include any recommendations for places or things to do inside the Tigray region. Other areas of the country may be affected by sudden violent clashes so it’s important to stay updated on the situation. 

Besides the danger of conflict, in touristic places, you can find petty crime and the usual scamming. Violent crime in Ethiopia is unusual, however, it is important to avoid walking around during the night, especially while in Addis. Apart from that, try to avoid flashing any valuables and keep an eye on your belongings.

Sex, Drugs, and Rock ‘n’ Roll in Ethiopia

If you are looking for a destination to go crazy, meet tons of backpackers, and stay every night until the sun comes up, then you should look for a different destination. A trip to Ethiopia will not be remembered by its wild nights out. 

This doesn’t mean that you can’t unwind by drinking a couple beers in the local bars spread all over the country. In addition, Addis has an active nightlife with plenty of options to party until the late hours of the night. It is possible to find hard drugs in Addis’ nightlife, however, I don’t believe it is worth taking the risk of getting caught. 

In the case of weed, due to the Ethiopian bond with the Rastafari community, it is, in the framework of a conservative country, more socially acceptable. However, again, you don’t want to be caught in an African country carrying drugs around. My recommendation is to stay away from illegal drugs during your stay in Ethiopia. 

However, khat is very popular and legal in Ethiopia. Khat is a stimulant plant that has to be chewed for hours in order to truly feel its effects. Its cheap price and legal condition make it a part of the daily life of many inhabitants of the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula.

Ethiopian society is very conservative in general and, as such, it may be difficult to get involved with locals in short periods of time. In addition, a very low percentage of the local population speaks English, which reduces the possibility of establishing bonds. Nonetheless, in Addis’ nightlife, you may end up meeting lots of local and international open-minded people. 

Homosexuality is illegal in Ethiopia and if accused you may even end up spending some time in jail. Besides being illegal, Ethiopian society does not approve of homosexuality either, so it is better to refrain from any kind of behavior that may lead someone to think that you are an LGBT traveler . If traveling with your partner, remain cautious even in your accommodation.

Getting Insured BEFORE Visiting Ethiopia

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How to Get Into Ethiopia

The most common and recommended way to enter Ethiopia is through Addis Ababa Bole International Airport. Ethiopian Airlines is very well connected worldwide, while there are other airlines that also operate in the country. 

Entering by land to Ethiopia is generally not advisable due to insecurity in the borders and the unstable political situation of neighbors like Eritrea, Somalia, and South Sudan. Djibouti will probably be the safest land border and there is a direct train that connects Addis and Djibouti.

Entry Requirements for Ethiopia

Ethiopia has an online visa service, which allows visitors to apply for their visas through the immigration website. Tourists, as of May 2023, have two possibilities for visas:

• 30 days : 82 USD
• 90 days : 202 USD

The approval process for the tourist visa usually takes 3 working days.

How to Get Around Ethiopia

Distances in Ethiopia can be very long. If you add this to the fact that some of the touristic destinations cannot be reached by public transportation or with your own car, during the time you spend in Ethiopia you will probably have to move by different means of transportation.

Ethiopian Airlines is the only airline that operates flights between domestic destinations. The flights can be booked in person in the Ethiopian Airlines office in the Hilton Hotel in Addis Ababa.

The prices of one-way flights are around 70$ if you have entered the country with Ethiopian Airlines and around 140$ if you haven’t. 

The extent to which you will have to resource to flights depends on the budget and time constraints that you have, however, in order to reach the northern cities it may be advisable to take a flight to save a whole day of public transportation

Traveling by land in Ethiopia can be quite an experience, as it is the only way to see how people in rural areas truly live and to admire the astonishing landscapes of the country. 

Although interurban roads are, in general terms, in good conditions, it is difficult to find car rental companies for reasonable prices to move outside of Addis.

Hence, if you are not willing to move around the country by public transportation, you will have to hire a driver with their own car, which can turn out to be quite expensive. On the other hand, having a driver hired for everything will spare you from having to find guides in places like the Simien Mountains or the Omo Valley.

Your last option is to move around by public transportation, which is the most immersive and cheap means of transportation, however, it will also be the more difficult. There is no online information about buses and the level of English is generally low in Ethiopia, so finding the right bus can be a hell of a challenge. It all depends on your desire for adventure and your financial capacity.

Onwards Travel from Ethiopia

As mentioned in previous sections, traveling by land to neighboring countries may be difficult due to security risks. However, if possible, backpacking Kenya would probably be the more attractive option to continue with the adventure by land. There are buses that can take you to the bordering town of Moyale where you can get into Kenya and explore the off-the-beaten-path northern part of the country.

In addition, the wide range of connections that Ethiopian Airlines has with other African states will allow you to take a flight to other destinations inside the continent. Kenya, Uganda, or Tanzania are usually the cheaper options available, however, going to other destinations, like Madagascar, would allow you to save a lot of money compared to the flight prices you would pay from your home country.

Working and Volunteering in Ethiopia

Finding job opportunities in Ethiopia is not an easy task and it is mainly available in the humanitarian, international relations, and development fields. In addition, job permits in Ethiopia are not easily accessible to foreigners. 

There is also not a huge digital nomad scene . The lack of touristic affluence, which usually preludes digital nomadism, together with (relatively true) prejudices about internet accessibility or living conditions, has dissuaded Ethiopia from being a part of this phenomenon.

While living conditions may not be as comfortable as in other destinations, working as a digital nomad in Ethiopia will also provide you with the opportunity to live an absolutely off-the-beaten-track experience and to understand the way of living of this unique society. Regarding internet accessibility, internet access has improved a lot in the last years and the majority of Westernized accommodation includes power generators for power cuts.

During the time I have spent in Ethiopia, I have met some remote workers who were able to maintain their job after living in Ethiopia for more than two years. It must also be said that Addis would be the best, and maybe the only place where you would be able to establish yourself as a digital nomad.

Teaching English in Ethiopia 

English is not widespread in Ethiopia, which means that there is an enormous demand for English speakers in the country. However, in many cases knowing the local language may be required. Furthermore, you will most probably have to be sponsored for your job permit by your employer, who may not be willing to go through such a process if you are considering a short-term stay in the country.

Volunteering in Ethiopia

Volunteering is necessary everywhere and lending a hand through this type of experience is a really beneficial experience both for society and for yourself. Having said this, it is undeniable that there are places that need it more than others and Ethiopia is undoubtedly one of those places. Hence, I would highly encourage you to come to Ethiopia for your volunteer experience . 

If you want to find volunteer opportunities in Ethiopia, then we recommend that you sign up for Worldpackers – a volunteer platform that connects local hosts directly with traveling volunteers.

Whenever you are volunteering, do stay vigilant especially when working with animals or children. Volunteer programs run through reputable work exchange programs are very well managed.

Ethiopian Culture

As it has been intensely stated in this guide, Ethiopian culture is absolutely unique and diverse mainly because of religion and ethnic diversity.

Ethiopia is one of the most ancient countries in the world and also the second country to adopt Christianity as a state religion in the 4th century, only after Armenia.

While dependent on the Egyptian Coptic Church until the 20th century, Ethiopia has been isolated from the rest of the Christian states for many centuries, which has led the Ethiopian Orthodox Church to develop a lot of unique characteristics compared to the rest of the Christian world.

Ethiopian orthodox followers do not eat pork, and do not eat animals that they haven’t killed themselves, with the exception of cows killed in orthodox butcheries. They also fast for more than half of the year. Furthermore, the high percentage of Muslims in the country and the peaceful coexistence of both religions is another fascinating feature of Ethiopian religiosity.

Ethiopia is populated by more than 90 different ethnic groups with radically diverse traditions and which are generally geographically distributed throughout the country, although a fair amount of coexistence takes place in different areas.

The sizes of the ethnic groups are very varied. The main ones are the Amhara, Tigrinya, Oromo, and Somali. On the other hand, very small ethnic groups inhabit the Omo Valley and other areas in the south, maintaining intact their ancient tribal traditions and ways of living. The interethnic relations in the country have been characterized by continuous conflict and power struggles until nowadays.

From personal experience, I can tell that it is better to refrain from discussing politics and interethnic conflicts, as it is a very delicate matter, about which Ethiopians have very strong opinions. 

Ethiopia is also known for its vibrant music, dance, and art scenes. Traditional Ethiopian music is characterized by its use of unique instruments such as the masinko, krar, and washint, as well as complex rhythms and vocal harmonies. Ethiopian dance is also highly expressive and often incorporates intricate footwork and gestures.

Ethiopian society is also very closed towards foreigners, which can be wrongly interpreted as Ethiopians being rude or skeptical. The truth is that the lack of tourism and of a colonial past means that they are just not used to foreigners and they will observe you with intense curiosity.

However, once you pass the initial cultural barrier and manage to communicate with them, you will realize that they are generous and open to meeting new people in many cases. I can’t count the times I have been offered to share lunch with someone while walking down the street.

Useful Travel Phrases for Ethiopia

The vast amount of ethnic groups in the country also translates into a vast amount of languages spoken in Ethiopia. Estimates establish the number of languages is around 80. Among them, Amharic is the most widely spoken language and used by the government. Nonetheless, I wouldn’t say that more than half of the population of the country speaks Amharic. 

Amharic is a Semitic language with a unique alphabet. This makes it quite difficult for a foreigner to learn and understand it in a short period of time. Other languages spoken in the country are Oromo, Somali, and Tigrinya. 

The level of English of the population is low in Addis, while practically non-existent in the rest of the country.

Hence, here I have left some useful phrases to get you through this experience:

Hello : Salam neh (for man) / nesh (for women)

How are you? : Indet neh  / nesh 

Good morning : Indemin aderk /adesh

I don’t speak Amharic : Amarinya ailnagerim

Sorry : Yqerta

Enjoy : Tedeseti

No problem : Chigrilam

Where is the toilet? : sente bet yate naw?

Help : Meridati

Beautiful : Konjo

Good : Arifno

What to Eat in Ethiopia

One of Ethiopia’s main cultural or economic sources is coffee or “bunna” in Amharic. The word coffee comes from the Kaffa region located in southeast Ethiopia.

Apart from being one of the best coffees in the world, Ethiopian coffee is also the center of many social meetings, in which the hosts cover the floor with grass, light up some smelling species, and offer snacks to eat.

While walking around you will find plenty of women preparing and selling coffee in the street. Don’t hesitate to have one and see if you are lucky and they perform at least a part of the ceremony.

Food in Ethiopia may vary from one region to another or from the fasting period to the non-fasting period, however, every Ethiopian dish is served on top of an injera . The injera is a very flat and soft kind of bread, which is made of an abundant cereal in Ethiopia called teff.

It doesn’t have a lot of flavor, although it may taste sour if you are not used to it. On top of the injera, all kinds of stews and foods are served. The injera is used both as a plate and as cutlery, as you have to cut it, only with your right hand, and grab the food on top with it.

Must-Try Dishes in Ethiopia

Tibs : one of the most common Ethiopian dishes. It is a stew made of beef or lamb cooked with sauce, spices and vegetables like onions and, sometimes, tomatoes.

Doro wat : is the dish eaten in celebrations and one of the favorites of Ethiopians. It is a chicken (doro) stew cooked with over 40 spices and boiled eggs. It can be very spicy.

Shiro : it is kind of a dense curry made out of chickpeas and different spices. It is also one of the most common dishes and very popular during the fasting season. It can also include chilly.

Kitfo : it is made of spiced dices of raw beef. One of the spices used to prepare it is the mitmita, a common Ethiopian spice, which is very hot.

Tere siga : it is basically raw beef cut in medium size pieces. It is served with a spicy sauce, in which you can dip, helped by the injera.

A Brief History of Ethiopia

Ethiopia’s earliest known history is traced back to the kingdom of D’mt, which is believed to have existed around 1000 BCE. The kingdom of Aksum, which emerged in the 1st century CE, is considered one of the greatest empires in ancient Africa.

Aksum was known for its advanced architecture, trade, and Christianity. The kingdom’s influence extended throughout the region, including parts of modern-day Yemen and Sudan.

During the 16th century, Ethiopia went through a period of political instability, with several rival factions vying for power. The country was eventually reunited under Emperor Fasilides, who founded the city of Gondar as his capital.

In the 19th century, Ethiopia faced increasing pressure from European powers seeking to colonize the country. However, Emperor Menelik II successfully resisted these efforts, defeating Italian forces at the Battle of Adwa in 1896.

Ethiopia underwent significant changes during the 20th century. In 1930, Haile Selassie became Emperor of Ethiopia, ushering in a period of modernization and economic growth.

However, his reign was also marked by political repression and a lack of democracy. In 1974, a socialist military junta known as the Derg overthrew the monarchy and established a Marxist-Leninist government. This period was marked by political violence, famine, and economic decline.

In 1991, the Derg was overthrown by rebel forces led by the Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF). The EPRDF established a new constitution, and Ethiopia transitioned to a federal system of government.

Despite some progress in democracy and human rights, Ethiopia has also faced challenges in recent years, including ethnic tensions, political unrest, and conflicts in regions like Tigray.

Overall, Ethiopia has a rich and complex history, with a legacy that has influenced the region and the world.

Rastafari Movement

Haile Selassie, who was also known as Ras Tafari, was a figure of great importance to the Rastafari movement. Many Rastafarians believe that he is a messiah and that he represents the return of Jesus Christ, based on the interpretation of biblical texts.

Haile Selassie himself was a devout Ethiopian Orthodox Christian and did not endorse the Rastafari movement, but he was respected by many members of the movement for his role in promoting pan-Africanism and his opposition to colonialism.

The establishment of Shashamane as a settlement for Rastafarians was a significant event in the history of the movement. It allowed Rastafarians from around the world to settle in Ethiopia and connect with their African heritage. Today, the town is home to a community of Rastafarians who have built their own cultural institutions and practices, including the Nyabinghi drumming ceremonies and the celebration of Ethiopian culture and history.

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FAQs About Backpacking in Ethiopia

A few commonly asked questions about traveling to Ethiopia…

Is Ethiopia safe to travel?

In terms of criminal activity, in Addis and the main tourist destinations there is a small amount of pickpocketing, so be alert. However, from that perspective, Ethiopia is safer to visit than many other African countries.  Nonetheless, the political situation in the country can change drastically so it is very important to keep close attention to the political evolution. Also, at the moment, it is not advisable to travel to the Tigray region.

Where should I go backpacking in Ethiopia?

Even though the country is big enough to offer different routes, if constrained by time, I would advise to visit the Northern part of the country, as it is where you will most extensively immerse in Ethiopian culture and history.

What is considered rude in Ethiopia?

Men and women should dress conservatively and public displays of affection should be limited. Trying to learn a couple of words in Amharic will be highly appreciated by the people you talk with.

Is Ethiopia expensive? 

As it was previously mentioned, if you stick to the local way of life, money can go a long way in Ethiopia. However, if you visit places through organized tours and have time constraints that don’t allow you to travel by public transportation, Ethiopia will end up being expensive.

What is the highlight of backpacking in Ethiopia?

For me, the highlight of backpacking in Ethiopia is the feeling of traveling through a completely different world, not only because of the economic differences, but because of its unique and diverse culture.

Final Advice Before Visiting Ethiopia

Even though you may feel in a completely different world, please keep in mind that you are a human being surrounded by human beings. 

Try people nicely and you will receive kindness from their side. Please don’t treat them as servers just because they are willing to accept ridiculously low amounts of money to do things for you. Also, don’t be the kind of imbecile who thinks everything around them is just a part of the stage set to take his or her Instagram pictures.

If you want to take a picture of someone, ask for their permission and if it’s a child ask for the permission of an adult. Imagine what would happen if four Ethiopians went to a park in Europe and started to take pictures of four-year-old girls. 

Also, while in Ethiopia, you will find lots of beggars, many of them children. I think that it is good to help those in need, but in the case of children, I would advise to avoid giving them cash. You can buy them food, books, or materials for school, but children are commonly used to bringing some cash home, even if they have to miss school to do so.

This guest post was contributed by Nico Prada , a traveler who is passionate about exploring new cultures and ways of life. For him, the main goal of any trip is to understand what drives the people who inhabit the place he is visiting. Easier to find having a couple beers in the local market than posting IG stories from a fancy rooftop. 

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EXPERIENCING ETHIOPIA | Stefan James Vlog

Welcome to part 2 of my experiencing Ethiopia vlog adventures! If you haven’t yet watched my Ethiopia School Inauguration vlog, make sure you check it out. It was one of the most profound experiences of my life.

Experiencing Ethiopia took us out of our element and into the world of those who are less fortunate than ourselves, allowing us to open our minds and our hearts to new customs, cultures, and ways of life.

I have witnessed the transformative and healing power of travel, especially when it has involved visiting countries that have been far different from my own. This is supported by ample research that suggests that traveling is highly beneficial for your physical, mental and emotional health.

I am grateful that I am able to share my Ethiopia experience with you. In my eyes, moments like these is what makes life worth living – contributing and giving beyond yourself, with the goal of making a difference in the world. In the words of Ibn Battuta, “ Traveling . It leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” Are you ready to learn about my life-changing trip experiencing Ethiopia?

Watch the video below:

(Click here to watch on YouTube)

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After spending time in Dubai, Tatiana and I traveled to Addis Ababa, which is the capital of Ethiopia. Known as Africa’s political center, this city is a busy hub of economic, social and political activity. It has a rich cultural history, which is reflected in the myriad of churches, museums and mosques that are spread throughout the city.

From Addis Ababa, we jumped on a domestic flight to Mek'ele, which is the capital of the Tigray Region, and the largest city in northern Ethiopia. Today, Mek’ele is one of the main economic and educational centres in Ethiopia. While there, we stayed at a lodge in a remote location, amidst a beautiful backdrop of mountainous desert views.

While there, we got to experience an epic 3-hour trekking experience to the top of the Gheralta Mountain, where we visited a famous church called, Abuna Yemata. You could literally feel the history of the place as you walked through it. To add to that, the views at the top of the mountain were breathtaking. We also got to visit some markets in the villages, where we were able to interact with the locals and experience their daily way of life.

Experiencing Ethiopia filled my heart with gratitude . In the Western world we take so many things for granted. You don’t realize how fortunate you are to live the life that you live until you travel to places like Ethiopia, where people live with so little.

I hope I have inspired you to contribute more. Once you are able to shift from a mindset of scarcity to one of abundance , I promise that you will experience the highest form of fulfillment in life. Let’s make a difference together and help to create a better life for others.

Ethel Percy Andrus said it best – “ Human contribution is the essential ingredient. It is only in the giving of oneself to others that we truly life.” How can you make a difference in the world while traveling?

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